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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Jul 30, 2009 - 03:16pm PT
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Atlas Shrugs it was. Needless to say leading at my climbing limit of 5.9 at that time, was a bit much for likely the second or third time I'd lead anything, and my first attempt at a multi pitch route.
The funny thing is, once I learned to appreciate the pinnacles, I was married with young children and only visited there a few more times before leaving the state. I need to dig up and scan a few of those pictures.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jul 30, 2009 - 03:17pm PT
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Ahh Atlas, Brad I am waiting for another obscure outing this fall buddy!
Mucci
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Jul 30, 2009 - 03:34pm PT
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"AN other..." Just one? Can't I have you for at least a few obscure outings?
Paul, I led Atlas and the route left of it, Big Sky early enough in my career that I didn't know they were unusually run out, or at all different than "normal." Looking back, they're both pretty committing routes.
Bluey, you might think again about Pinns. What Paul said about embracing the munge is good advice. The history of the place, combined with its beauty and the ethics of adventure... it's pretty fun climbing. There is some pretty good rock there which allows you to avoid really bad stuff. Its also a great place to introduce kids to climbing (yours is getting old enough now?) Besides, who wants to limit themselves to climbing on good rock only? That keeps things pretty limited.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 30, 2009 - 03:36pm PT
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"embracing the munge is good advice"
yes, but Bluey isn't my type.
heh
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Jul 30, 2009 - 03:39pm PT
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Oh, god, that's disgusting. I oughta go back to edit my earlier post to say "crud," which is what Paul actually said.
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Jul 30, 2009 - 03:45pm PT
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The funny thing is, we have a route here that is almost a carbon copy of Costanoan. 4 pitch 5.easy that is just so much fun. I've lost track of how many times I've climbed it, over 20 times solo, once twice in a lunch "hour" and I've taken all 3 of my kids up it (it is possible to manage 3 kids and 3 ropes, not easy, but possible), and finally got a chance to climb it with my wife.
I likely wouldn't fully appreciate our crud if it weren't for my exerpiences at the Pinnacles, all of which were good.
There is something to be learned from climbs that don't have the perfect approach, perfect rock, or perfect protection. We are all far from perfect, why should the rock we climb be any different?
Ah, to be young and foolish again
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Jul 30, 2009 - 03:51pm PT
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"...young and foolish..."
Um, Paul, we try not to use those words near each other on this site.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jul 30, 2009 - 03:54pm PT
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Yeah Paul! Nice Tyrolean! Good lookin choss up there eh. It's got me salivating.
Brad- I'm in for the long haul!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 31, 2009 - 01:20am PT
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heh
2nd funny munge make in 1 day
gratuitous pinns shot...
Noots in action, actually.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Jul 31, 2009 - 02:52am PT
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That looks like the direct start to Machete Direct.
Bruce
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 31, 2009 - 03:00am PT
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winner!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jul 31, 2009 - 03:00am PT
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Mushitty direct for sure! Noots told me he took many falls pullin through that 12b? section, on thier way to freeing the route.
Noots rools!
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Jul 31, 2009 - 11:30am PT
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As well as we love the Pinns, the thought of climbing there in this heat is enough to make your stomach turn. It was hotter than h##l climbing at 8,400 feet yesterday, I can't even imagine the Pinns now, even in the shade.
I'll wait until October.
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kev
climber
CA
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Jul 31, 2009 - 12:08pm PT
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Brad,
You can only have Mucci every other weekend - he enlisted in the SoYo FA crew...We can share him though!
kev
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 31, 2009 - 12:13pm PT
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whoa whoa whoa whoa, I'm looking for a more equitable division of the mucci. SPH and Yos are calling.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Jul 31, 2009 - 01:47pm PT
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Hell with you two on the Mucci issue. Young, motivated resources with a great sense of style, ethics and history aren't easy to find. The highest and best use for this resource is at Pinns. Two out of three weekends is my last offer.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 31, 2009 - 02:10pm PT
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Mucci, I will bring beer.
Last best and final offer.
LOL!
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drc
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2009 - 03:40pm PT
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Dudes, it¨s August and you are already chomping at the Pinns bit?
I would add drunk and deranged to young and motivated;)
Cheers from the Cordillera Blanca!!!
V.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jul 31, 2009 - 03:51pm PT
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Victor! Your okay I see? big shout out from all of us here in sunny California!
Tell Ally I said whats up!
Mucci
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kev
climber
CA
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Jul 31, 2009 - 04:00pm PT
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Yo Vic and Ally,
Hope the trip is going well. As you can see we've been
busy....Vic you comming along for the chopping tour in sept?
Brad,
I'll tell you what I'll join you two some this winter as well when the weathers bad in the valley...
kev
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