I first did that route before the belay was moved up. I led the first pitch. My partner was a 6'5" guy who weighed correspondingly. Even though he was solid at the grade, I talked him into letting me lead the second pitch, too, because the thought of him possibly taking a factor 2 fall onto the belay was too terrifying!
Yay Todd! It would have been hard to believe if you hadn't. But is still suprises me how many haven't. Such a great climb and almost guaranteed to be empty when you show at the base. some of the best granite quality in the park, Bonzai like pines and the quiet. And the best view when you top out.
Thanks for the bump on the fabulous thread, a real entertaining time suck! The removal of Craig's posts really makes for some gaps, but there are just so many stories and remembrances here that it is still a fascinating read, and the interpersonal toll is evident even without Dr. F's posts.
I liked all the spontaneous confessions of misdeeds too, I think to have climbed a long time ensures you've done something you're less than proud of. Reminds me of the scene in Eastwood's "Unforgiven" when the young guy tentatively declares to the old man that the man he'd killed had it coming, and Clint responds in a tired voice, "We all got it coming kid."
The removal of Craig's posts really makes for some gaps, but there are just so many stories and remembrances here that it is still a fascinating read, and the interpersonal toll is evident even without Dr. F's posts.
True enough but it was Dr. F's entrance on page 3 that really brought out feelings and ignited the thread, not just with his viewpoint but the others he drew in.
IFO did not know about that history but it was fascinating to see it come out, and learn something about the personalities too.
Now starting on page 3 there are many invisible gaps, you have to read other posts to guess at what's been erased.
I must agree that is unfortunate that Craig's comments in this thread (and some of the context) have have been lost as part of the "Dr.F" purge.
Still, this is a favorite thread -- thanks Chiloe for starting it. It is a good example of how this forum has brought out climbing history, ideas and divergent viewpoints in ways not previously possible.