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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2007 - 11:12am PT
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Steelmnky,
Thanks for the additional pics. Whenever I see pics of a climb I've done, My pics or others, it brings it all back.
Handsandwich,
It's funny, wherever you are in the canyon you're always looking over at something else to climb. When I was on Wotan's I looked over at Angels Gate and really wanted to be over there. I'd like to do Isis too. It seems like you could establish a camp back in there and then over a few days do Cheops, Isis, Budda, Manu, Shiva and a few others. Good times to be had.
Zander
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Floridaputz
Trad climber
Oakland Park Florida
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Nov 14, 2007 - 12:16pm PT
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Zander & Steelmonkey, I thought you guys might find these Original Topo's from the S Rim back country office interesting. I used these on my trip in 1982. Notice the rack suggestions of 1 set of "Hexes" with X-tra 9,10,11.
It kinda makes you appreciate the Super Topo's
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2007 - 08:44pm PT
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Floridaputz,
That topo is great! I guess the "new" crux is where the needles eye fell off. It seems like the next pitch might have been diferent as well.
I like that the last pitch used to be 5.7. I guess climbers are wimpier now.
Thanks for posting.
Zander
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Nov 14, 2007 - 09:50pm PT
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Here's the topo I drew after we did the route. The way we went was our best interpretation of the old topo we had at the time (very similar to the one above). Seemed to work out pretty well. Obviously, no more Needles Eye now.
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Festus
Mountain climber
Enron by the Sea
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Nov 14, 2007 - 09:58pm PT
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Okay, now I feel like a lazy ass. A few days after you hiked out, we hiked in here...and did nothing but lay on the beach, fish, and swill river-chilled beers. Great TR!
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2007 - 12:15am PT
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Hey Festus,
"beach, fish, and swill river-chilled beers".
That sounds like apretty good trip report to me.
Hey Steel,
I love your topos. I heard that with a three year subscription to Hot Belayer Magazine you get a full set, signed.
I put the way we went in red onto your topo. The last picture I posted shows me just about to step around into the chimney.
The new pitch four belay is at the horn which is so cool. The last pitch seems to be slowly being downgraded to 5.8. I think that's right. Burly still, though.
Hope to meet you in some offwidth someday.
Zander
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Owlman
Social climber
Montucky
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Nov 15, 2007 - 01:47am PT
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FYI the "way steep headwall" part of the first rappell is an alternate route that starts around left of the NE arete and follows beautiful cracks to a ridge that leads to the base of the steep headwall. You crank up the headwall via splitter hands to fingers past a block (5.11) then fists to the rim. It's and awesome pitch in a wild setting! Carl Tobin was involved with the first ascent...called it the "sky crack", or something like that. He and I did the second ascent in 27 hrs round trip from the S. Kaibab trailhead in like AUG '96 or '97. He went back the next week and did it in 23 hrs? Three ascents in 3 weeks.
Typical Carl.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Nov 15, 2007 - 08:43am PT
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Thanks for the compliment and the updates Zander. That topo is (oh my god!) 11 years old already, so it needs some work (still haven't removed the Needles Eye). I haven't been back since all that fell off. I think a lot of folks climb up the way you did . The topo that was in Rock and Ice a few years back indicated that was the way to go.
The partner I climbed Zoro with was down there a couple of years ago and did an 18 hour round trip climb of the Temple from the South Rim. That's movin' pretty quick. I think the record is like 15 hours and change or better. Anyone know?
Owlman - thanks for the info. Sounds pretty cool. That's a big pile of work to head down there three times in such a short span.
Incidentally, anyone who hasn't climbed Mount Hayden off the North Rim should give that a go. Incredible summit in an incredible location. Sort of a pain to get to, but worth it. A good late summer target.
From Point Imperial...
Buddy on the summit...
Hey Floridaputz - what route is that in your picture? Southwest Face? Inquiring minds want to know. The crack system in that one picture looks like a lotta fun.
