Discussion Topic |
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mack
Trad climber
vermont
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 25, 2007 - 05:24pm PT
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I've been climbing a lot over in NY the last couple of years. Poko is a gold mine of incredible routes. The grades are (by most folks standards) a little underrated or maybe you just have to get to know the rock. Most routes are in the 5.9 and up range.
A trip to Poko starts with a ferry ride across the Pond (Lake Champlain)
A view of the cliff from Rt 9 (North)
Deuteronomy is dead center in this pic (see the slashes rising L to R)
The first pitch of Deuteronomy 5.8
The 2nd pitch of Deuteronomy 5.10+
Mark, leading very carefully.
Then we hooked up with Mark's buddy Drew and Drew's 9yr old son and went over to the slabs and climbed the classic Catharsis
(pictures to follow)
Day 2
The Sting 5.8
Ragtime 5.10+
Ragtime 5.10+ (be very wary of anything with a + after the grade)
Back to the truck safe and sound....Cheers!
Mark has some great pics he promises to get to me soon....so stay tuned.
Thanks for looking,
Mack
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Sep 25, 2007 - 05:37pm PT
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Now, we don't see a TR featuring that cliff every day.
Good going!
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mack
Trad climber
vermont
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 25, 2007 - 05:41pm PT
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Tarbuster,
Poko is so far off the beaten track, it sees very little climbing plus there really isn't much easy/moderate stuff. It is hard.
Mack
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Aya K
Trad climber
New York
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Sep 25, 2007 - 05:58pm PT
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Sweet!!!
Yay for poko!!
But it definitely sees climbing and ahem I put it in my TR a few days ago :)
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Sep 25, 2007 - 06:01pm PT
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OMFG! You just took me on a major flashback to the late 1970's when I spent summers in the Ad's and climbed at Poco quite a bit. Classic routes, and yes, quite hard mostly.
Thank you for a nice tr, I hope your buddy posts more pictures soon!
Kris
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pc
climber
East of Seattle
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Sep 25, 2007 - 06:11pm PT
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Nice TR thanks. Great hair! I could really use some ;)
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Sep 25, 2007 - 06:13pm PT
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Tar's right, here's a major cliff we rarely see TRs from.
I climbed Bloody Mary years ago and thought it was great, very Cathedral-like, but I didn't take any pictures. Anybody got some?
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
St. Looney
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Sep 25, 2007 - 06:14pm PT
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Another fun trip report. Thanks for the photos. Glad to see everyone had shoes this time!
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Sep 25, 2007 - 06:14pm PT
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cool, thanks for posting! I'd never seen that crag before.
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Sep 25, 2007 - 06:45pm PT
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Mack, nice TR. Hope to get there soon.
Beers on the tailgate forever!
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ADK
climber
truckee
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Sep 25, 2007 - 08:25pm PT
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Thanks for posting that.
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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Sep 25, 2007 - 08:35pm PT
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That face climbing looks scarey! Glad you had fun and thanks for posting up. Just curious, how tall is that cliff?
Michael
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AbeFrohman
Trad climber
new york, NY
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Sep 25, 2007 - 09:31pm PT
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good to see some hot NY action once in a while.
it cant always be "blablabla el clap. blablabla tuolumne. bla bla bla josh."
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Aya K
Trad climber
New York
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Sep 25, 2007 - 10:33pm PT
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Poko is about 400' tall and basically zero approach, for the man face.
Hm, now I feel like climbing there this weekend.
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 25, 2007 - 10:51pm PT
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I first when to Poko in 1978 with Kevin and Barbra Bein. We did Firing Line and another easy 11 right of that. Only been back twice since then.
Great place.
Looks like you had a great time.
Thanks for the photo.
Gunks...two weeks and counting.
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Aya K
Trad climber
New York
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Sep 25, 2007 - 11:06pm PT
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It's weird. So I mean, there are so many NYC climbers who don't even know that there's so much amazing climbing in the Dacks and who have never heard of Poke-O. Meanwhile, I feel like if I were on a road trip and I came across it, I'd be totally psyched. As psyched as I was to go to any of the awesome places I've climbed in this country. Maybe I'm biased because I climb so much in the Dacks, who knows.
