| Messages 1 - 45 of total 45 in this topic |
Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 6, 2007 - 10:43am PT
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What is the history of this awesomely beautiful line? I just tried it last Sunday for the first time. A few hangs and a small whip got me to the top on my first attempt and I'd love to redpoint it this winter.
Who found this stellar line? Was it originally an aid line? Who got the FA? I heard Croft tried to onsight solo it and backed off? Any other tidbits?
Josh
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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from the orange guide:
original name: et tu, done on aid by Dennis Johnson c.1972
FFA: TR by John Bachar, 5/78
rated in the guide F15
Quick story: When Largo and Geroge Meyers were doing that video, the Art of Leading, they wanted Kauk to do Equinox. Having never seen the route, he decides that he will need a lap on it so the next day when they film it, he will not have any problems. Me and him go out there one morning.... he literally takes off his Levi jacket, puts on a rack and starts up the thing, no warmup, no nuthin'..... He does it so easily, that when he gets to the top he asks me if he should rap and clean it.... Seeing how casual it looked, I say, "I'll just follow it", and started up. 61 hangs and 4 mutilated cuticles later I wobble onto the top. No need for me to go back..... I think he did it about 3 or 4 times for the video.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2007 - 10:48am PT
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Bachar... should have guessed!!! Did he ever solo that one? Bachar, you post here, got any stories? How long did you have to work it? Who got the first lead? What the hell is F15?
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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didn't Yaniro get the first lead?
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F10 Climber F11 Drinker
Trad climber
e350
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This is out the the Red guide
Computer retard at the controls, rotate your screen if you are having trouble
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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What did the F mean?
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F10 Climber F11 Drinker
Trad climber
e350
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F comes from the NCCS National Climbing Classification System
This system was commonly used at JT in the first several guidebooks
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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It pre dates the Yosemite Decimal System.
Gerry Roach was still using it in his 80's publications.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Anyone who has not seen that classic "Art of Leading" should try to find it just to see RK casually cruising equinox when they did film it. It is inspiring. All the goofiness in the video is kind of fun too.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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I've got a copy, if I can figure out how to make it go from VHS to DVD...
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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"SLAAAAAACK!!!!"
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euro-brief-guy
climber
mountain view, ca
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JL: "Yeah, dwindling greenbacks 5.12e......"
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euro-brief-guy
climber
mountain view, ca
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JL: "head left at little cheops over narrowing terrain......she's narrow!
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
El Cap
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"NO, THE BLACK IS IN THE CRACK"!!
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euro-brief-guy
climber
mountain view, ca
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RW: "The pot licker...all he needed was a couple of these!!"
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euro-brief-guy
climber
mountain view, ca
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RW: "You couldn't get a pool cue in here...."
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matty
Big Wall climber
Valencia, CA
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Hey Josh,
Hopefully you brushed off my GHEY™ tick marks on that rig from a week or so ago. I was so gassed after working on it in sections, I forgot to brush the bottom half off.
Guess that makes me a raging hypocrite because I bitch about people leaving them.
Hopefully it didn't interfere with your onsight attempt. That thing is hard and painful.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Critical taping beta.
Crowbar use, too!
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Blinny
Trad climber
NWMontana
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"This dude was bookin' up a fist crack - thrashin' like a mackarel out of water. . . by the time we got to him his hands were GONE!"
"Gone?"
"G-O-N-E!"
:-)
eKat
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SamRoberts
climber
Bay Area
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Ho Daddy- Look at that loop!
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Blinny
Trad climber
NWMontana
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. . ."what's with the loop?"
"FLIPPER COULD JUMP THROUGH THAT!"
(wrong video, though)
eKat
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cultureshock
Big Wall climber
Wall Climber Wannabe
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What about First Female Ascent?
Isn't the top especially hard for those with smaller fingers?
Did Lynn Hill ever send this back in her J-tree days?
 Luke
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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Russ wrote: Quick story: When Largo and Geroge Meyers were doing that video, the Art of Leading, they wanted Kauk to do Equinox. Having never seen the route, he decides that he will need a lap on it so the next day when they film it, he will not have any problems. Me and him go out there one morning.... he literally takes off his Levi jacket, puts on a rack and starts up the thing, no warmup, no nuthin'..... He does it so easily, that when he gets to the top he asks me if he should rap and clean it.... Seeing how casual it looked, I say, "I'll just follow it", and started up. 61 hangs and 4 mutilated cuticles later I wobble onto the top. No need for me to go back..... I think he did it about 3 or 4 times for the video.
