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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 13, 2007 - 11:18pm PT
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El Capitan - East Buttress 11/3/07 - Jenn
We started a bit late, after sleeping through our alarms, but
we still got to the base before sun hit the first pitch.
Amazingly, we had the route to ourselves, on a cloudless day with temps
in the low 70s. Just lucky, I guess....
wide stemming at the end of p1
about to haul the packs through the short crux of p2
awkward groove higher on p2
(yes, I'm belaying from the "ant tree"; they weren't home)
reverse of standard photo, looking over to belay for 5.5 arete.
We belayed at bolts on top of the arete
after the 5.5 arete, up the rubble ledges
and up the central corner to climber's left of the upper arete (required
a little simulclimbing on rubble to reach the next belay, at some old bolts)
slippery corner; fortunately this fingercrack/flake appears just when
it gets steep. (Would be dangerous in the spring when wet)
starting slick hand crack above old bolt belay
slab with fingercrack at top of pitch, just after cool 5.8 overhang
working the double cracks at start of 5.9 diagonal crack
reaching a good jam
some footholds at this point
last few moves. We hauled our packs on this pitch
middle of 5.9 face pitch
thin fingerlock above the 2 fixed pins
got the horn!
nice belay spot at start of traverse to Headwall
a beautiful day in the neighborhood...
finishing the Headwall pitch
last sun on the rocks below
only one long pitch to go (right side of big block above);
anchor is a series of cams in somewhat flaring crack (old fixed pins are gone).
Plus one more very short pitch; we topped out as the light faded and headed down the East Ledges....
Related threads:
Ed + Gary's TR - June 2007:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=406258
online topos:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=459326
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murcy
climber
San Fran Cisco
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Nov 13, 2007 - 11:30pm PT
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great, clint! that's high on my must-do-soon list.
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marky
climber
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Nov 14, 2007 - 12:06am PT
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not bad at all
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Nov 14, 2007 - 12:09am PT
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Nice TR Clint!
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Mimi
climber
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Nov 14, 2007 - 12:12am PT
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Definitely captured the flavor of the entire route. Glad the ants weren't around and what stellar weather in November!
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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Nov 14, 2007 - 12:44am PT
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Nice detail.
Good meeting you the other day....
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 14, 2007 - 12:53am PT
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that looks pretty familiar! thanks for the TR... I need to go back up there and do it again, a really fun long route.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Nov 14, 2007 - 01:22am PT
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i wanna do el cap too!!!
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Nov 14, 2007 - 01:43am PT
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Thanks for the TR!
Light bulb clicked on in my head when I saw the picture of your partner on the left-trending 5.9 crack. That's how you keep it at 5.9! Doing it the way I did it, I thought that was the toughest pitch on the climb, and I seconded it. She makes it look so easy.
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Cassidy
Trad climber
Nova Scotia
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Nov 14, 2007 - 08:05pm PT
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Pics are awesome!! Is the route-finding difficult? Looks like you could go just about anywhere in some of the photos?
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Nov 14, 2007 - 08:35pm PT
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Thanks Clint,
It's been to long. I've got to go back.
Zander
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2007 - 11:20pm PT
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Cassidy,
> Is the route-finding difficult? Looks like you could go just about anywhere in some of the photos?
In places (5.5 arete, middle pitches to prow block belay, and Headwall + pitch above) the the rock is knobby and you do have a choice of which way to go. But with a topo in hand (Meyers/Reid, supertopo, and Fish (online; see link above) are all good), it's fairly clear. On the Headwall, there is a wide section of knobs at first (I go on the far right with a hidden fixed pin), then the line of good knobs and pro is fairly clear and mostly straight up.
The descent down the East Ledges is also non-trivial, so most people go a little earlier in the fall with more daylight if they haven't done that descent before.
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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Nov 14, 2007 - 11:31pm PT
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Thanks for the fun TR! I have a question about the route. I have the general impression that there are several belays with crappy anchors, like 5 or 6. What did you think? I would be curious about the impressions of those supertopers who have done it. Thanks again!
Michael
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Nov 14, 2007 - 11:34pm PT
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Great pics. We didn't bring a camera when we did it. Good thing because it would have been ugly. We approached via the Moratorium. It was a good thought but bad thinking.
it was 100° in El Portal that day and the Moratorium alcove is a solar oven. The water was gone when we got to the start of the East Butt and like perfect n00bs, we decided that 10 (or whatever) pitches of 5.7-5.10 couldn't be THAT bad.
Well....
