Figures on a Landscape

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Messages 261 - 280 of total 316 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
hashbro

Trad climber
Mental Physics........
Nov 20, 2015 - 09:40am PT
Neurologist Oliver Sacks on Memory, Plagiarism, and the Necessary Forgettings of Creativity



“Memory is dialogic and arises not only from direct experience but from the intercourse of many minds.”

https://www.brainpickings.org/2013/02/04/oliver-sacks-on-memory-and-plagiarism/
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Nov 20, 2015 - 10:12am PT
So you're saying that someone in this scenario is "intercoursed" ? :-)
Friend

climber
Nov 20, 2015 - 10:23am PT
The route, the backstory, this thread, and the article in Alpinist - all fantastic, fascinating, weird, amazing.
Steve Belford

Sport climber
Poway, CA
Nov 20, 2015 - 11:48am PT
I took the whipper in April during the weekend of the Tom Gilje fundraiser at Todd’s house. I fortunately nabbed the onsite a few years ago and decided to try it again on that trip. Everything was going great. I launched into the final moves to the large finishing holds. I was pretty stretched out with my right hand on a nice square-cut hold. I thought it was in the bag. Then I decided to re-grip the hold that I had with my right hand and at the worst possible moment my right foot slipped and I was out of there. At the end of the long sweeping fall I ended up back at my rope well below the start of the traverse. The fall was pretty clean. I did a few quick toe taps on the wall at the bottom of the arc. It was pretty exciting!
Impaler

Social climber
Oakland
Nov 20, 2015 - 12:47pm PT
Fantastic thread! It was a pleasure to follow it over the years.

Little Z, the same thing happened to me. I tried to link first two pitches, but chickened out and belayed after the traverse. Wife got up there and was like "no way I'm doing this". Took me a few minutes to convince her to finish the pitch, then we bailed. It's a pretty challenging pitch. I thought the 2nd could totally deck on the first few hard moves of the pitch no matter how good the top rope belay.

Additionally, it's not a bad idea to be comfortable not just "at the grade", but maybe on a slightly runout 5.11- thin face.

Look at that runout!
Look at that runout!
Credit: Impaler

Contemplating the traverse
Contemplating the traverse
Credit: Impaler
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Nov 20, 2015 - 07:04pm PT
What a stellar f*#king route.
And a classic thread, even with DrF's blank spaces.

My mom gave me a Galen Rowell book when I was a grom and my favorite photo was the one of Ron Kauk and partner on Figures.
I knew I had to climb it one day- purely on the artistic beauty of the stone on that pitch.
I still consider it a feather in my cap.

Credit: drljefe
dee ee

Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
Nov 22, 2015 - 01:28pm PT
Thanks to Brad Rassler for an incredibly well written article.

I loved the direction he took it and the ending was so good!
dee ee

Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
Nov 22, 2015 - 08:39pm PT
Credit: dee ee
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Lassitude 33
Nov 23, 2015 - 08:46am PT
^^^^
DEE, love that picture of you from the FA.

Brad wrote a great piece, taking the time to talk to everyone and bring it all together in a thoughtful manner.

Also, a shout out to Cam Burns' "Local Heros" profile of Todd Gordon. Now there is a truly worthy subject.
hashbro

Trad climber
Mental Physics........
Nov 23, 2015 - 09:09am PT
Brad, thanks for the inspiring, amusing and thoughtful analysis of our experience back at the Astrodomes.......

and for the complex and multifaceted exploration of human perspectives and memories (both personal and collective).




Sam E

Boulder climber
Malibu
Nov 23, 2015 - 09:09am PT
Figures
Figures
Credit: Sam E
Brandon and Naomi thanksgiving 2014
Craig Fry

Trad climber
So Cal.
Nov 23, 2015 - 09:17am PT
How about a brand new controversy????

What's the deal with the rating of 5.10b?

Who here agrees that it's only 5.10b?
If you want to sandbag, why not call it 5.9.

What are some proposed rating that would be more accurate.
Then we can have the guidebook author update the rating on it in the next edition.

I saw Lynn Hill take a huge fall on the traverse, and she was climbing 5.12 at the time.
dhayan

climber
culver city, ca
Nov 23, 2015 - 09:59am PT
I heard FOAL has been nannooked and there are convenience anchors midway through the traverse??
Craig Fry

Trad climber
So Cal.
Nov 23, 2015 - 10:08am PT
On another note:

There is a lot more bird poop on the South Astrodome than there was back in the late 70s.

I was hiking out there last winter and the extra white was very noticeable.
I definitely remember that those spots were not so obvious as they are now.

Any one else notice the difference?

Maybe some old vs. new photos are in order.

Craig Fry

Trad climber
So Cal.
Dec 5, 2015 - 06:19pm PT
Credit: Craig Fry

Finally got my copy of Alpinist 52

I was hoping to get one in the mail
but I gave up and picked up a copy at the local magazine rack

Great stuff
Hope the debate will continue

No comment on the rating????
Here's my 2 cents, 5.10A
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Canada
Dec 5, 2015 - 06:33pm PT
That's an interesting grade, Craig ! Maybe the rest of us did OK at Joshua Tree 5.10 after all...

Figures is a great and noble route.
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Dec 5, 2015 - 06:44pm PT
I thought 10b was a good rating for the climb when I last
did it before my knee surgery.
Maybe it's harder now after all the ascents and traffic.
Ojai Alex

Trad climber
Alex Bury
Dec 5, 2015 - 06:48pm PT
I heard FOAL has been nannooked and there are convenience anchors midway through the traverse??

Dude, those anchors are for practice aid climbing. Ok?
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Dec 5, 2015 - 06:50pm PT
^^^^^

LOLOL
Craig Fry

Trad climber
So Cal.
Dec 6, 2015 - 09:47am PT
According to the Article in Alpinist 52
and from further investigations on the subject matter...

Dave Evans remembers he wasn't there the first day, he never climbed with Spencer on the route. There were some bolts already placed when he started the route.

Craig Fry remembers it was just Spencer and him on the first day. He saw the route from SAS, he took Spencer out there to start the route, they put in the first bolts.

Spencer remembers Craig telling him about the route, he remembers going out to start the route with Craig, they put in the first bolts. Spencer does not remember Randy's proclamation that no bolts could be placed on aid, which would certainly be memorable.

Randy remembers going out the first day with Spencer, Craig and Dave.
He remembers putting in some bolts, and remembers he put in more bolts than Craig or Dave (the 5th bolt and 2 at the hanging belay=3) so he was more invested in the route than anyone else, so he could finish the route with just Dave.

Any Questions?
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