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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Feb 25, 2009 - 09:29pm PT
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bumpity bump to da bump
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Mar 25, 2009 - 01:18pm PT
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buump
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salad
climber
Escondido
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Mar 25, 2009 - 01:33pm PT
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first bolt of splatter matt
third..
matt's splatter
actually i dont know what you guys ended up calling this route.
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SGropp
Mountain climber
Eastsound, Wa
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Mar 25, 2009 - 03:14pm PT
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The king of stance drilling has to go to Jim "Cosmos" Dunn for putting in a bolt on the crux pitch of the Kor/Ingalls route on Castleton Tower. He drilled the hole with one hand while hanging half out of the overhanging squeeze chimney. This was prior to 1974, long before power drills came into use.
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dcaunt
Sport climber
Chico, CA
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Apr 14, 2009 - 12:21am PT
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Stance drilling by hand on first ascents was the only way to do it, back in the day. Drilling quarter inchers in hard granite was not just hard work but would get the adrenaline going like nothing else.
My vote for the hardest stance drill that I know of was Rob Settlemire's first bolt on Tips Ahoy at south flank of Daff Dome. He literally tore his fingertips apart drilling that bolt.
Sometimes, as I liked to do, run it out to avoid drilling from hideous stances. But that sort of backfired when I went to drill the fourth bolt on Tin Pan Alley at Hammer dome. Looking at a potential 40 footer on a steep smooth slab, had no choice but to stop and drill from a slimy smear hold.
Rock Neurotic at base of El Cap is another sick like route.
Once the bosch became popular in the late eighties, it seemed the art of hand drilling on stance was destined for forums like this.
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bob
climber
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Apr 14, 2009 - 11:03am PT
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The art of stance drilling is not just destined for forums like this. I know so many people who love to stance drill, whether they have rap drilled or not.
In my opinion, there is nothing like it. A whole different adventure. Oh man that feeling of your feet going while the sweat beads drop from your nose or eyebrows. Trying to adjust for one or two more whacks before......."FALLING!!!!!!!!!!!" Good stuff!!!!!!!!!!! Belaying people who are up stance drilling is an awesome experience as well eh? To me, when its hard stances to be drilled from, its like watching a suspense thriller 10 times better than Alfred Hitchcock's best.
OOOOOHHHHHHHH YEAHHH!
Bob J.
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2009 - 06:14pm PT
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Hey, how many ladies place bolts these days, on lead while free climbing? Yeah, stance drilling! Well, I know of at least one… and I think she finally got tired of watching someone else place bolts all day long and decided that she had to have some fun too! After several 1/4” practice bolts at the bivy and one from a simulated stance, Linda was ready to go drilling on lead. She was offered a mid-weight BD hammer to use, but preferred to swing the big lunker instead! We figured that West Farthing (Tuolumne) would be a good spot to start because it is low angle and there are good stances.
So, in early September, Linda, George, and I headed up to the wall. I climbed the first part of the pitch and put in a couple of 3/8” bolts, then let her take over. She cruised up to the first stance and then started swinging the hammer; 15 minutes later she had a 1/4” bolt clipped! And then she went up and placed another 1/4” bolt before coming down for a rest. I placed another 3/8” bolt and then lowered off again. Linda went back up for another 1/4” bolt and then came down to let me put in the belay. And that was the pitch! Angry Dwarf – 5.8 – a fun knob pitch on really good rock… next to Mad Gnome… which is a takeoff on Nomad. WOOHOO!!!
Nice job, Linda!
Yes, she can swing that hammer!
Linda, drilling her first on-lead bolt hole
Linda’s first stance; fixed rope on Mad Gnome, left black streak
George, following the pitch
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Oct 15, 2009 - 06:51pm PT
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Kudos Linda ! Did ya redpoint the pitch??
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Oct 15, 2009 - 07:52pm PT
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Great job Linda Loo!
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Oct 15, 2009 - 08:53pm PT
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2009 - 09:16pm PT
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AD… If Linda has to redpoint the pitch then we need to blindfold her first to make the redpoint fair!!!
So, Mr. Gordon… Would you like to tell us about your megacrystic quartz monzonite/granodiorite desert rock? I think I can still see straight enough to tell that I don’t see Tuolumne… Hmmmm… Very nice.
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Dickbob
climber
Colorado
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Oct 15, 2009 - 10:29pm PT
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Here is a lady who could drill from stance
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Oct 15, 2009 - 11:07pm PT
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cool photos.
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Oct 15, 2009 - 11:18pm PT
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I don't think I could follow Linda's route......
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Oct 15, 2009 - 11:32pm PT
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dink dink dink, dink dink dink, dink dink dink
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 15, 2009 - 11:52pm PT
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all right Linda!
gotta get the back straightened out and ready for the winter's projects...
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Idaho, also. Sorta, kinda mostly, Yeah.
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Oct 16, 2009 - 01:20am PT
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Linda Rules, huh, Minerals?
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Oct 16, 2009 - 01:28am PT
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excellent.
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BillO
Boulder climber
Whittier, CA
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Oct 16, 2009 - 11:19am PT
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yosguns
climber
Durham, NC
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Oct 16, 2009 - 01:49pm PT
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Aw, Linda Lou, congrats!!! This is so exciting; I'm so proud! :) Keep it up. You look darn good doing it, too! Hope we'll see you around the holidays.
Allyson
PS It's really nice to get updates like this!
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