YOSAR didn't get a call that day. We found a full bike bottle of water at the base of the third pitch and higher up got the cooling spray from the Horsetails and staggered to the top. Just like n00bs we hadn't brought shoes so we descended in our rock shoes, making bloody blisters and ensuring that we couldn't climb the next day. I guess it didn't turn out so bad. We took a rest day then sent the North Face of the Rostrum--great route and in the SHADE.
Mal
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couchmaster
climber
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Nov 14, 2007 - 11:44pm PT
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Great stuff. I thought the crux was a wide almost chimney thing in the middle, but it's been a while...didn't see crux what my memory remembers in the pictures
Thanks Clint!
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FeelioBabar
climber
Sneaking up behind you...
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Nov 15, 2007 - 12:04am PT
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Sweet! Thanks for sharing!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2007 - 04:31am PT
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Michael,
> I have a question about the route. I have the general impression that there are several belays with crappy anchors, like 5 or 6. What did you think? I would be curious about the impressions of those supertopers who have done it.
To answer this question, I'll describe all the belay anchors we used. Here is a low-res version of the supertopo for reference, which is quite accurate in my view:
Belay anchor notes for pitches numbered on supertopo.
(0) optional belay on p1. good tree / roots.
1. 3 good fixed pins + wired nut (also high small wired nut to protect crux)
Note: in the 80s there was a fixed pin 3' right of belay to protect or aid crux.
It is gone now. Someone placed a bolt above/left of it at some point in the 90s,
which was chopped fairly quickly. The hole/scar is still visible (has not been patched).
2. "ant" tree (good), back up with hand sized cam
3. .5"-1" TCUs, all in same crack / block (good)
4. 3/8" Rawlbolt + two 1/4" bolts (SMC hangers)
5. We didn't actually belay at the pine tree, although it could be OK.
You do belay there for the direct prow variation on the Fish topo (see photos
by Ed and Gary, and Greg Opland)
Instead, my partner simulclimbed when I started running out of rope on the lead.
6. two 1/4" bolts at nice ledge (SMC hangers, somewhat oxidized brown)
Can back up with cams/nuts if desired.
Not replacable because they are not original.
[I have not checked the belay (6) on the direct prow variation; I believe it is cams and good]
7. 1"-2" cams in good crack
8. 1/4" bolt (SMC hanger, oxidized brown) + three ring angle pitons
(slings are old; clip the gear directly, of course)
This seemed fine to me and is at a nice stance. If you don't like it, you can make
a belay from cams, 8' higher.
9. We belayed lower, at a stance where the 5.9 face variation intersects the main corner,
using three hand sized cams.
At the belay (9) shown on the supertopo, there is a fixed pin, a fixed daisy chain,
and hand sized cams can be placed.
10. 1" cam, .3" stopper, hand sized cam.
11. fixed pins are gone. 3-3.5" cam, .75" TCU, 2" cam (flaring)
12. We belayed slightly higher than shown, at a big flake above a strange fixed pin
in a horizontal crack. 3" and 3.5" cams.
13. belay at good tree.
So, my opinion is that all the belay anchors are good. Your interpretation may vary, especially if you find 1/4" bolts with SMC hangers oxidized brown scary. Generally you could back up such anchors if you were concerned.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2007 - 04:38am PT
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couchmaster,
> I thought the crux was a wide almost chimney thing in the middle, but it's been a while...didn't see crux what my memory remembers in the pictures
Maybe you climbed the 5.9 offwidth version of pitch 9 (as numbered in the supertopo, see just above). We climbed the 5.9 face version of that pitch.
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piquaclimber
Trad climber
Durango
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Nov 15, 2007 - 10:11am PT
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Excellent Post Clint!
It took me back...
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Duke-
Trad climber
SF, aka: Dirkastan
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Dec 20, 2007 - 11:01pm PT
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Nice pics! Thanks for the great TR.
-Dirka
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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Dec 21, 2007 - 12:48am PT
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Just saw your answer to my question, Clint. Thanks very much for your very detailed report! I can't wait to get up there sometime. Thanks again!
Michael Smith
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Dec 21, 2007 - 01:27am PT
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Nice Clint. Shows the character of the route. Bold endeavor for the season. It is a classic and one of my favorites and have done it more than any other longer route. Hard to get a photo on the knobs of the 5.7 semi-crux section of the Headwall pitch, what a pitch! Good job.
Thanks,
Ken
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Dec 21, 2007 - 07:45am PT
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Nice TR with great pics.
It's got me thinking. Some day...
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Kupandamingi
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Dec 21, 2007 - 11:14am PT
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Super fun route and your pictures do it justice.
As with le bruce (with whom I did the route) your pics make clear that off-fingers/liebacking that slanting 5.9 is a good way to up the grade and make placing pro difficult..
Another novel insight from your TR...have the leader take pics instead of having a bunch of butt shots you actually get to see the climber and the climb!
