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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Nov 18, 2015 - 11:07am PT
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Definitely fodder for discussions ;-) Supertopo gets an "honorable" mention.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
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Nov 18, 2015 - 11:11am PT
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Five15: great story. Damn.
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brotherbbock
Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
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Nov 18, 2015 - 12:23pm PT
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Good memories from that day Chiloe!
I had no hair!
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Nov 19, 2015 - 02:29pm PT
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Grand Theft Avocado? Ohh, a story!
Dr. F's story about Figures sounds pretty darn believable--I mean, I know I'd remember putting in that first bolt!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Nov 20, 2015 - 10:12am PT
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So you're saying that someone in this scenario is "intercoursed" ? :-)
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Friend
climber
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Nov 20, 2015 - 10:23am PT
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The route, the backstory, this thread, and the article in Alpinist - all fantastic, fascinating, weird, amazing.
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Steve Belford
Sport climber
Poway, CA
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Nov 20, 2015 - 11:48am PT
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I took the whipper in April during the weekend of the Tom Gilje fundraiser at Todd’s house. I fortunately nabbed the onsite a few years ago and decided to try it again on that trip. Everything was going great. I launched into the final moves to the large finishing holds. I was pretty stretched out with my right hand on a nice square-cut hold. I thought it was in the bag. Then I decided to re-grip the hold that I had with my right hand and at the worst possible moment my right foot slipped and I was out of there. At the end of the long sweeping fall I ended up back at my rope well below the start of the traverse. The fall was pretty clean. I did a few quick toe taps on the wall at the bottom of the arc. It was pretty exciting!
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Impaler
Social climber
Oakland
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Nov 20, 2015 - 12:47pm PT
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Fantastic thread! It was a pleasure to follow it over the years.
Little Z, the same thing happened to me. I tried to link first two pitches, but chickened out and belayed after the traverse. Wife got up there and was like "no way I'm doing this". Took me a few minutes to convince her to finish the pitch, then we bailed. It's a pretty challenging pitch. I thought the 2nd could totally deck on the first few hard moves of the pitch no matter how good the top rope belay.
Additionally, it's not a bad idea to be comfortable not just "at the grade", but maybe on a slightly runout 5.11- thin face.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Nov 20, 2015 - 07:04pm PT
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What a stellar f*#king route.
And a classic thread, even with DrF's blank spaces.
My mom gave me a Galen Rowell book when I was a grom and my favorite photo was the one of Ron Kauk and partner on Figures.
I knew I had to climb it one day- purely on the artistic beauty of the stone on that pitch.
I still consider it a feather in my cap.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Nov 22, 2015 - 01:28pm PT
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Thanks to Brad Rassler for an incredibly well written article.
I loved the direction he took it and the ending was so good!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Nov 22, 2015 - 08:39pm PT
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Nov 23, 2015 - 08:46am PT
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^^^^
DEE, love that picture of you from the FA.
Brad wrote a great piece, taking the time to talk to everyone and bring it all together in a thoughtful manner.
Also, a shout out to Cam Burns' "Local Heros" profile of Todd Gordon. Now there is a truly worthy subject.
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hashbro
Trad climber
Mental Physics........
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Nov 23, 2015 - 09:09am PT
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Brad, thanks for the inspiring, amusing and thoughtful analysis of our experience back at the Astrodomes.......
and for the complex and multifaceted exploration of human perspectives and memories (both personal and collective).
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Nov 23, 2015 - 09:09am PT
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Brandon and Naomi thanksgiving 2014
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Nov 23, 2015 - 09:17am PT
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How about a brand new controversy????
What's the deal with the rating of 5.10b?
Who here agrees that it's only 5.10b?
If you want to sandbag, why not call it 5.9.
What are some proposed rating that would be more accurate.
Then we can have the guidebook author update the rating on it in the next edition.
I saw Lynn Hill take a huge fall on the traverse, and she was climbing 5.12 at the time.
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dhayan
climber
culver city, ca
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Nov 23, 2015 - 09:59am PT
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I heard FOAL has been nannooked and there are convenience anchors midway through the traverse??
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Nov 23, 2015 - 10:08am PT
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On another note:
There is a lot more bird poop on the South Astrodome than there was back in the late 70s.
I was hiking out there last winter and the extra white was very noticeable.
I definitely remember that those spots were not so obvious as they are now.
Any one else notice the difference?
Maybe some old vs. new photos are in order.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Finally got my copy of Alpinist 52
I was hoping to get one in the mail
but I gave up and picked up a copy at the local magazine rack
Great stuff
Hope the debate will continue
No comment on the rating????
Here's my 2 cents, 5.10A
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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According to the Article in Alpinist 52
and from further investigations on the subject matter...
Dave Evans remembers he wasn't there the first day, he never climbed with Spencer on the route. There were some bolts already placed when he started the route.
Craig Fry remembers it was just Spencer and him on the first day. He saw the route from SAS, he took Spencer out there to start the route, they put in the first bolts.
Spencer remembers Craig telling him about the route, he remembers going out to start the route with Craig, they put in the first bolts. Spencer does not remember Randy's proclamation that no bolts could be placed on aid, which would certainly be memorable.
Randy remembers going out the first day with Spencer, Craig and Dave.
He remembers putting in some bolts, and remembers he put in more bolts than Craig or Dave (the 5th bolt and 2 at the hanging belay=3) so he was more invested in the route than anyone else, so he could finish the route with just Dave.
Any Questions?
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