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drc
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 18, 2007 - 07:55pm PT
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Dec 18, 2007 - 08:01pm PT
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that sissy bolt didn't used to be there, just the garbage can handle. This was on the first route I ever did at the pinnacles as a wee lad.
Tom
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 18, 2007 - 08:03pm PT
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tru that! you need quarter inchers to have a true good time. ;)
another convert in the making
be sure to check out the spray at www.mudncrud.com
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kev
climber
CA
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Dec 18, 2007 - 08:19pm PT
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Nice Jody....drc is not a convert in the making we've climbed a lot there.... Its the most fun you can have on crap rock.
Drc and I were talking about doing some bolt replacement out there. who should I talk to about $ support/donations for replacement bolts and hangers.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Dec 18, 2007 - 08:43pm PT
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Hello, my name is Brad and I have a pathetic life.
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scooter
climber
Moss Landing CA
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Dec 18, 2007 - 09:10pm PT
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That is funny, I went climbing there for the first time a few weeks ago. We did this dihedral with a crack and some bolts (why are they there?). I got to the top and looked out left and wondered what that junk on the wall was. Maybe that is what I saw. Why is that there. If some one went to the trouble of replacing the bolt with a camo one why leave the handle. I understand if it is the historic aspect of the deal, but still the tree isn't on the Arches anymore either. Its pretty big.
On another note, I really want to do some more climbing on the West side of Pinnacles. If anyone would be willing to go and show me around a bit I would drive or Pay for gas and make some lunch. Honestly, I would just like to do some moderate fun routes. I am a good partner and a safe climber.
Patrick Warren
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 18, 2007 - 09:14pm PT
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ask around for this guy called the Feral Rat.
"I don't want to die mommy"
LOL
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 18, 2007 - 09:14pm PT
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"The Pinnacles blows! Anybody that spends any sort of time there or has spent time there has a pathetic life. Go somewhere with real climbing."
LOL!!!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 18, 2007 - 09:15pm PT
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Scooter, fyi...
"If some one went to the trouble of replacing the bolt with a camo one why leave the handle. I understand if it is the historic aspect of the deal"
that's exactly it, the garage door handle has been there for eons. well maybe not that long, but I do believe it is a FA piece. don't worry clip it, it is solid.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 18, 2007 - 09:16pm PT
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Hello, My name is Munge, I have a pathetic life.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 18, 2007 - 09:20pm PT
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drc + Kev,
Bruce Hildenbrand and I have a bunch of bolts and hangers from ASCA and ARI that we use for replacement at Pinnacles. Bruce has been keeping careful track of what has been replaced, and we even integrated this info in the FA info in Brad's new guide! If you do some replacement, we should probably coordinate, so that we don't show up at the same climb shortly afterwards and find the work already done. We also try to contact the FA party if they are still active for permission; sometimes they prefer to do the replacement themselves.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 18, 2007 - 09:28pm PT
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no permission needed from me, in 20 years or whenever the whippersnappers get around to replacing the monster 4 inchers that i put in.
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scooter
climber
Moss Landing CA
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Dec 18, 2007 - 09:38pm PT
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There is no doubt in my mind that the bolt is good. That wasn't my concern. I just think it is a funny opposition to camo the bolt hanger next to a big obvious hunk of metal. Was the handle used 'eons' ago in place of a bolt hanger? Or as a joke? If a bolt hanger, why not use JUST the camo modern one that has already been replaced? No doubt, it probably was pretty dern good at the time it was new with the original 1/4 inchers. If it was done as a joke, then I guess that was the first ascensionist choice.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Dec 18, 2007 - 09:54pm PT
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Anybody remember/know why there is a garage door/garbage can handle bolted to the rock? I remember as a kid clipping that thing. I now remember that I had trouble with it, and either clipped it off with a chouinard oval, or maybe just slinged it and tied it off, either way that nuetrino in the photo wouldn't make it around the handle.
As for the visual impact of a piece of garbage bolted to a cliff, no one has been so offended enough to cut it off so far.
What's the name of that route anyway?
Tom
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Dec 18, 2007 - 10:32pm PT
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The garage door handle is on the second pitch of an excellent climb called Twinkle Toes Traverse on the West Side. It's been there since the early 1970s first ascent. I understand that it was placed as a joke. Subsequent guidebooks have treated it like it was meant to be a joke.
