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Aya K
Trad climber
New York
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Sep 26, 2007 - 06:49am PT
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No? what about, say, pulling into Friday Harbor on San Juan Island on the ferry? Total movie set to me. Or maybe I shouldn't say that because it's admitting that I saw Free Willy 3 and that movie with Nicole Kidman as a witch in New England...
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Derek
climber
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Sep 26, 2007 - 10:34am PT
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I've been fortunate enough to climb all over this country, and lots abroad as well. Poko is a world class cliff, for sure.
When you catch a 70 degree, crisp fall day, it doesn't get much better. It's unlikely to be overrun anytime soon, either. Entry level is, with a very small handful of exceptions, sandbagged hard 5.9. And you'll run out of options at that grade in a hurry as well. Poko really shines in the .10 to .11+/.12- range. Bring your RPs. All of them.
Nice job on Dueteronomy, Leslie. That's one of my favorites! 10+ for the first pitch, huh? That seems a bit "optimistic", even by Poko standards! Did you do the 2nd pitch? As you may have noticed, Mesch is a shameless and skilled sandbagger!
-D
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ADK
climber
truckee
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Sep 26, 2007 - 01:03pm PT
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No way. Theres nothing worthy in the dacks. Nothing at all. Proceed to NH. Do not pass go.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Sep 26, 2007 - 01:24pm PT
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Proceed to NH. Do not pass go.
Rumney, proceed straight there. It's an undiscovered gem.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Sep 26, 2007 - 01:49pm PT
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Nice. This thread has moved me to go pull out my old 1983 Mellor guide and do some looking back. routes like Gamesmanship, Cirrhosis, Paralysis, The Sting and of course the amazing Summer Solstice. I'm thinkin' Poco might be an add on to the next Gunks pilgramage...
Funny thing, back when I climbed there a fair amount (late 70's - mid 80's) everyone called it the "Ad's." Now it's the "Dack's"? I ask you, which sounds better, and whatz up with that?
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mack
Trad climber
vermont
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2007 - 03:38pm PT
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Marks pictures as promised.
Derek...you're right about Mesch being a shamless sandbagger!
Tweaking required...sorry folks
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Sep 26, 2007 - 03:38pm PT
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Poko is a bit out of the way, but that doesn't mean the local lads haven't been hard at work...
Since the Mellor guide, there are 39 new routes on the main face. Althogether, Poko now has 43 5.9's, 71 5.10's, 64 5.11's, 20 5.12's, and a 5.13. Some of these involve crackless faces protected with bolts, but generally there are no bolts where passive gear (including very small passive gear) can be used.
There is a new guidebook in the works (to Adirondack climbing generally, not just Poko) that looks like it will be fantastic. Check out the guidebook webpage at http://www.adirondackrock.com/.
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MtnZealot
Trad climber
Washington, DC
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Sep 26, 2007 - 05:17pm PT
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Any love for Wallface? I just did the diagonal, which was sweet. Can anyone recommend a 5.10 there?
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Dakman
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Sep 26, 2007 - 06:11pm PT
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And, as Leslie just learned this weekend, Mark's climbing nickname was "Hamish" in tribute to the famous Brit gear guy Hamish Macinnes. Nice story, Leslie. I only wish I could have joined you two on Sunday but Cam wanted to do the lake, as you can imagine.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Sep 26, 2007 - 07:38pm PT
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Wallface is a complex cliff. When I was there, the hardest routes were 5.9's and IMO the best of the lot was called No Man's a Pilot.. 5.8+ early 80's grade. I moved to California in 1984, and although I get back to the Gunks every so often, I have not seen the Ad's since then. Must change that....
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mack
Trad climber
vermont
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2007 - 09:11pm PT
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Hey Drew,
Thanks for checking in. Really nice to meet you and your too cute son. The pics from Catharsis are pending.
more pics. This is some seriously stiff (by my standards) face climbing...enjoy.
Ragtime
we scared ourselves so bad on ragtime we decided to we would go top rope Bushido
If anyone is still interested, there are more pics from last w/e but more fun at Moss cliff this coming w/e - if the weather holds.
thanks for looking,
Mack
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Sep 27, 2007 - 12:43am PT
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Hey Leslie,
Nice photos. I see the leaves are just starting to turn. No sign of colour yet out here in Yosemite, though we might see some when we head up to Tuolomne the next few days.
Why doncha come to Yosemite and we'll climb some BIG walls!
Aid, of course. Man, Poke-O must have the stiffest grading in the country, right up there with Seneca Rocks.
Cheers,
Petie
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Sep 27, 2007 - 02:59am PT
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Hey Mack, when ya comin' out this way ta claim yer winnin's?
Poko is so-cool!
-BusyJello
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Sep 27, 2007 - 08:55am PT
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If anyone is still interested, there are more pics from last w/e but more fun at Moss cliff this coming w/e - if the weather holds.
I'm still interested. This has been a fun TR to follow, keep 'em coming. The forecast looks fair.
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Sep 27, 2007 - 09:34am PT
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OK Leslie, now you're making me jealous. Nice pics, keep 'em coming.
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mack
Trad climber
vermont
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2007 - 09:59am PT
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Catharsis 5.6 slab climbing (4 pitches) - as promised. I led it, bringing up Cameron (on his first muti-pitch climb) Mark Meschinelli free soloed the climb and was the official photographer.
Cam (9 yrs old) and Drew.
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mack
Trad climber
vermont
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2007 - 10:10am PT
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Jeff,
I'm still aiming at March. There have been some complications, the details of which I won't bore everyone with, which make it impossible, for me, to pin down an exact date right now.
Petie,
I hope your having fun out there. Big walls aren't in my immediate future. I am planning on doing some aid climbing this Fall. I read John Long's new book on anchors and he suggested aiding on gear to get a real feel of how well it has been placed. Sounded like a great idea.
Mack
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 27, 2007 - 11:07am PT
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Great TR! Any worthy aid testpieces on Poko at this point in time? A good friend of mine got his start at slingwork there.
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mack
Trad climber
vermont
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2007 - 12:26pm PT
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Steve,
Yes there are several aid routes. I don't have my book here (at work). If you don't get a reply from someone more informed than me , I'll get back to you later.
Mack
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Sep 27, 2007 - 01:36pm PT
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Great thread folks!
Keep 'em coming.
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