Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 54 of total 54 in this topic |
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 30, 2008 - 01:10am PT
|
It was dry, well the air and most rock was dry, but the waterstreaks. All wet. But the plus is you get this...
|
|
Anastasia
Trad climber
Califlower
|
|
|
Jan 30, 2008 - 01:12am PT
|
Ahh... Nice!
Give it to us dear, we so need you.
AF
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 01:20am PT
|
loading a few more pics...
stand by please...
[cue elevator music]
|
|
Mimi
climber
|
|
|
Jan 30, 2008 - 01:21am PT
|
More sunny rock shots! PLEASE!
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 01:26am PT
|
It all starts back in 71, a good year. My year.
Year of the pig.
Skip to 2008, year of the pig, er diet challenge. Taking the day off work. Rain is maddening. Work is beyond ridiculous. Very little climbing has been in 2008. Time for a change.
So I eventually, after 2 Sam Adam's Light, 1 Black Butte Porter, and reviewing many weather forecasts to determine what would be dry I settle on Pinnacles. It's a favorite area for me. Even if it rains, like it's supposed to, I can still hike to the High Peaks and get a work out.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 01:35am PT
|
Rain I expected, but I noted that out the passenger window, there is snow on the coastals. WTF?
It's all good. No drops so far. 50% chance of precip I can work with. Forecasts are almost always wrong for pinns. Except that one time with a cat, some old E, and a prehistoric bird. Another story for a different forum.
Before you can get to the West Side (East Side Pinns is a sport ridden, heathen infested cesspool, of imitators; least that's what I tell myself to get me to try new areas out) you have to go thru Soledad.
Soledad, derived from Sol, or Sun, "e" or prouncounced in Spanish as "y" with the suffix 'dad' as "ny"...
Soledad = Sunny
sure, right, fricking marketing department for Soledad really needs to work on it.
so i think they have, note this sign "Feel the Momentum"
and this one...
|
|
Anastasia
Trad climber
My Mama!
|
|
|
Jan 30, 2008 - 01:37am PT
|
BUMP!
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 01:37am PT
|
intermission for sunny rock shot...
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 01:41am PT
|
New stuff at Pinns, signs signs everywhere the signs...
some like this, where I think it's a self evaluation type sign. It asks the question and you decide. Today, I'm thinking it's safe...
yup, no fire danger, but we're at flood stage cap'n!
NOT A F*#KING SOUL IN THAT LOT.
and I showed up late too. Are we sure this is a national mon?
oh, wait, then there is thing...
for the love of all that is chossy, why?
|
|
Mimi
climber
|
|
|
Jan 30, 2008 - 01:42am PT
|
Munge, I never knew you were such a tease!
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 01:44am PT
|
it gets worse, don't worry
the climax of this thread, well, won't.
hahaha
|
|
Anastasia
Trad climber
My Mama!
|
|
|
Jan 30, 2008 - 01:45am PT
|
Ooh...
He IS GOOD!
AF
|
|
Mimi
climber
|
|
|
Jan 30, 2008 - 01:49am PT
|
It does look a wee bit chossy. But hey, it's Soledad!
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 01:51am PT
|
so first things first, finish my coffee, pack the pack, dump in some of the cleanest bathrooms ever. and reconnoiter the closures...
good Machete is open, tallest formation in the mon. Not that I go to the top mind you. It is supposed to rain today, right?
On the way in, sunny, hrm? "What's that I see? A glint of metal, steel hanger? from here? hrm, forgot to bring paint, have to hit it next time.
"sunlight falling on your steel, death in life is your ideal, life is like a wheel and it's rolling steel [stil?]..." free carabiner to the first person that guesses who sings that song...
|
|
Mimi
climber
|
|
|
Jan 30, 2008 - 01:53am PT
|
That's a really bad song.
|
|
Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Jan 30, 2008 - 01:54am PT
|
Iron Maiden. (Mr. Google helped.)
Not to be impertinent, but when do we get, you know, the munge report?
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 01:57am PT
|
My objective is The Dawn Wall, well, at least its poor "son." And only it's first pitch at that. You see, I'm running solo today. The only person I saw was a gov't employee that checks the bathrooms. Unfortunate that he checked after I went. And we had such a good morning chat. Hope he doesn't see me this weekend. doh!