I'll never forget my first ever climbing road trip to Pinnacles (in 1984). We'd bought the (then) new Gagner guidebook which described a garage door handle bolted to the rock! How absurd! We had to go do the route just to see it.
Two things to remember. First, although now days bolting "garbage" to the rock would rightly be considered offensive; a threat to access, and asthetics, the climbing community (especially that at Pinns) in the early 70s was much smaller then. "Impact" type issues were unknown and largely unforseen. Chuck Richards (who did the route) was heavily involved in Pinns climbing then (he wrote the 1974 guidebook). In this context I can accept the handle as once a joke, now a bit of history.
Second is the rebolting. The rebolting was done (I'm pretty sure) by Bruce Hidenbrand under the auspices of the ASCA. Bruce, alone and with Clint has replaced literally hundreds of bolts at Pinnacles. All to my and your benefit. Bruce has a great sense of the history of the place. He's very conscientious in his rebolting. While I admit that the new bolt hanger/garage door handle combo looks a little funky, I'm not sure how else to have rebolted the situation. Two old quarter inch bolts held the handle in place. How to rebolt using two holes a predetermined distance apart, in variable rock, where if either bolt fails the protection is no good? Hard choice. I certainly can't fault the way he solved the problem. Oh, and maybe he used the camo hanger because that was what he had handy? I've done that before myself.
There's my long winded opinion.
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kev
climber
CA
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Dec 18, 2007 - 10:41pm PT
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Clint, I'll contact you early next year about coordinating on this, I'm off to jtree for a little while. Perhaps Henri might want to get in on the act.
I had considered contacting Greg but figured there was a more local scene for this but if Greg and the ASCA want to help, cool.
As far as the camo hanger goes I bet that was done as a joke or by Mark (guy who was replacing bolts a few years ago and making them uber camo.) The reason i suspect it was a joke is the anchor is shiny and new at the end of P1 so the camo job wasn't done with the rest of it, and I seem to remember the old DIY hangers on it a few years back. Who knows-I am getting old.
To those of you who question why do it there, the response is simple.
1) It's winter and it's an easy day trip
2) I've replaced an old star drivein out there so I know how bad those bolts are.
3) I like to trust the bolts on R routes, if i don't trust em it's more like an X route.
On a side note has anyone climbed the one move wonder '10a' on the right of bad man mezanene? It seemed stiff to us. Shame the rock is so loose for the second half of the new 5.9 up there.
Scotter, email me next year. The west side kicks some muddy ass, as does the high peaks....Much less traffic
kev
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ec
climber
ca
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Dec 18, 2007 - 10:54pm PT
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"The Pinnacles blows! Anybody that spends any sort of time there or has spent time there has a pathetic life. Go somewhere with real climbing."
The Pinns is a beautiful place. The climbing there is a great diversion from the 'norm' and can build up your cojones, dude. Doing that, is not a waste of time.
 ec
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kev
climber
CA
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Dec 18, 2007 - 10:58pm PT
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ec,
Jody's just messing around. I think his dad was once a climbing ranger there.....
kev
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ec
climber
ca
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Dec 18, 2007 - 11:01pm PT
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Oh...
Man. Thinking about rangers, I'm glad I haven't run into that 'gestapo' ranger on the westside in a couple of years. That guy should work in the security housing unit in a prison.
ec
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Dec 18, 2007 - 11:19pm PT
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I wouldn't have guessed in a million years that Todd Gordon had ever climbed at Pinns. I associate your name so much with Josh. Have you really ever climbed there?
And, BTW, I'm pretty sure your slide was scanned backwards. That looks like Discovery Wall, but in a not right way. Clint, does it look backwards?
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Dec 18, 2007 - 11:31pm PT
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over at the Monolith
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 18, 2007 - 11:44pm PT
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> Clint, does it look backwards?
Yep, I was thinking the same thing. View from the top of the Monolith, north to Discovery Wall.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 18, 2007 - 11:54pm PT
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Kev,
> On a side note has anyone climbed the one move wonder '10a' on the right of bad man mezanene? It seemed stiff to us.
Do you mean the "Gary and Phyllis Headwall"? (Formerly known as "Upper Bandit Bench"?) I have not climbed it, but I helped finish rebolting it after approaching from above. I think I tried bouldering out the starting moves - definitely tough.
> Shame the rock is so loose for the second half of the new 5.9 up there.
