Best routes at Joshua Tree?

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Stanley Hassinger

climber

Eastern US

Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2008 - 02:43pm PT

I'm getting really excited about JTree.

scuffy b

climber

Stump with a backrest

Jan 31, 2008 - 02:50pm PT

5.8 plus?

Ksolem

Trad climber

Monrovia, Ca

Jan 31, 2008 - 03:26pm PT

Roy - I love those topo's. That stuff is great!

(I wasn't trying to call you out on that rating thing, just havin' silly fun..)

We always used to have a joke about Josh grades, and how they really work this way: .10a, .10b, .10c, .9+, .11a, .11b, .11c, 5.10d, .11d, and so on.

scuffy b

climber

Stump with a backrest

Jan 31, 2008 - 04:28pm PT

I always thought calling WaterChute 5.9 was...different

I guess it falls into the "rating starts 15 feet off the ground"
category.

Elcapinyoazz

Social climber

Joshua Tree

Jan 31, 2008 - 04:53pm PT

Kris, my experience of Josh ratings goes something like this:

5.8, 5.7, 5.7+, 5.9, 5.8+, 5.10b, 5.10a, 5.11a, 5.10d, 5.10c, 5.11c, 5.11b, 5.12a, 5.11d.

And to match up routes to that sequence:

Sail Away, Smooth as Silk, Double Cross, Working Overtime, Continuum, Effigy Too, I can't believe it's a Girdle, Swept Away, Imaginary Voyage, OKellys or Clean and Jerk, Wangerbanger, Digital Watch or Pat Adams, Beaver, Scary Monsters or 29 Palms.

Largo

Sport climber

Venice, Ca

Jan 31, 2008 - 07:14pm PT

29 Palms is not 11d if you have fat fingers, and More Monkey is not 11b if you have fat hands. Both routes are bleak for big folk, though something like Morongo Man is easier than if one had thin mitts.

So far as great routes at Josh, I think the Beaver is hard to top. Likewise, Imaginary Voyage and Bird of Fire and both O'Kelly cracks. And 10,000 more routes besides . . .

JL

Cassidy

Trad climber

Nova Scotia

Jan 31, 2008 - 07:48pm PT

Sail Away 5.8
Illusion Dweller ~5.10a/b

k-man

Gym climber

SCruz

Jan 31, 2008 - 07:53pm PT

Hobbit Hole OW in a stone-drunk frenzy, by moonlight.

BHMG, pure JTree.

Surface Tension -- yike!

Chongo's Traverse (one on the list...)

For new age, check out The Way of Life.

Also pure Josh, Freak Brothers domes, I Can't Believe It's A Girddle.

PS. I don't see folks doing Deliverance anymore...that used to be so popular.

Watusi

Social climber

Newport, OR

Jan 31, 2008 - 10:19pm PT

Largo has it pretty dialed there with his tick...I always loved The Baby Apes myself... It might have something to do with the drop knee move I used at the crux...Although BVB has got the patent on that one...