This route checks in a heart wrenching A1. You see why I had to stop at the bathrooms first, right? This sh#t is skarrrreeee!
Take pics, lollygag a bit, note a newly fallen try by Destiny. 'Brad's' book, just out in print, and already out of date.
Things are dripping, maybe I'm out of luck...
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 01:58am PT
|
We interrupt this post to bring you a special news bulletin.
Today, outside of Soledad, munge was climbing. It was chossy, with occasional moss and flurries of mud.
Film at eleven.
|
|
caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
|
|
|
Jan 30, 2008 - 02:01am PT
|
11 is my bedtime. I'll read it tomorrow, mang!
|
|
Mimi
climber
|
|
|
Jan 30, 2008 - 02:07am PT
|
zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz!!!!!!!!!!!!!11
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 02:08am PT
|
lollygaging continues...
wet with more wet
ah, and now we get to it, the real crap... the holiest of holys...
Son of Dawn Wall - First pitch A1
Originally put up by Dave Crough and Christian Straight in 1978. A feat of engineering for the first part. Lots of drilling using small bolts...
Today most of the bolts on this thing are actually bomber. So this really does make a good training ladder, with couple exciting moves at the top too. See below.
The first free ascent of the first pitch done by our own Al Swanson. It checks in at 11b. Solid lead if you can do it, I can't, yet... and years of aid ascents have made it pretty clean, really.
So I rally, get the gear on, put some cams on screamers into a nearby pocket or two, connect that to a clove on a bolt with another screamer. Bomber? sh#t, I don't know, but I should have used the f*#king tree to tie off to. duh, dipshit move. learning solo sh#t as I go here, bear with please.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 02:11am PT
|
Get in the groove...
pull up on my speed daisies, and viola I'm up...
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 02:13am PT
|
fix the dogged draw, adjust my nutz, and I'm up even further.
I mean really, how exciting can an A1 bolt ladder be. Don't say I didn't warn you earlier.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 02:17am PT
|
last, the bolt ladder doesn't quite reach the anchor. it's wet, remember, so I bust out a hook or two...
mostly it's just for fun, cuz I could have reached it with one hook. meh
JEEEBUS, what the f*#k kind of rebolt job is this?
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 02:22am PT
|
I rap and clean on the way down. Fun since the route is not a clean fall line. I use a jug to pull myself in on my lead line which is anchored below. clip the lower piece, release the upper with ease, then cut the lower one loose, and I swing into the branches with the rope snagging above me very little on rough edges. WHEEE!! Good times.
I scope out a possible new free line off to the right after I'm down and have cracked my Sapporo Gold. Cruise over to the bouldering overhang since it's actually starting to look like rain now.
|
|
Karl Aguilar
climber
san francisco, ca
|
|
|
Jan 30, 2008 - 02:24am PT
|
Nice job and nice pics. However, I’d be careful hooking on recently wet Pinnacles rock. You’re likely to break off holds that wouldn’t otherwise break.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 02:24am PT
|
Call it day and drive out. Only to be greeted by this.
Not a bad day, I'd say.
El Fin
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 02:25am PT
|
oh sh#t, almost forgot to ask about this...
What in holy hell is this thing?
It's radar dish, tho my pic you can't see the dish part.
But why?
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 02:33am PT
|
more pinns pics...
lush and
green...
don't these just look awesome!!??
blue sky, I mean f*#k
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 02:58am PT
|
"However, I’d be careful hooking on recently wet Pinnacles rock. You’re likely to break off holds that wouldn’t otherwise break."
Werd, no worries, I only hook on the ones the free climbers use anyways.
|
|
salad
climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Jan 30, 2008 - 04:24am PT
|
munge for f%ck sake, quit post our pics in your sph server or something. my work blocks em from where ever you posting them.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Jan 30, 2008 - 04:59am PT
|
Robert,
Fun report. Congrats on getting out and doing some aid. Cool waterfalls, too.
> JEEEBUS, what the f*#k kind of rebolt job is this?
My kind. :-)
Actually there are 2 anchors for that pitch. If you are continuing onwards, you can link in the next pitch, or belay more comfortably at the 2 big bolts at the start of the headwall, 6' above those rusty chains on the slab.
If you are heading down, those chains are plenty good enough, and you can skip the move to the big bolts. So I didn't put chain in the big bolts.