Full Throttle? Yeah, the rock on Machete Ridge can be disappointing sometimes.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 19, 2007 - 12:00am PT
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ec,
Yeah, Jody was trolling - he didn't leave even a smiley face as a clue.... He lived there as a kid, and returns occasionally.
1974 photo from Jody's website
http://www.sierramountainphotography.com/id23.html
That unfriendly west side ranger is long gone. As well as the daytime use hours that were a pain to deal with for a few years.
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kev
climber
CA
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Dec 19, 2007 - 12:02am PT
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Clint,
Yup that's the climb. The start is hard for 10a, we thought it more like 10b/c. Looks as if the start was prolly done on aid originally given the first clip is reachable from the ground and the next one is close enough to easily use for aid. Nice shinny new bolts-thanks.
The second half of "full throttle" is really loose. Such a shame because the first half of the route is good. I wish the anchors were much lower, not much sense in continuing to the end of the route and I suspect the 2 newer routes to the left suffer from the same syndrome.
Next time I'm bringing aiders and going to top out on Bills Bad Bolts (which looked shiny and new, prolly thanks to you) from Gary and Phyllis's Headwall.....
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 19, 2007 - 12:06am PT
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kev,
The first part of Bill's Bad Bolts was replaced by Bruce Hildenbrand (bhilden) and Steve York (spyork). There are still lots of old bolts on it, but the belays are good and I'm sure there are newer/bigger bolts every once in awhile. Bruce and I worked on the Gary and Phyllis' Headwall; Erik Bratton had already replaced a couple of the key bolts on it.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Dec 19, 2007 - 12:15am PT
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Yeah, but the three the newer routes on the upper mezzanine: Full Throttle, Red Line and Drop Zone, all have cool names.
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salad
climber
San Diego
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Dec 19, 2007 - 12:37am PT
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second bolt placed from hooks. its more like 5.9 as opposed to 10a, but behrens had climbed in the gym the night before and was feeling soft.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 19, 2007 - 01:54am PT
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oh get off.
puh-lease
you busted a knob making it harder. don't lie.
(I don't think I called it 10a, actually. Though I'm pretty sure some stuff has broken. Left foot for the move to the second bolt?)
as for this...
"The second half of "full throttle" is really loose. Such a shame because the first half of the route is good. I wish the anchors were much lower, not much sense in continuing to the end of the route and I suspect the 2 newer routes to the left suffer from the same syndrome."
This comment has been made several times, and at this point if the sport factions want to drop the anchor, go for it. I had originally intended to go up and finish on the upper bolt ladder that was from a prior ascent. The anchor needed to be close to the bolt ladder but not so close as to be right under the leader.
Ultimately then, with the 13 bolt route down low, and it's connector pitch to the belay for Redline, etc. ( that lower belay not put in by us) and the old bolt ladder, one could eventually have an entirely new link up that goes bottom to the summit in a fairly straight line. Haven't seen the book so I'm not sure on which names are which, but I think the guys ended up finishing out the upper bolt ladder pitch. Did it go in the final analysis?
Strom, bust out yer crow bar, drop that anchor, sporto. No one's going to do the upper pitches anyways. :)
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Dec 19, 2007 - 02:22am PT
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Billz Bad Boltz is plenty safe now.
I can attest that Bhilden works his arse off on the Pinnacles. I suspect Clint does as well. Thanks for all the work of you folks and others.
I like climbing there. My kid and I had a great time last weekend. But I have a pathetic life, so I fit right in.
OK, Kane and I have to go find the garbage can handle now. Sounds like a mission...
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Dec 19, 2007 - 02:57am PT
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Hey, thanks for all the kind words! Just as a bit of clarification, when I rebolted the second pitch of Twinkle Toes Traverse (the first pitch and anchor had already been rebolted by some unkown persons) with my friend Frosty Saufley I replaced three protection bolts and the anchor, but did not touch the garbage can handle. Don't know who did it.
One thing worth noting about the bolt at the base of the garbage can handle is that it is a wedge bolt. Personally, I don't recommend wedge bolts at Pinnacles. In general, the rock is too soft. There are many examples in the Pinnacles where the stud has come more than halfway out of the hole when trying to tighten the bolt. I have replaced all the ones (stud sticking way out) I have encountered except the one on Adam's Apple at the crux!
Like a fine wine, climbing at the Pinnacles is an acquired taste!
