henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 10, 2011 - 01:01pm PT
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There's a story in the new Josh Classics book about the FA of Crime of the Century (it's been told on the Taco as well). The particulars escape me, but it involves absent partners, poaching of a route, all the same sordid nonsense. At the end, the guy who was left out (Yaniro I believe) was apologized to. His response was along the lines of , "It's just a route, and you guys are my bros. Lets go climbing."
As one of the parties involved I do know a few details.
Ricky (Rockamazo), KP, and myself originally found the route and unsuccessfully tried it a couple of times in super cold weather. KP and I then went back without Rick, unfortunately once again in freezing conditions. Problem was, Tony saw us on it from a distance - later asking us what it was. We replied an unfinished FA. I guess Tony then showed the line to Nick and Mike, who snaked it from Tony. All this while we, the original party still intended to come back to it. So the route was snaked from a snake trying to snake it from snakes that were trying to snake it from Ricky. Does it get much better than that? I mean, one just can't help but laugh at that sequence. If anybody was left out it wan't Tony, it was us. A few times removed - how hilarious.
Who cares? Seriously. Who cares?
Wait... I could have been famous if not for those guys. They stole my route and my glory. None of those guys would have ever become anybody if not for us.
Who cares other than as a historical footnote maybe. And even then. I don't have access to the mentioned story in the book, but I think the fact that we (RA, KP, DH) found the route before Tony is little known. So it's probably not even in the story. If so I've potentially been double ripped off. Not only is my name not on the FA, but it likely isn't even mentioned in the historical recountings. Now I'm really angry. NOT.
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Dr. F.
climber
So Cal
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Feb 10, 2011 - 01:06pm PT
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"Crime of the Century" does not have a loving thread devoted to it
and who said anything about it making you more or less famous
But I'm glad you shared the story
Thats what this is all about, story telling
So Thanks
How are we going to keep this thread going, without more stories
have you ever thought of that?
or would it make people more happy to stop,
and we can all just be mind slaves to guidebook author's interpretations
and as a footnote, if you have any interpretations from my guidebook that need revision, please let me know
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 10, 2011 - 02:45pm PT
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I believe there was a pretty clear famous implication a few posts back. But whatever, I should have refrained.
Most people probably have little interest in how the FA controversy finally ends up playing out. I doubt most people even want to take sides at all. But if it is felt that it still needs to be pursued, then continue.
I usually refrain from commenting on the subject because I don't have a horse in the race. I'll adhere to that again in the future and not let the thread going negative be bothersome. Right or wrong, it starts to sound harsh after a while.
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Dr. F.
climber
So Cal
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Feb 10, 2011 - 03:40pm PT
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I do not know what the F you are talking about?
The Thread name is "Figures on a Landscape"
The discussion is "Figures on a Landscape"
do you think I made any of it up????
ask Randy
we have a rich history, that is so nice to be documented thoroughly
or do like the revisionist history better?
not me
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Dr. F.
climber
So Cal
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Feb 10, 2011 - 03:41pm PT
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Henny
talking about Rubidoux sounds harsh to you
lighten up man
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 10, 2011 - 06:06pm PT
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Thank you, Craig, for the Yabo story, and Henny, for the snake story. Good reading!
Aren't these things supposed to be resolved by a bolt-out at dawn, each armed with a 1/4" Rawl drill?
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coz
Social climber
California
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Feb 10, 2011 - 07:15pm PT
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Wow!!!
Just read most of this thread, I know exciting life.
Visionary, if you couldn't see that line you need glasses.
I thought it was a great two pitch route, pretty easy except for the bottom, getting to the second bolt, a little heads up, but 10a, or Eldo 5.9 seems like a better rating to me. No way it's 10c, go do the BY, that's 10c. (kidding)
Maybe one of the best routes in JT, but the FA party should never make such a claim, really.
The Gunslinger is a four pitch route about fifty feet left of Figures, it's a great ride and has a couple two or three pitches of 12a. It's a fun one as well, and doesn't get much traffic.
CF, sorry too hear you had such a great route snaked from you, it's not climbing it's a friends word. I've stole a route or two and have had them, stolen from me, by friends and always felt a little let down, I feel your pain, sounds like your brothers are trying to make amends.
Anyway, great job, great climb, and truly a classic of all times.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Feb 10, 2011 - 08:08pm PT
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Y'all "visionaries" are all worked up about a pretty mediocre route actually.
It is always freezing cold there, the thing never sees the sun.
It has a pretty real choss factor, holds break off a lot.
It has no natural line, it is the opposite of "the line which follows the drop of water from the summit" idea.
It is not difficult. In fact it is over graded.
Some much better routes out that way are Black President, Yardyhoo and Away, Caught Outside on a Big Set, Big Brown Eye, Raging Bull Dike, Middle Age Crazy, etc...
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Feb 10, 2011 - 08:16pm PT
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Ksolem, wow, you really know what you're talking about!
And I'm sooo much better than you!!
Wow.
Great thread! Thanks for the "goods"!
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 10, 2011 - 08:27pm PT
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More pictures dang it!
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Nick
climber
portland, Oregon
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Feb 10, 2011 - 08:33pm PT
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Ssssssssssssssssssssssss!
Figures is a great route Craig, I appreciate your vision.
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lucander
Trad climber
New England
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Feb 10, 2011 - 08:35pm PT
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Ksolem is an odd fellow. Next time I post a High E thread, he'll write that the route wanders, is terribly easy, and ponder why anyone would have a good time on it.
Then, he'll say how much better Graveyard Shift, Fat City, and Yellow Wall are - just to let us know that he climbed them.
Figures on a Landscape - worth basing a trip across the continent on. Nuff said.
D. Lucander
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Feb 10, 2011 - 08:42pm PT
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THis is the thread that just keeps on giving. Thanks to murf for going to the clipboard and keeping score for us.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Feb 10, 2011 - 08:53pm PT
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Good grief! Doesn't anyone here have a sense of humor anymore?
Christ Almighty you are a bunch of up tight geezers ;-)
(But you know I'm right)
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Feb 10, 2011 - 08:56pm PT
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By the way, Lucander, I love High E. And one of my fondest memories lies up there.
It was a few days after my wedding, I was sitting under the overhang with Julie Lazar in a light drizzle. We were waiting for the rain to let up, when up comes Fritz Wiessner.
"Isn't this a fine day for a climb!" he says to us as he passes by and solos on up the last pitch.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 10, 2011 - 09:00pm PT
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There ain't too many 5.7's like High E on the left coast.
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Rudder
Trad climber
Long Beach, CA
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Feb 10, 2011 - 09:06pm PT
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pretty easy except for the bottom, getting to the second bolt
That's what I remember, the climbing between the first and second bolt takes some focus.
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coz
Social climber
California
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Feb 10, 2011 - 09:09pm PT
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Don't try to joke around here buddy, I do it all the time and people get all worked up.
I did Figure my first trip to JT with the gambler I think, wasn't a big deal, wasn't that cool and visionary, gag me, who wouldn't put up that flaking thing if they saw it first.
if you had any vision you wouldn't climb in JT.
But to hear all the spewage here, makes you wonder if we're talking about Cerro Torre.
NOTE, KIDDING!
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 10, 2011 - 09:21pm PT
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Sense of humor?
Joking around?
Strictly forbidden.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Feb 10, 2011 - 10:12pm PT
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