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Floridaputz
Trad climber
Oakland Park Florida
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Nov 15, 2007 - 11:58am PT
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SteelMonkey, I think you are asking about pic #1 in my first post. That is the East Face of O'neill Butte. This is on the Kiabab trail. a one pitch climb. I called it 5.8 back then (25 years ago) but who knows. That was before sticky rubber climbing shoes. I lived on S Rim in 82' so what to do but climb choss ! That topo of Zoro is fantastic. Brother you have some talent.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Nov 22, 2007 - 12:24pm PT
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Greg:
"Chaz Langelier and I head to the Grand Canyon to do a 1 day push on Zoroaster Temple. Inspired by Buzz Burrel, Bill Wright and other, we set out to see how fast we could pull it off car-car. With minimal gear (although still plenty for a completely safe climb) we left the S. Rim of the GC heading down the Kaibab Trail to Phantom Ranch. Then, climbed back up nearly 4300 feet and started the 5 pitch climb (we ran 1-2 and 3-4 together for a total of 3 pitches) and tagged the summit in 6 hours and 41 minutes. Then, nearly out of water, we took off back to the ranch and back out the Kaibab. The adventured covered some 30 miles, 10kft of gain, and 10 kft of loss. Our total time was just over 14 hours."
From Jared's website: www.door5.com.
-Brian in SLC
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gomer-pyle
Big Wall climber
I am everywhere
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sweet bump...
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bob
climber
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Tooting the horn, but we were real psyched to never have to do this again: Brahma/Zoroaster from Kaibab car to car with a three hour nap = just under 22 hrs. NEVER AGAIN like that.
Bob J.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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What a cool TR.
You guys must have had a ball....
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuq, NM
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Fixed ropes on the approaches ?
Wow, seems somewhat contrary to the whole Cnyn experience.
They certainly didn't use to be there. And from my memory,
I can see absolutely no reason for leaving strands of perlon on the approach to Zoro. OK, so you might have to walk a bit further to make the breaks or climb something harder....
Other recommended summits:
Zoro - South Face, can't say how it compares to the North Face but it has one rather wild pitch and a really cool first pitch that's very intimidating but goes rather easy.
That rappel route of Tobin's looks awesome !
Buddha - 2 or 3 great options and lots of amazing looking new route potential. SW corner can probably be 3rd classed without too much trouble. Tricky boulder problem to start, not much after that, although we did do a pitch of 9/10 hand crack but the same pitch was easily walked around by half our party. We just wanted to use the damn rack we hauled all the way in there.
Approach is comprable to Zoro but probably a bit longer. But the Redwall break is just a scree trudge.
Hayden - awesome summit. Pegasus (NFace) is an awesome climb if you're comfortable in the 10+/11 range on Coconino...
Vishnu - technical climbing pretty minimal (one or two pitches, one rappel, depending on side you approach from). George Bain has solo'd it in a day from the river via the E Face. Another spectacular summit. Has all the normal issues with North Rim approaches (bush thrushing...)
Actually, have to say I haven't met a GC summit I didn't like. Many of them have amazing "walk ups" that appear at the last minute. Some of them you just trudge up but the views more than make up for it. Some of them you scare the piss out of yourself either 3rd classing when you shouldn't or 3rd classing because you have to.
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noshoesnoshirt
climber
dangling off a wind turbine in a town near you
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May 28, 2009 - 09:52pm PT
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unbelievably beautiful
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
North of the Owyhees
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May 28, 2009 - 09:55pm PT
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Canyon choss is cool. Great trip, guys.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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May 28, 2009 - 10:08pm PT
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Gezzzzzz. Incredible TR! One of the best along with Mike Grahams' of Tahquitz. Youza ! Was the approach actually 6 hours ? lynnie
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Bob and Zander,
I just read this for the fist time and: wow! nice job and report. Thanks and a bump.
Darwin
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