Bruce
ps - I replaced the first bolt on Gary and Phyllis Headwall in December of last year(2006) because the threads on the wedge bolt were trashed putting it in and I couldn't replace the old hanger with a newer one, thicker, one. The second bolt on Gary and Phyllis headwall used to be one of those 3/8" Rawl buttonheads, but it was replaced sometime around 2005 (maybe by Erik B?).
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climbrunride
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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Dec 19, 2007 - 09:44am PT
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> On a side note has anyone climbed the one move wonder '10a' on the right of bad man mezanene? It seemed stiff to us.
When did Upper Bandit's Bench get the name change? Was Gary and Phyllis Headwall the opriginal name? I always thought it was a *hard* 5.9, but never really wanted the rating changed to double digits; I just called it "old 5.9". It is a great route to learn about using runners. One can get sucked in to using quickdraws on the first three bolts, but you better use long ones higher up, or you'll experience one of the most amazing leg workouts.
As for the handle on Twinkle Toes Traverse, it should be plenty strong enough. The route is a low-angle slab through that section, plus it primarily traverses past the handle, and it is quite a few feew out from the belay. So if someone did manage to fall just past it, they would not really generate much force onto the handle. It's a very fun piece of history and I hope no one ever removes it.
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climbrunride
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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Dec 19, 2007 - 09:52am PT
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And thinking of Twinkle Toes and this thread's title, a fun story comes to mind. Ever think 'what if there was an earthquake?' while climbing? It happened.
I was guiding two beginners up Twinkle Toes. One was at the first belay with me and the other was getting close to us when an earthquake hit. The whole place rumbled. It was loud and shook a lot. I thought for sure that the crappy rock in the headwall above would start raining down on us at any moment. I'm not sure if I was more worried about my clients dying or me dying. They were understandably pretty freaked out and asked if we should go down. I thought about it and said no. I figured we were safer close in to the rock than around the base and moving out away from it, where falling chunks were most likely to land. So despite being super nervous, I lead on up the next pitch. And surprisingly, no loose rock came down at all.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Dec 19, 2007 - 10:29am PT
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To the left of Gary and Phylis Headwall on the same slab are the three new routes and one very old route. The new routes are all nicely bolted up to run out, easy slabs to a single anchor for all three. (I use "nicely" to mean closely, but not over bolted).
The old route is the Glen Denny/ Gary Colliver climb "Daedalus." Daedalus is the farthest left route of these. It takes two pitches to get to what Mungeclimber calls "the upper bolt ladder that was from a prior ascent." That upper bolt ladder is Daedlus' third pitch (and two more pitches follow).
Denny and Colliver were extreme minimalists and left no bolt anchor at the base of the "upper bolt ladder." When I did it I belayed using the first bolt on the ladder and a so so cam.
I think, like most people who were aware of the bolt ladder, Munge and crew assumed that the old bolt ladder was a first, not a third pitch. So, if Munge intended that "The anchor needed to be close to the bolt ladder but not so close as to be right under the leader," then he's inadvertantly added an anchor to this pitch. (Mistakes like this aren't totally unheard of. I myself "added" a bolt to a Holmgren first ascent 8 or 10 years after he did it. He left no record of the route and nothing fixed, not even an anchor. Until reviewing notes with him I had no idea the route had ever been climbed! He retroactively OKed my bolt, so I left it in.)
So, there are two arguments for moving the anchor down: 1. Closer bolting on these three routes is followed by very runout but much easier slab climbing and, 2. The anchor is on a preexisting route.
Now, my comments might be moot, since Munge earlier commanded his worker bee Strom to do the work. Strom usually jumps right to it when told to by Munge, so the work may already be done :)
Actually, changing the anchor location would make the topo to this area inaccurate. Leave it where it is.
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billygoat
climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
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Dec 19, 2007 - 11:19am PT
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I might be completely wrong, but I think Peter Carrick might have been the one to replace the bolt on the garage door handle on twinkle toes. Anybody else remember him saying so?
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Dec 19, 2007 - 11:28am PT
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As for earthquakes at the Pinnacles, Clint and I were putting up the route "Abner Bear is Everywhere" on Long's Folly a couple of days before Christmas in 2003 when that big earthquake on the San Andreas fault that killed two people in Paso Robles hit.
