Discussion Topic |
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martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 28, 2008 - 06:09pm PT
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Folks please bear with me, as this is only my second or third day on this site. This thread may have already been posted a number of times however I was so enthralled by the 10d and 11a posting (love the pics!) I was just hoping to read others view on the next grade or two. Once again, I apologize if this is some repeat. Here is my list
by hook or by crook
leaning meany
kaukulator (that ow up top is harder than the crux!)
3rd pitch astroman
butterballs
pinky paralysis
cringe
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jan 28, 2008 - 06:19pm PT
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Black Primo and the 1st ten pitches of Mother Earth are differnt kinds of 11+/12a climbing.
JL
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yo
climber
The Eye of the Snail
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Jan 28, 2008 - 06:21pm PT
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The pitch below the Narrows is rated all those grades you mention, plus 5.8.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Jan 28, 2008 - 06:22pm PT
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Ya JL's right, you need a big belly, big balls and sticky rubber.
Mad World 511.c Calaveras Dome, does that count? (belly, balls/rubber)
Digital Delight 5.12a Yosemite Valley
Soul Sacrifice 5.11c Yosemite Valley
Hermit Domes Crack (Golden Child)Tuolemne 5.12a
Pitch one of Blind Faith 5.11d Yosemite Valley
Speed of Life 5.11b Tuolemne
Blues Riff 5.11c Tuolemne
Follywood 5.12c Yosemite Valley (beware of falling butresses)
....just a few that came to mind
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Jan 28, 2008 - 06:24pm PT
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11b: Goldrush, Kaukulator
11c: Blind Faith, Butterballs, Sky (never tried it)
11d: Separate Reality (never tried it, but hey...),
12a: A Dogs Roof, Bad Ass Momma, Killer Pillar something
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martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2008 - 06:31pm PT
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oh wow, I forgot about goldrush. vern clevenger taught me how to do that one with a thumb taped and extended out as my hands were way too small. He seemed to have enormous mits and it was always so easy for him.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Jan 28, 2008 - 06:36pm PT
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Marty Marty Marty.... tape is aid.... aiders on a roll..... unless you are a dentist or hand model, it should be shunned ;)
Re: goldrush.... nice and rough in the crack, and just over fist size... might be 5" for a about 3 feet. Great problem. Always thought the top was harder than the wide stuff. Of course I have a giant fist, so that eases the initial grimness.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 28, 2008 - 06:40pm PT
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I've done all but two on Mr Walling's List (dog's roof & Killer pillar), My thoughts
Goldrush is deperate for those with small hands. Way harder than Kaukulator, though it,(K-lator) has two definitely tricky parts of it's own.
Blind Faith (first pitch) harder than Butterballs harder than Sky which is totally different climbing. -I had Fire™s for BF but first climbed the other two (I've only climbed sky, once) in EB's, and I still felt it to be distinctly harder (I followed it clean, by the skin of my teeth)
Bad Ass Moma was easier for me (after I finally got it) than Seperate reality. B.A.M. was always repeatable But S.R., even though I onsighted it, I have fallen on numerous times subsequently.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jan 28, 2008 - 06:48pm PT
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Energy Crisis! .11d?
Sweet 1 1/8" to 1 1/4" splitter. Not a single really hard move on it, but they add up quickly. After 75' or so of rings, rattly fingers, thin hands, rings, and more rings you have to bust a traverse move or two. The 18yr old I followed on it came about one move from onsighting. If this thing was at the Cookie or other roadside crags, it would have lines at the base every day. Plus, you've got Cream and Jam Session right next to it.
Roadside Attraction. .12a?
Can't beat the approach. Wicked leg pump in the stemming down low, a funky bouldery crux out of the corner into slightly overhanging ring locks for a body length.
YSL styling it...
A better view of the line
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Climbswithtits
Social climber
Fresno
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Jan 28, 2008 - 06:50pm PT
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What's that badass bolted slab by Camp 4? Best route ever! :)
It's totally iUber!
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Jan 28, 2008 - 06:57pm PT
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Energy Crisis kick's ass, rattlers and thin hands w/ sinker hand pods to gear off of every 15 feet or so, its kind of a sleeper due to its location but it certainly delivers. Torque Converter 5.11.d and Goldfinger 5.12a at Arch are a couple of contenders-
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 28, 2008 - 07:30pm PT
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Hey
You can't revel this stuff, these are the hidden jems not to be seen by the masses and mere morals until they have tasted the bitter fruits of eating roots and tubers and wallowing in the sacred dirt for many years.
And Toyota's and Subaru's need not apply.
Only vehicles held together with duct tape and bailing wire can go there.
Are you out of your minds?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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Jan 28, 2008 - 07:59pm PT
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What's that one right under Serenity Crack? Mid 11, one pitch. I thought that one was kind of fun.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 28, 2008 - 08:45pm PT
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A couple of shots of Black Primo for my friend with the guns!
