Yosemite 11.b,c,d or 12a


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Trad climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 28, 2008 - 06:09pm PT
Folks please bear with me, as this is only my second or third day on this site. This thread may have already been posted a number of times however I was so enthralled by the 10d and 11a posting (love the pics!) I was just hoping to read others view on the next grade or two. Once again, I apologize if this is some repeat. Here is my list

by hook or by crook
leaning meany
kaukulator (that ow up top is harder than the crux!)
3rd pitch astroman
pinky paralysis


Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Jan 28, 2008 - 06:19pm PT
Black Primo and the 1st ten pitches of Mother Earth are differnt kinds of 11+/12a climbing.


The Eye of the Snail
Jan 28, 2008 - 06:21pm PT
The pitch below the Narrows is rated all those grades you mention, plus 5.8.
KP Ariza

Jan 28, 2008 - 06:22pm PT
Ya JL's right, you need a big belly, big balls and sticky rubber.

Mad World 511.c Calaveras Dome, does that count? (belly, balls/rubber)
Digital Delight 5.12a Yosemite Valley
Soul Sacrifice 5.11c Yosemite Valley
Hermit Domes Crack (Golden Child)Tuolemne 5.12a
Pitch one of Blind Faith 5.11d Yosemite Valley
Speed of Life 5.11b Tuolemne
Blues Riff 5.11c Tuolemne
Follywood 5.12c Yosemite Valley (beware of falling butresses)

....just a few that came to mind

Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
Jan 28, 2008 - 06:24pm PT
11b: Goldrush, Kaukulator
11c: Blind Faith, Butterballs, Sky (never tried it)
11d: Separate Reality (never tried it, but hey...),
12a: A Dogs Roof, Bad Ass Momma, Killer Pillar something

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2008 - 06:31pm PT
oh wow, I forgot about goldrush. vern clevenger taught me how to do that one with a thumb taped and extended out as my hands were way too small. He seemed to have enormous mits and it was always so easy for him.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
Jan 28, 2008 - 06:36pm PT
Marty Marty Marty.... tape is aid.... aiders on a roll..... unless you are a dentist or hand model, it should be shunned ;)

Re: goldrush.... nice and rough in the crack, and just over fist size... might be 5" for a about 3 feet. Great problem. Always thought the top was harder than the wide stuff. Of course I have a giant fist, so that eases the initial grimness.

Social climber
The West
Jan 28, 2008 - 06:40pm PT
I've done all but two on Mr Walling's List (dog's roof & Killer pillar), My thoughts

Goldrush is deperate for those with small hands. Way harder than Kaukulator, though it,(K-lator) has two definitely tricky parts of it's own.

Blind Faith (first pitch) harder than Butterballs harder than Sky which is totally different climbing. -I had Fire™s for BF but first climbed the other two (I've only climbed sky, once) in EB's, and I still felt it to be distinctly harder (I followed it clean, by the skin of my teeth)

Bad Ass Moma was easier for me (after I finally got it) than Seperate reality. B.A.M. was always repeatable But S.R., even though I onsighted it, I have fallen on numerous times subsequently.

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Jan 28, 2008 - 06:48pm PT
Energy Crisis! .11d?

Sweet 1 1/8" to 1 1/4" splitter. Not a single really hard move on it, but they add up quickly. After 75' or so of rings, rattly fingers, thin hands, rings, and more rings you have to bust a traverse move or two. The 18yr old I followed on it came about one move from onsighting. If this thing was at the Cookie or other roadside crags, it would have lines at the base every day. Plus, you've got Cream and Jam Session right next to it.

Roadside Attraction. .12a?

Can't beat the approach. Wicked leg pump in the stemming down low, a funky bouldery crux out of the corner into slightly overhanging ring locks for a body length.

YSL styling it...

A better view of the line

Social climber
Jan 28, 2008 - 06:50pm PT
What's that badass bolted slab by Camp 4? Best route ever! :)

It's totally iUber!
KP Ariza

Jan 28, 2008 - 06:57pm PT
Energy Crisis kick's ass, rattlers and thin hands w/ sinker hand pods to gear off of every 15 feet or so, its kind of a sleeper due to its location but it certainly delivers. Torque Converter 5.11.d and Goldfinger 5.12a at Arch are a couple of contenders-

Jan 28, 2008 - 07:30pm PT

You can't revel this stuff, these are the hidden jems not to be seen by the masses and mere morals until they have tasted the bitter fruits of eating roots and tubers and wallowing in the sacred dirt for many years.

And Toyota's and Subaru's need not apply.

Only vehicles held together with duct tape and bailing wire can go there.

Are you out of your minds?

Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
Jan 28, 2008 - 07:59pm PT
What's that one right under Serenity Crack? Mid 11, one pitch. I thought that one was kind of fun.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 28, 2008 - 08:45pm PT
A couple of shots of Black Primo for my friend with the guns!


Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Jan 28, 2008 - 08:55pm PT
Classic routes at obscure (and not so obscure) crags in this difficulty range = mini-traxion hootenany.

There are even a couple of choice fixed aiders fer when the cracks don't start right at the ground...'cause it would be a pain to ascend the fixed line w/o the fixed aider, I guess.
scuffy b

Stump with a backrest
Jan 29, 2008 - 11:02am PT
Dwindling Energy?

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2008 - 01:43pm PT
Wbraun. I disagree. this is not our playground because we happened to be lucky enough to be young when it was virgin. This is the worlds playground. We should encourage the youth to discover the pleasure and joy we were so fortunate to have had. As stewards, we should be proud when a new teenager driving up in his toyota flashes every old hard mans climb in the valley, then climbs things that we could have never imagined. Thats progess, thats the beauty of the sport.

Trad climber
Rock Ridge/ Oakland CA
Jan 29, 2008 - 02:09pm PT
Hey thanks for breaking the crust off of things. So what else should we know about..

right here, right now
Jan 29, 2008 - 02:25pm PT
Beggar's Buttress,
You drive almost right under it, in any ride of your choosing.

On the same rock, (Lower Cathedral)
Never did that thing Doninni freed, Overhang Overpass?

The back seat of my 69 Nark Avenger
Jan 29, 2008 - 02:28pm PT
Follywood has had a second ascent?????????

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