Clint was hanging off a hook drilling a bolt when the whole pinnacle started swaying like a palm tree in the wind. As you know, Pinnacles is right on the San Andreas Fault and the epicenter was probably only about 50-70 air miles away. It was really wild and kudos to Clint for hanging in there, literally, and finishing the drilling.
Bruce
ps - the name for the route comes from the fact that the late, great Pinnacles climbing ranger Andy Artz used to carry a little stuffed bear named Abner on his rucksack. We miss you Andy!
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Dec 19, 2007 - 11:48am PT
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billygoat, you're right, it was Peter who did that bolt replacement. And a great job he did, too.
That garage door handle is one of the funniest things I've seen climbing. I used to sling it, but didn't think it would really hold a fall. No sense of humor you have if you think it should be removed.
Another funny hanger can be found on the West Side--it's a Dinseyland Bottle opener...Anybody seen that one? I'm not sure which is more worthless, though, the hanger or the bolt holding it up on the rock.
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Dec 19, 2007 - 12:02pm PT
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I too was at Pinnacles durning an earthquake. We were on the top of Machete Ridge doing the Old Original Route. We felt the whole ridge shaking and heard rumbing in the distance but saw no rock fall. Kind of exciting and kept us on our toes.
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yosguns
climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 19, 2007 - 02:06pm PT
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"The Pinnacles blows! Anybody that spends any sort of time there or has spent time there has a pathetic life. Go somewhere with real climbing." Oh my God, this explains so much!!! I always suspected we had pathetic lives, so nice to finally be validated!
As far as lose rock on that new 5.9 "Full Throttle" off "Mezzanine" (or "Gary and Phyllis Headwall" or--formerly known as--"Upper Bandit Bench"), I joked when I got to the anchor that climbing in three and following two, the climb certainly went to at least old school 5.9 by the time I climbed. Found a sick sort of pleasure in the number of times we yelled rock, considering how loud a family was being down below... Sound sure does some strange things around there.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 19, 2007 - 02:49pm PT
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"The second bolt on Gary and Phyllis headwall used to be one of those 3/8" Rawl buttonheads, but it was replaced sometime around 2005 (maybe by Erik B?)."
Erik let me pop it and replace it. Brand new tuning forks care of Theron. woot!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 19, 2007 - 04:25pm PT
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now back from lunch...
can someone clarify where Daedalus goes exactly?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 19, 2007 - 04:41pm PT
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climbrunride,
> When did Upper Bandit's Bench get the name change? Was Gary and Phyllis Headwall the opriginal name?
Upper Bandit's Bench was just a name invented for Paul Gagner's guidebook, for a route that he did not know the history of. Larry Arthur knew who did the FA and told me a few years back - I even got an email from Phyllis (Garcia) about it.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 19, 2007 - 04:42pm PT
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Robert,
> can someone clarify where Daedalus goes exactly?
Get your guidebook and all will be clear. Why don't you have it yet? You are even slower than I am!
The first pitch is left of Drop Zone and starts by chimneying between a pine and the rock. Then up a faint streak past one bolt to a 2 bolt belay. Second pitch goes straight up past one bolt to the bolt ladder in the upper tier.
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Dec 19, 2007 - 04:54pm PT
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BTW - Brad, the new Pinns guidebook is very cool.
I bought mine at the vistor's bldg. last Saturday. Some other guy was buying one at the same time. There was only one left on the shelf after we both left!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 19, 2007 - 06:26pm PT
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Oh I gotcha Clint. I was picturing that tier as a single pitch, but naturally the shorter ropes meant shorter pitches. So that middle tier has the 1st and 2nd pitch, and thus possibly the bolt anchor on Drop Zone conflicts with the path of the 2nd pitch of Daedalus.
If so, my apologies to Denny and Colliver. Strom and I inspected quite seriously for bolts off left of where we were before progressing up and there was no signs.
I think Daedalus should not be climbed using the tree. Maybe we can create a line in from the right so that tree doesn't get all chewed up.
I'd love to get a copy of the book. I am pretty slow to react. That's for sure.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Dec 19, 2007 - 07:32pm PT
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Munge: I don't think you owe them an apology. It is clear that you didn't know of this route when you put in your anchor. Just like you, I for example originally thought the third pitch bolt ladder was the start of a route. When I climbed Drop Zone (your route closest to Daedalus) I was (barely) able to see the Daedalus bolts, but only because I knew where they were since I'd recently climbed Daedalus. The bolts are rusty and hard to see and there are dam few of them! they are effectively invisible. Your route and their route also converge as they get higher, so the first and second pitch Daedalus bolts are 30 feet or more left of yours. The routes only overlap (or close to it) at the end of your routes, near the start of the bolt ladder.
