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| Messages 1 - 12 of total 12 in this topic |
Dog
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 4, 2007 - 03:45pm PT
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Hey All,
Whats the latest idea/way of linking pitches on the E Buttress?
Using the hi tech long cord.
Planning a run this coming weekend and the problem with getting old is not remembering what ya did when you were young!
I dont recall!
Thanks,
Will
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emac
climber
New Hampshire
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Just climbed it Saturday, but were unfortunately unable to link too much because we were behind a pretty slow party. But, by recollection, you can easily link 2 & 3, 4 and the 3rd class over to the base of 5, the pitches in the middle there are fuzzy, but I think 5 and 6 would link... link the 5.9 pin scar pitch with the 5.5/6 above it. Then do the rightward traverse and "mental crux pitch" as one, and then link everything after that pitch (last two, I think) to the top. We used a 70m rope.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Seems Supertopo puts you in the gully around p 5, where the 2 topos above put you out on the buttress. We used the Supertopo. Might have to try the other way some day.
The rack on the Fish topo seems a bit heavy, though. Not much sustained at any size.
Linking - whatever. If you can go, keep going. One can set a belay just about anywhere on the route.
JLP
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wootles
climber
I've moved
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Also don't count on all the pins on the topos still being there. I seem to remember several were missing that were on the Supertopo topo. If the grade is near your limit take the rack recommended.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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That's a pretty cool topo! Well done. Does anyone know of the different programs used to make topos? Is there a drag and drop type of thing out there like is used for making network diagrams, etc? Or are people doing their symbols by hand and then using those to paste in?
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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This is how I did it a few weeks ago
Blue tcu to New #4 Camalot(no 3.5), stoppers & first 5 Tri cams
Lots or slings
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Dog
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 4, 2007 - 09:41pm PT
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.....Thanks All!
Been a while for me.
Hope the weather holds!
Be Well,
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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We didn't let it get spicy, which definitely slowed us down as it requires watchful wandering... getting pro in is problematic, and the rock is oddly slick.
But ended up belaying under and a bit left of the prominent crack just below the "nose" (right of Clint's green line) after going out on the arete to the right. Nice exposure out there, but no pro... it may be more in line with the original route.
The climbing is not hard, but you have to be careful on these two pitches.
Gary suggested that we should do it every weekend until we have it wired... (Melissa thought that would be cool and we could take on the mantel of being the "Huber Brothers of the E.Butt." which would be about our speed).
Have fun up there Will... dude I feel bummed that I haven't figured out how to climb with you all these years!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Did Will go up to do it that weekend? (Oct. 6-7?). I did it that Saturday (Oct. 6) with 5 friends (3 teams of 2). Also did it again last Saturday (Nov. 3). A couple more weekends and I may have it dialed and may have to start working that arete!
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Nov 10, 2007 - 12:04am PT
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I'd like to do the arete way. The thing is, when you do it the "regular" way the 5.8 roof that caps the "gully" is really cool. I dream of that 15 feet of rock sometimes. Spyork- we gotta go.
Zander
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| Messages 1 - 12 of total 12 in this topic |
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