We used to show that video to Basic Rockclimbing classes at Prescott College (prolly still do) and I can still remember gaping in awe at the ease that Kauk climbed it. I assumed that he had done it zillions of times and its even more amazing now that it was only his second lap. I seem to recall that he also had a toothpick in his mouth. Toothpicks and crowbars were common props in those videos....not to mention cornballs.
"Slack....slack on black..."
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WBraun
climber
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Hahahahaha ..... LOL To fuking funny
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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"F comes from the NCCS National Climbing Classification System. This system was commonly used at JT in the first several guidebooks."
"It pre-dates the Yosemite Decimal System."
Nope - the NCCS was an invention of climbocrats, in the late 1960s. Endorsed by the American Alpine Club, used in the American Alpine Journal, in an attempt to make U.S. grades consistent with U.I.A.A./European standards. As Steve Roper put it in the 1970 Yosemite guide, about as desirable as Esperanto, and as likely to succeed - "A fine, doomed idea." as he pithily put it.
You mean the Tahquitz Decimal System, maybe? Developed in the early 1950s?
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susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
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He's all mine ladies, all mine!
~Sooze
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Nope Anders, I was just wrong, thanks for the out tho! haha.
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Dingus Milktoast
climber
NorCal
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Thanks steelmonkey now I gotta go dig out that vid! I haven't *really* laughed out loud for a long time but that last one of Russ with the crowbar in his nose is just to f*#kin funny!
Hahahahahahaha!
You guys owned the universe once.
DMT
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Largo first showed me that crack. He said" Ho man, you gotta see this thing". We thought he was nuts but Richard Harrison knew about it too. He gave me the look and said " yep" and off we went.
Long also brought this young girl with us out there. She just started climbing and could only do 5.10c on a toprope. Anyway when we finally got there my jaw dropped.
We set up a top rope and Harrison asked the girl if she thought she could do this thing. She said, "Oh yeah, no problem". She went first and started laybacking the initial fingercrack section and actually made it past the first crux! Our eyes popped out. She actually laybacked the slightly offset finger crack start. Her name was Lynn.
Anyway, I remember we all tried it and I top roped it that day
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Nice pics James!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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The Crowbar AND the toes! somebody must envy you, sooze!
that Kevin guy has some moves, no sense of immediacey, though, ha ha.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Ahh Equinox! One of my all time favs in Josh to be sure! I've done that one many times over the years...
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Durabone
climber
Santa Cruz Mountains
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If I recall, the 11d around the other side
"Elephant Flake"? isn't half bad either.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Smooth is right. You wouldn't know how pumped he was by watching. I guess that last piece, a yellow alien, was was tipped out, and he was too pumped to stop and put in the red, so kept going.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2007 - 10:45am PT
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Nice video of a send!
I used to have that old video with Kauk on it. I don't know what happened to it though. I probably tossed it when I moved and realized I didn't have a TV or a VCR so why would I keep a video...
So, who got the first lead? Any other good stories out there?
Lynn liebacking the start.... that would be brutal!
Josh
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klinefelter
Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
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First lead was Yaniro, if I recall, though tainted by TR rehearsal.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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I tried to lead Equinox in 82 or 83. Yaniro had led it,, but I'm not sure who else-- this was before Moffatt's big trip. I made the first crux and trashed my fingers fiddling in tiny hexes on perlon. When I went back years later, I didn't even bother-- just did it on a t.r.
It would be a pretty bold solo--
I remember an awkward section near where the crack bends up high-- my hands sweat just thinking about Michael on that thing.
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
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Interesting how if anyone else had led it after toprope preview they perhaps would have received credit without the taint.
Meanwhile, issue 100 of Climbing has a classic pic of a guy with very pumped guns, the caption reads something like Tony Yaniro after a lap on Equinox, the truth? after SEVEN straight/consecutive laps on Equinox.
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scuffy b
climber
The deck above the 5
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Are you saying that Tony Yaniro gets held to a higher standard
than all other climbers?
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| Messages 1 - 45 of total 45 in this topic |
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