No apology in my opinion, but I raised the issue to add to your thought process about moving or not moving the anchor.
And I disagree with you about the tree! It's kind of a cool, if sappy start to the climb. And I don't think there are enough idiot fanatics out there who climb that kind of stuff that an occasional ascent will hurt the tree.
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kev
climber
CA
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Dec 19, 2007 - 07:49pm PT
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Munge, It feels considerably harder than Jumangi and the other 10a on flumes (Nipples and Nobs might be the name?), as well as harder than Even Coyotes Like it Doggie Style-yeah a left foot would have been helpful...
As far as the anchor issue goes with the other routes, it's not the runout so much because the climbing is very easy past the last bolt. The rock is just very loose even by pinnacles standards (in our opinions...we have climbed alot there but no where near as much as some of the people on this thread).
I need for friday to get here so I can go climb...arg....
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 19, 2007 - 08:10pm PT
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kev, yeah, i was originally going to put an extra bolt on Redline or Full Throttle up on the easy ground just to half the distance of the total runout to the anchor. But got out voted on it. It would suck to be up near the anchor and blow a foot, and pitch that distance to the last bolt even if it is easy ground.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 19, 2007 - 08:28pm PT
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I've done Flip-a-Coin Chimney; I'm sure Brad has done it also.
Not dying is good; the first goal of course.
Did you feel like you were flipping a coin about making it that day? I guess it came up in your favor. It can be a good thing to have a close call and survive to get some perspective; sometimes the second chance does not happen.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 30, 2009 - 03:00am PT
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I wonder if a certain some one has moved a certain anchor to modify a certain topo.
;)
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jul 30, 2009 - 01:57pm PT
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HA! I checked it out in the spring Munge, With my spotting scope! Now I could see what all of the hub was about. Looked Like moving your anchor (if it was yours I was looking at) needed to go down and right?
I would be way into the link up from ground to summit, If you guys need help, big crowbars, somebody with time on their hands, etc... I'm in!
Can't wait for the Pinns!
Mucci
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jul 30, 2009 - 02:04pm PT
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i really hate the Pinns, yet love Castle Rock, so I may be a puss...
It's just all that f*#king choss, man!
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Jul 30, 2009 - 02:20pm PT
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Blue, embrace the crud. When you look at the history of the pinns, and take more of an alpine approach, it can be quite enjoyable. I learned to enjoy the pinns when I ventured past the popular East side crags and hit the outlying formations, high peaks and the West side.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jul 30, 2009 - 02:29pm PT
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Paul- that would be a great (what route is this) if you excluded a certain few Mudpeople!
Bluey you know you love it.
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Jul 30, 2009 - 02:51pm PT
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I'd have to look at the guide book, I think it was either the hand or the frog. It was over 20 years ago, I think that was my first attempt on a multi pitch route, and I bailed when there was just too much runout to the belay. Also the 100 degree temps didn't help with motivation.
Blue, if you haven't done Costanoan you're missing out.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jul 30, 2009 - 02:58pm PT
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Paul- I have been to both area's, still can't place the route, Great climbing there!
Constanoan is a fantastic route, with a great summit.
Somebody will know what route that is...
Paging Munge, Mntyoung?
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Jul 30, 2009 - 03:00pm PT
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Paul,
looks like either the Frog or the Thumb. Pinnacles climbing requires a lot of finesse. Sometimes the biggest holds aren't the best. Luckily, Pinnacles climbing (at least on formations other then Discovery Wall and the Monolith) isn't for everyone and that is a good thing!
Bruce
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Jul 30, 2009 - 03:03pm PT
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I'm 99% sure that's Atlas Shrugs on The Frog. An old Beyer route, committing 5.9.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Jul 30, 2009 - 03:14pm PT
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priceless protection!!!
bwahahaha
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Jul 30, 2009 - 03:16pm PT
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Atlas Shrugs it was. Needless to say leading at my climbing limit of 5.9 at that time, was a bit much for likely the second or third time I'd lead anything, and my first attempt at a multi pitch route.
