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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 02:08am PT
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lollygaging continues...
wet with more wet
ah, and now we get to it, the real crap... the holiest of holys...
Son of Dawn Wall - First pitch A1
Originally put up by Dave Crough and Christian Straight in 1978. A feat of engineering for the first part. Lots of drilling using small bolts...
Today most of the bolts on this thing are actually bomber. So this really does make a good training ladder, with couple exciting moves at the top too. See below.
The first free ascent of the first pitch done by our own Al Swanson. It checks in at 11b. Solid lead if you can do it, I can't, yet... and years of aid ascents have made it pretty clean, really.
So I rally, get the gear on, put some cams on screamers into a nearby pocket or two, connect that to a clove on a bolt with another screamer. Bomber? sh#t, I don't know, but I should have used the f*#king tree to tie off to. duh, dipshit move. learning solo sh#t as I go here, bear with please.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 02:11am PT
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Get in the groove...
pull up on my speed daisies, and viola I'm up...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 02:13am PT
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fix the dogged draw, adjust my nutz, and I'm up even further.
I mean really, how exciting can an A1 bolt ladder be. Don't say I didn't warn you earlier.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 02:17am PT
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last, the bolt ladder doesn't quite reach the anchor. it's wet, remember, so I bust out a hook or two...
mostly it's just for fun, cuz I could have reached it with one hook. meh
JEEEBUS, what the f*#k kind of rebolt job is this?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 02:22am PT
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I rap and clean on the way down. Fun since the route is not a clean fall line. I use a jug to pull myself in on my lead line which is anchored below. clip the lower piece, release the upper with ease, then cut the lower one loose, and I swing into the branches with the rope snagging above me very little on rough edges. WHEEE!! Good times.
I scope out a possible new free line off to the right after I'm down and have cracked my Sapporo Gold. Cruise over to the bouldering overhang since it's actually starting to look like rain now.
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Karl Aguilar
climber
san francisco, ca
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Jan 30, 2008 - 02:24am PT
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Nice job and nice pics. However, I’d be careful hooking on recently wet Pinnacles rock. You’re likely to break off holds that wouldn’t otherwise break.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 02:24am PT
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Call it day and drive out. Only to be greeted by this.
Not a bad day, I'd say.
El Fin
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 02:25am PT
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oh sh#t, almost forgot to ask about this...
What in holy hell is this thing?
It's radar dish, tho my pic you can't see the dish part.
But why?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 02:33am PT
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more pinns pics...
lush and
green...
don't these just look awesome!!??
blue sky, I mean f*#k
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 02:58am PT
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"However, I’d be careful hooking on recently wet Pinnacles rock. You’re likely to break off holds that wouldn’t otherwise break."
Werd, no worries, I only hook on the ones the free climbers use anyways.
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salad
climber
San Diego
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Jan 30, 2008 - 04:24am PT
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munge for f%ck sake, quit post our pics in your sph server or something. my work blocks em from where ever you posting them.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 30, 2008 - 04:59am PT
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Robert,
Fun report. Congrats on getting out and doing some aid. Cool waterfalls, too.
> JEEEBUS, what the f*#k kind of rebolt job is this?
My kind. :-)
Actually there are 2 anchors for that pitch. If you are continuing onwards, you can link in the next pitch, or belay more comfortably at the 2 big bolts at the start of the headwall, 6' above those rusty chains on the slab.
If you are heading down, those chains are plenty good enough, and you can skip the move to the big bolts. So I didn't put chain in the big bolts.
Did you like how I only replaced even numbered bolts, and left the odd original 1/4" ones in between for aiding? I figured it would lend some thrill to aiding the bolt ladder but still provide solid pro bolts for aiding and freeing.
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O.D.
Trad climber
LA LA Land
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Jan 30, 2008 - 09:13am PT
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Nice TR Munge! I've driven past the entrance to Pinnacles a few times while traveling on Hwy 25 and wondered if there was any climbing potential there. Thanks for the info.
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scuffy b
climber
Stump with a backrest
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Jan 30, 2008 - 11:02am PT
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Great report, Munge. I missed out on the dribbling last night,
but even reading the whole thread straight through, I have to
compliment you on your sense of timing.
Beautiful shots, amusing narrative.
Soledad means solitude
Cheerio
sm
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jan 30, 2008 - 11:34am PT
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Good times! I kinda like the staggered-style TR.
I knew that tune "sunlight falling on my steel"...no google.
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Jan 30, 2008 - 11:39am PT
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Fun read Munge- I gotta get out there.
Soledad means solitude
From what my Spanish speakers say it transaltes more to lonesome or lonely- with a somewhat negitive connotaiton. It can also be used as a name.
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johnboy
Trad climber
Can't get here from there
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Jan 30, 2008 - 12:27pm PT
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Thanks for the TR and pics, nice looking country.
What the heck kind of a tie job is that on your talon?
Tie a loop, feed the loop thru leaving the knot on the outside.
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Jan 30, 2008 - 12:40pm PT
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Nice report Munge!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 01:00pm PT
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don't mess with my drama laced images of poor anchors and the new age redefining of spanish terms for effect.... sol y dad
heh
:)
good to just get out.
oh, Clint, just to be clear, very solid job on the rebolting. I say that with sincerity. It's perfect for a budding aid climber to get some spice, yet still be safe... and go to the second anchor if it's not looking like rain. :)
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