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murcy
climber
San Fran Cisco
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Dec 21, 2007 - 12:29pm PT
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want
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nutjob
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Dec 22, 2007 - 10:58pm PT
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Great pics... really capture the leader's perspective while en route. This just might motivate me to update my earlier trip report with pics from my silly 2-night epic on the route earlier this summer!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Dec 23, 2007 - 12:54am PT
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Nice Clint, and all. We (Lynn, 'Wheels' Wheeler (RIP) and myself)did it the way Mal did it; Morbutt, but in more favorable weather, first week of November. For some reason we weren't started on pitch one of the Moratorium until about 9:45. All went somethly and we dallied in the coolest spots; I liked the 5.7 knobby pitches best. We topped out, made it to the spider web, and started rapping just as the sun went below the western horizon (no headlamps). We rapped and ran and made it to the car at the time that could just be called full night darkness.
Days don't get much better than that!
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Dec 23, 2007 - 01:03am PT
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My favorite pics:
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 24, 2007 - 11:04am PT
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Hey Clint- since you pay attention to the details.....I have heard rumors that a crucial fixed piton has come out of the crux pitch. Any idea what sort of piton it was and if satisfactory pro can be arranged in its absence? If anybody else has noticed this development or has constructive input fire away. Otherwise, great TR and thread.
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Kupandamingi
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Dec 24, 2007 - 11:31am PT
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whats the crux pitch? the 6 feet of 10b on pitch 2? the slanting 5.9 offfingers before the offwidth/face variation 5.9? the face variation 5.9 itself? W
e did the route earlier this fall and didnt feel there was any hard to protect run outs - run outs on easy ground and an overstated (in the ST) mental crux pitch that took far more protection than the topo suggests. My partner led that pitch (so easy for me to say), but I noted that in the one section he did run it out more than 10ft on that pitch he was actually skipping potential small alien placements.
The belay that protects the 10b moves on pitch 2 is solid (pins and back up with cams in two seperate cracks) with fairly easy to get small nuts above the belay to protect those few thin moves.
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Dec 25, 2007 - 12:39pm PT
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Wow, really enjoyable TR and nice picts.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2007 - 06:41pm PT
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Steve,
> I have heard rumors that a crucial fixed piton has come out of the crux pitch. Any idea what sort of piton it was and if satisfactory pro can be arranged in its absence?
Kupandamingi answered this quite accurately. The fixed pin at the short crux on p2 came out a few years ago. As it turns out, it was not crucial, because you still get pro above your waist, in the thin crack directly above the belayer (visible in my second photo). The pin was somewhat handy for aiding through the crux, but people have still been aiding through it, by tensioning over to the crack on the right. Even when the pin was there, I think people probably wondered if there would be a nice usable pin scar there if it was removed; as it turns out the pin scar is not very helpful for the crux. At some point, someone placed a bolt left of where the pin was, but it was chopped (and not patched very well).
A leader fall from the crux could swing back and hit the belayer, but I haven't actually heard of that happpening to anyone.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Dec 28, 2007 - 07:11pm PT
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Seems like you could place small nuts over to the left before you venture to pull the short 10b section. As for the bolt, if I recall correctly, Steck gave his blessing for the addition of the bolt after the pin came out and it was still chopped.
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gomer-pyle
Big Wall climber
I am everywhere
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sweet bump...
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nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Oct 10, 2010 - 01:55am PT
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Regarding the importance of that absent fixed pin... my recollection is it was a missing bolt in the middle of the step-up/across face move, and I took a 12' pendulum from above that to below the belayer twice in a row on my first visit there. Kinda hurt my foot/leg, we called it a day, but it was hot then and I was a wuss.
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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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we did the climb yesterday and I had a bit of a problem getting across the crux 10b move. I didn't want to do it without pro cause I'm a gumby. I saw the thin crack above the belay but thot my #1 nut was too big. After reading what people posted here, maybe I was wrong. I tensioned across to the crack on the right, after falling a couple times and slaming the cliff face below the delayer. The move sure was much better (IMHO) with the added bolt in place. I suppose if there were an appropriately placed pin that could also be a solution but someone would probably pull the pin, then someone would replace it and then someone would pull it etc (pretty soon you'd have a Serenity Crack). Personally, I'd like to see the bolt reinstalled especially if the first ascensionist gave his approval (as stated in this post)
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Cassidy
Trad climber
Nova Scotia
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Oct 30, 2014 - 06:38pm PT
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Took a while, but I finally made it back to Yosemite to try out a couple o routes.
Managed to get up Half Dome and the East Buttress. Awesome.
Thanks for some of that inspiration coming from the super taco!
-Sean
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