Did you like how I only replaced even numbered bolts, and left the odd original 1/4" ones in between for aiding? I figured it would lend some thrill to aiding the bolt ladder but still provide solid pro bolts for aiding and freeing.
|
|
O.D.
Trad climber
LA LA Land
|
|
|
Jan 30, 2008 - 09:13am PT
|
Nice TR Munge! I've driven past the entrance to Pinnacles a few times while traveling on Hwy 25 and wondered if there was any climbing potential there. Thanks for the info.
|
|
scuffy b
climber
Stump with a backrest
|
|
|
Jan 30, 2008 - 11:02am PT
|
Great report, Munge. I missed out on the dribbling last night,
but even reading the whole thread straight through, I have to
compliment you on your sense of timing.
Beautiful shots, amusing narrative.
Soledad means solitude
Cheerio
sm
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Jan 30, 2008 - 11:34am PT
|
Good times! I kinda like the staggered-style TR.
I knew that tune "sunlight falling on my steel"...no google.
|
|
mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
|
|
|
Jan 30, 2008 - 11:39am PT
|
Fun read Munge- I gotta get out there.
Soledad means solitude
From what my Spanish speakers say it transaltes more to lonesome or lonely- with a somewhat negitive connotaiton. It can also be used as a name.
|
|
johnboy
Trad climber
Can't get here from there
|
|
|
Jan 30, 2008 - 12:27pm PT
|
Thanks for the TR and pics, nice looking country.
What the heck kind of a tie job is that on your talon?
Tie a loop, feed the loop thru leaving the knot on the outside.
|
|
spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
|
|
|
Jan 30, 2008 - 12:40pm PT
|
Nice report Munge!
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 01:00pm PT
|
don't mess with my drama laced images of poor anchors and the new age redefining of spanish terms for effect.... sol y dad
heh
:)
good to just get out.
oh, Clint, just to be clear, very solid job on the rebolting. I say that with sincerity. It's perfect for a budding aid climber to get some spice, yet still be safe... and go to the second anchor if it's not looking like rain. :)
|
|
Majid_S
Mountain climber
Bay Area
|
|
|
Jan 30, 2008 - 01:07pm PT
|
That little trailer behind the truck is an emergency Net Dish to get access to network in major fire or an emergency. Most big gov agencies have them like state OES or CDF, USFIRE etc.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 03:38pm PT
|
thx Majid, good to know.
very odd to see that.
i suppose they were testing connectivity in various locations.
|
|
Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Jan 30, 2008 - 06:27pm PT
|
Very nice - and I'm glad to see there was some munge involved, too. Not munge by Squamish standards, maybe, but not bad.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 07:01pm PT
|
I recommend the Carpet Cleaner 5.1 or 5.2 walk thru a corridor where you climb exposed solid knobs in a sea of watery moss.
high quality munge
|
|
Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Jan 30, 2008 - 10:20pm PT
|
Nice TR Munge,
Look at the Balconey pic. Wish I was there.
Zander
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2008 - 01:53am PT
|
Like Spyork said in another thread, unfortunately the Balconies are closed now, but there's other stuff I'm going to futz around on this weekend. Maybe a continuation report...
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2008 - 03:47am PT
|
OD, thx man. It's a worthy place.
johnboy, is there a net benefit to the way you mention? or just style? I don't see a benefit.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2008 - 11:58pm PT
|
Mike.
yeah, I've not had it before. New Wall beer for sure. tasty. fricking foster's tards.
today...
|
|
Crimpergirl
Social climber
St. Looney
|
|
|
Feb 10, 2008 - 02:13pm PT
|
Bump
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2009 - 09:39pm PT
|
I missed this bump. Solid.
|
|
salad
climber
Escondido
|
|
|
Mar 19, 2009 - 10:12pm PT
|
super rad!
|
|
tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
|
|
|
Mar 19, 2009 - 10:21pm PT
|
Nice,
You should try some of the old aid routes on Machete Ridge. I recall coming up a bit shy of bolts on a section of aid, and as I had no hook I took the 4mm perlon off my chock bag and was able to get it to stay on a flake sufficiently to get past that bit of aid.
|
|
Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2009 - 12:16am PT
|
I've always loved this TR. Rides gently in the memory.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2009 - 02:58am PT
|
oh sh#t, i just deleted some of the images for space on my flickr not realizing this got bumped recent like.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 54 of total 54 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!