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Jan 28, 2008 - 08:55pm PT
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Classic routes at obscure (and not so obscure) crags in this difficulty range = mini-traxion hootenany.
There are even a couple of choice fixed aiders fer when the cracks don't start right at the ground...'cause it would be a pain to ascend the fixed line w/o the fixed aider, I guess.
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scuffy b
climber
Stump with a backrest
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Jan 29, 2008 - 11:02am PT
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Dwindling Energy?
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martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2008 - 01:43pm PT
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Wbraun. I disagree. this is not our playground because we happened to be lucky enough to be young when it was virgin. This is the worlds playground. We should encourage the youth to discover the pleasure and joy we were so fortunate to have had. As stewards, we should be proud when a new teenager driving up in his toyota flashes every old hard mans climb in the valley, then climbs things that we could have never imagined. Thats progess, thats the beauty of the sport.
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clustiere
Trad climber
Rock Ridge/ Oakland CA
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Jan 29, 2008 - 02:09pm PT
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Hey thanks for breaking the crust off of things. So what else should we know about..
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 29, 2008 - 02:25pm PT
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Beggar's Buttress,
You drive almost right under it, in any ride of your choosing.
On the same rock, (Lower Cathedral)
Never did that thing Doninni freed, Overhang Overpass?
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mark
climber
san diego, ca
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Jan 29, 2008 - 03:37pm PT
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Tarbuster, Donnini's route is REAL good and REAL hard, to get to and off as well. Worth the effort, for damn sure.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 29, 2008 - 07:22pm PT
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Nice pic of the Killer B on Follywood there Walleye!
From the ground, that thing looks stout.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 29, 2008 - 07:39pm PT
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Here's some grade A filler shorter stuff that hasn't been mentioned:
Enema Crack
Anticipation
Hardd
La Escuela
Crack A Go Go
And for longish stuff:
Demon's Delight
Moratorium
Windfall
Freestone
Hotline
Mary's Tears/Crucifix
Powerpoint
Some obscure tour clean up I've yet to sample:
Gait of Power
Rock Bottom
Dynamo Hum
Atomic Finger Crack
The Warbler
And last...
Moongerms (shuh-yah... hang on tight!)
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Jan 29, 2008 - 07:42pm PT
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Walleye, Follywood may have had a second but it wasn't by me. I did, however, go up their w/ Bengston and I think Marky (pictured above) shortly after Dave's first and tried it on a top rope with him. I did well on it but fell up high. In any case it deserves attention because the rock quality is killer and its burly for the grade. Don't you live in the Valley still? You oughta ask Dave about its history I am curious myself.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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Jan 29, 2008 - 07:44pm PT
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The one I was trying to think of earlier is called adrenalin, and it has a variation called endorphin.
I did both. As I recall the variation is harder and more direct. The pro is dicey? Anyone done these?
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Jan 29, 2008 - 07:51pm PT
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Good to from you, Walleye. Maybe I'll see you guys in the Spring.
Too bad that area is a bowling area now, because there are some plums over there.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 29, 2008 - 08:08pm PT
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Almost forgot Mother Earth, another dandy on my wish list.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2008 - 10:00pm PT
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ah so Werner was yanking my chain. He sent me a nice email as such. I am a forum rookie.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 30, 2008 - 01:55pm PT
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Werner sometimes gets crabby, a lil' cranky even.
Don't pay the ole grey hair no mind when he turns sour!
All grades aside, here's a list of standard Valley Classics to work through, when you get some "free" time:
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mark
climber
san diego, ca
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Jan 30, 2008 - 02:13pm PT
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Overhang Overpass. Has anyone ever done the (another) Donnini classic? And if so who would feel it to be 5.11C? and the first short entry pitch at 5.9?
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jan 30, 2008 - 02:26pm PT
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Roy,
Generator Crack at 5.9, but Chingando at 5.10??!
Musta been a good day on the hersh or maui wowi.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 02:29pm PT
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I have but a long time ago. Do you think it was a bit easier than 11c? I am guessing it must be as when I climbed it 11c was near the top of my scale and I don't remember any epic moments.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 30, 2008 - 02:32pm PT
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What, Generator is more like 10C right?
That's a typo; or a write-o.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 02:34pm PT
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how about steppin out folks. Only 10d but boy did I have a scare on that one. My partner Stu Polack led the thing and we had one giant cam that he had made in his garage. He walked the thing all the way up however near the top the crack became too big. he started for the top maybe 20 up and all of a sudden the giant cam slip all the way down, maybe 60 feet. He at that point was fs the route and he looked real sketchy. God I was scared. I just kept yelling up to him to crank it. He did, but frankly barely. I was a bit of an as#@&%e and after following said "that wasn't too bad, you sure it's 10d?"
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scuffy b
climber
Stump with a backrest
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Jan 30, 2008 - 02:50pm PT
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Kris, I was on Adrenaline a long time ago, 81.
I had a pretty tough time, spent a lot of time almost falling
and pulling myself back in, fell twice. I'm not sure whether I
fell onto one piece or two. I only went as far as the bolt.