The funny thing is, once I learned to appreciate the pinnacles, I was married with young children and only visited there a few more times before leaving the state. I need to dig up and scan a few of those pictures.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jul 30, 2009 - 03:17pm PT
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Ahh Atlas, Brad I am waiting for another obscure outing this fall buddy!
Mucci
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Jul 30, 2009 - 03:34pm PT
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"AN other..." Just one? Can't I have you for at least a few obscure outings?
Paul, I led Atlas and the route left of it, Big Sky early enough in my career that I didn't know they were unusually run out, or at all different than "normal." Looking back, they're both pretty committing routes.
Bluey, you might think again about Pinns. What Paul said about embracing the munge is good advice. The history of the place, combined with its beauty and the ethics of adventure... it's pretty fun climbing. There is some pretty good rock there which allows you to avoid really bad stuff. Its also a great place to introduce kids to climbing (yours is getting old enough now?) Besides, who wants to limit themselves to climbing on good rock only? That keeps things pretty limited.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 30, 2009 - 03:36pm PT
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"embracing the munge is good advice"
yes, but Bluey isn't my type.
heh
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Jul 30, 2009 - 03:39pm PT
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Oh, god, that's disgusting. I oughta go back to edit my earlier post to say "crud," which is what Paul actually said.
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Jul 30, 2009 - 03:45pm PT
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The funny thing is, we have a route here that is almost a carbon copy of Costanoan. 4 pitch 5.easy that is just so much fun. I've lost track of how many times I've climbed it, over 20 times solo, once twice in a lunch "hour" and I've taken all 3 of my kids up it (it is possible to manage 3 kids and 3 ropes, not easy, but possible), and finally got a chance to climb it with my wife.
I likely wouldn't fully appreciate our crud if it weren't for my exerpiences at the Pinnacles, all of which were good.
There is something to be learned from climbs that don't have the perfect approach, perfect rock, or perfect protection. We are all far from perfect, why should the rock we climb be any different?
Ah, to be young and foolish again
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Jul 30, 2009 - 03:51pm PT
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"...young and foolish..."
Um, Paul, we try not to use those words near each other on this site.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jul 30, 2009 - 03:54pm PT
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Yeah Paul! Nice Tyrolean! Good lookin choss up there eh. It's got me salivating.
Brad- I'm in for the long haul!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 31, 2009 - 01:20am PT
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heh
2nd funny munge make in 1 day
gratuitous pinns shot...
Noots in action, actually.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Jul 31, 2009 - 02:52am PT
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That looks like the direct start to Machete Direct.
Bruce
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 31, 2009 - 03:00am PT
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winner!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jul 31, 2009 - 03:00am PT
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Mushitty direct for sure! Noots told me he took many falls pullin through that 12b? section, on thier way to freeing the route.
Noots rools!
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Jul 31, 2009 - 11:30am PT
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As well as we love the Pinns, the thought of climbing there in this heat is enough to make your stomach turn. It was hotter than h##l climbing at 8,400 feet yesterday, I can't even imagine the Pinns now, even in the shade.
I'll wait until October.
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kev
climber
CA
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Jul 31, 2009 - 12:08pm PT
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Brad,
You can only have Mucci every other weekend - he enlisted in the SoYo FA crew...We can share him though!
kev
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 31, 2009 - 12:13pm PT
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whoa whoa whoa whoa, I'm looking for a more equitable division of the mucci. SPH and Yos are calling.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Jul 31, 2009 - 01:47pm PT
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Hell with you two on the Mucci issue. Young, motivated resources with a great sense of style, ethics and history aren't easy to find. The highest and best use for this resource is at Pinns. Two out of three weekends is my last offer.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 31, 2009 - 02:10pm PT
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Mucci, I will bring beer.
Last best and final offer.
LOL!
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drc
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2009 - 03:40pm PT
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Dudes, it¨s August and you are already chomping at the Pinns bit?
I would add drunk and deranged to young and motivated;)
Cheers from the Cordillera Blanca!!!
V.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jul 31, 2009 - 03:51pm PT
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Victor! Your okay I see? big shout out from all of us here in sunny California!
Tell Ally I said whats up!
Mucci
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kev
climber
CA
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Jul 31, 2009 - 04:00pm PT
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Yo Vic and Ally,
Hope the trip is going well. As you can see we've been
busy....Vic you comming along for the chopping tour in sept?
