Equinox FA and other History

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Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 6, 2007 - 01:43pm PT
What is the history of this awesomely beautiful line? I just tried it last Sunday for the first time. A few hangs and a small whip got me to the top on my first attempt and I'd love to redpoint it this winter.

Who found this stellar line? Was it originally an aid line? Who got the FA? I heard Croft tried to onsight solo it and backed off? Any other tidbits?

Josh
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
Nov 6, 2007 - 01:46pm PT
from the orange guide:

original name: et tu, done on aid by Dennis Johnson c.1972

FFA: TR by John Bachar, 5/78

rated in the guide F15

Quick story: When Largo and Geroge Meyers were doing that video, the Art of Leading, they wanted Kauk to do Equinox. Having never seen the route, he decides that he will need a lap on it so the next day when they film it, he will not have any problems. Me and him go out there one morning.... he literally takes off his Levi jacket, puts on a rack and starts up the thing, no warmup, no nuthin'..... He does it so easily, that when he gets to the top he asks me if he should rap and clean it.... Seeing how casual it looked, I say, "I'll just follow it", and started up. 61 hangs and 4 mutilated cuticles later I wobble onto the top. No need for me to go back..... I think he did it about 3 or 4 times for the video.
Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2007 - 01:48pm PT
Bachar... should have guessed!!! Did he ever solo that one? Bachar, you post here, got any stories? How long did you have to work it? Who got the first lead? What the hell is F15?
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Nov 6, 2007 - 01:56pm PT
didn't Yaniro get the first lead?
F10 Climber F11 Drinker

Trad climber
e350
Nov 6, 2007 - 06:25pm PT
This is out the the Red guide



Computer retard at the controls, rotate your screen if you are having trouble
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Nov 6, 2007 - 06:29pm PT
What did the F mean?
F10 Climber F11 Drinker

Trad climber
e350
Nov 6, 2007 - 06:37pm PT

F comes from the NCCS National Climbing Classification System

This system was commonly used at JT in the first several guidebooks

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Nov 6, 2007 - 06:50pm PT
It pre dates the Yosemite Decimal System.
Gerry Roach was still using it in his 80's publications.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Nov 6, 2007 - 07:22pm PT
Anyone who has not seen that classic "Art of Leading" should try to find it just to see RK casually cruising equinox when they did film it. It is inspiring. All the goofiness in the video is kind of fun too.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Nov 6, 2007 - 07:34pm PT
I've got a copy, if I can figure out how to make it go from VHS to DVD...
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
Nov 6, 2007 - 07:39pm PT
"SLAAAAAACK!!!!"
euro-brief-guy

climber
mountain view, ca
Nov 6, 2007 - 07:49pm PT
JL: "Yeah, dwindling greenbacks 5.12e......"
euro-brief-guy

climber
mountain view, ca
Nov 6, 2007 - 07:52pm PT
JL: "head left at little cheops over narrowing terrain......she's narrow!
Ammon

Big Wall climber
El Cap
Nov 6, 2007 - 07:53pm PT

"NO, THE BLACK IS IN THE CRACK"!!
euro-brief-guy

climber
mountain view, ca
Nov 6, 2007 - 07:55pm PT
RW: "The pot licker...all he needed was a couple of these!!"
euro-brief-guy

climber
mountain view, ca
Nov 6, 2007 - 07:56pm PT
RW: "You couldn't get a pool cue in here...."
matty

Big Wall climber
Valencia, CA
Nov 6, 2007 - 08:01pm PT
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Nov 6, 2007 - 08:09pm PT
Hey Josh,

Hopefully you brushed off my GHEY™ tick marks on that rig from a week or so ago. I was so gassed after working on it in sections, I forgot to brush the bottom half off.

Guess that makes me a raging hypocrite because I bitch about people leaving them.

Hopefully it didn't interfere with your onsight attempt. That thing is hard and painful.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Nov 6, 2007 - 08:14pm PT
Critical taping beta.

Crowbar use, too!
SamRoberts

climber
Bay Area
Nov 6, 2007 - 08:49pm PT
Ho Daddy- Look at that loop!
Messages 1 - 20 of total 41 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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