My recollection is that the pro is generally good enough. I don't
know anything about Endorphin.
sm
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mark
climber
san diego, ca
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Jan 30, 2008 - 03:27pm PT
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martygarrison
To jog your memory, Donnini's dihedral "Overhanging Overpass" is definately no epic, just clean crack climbing on a stellar block. It is hand size dependant though, so could be hand jams or thin hands and rat-ley ring locks, short but sustainly overhanging.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 03:31pm PT
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Mark I remember the climb but I just don't remember it at 11c. Maybe I was having a stellar day, but way back when 11c would have been dang hard for me. I just don't remember it being that hard.
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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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Jan 30, 2008 - 03:34pm PT
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Russ,
Dog's roof at 12a? Your digits must be the size of my forearms.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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Jan 30, 2008 - 03:36pm PT
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Scuffy, you were there before I was. And before Endorphine as well. I just remember thinking that was a nice bit of rock there.
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mark
climber
san diego, ca
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Jan 30, 2008 - 03:45pm PT
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Marty,
What do you recall it feeling more like? But, if I was to compare it to climbs like any pitch on the Rostrum, Chouniard/Herbert (Except Afro Cuban flakes), Enduro Corner or Boulder pitch or another Donini classic like Enema (Overhang Overpass feels harder than 1 letter grade more than Enema) I would have to say that it was stout, but again hand size does matter sometimes and it is all subjective, only numbers and letters.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 04:01pm PT
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Honestly Mark I have done all those routes except freeing ch. The corner on Aman has always been 11c for me, enema not so bad. I even just double checked to make sure I was talking about the same route. We are. I actually hawked this route for years as it was such a beautiful looking corner. I don't think I can rate it with any accuracy other than to say it was an early 5.11 and I wasn't experienced enough to break 5.11 down. In those days for me 5.11 was either hard of Fing hard and who knows, maybe my very small hands helped. If it had been stout for me I would remember every move. I am going to contact with my old time partner to make sure that this is the route that my memory serves me.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 04:06pm PT
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wrong wrong wrong. I eat humble pie. Just got off the phone. I confused high pressure with the route. Geeze I am such a rookie here.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 30, 2008 - 04:19pm PT
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I used to mix up:
High Pressure, Overhang Overpass, & Overdrive.
Since Overdrive is the only one I actually went out and climbed, I think I got that one straight.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Jan 30, 2008 - 04:21pm PT
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Overdrive: 12 stars on a 5 star scale
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scuffy b
climber
Stump with a backrest
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Jan 30, 2008 - 04:22pm PT
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So you're saying High Pressure might not be so bad?
I always thought it was one of Bridwell's preemptively down-rated
climbs, so I mentally bumped the grade quite a bit, and have been
too timid to even look at it (except in topos, where it looks
great)
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martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 04:25pm PT
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go back two or so posts and that what it is to me. it is a great corner.
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mark
climber
san diego, ca
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Jan 30, 2008 - 04:30pm PT
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Curious, does anyone know of anyone doing Overhang Overpass? If you have not done it it is a super climb.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 30, 2008 - 04:38pm PT
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There was a pretty good post about Overhang Overpass a while back.
Might have been by Werner, about Dale doing it?
I searched it and can't locate it.
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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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Jan 31, 2008 - 02:27am PT
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Didn't Sybill Hectel and some guy go up there a few years ago? He fell, dove head first behind a flake, and died. Werner probably remembers better than me.
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B-Dog
Trad climber
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Mar 28, 2009 - 02:22am PT
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Stirring the Obscurity Pot...Bump
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Loomis
climber
*_*
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Mar 28, 2009 - 02:47am PT
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I remember a conversation between Bachar and Waugh ( Ozone prking lot ). The only ratings are 5.10c, 5.11b, 5.12a and 5.12c... Nothing else exsist.
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bob
climber
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Mar 28, 2009 - 09:07am PT
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James, I was the first person to show up after that guy (Chris Hampson) fell. He didn't dive behind a flake. He probably pulled one off and didn't have any gear so.......
Pretty damn sad really. I was soloing that day and he wasn't. Ugh. Not that you wouldn't know anything about that stuff.
Here's a link: www.southeasternoutdoors.com/outdoors/climbing/accident-chris-hampson.html
Bob J.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Mar 28, 2009 - 10:13am PT
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This thread reminds me about the seven stages of 5.11:
5.11a
5.10d
5.11b
Old 5.9
5.11c
5.12a
4.11d
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Mar 28, 2009 - 10:18am PT
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Doug, where does Higgins' 'old 5.10' fit? (Maybe Ament was part of that also.)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 28, 2009 - 11:32pm PT
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Bingo! I read the write up recently. Three bolt route as it turns out. I always thought it was an old school groundfall special! LOL
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alpinerockfiend
Trad climber
The American West
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Mar 29, 2009 - 05:08am PT
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Hook or Crook/Blues Riff=easy 5.11
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