Brad,
I'll tell you what I'll join you two some this winter as well when the weathers bad in the valley...
kev
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Jul 31, 2009 - 04:02pm PT
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"Brad,
I'll tell you what I'll join you two some this winter as well when the weathers bad in the valley...
kev"
Deal. We'll find some totally obscure crud to test our mettle on. I'm gunning for 800 by the end of the upcoming season.
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kev
climber
CA
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Jul 31, 2009 - 04:11pm PT
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800 - that's proud - hell 100 is proud there!
kev
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Jul 31, 2009 - 04:12pm PT
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Awesome!!
Interesting garbage can lid up there.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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yesh, a pinns montage
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Ricardo Cabeza
Trad climber
Warner, NH
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Yikes!
That's some seriously bad looking rock.
I love the choss and the OW, maybe it's the lack of technique, maybe (probably) it's the adventurous spirit of the whole thing.
Mostly, it's composure while mid-grovel, that makes me seek out neglected areas and routes.
Whimpering and still pulling through just seems to make it that much better!
The FA's must have been some serious endeavours!
Strong work, guys.
Gotta get me to the Pins one of these days, maybe on my triumphant return to NorCal.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Pinns is what it is.
I have always believed that if it was two hours farther south, then it wouldn't be as popular of a spot. It's the closest "big" crag to the bay area.
Although it does offer it's own sort of deal... unique it is. Plenty of history too, plenty of Bay Area guys over the years. I actually worked with Paul Gagner in 88-89 at TNF. He was pretty nuts about it. But if I could trade it for just about any other crag in the Sierra of equal size (or half its size!) I'd do it!
If you climb at the Pinnacles a lot though, you don't fear other crags, that's for sure. It'll grow hair.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Was out on the west side last Sat. with the kids. Temps were perfect, but didn't see any other climbers the entire day.
Last light on the Elephant.
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Gearhead
Trad climber
Novato Ca
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I was there Sat, only saw two parties at Disco Wall and no one at the Monolith. Spent the day at the Sisters climbing runouts!! Love that place
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Nate,
I've always wondered why they call it Elephant Rock. It looks much more like bunny rock to me. (Unlike Elephant Rock in the valley).
Happy belated Turkey Day!
kev
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Kev,
Agreed. I still have a hard time seeing an elephant. More like some sort of Ceratops.
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okie
Trad climber
San Leandro, Ca
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Back in the day a famous climber with the initials DR gave some young okies some sage advice: don't climb there, it's all choss he said.
Then in the 80's I moved to Santa Cruz and discovered how much fun the Pinnacles are!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Whoa man! Elephant rock.....
Just did an early and surely the last ascent of "Never Forget" .10a.
This route is a front runner for the most chosstacular route at pinns IMHO.
Nate... Nice pic, love the moon. Didn't know you climbed at pinns. Hit me up next time alright?
Pinnacles bump.
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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The late Galen Rowell considered the Pinnacles to be one of his favorite places on the planet for hiking.
Although rhyolite breccia is a far cry from Tuolumne granite in terms of rock quality, the Pinns is a great off season climbing & hiking destination, especially if you're a geologist.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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T-trad, your first pic is on flumes - no?
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Portent on Discovery Wall
My biggest concern RE the Pinns is the practice of camouflaging bolts. I've run into this on west side routes. For example, the 2nd pitch on Tilting Terrace has several camo bolts. I consider camouflaging bolts to be dangerous. Anyone know why this was done? Did tourists complain about seeing bolts? I have a hard enough time finding bolts when I'm on a climb let alone seeing them from a trail.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Camouflaging bolts is recommended in the newest guide, although I can't recall if it is advised only for trailside routes. Clint? Brad?
Even unpainted bolts can be hard to spot in that rock sometimes.
Mucci,
In the past, I've only made it out to PInnacles maybe 1 or 2 times a year (and sometimes it's mostly hiking with the kiddos), but it is a lot of fun.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Feb 16, 2010 - 09:04pm PT
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Ttrad, camouflaging, generally, is considered a good effort on the part of climbers to minimize their visual impact. Given the large number of hikers and the proximity to trails and visibility, it's one of those things we do.
In far distant crags, I'm sure no one will really care that the hangers aren't painted to match the color of the stone.
Sometimes finding the hanger is the crux and provides for a lot of adventure.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Mar 17, 2010 - 03:46pm PT
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pinns is right!
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