It's so overlooked in this part of the country, which seems a shame, but what about the rest of the country? Has it even been heard of by you left coasters? If you were making a trip out to say hit the gunks, would you consider going there? Or would you be more likely to say, go to Whitehorse/Cathedral or Acadia or something? I guess I just have no conception of it at all. Maybe it's because there really aren't many easy routes (I think I heard that in the new guidebook they figure that most common route grade at poko is 5.11 and the most common pitch grade is 5.10+ so I guess it isn't a place for beginners. Plus it's kind of blocky and scary the way Cannon is.)
A couple of weeks ago a couple of guides from Seneca were up visiting us and their eyes were literally bugging out of their heads when they saw Poko for the first time, and they came down from a day that included Fastest Gun and Bloody Mary with perma-grins. They had NO IDEA how big and awesome the cliff was... really that it even existed.
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slobmonster
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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Sep 25, 2007 - 11:11pm PT
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You're absolutely right, Poko's a phenomenal cliff. And no one has yet mentioned the ice climbing!
As for its obscurity, this is a good thing, no?
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Aya K
Trad climber
New York
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Sep 25, 2007 - 11:25pm PT
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Sure it's a good thing.
But at the same time, you know, if it's like your home crag (and it's not, mine would be the gunks, but I get up there a lot), you kinda want the whole world to know and appreciate how awesome it is!
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Sep 25, 2007 - 11:47pm PT
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From the Poko Archives:
A leafy shot of Bloody Mary
A nicer shot of Freedom Flight
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Sep 26, 2007 - 12:27am PT
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The climbing looks awesome but the first picture of the village looks like a movie set, there is nothing like that on the west coast. Thanks for the TR
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Aya K
Trad climber
New York
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Sep 26, 2007 - 06:49am PT
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No? what about, say, pulling into Friday Harbor on San Juan Island on the ferry? Total movie set to me. Or maybe I shouldn't say that because it's admitting that I saw Free Willy 3 and that movie with Nicole Kidman as a witch in New England...
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Derek
climber
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Sep 26, 2007 - 10:34am PT
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I've been fortunate enough to climb all over this country, and lots abroad as well. Poko is a world class cliff, for sure.
When you catch a 70 degree, crisp fall day, it doesn't get much better. It's unlikely to be overrun anytime soon, either. Entry level is, with a very small handful of exceptions, sandbagged hard 5.9. And you'll run out of options at that grade in a hurry as well. Poko really shines in the .10 to .11+/.12- range. Bring your RPs. All of them.
Nice job on Dueteronomy, Leslie. That's one of my favorites! 10+ for the first pitch, huh? That seems a bit "optimistic", even by Poko standards! Did you do the 2nd pitch? As you may have noticed, Mesch is a shameless and skilled sandbagger!
-D
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ADK
climber
truckee
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Sep 26, 2007 - 01:03pm PT
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No way. Theres nothing worthy in the dacks. Nothing at all. Proceed to NH. Do not pass go.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Sep 26, 2007 - 01:24pm PT
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Proceed to NH. Do not pass go.
Rumney, proceed straight there. It's an undiscovered gem.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Sep 26, 2007 - 01:49pm PT
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Nice. This thread has moved me to go pull out my old 1983 Mellor guide and do some looking back. routes like Gamesmanship, Cirrhosis, Paralysis, The Sting and of course the amazing Summer Solstice. I'm thinkin' Poco might be an add on to the next Gunks pilgramage...
Funny thing, back when I climbed there a fair amount (late 70's - mid 80's) everyone called it the "Ad's." Now it's the "Dack's"? I ask you, which sounds better, and whatz up with that?
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mack
Trad climber
vermont
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2007 - 03:38pm PT
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Marks pictures as promised.
Derek...you're right about Mesch being a shamless sandbagger!
Tweaking required...sorry folks
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Sep 26, 2007 - 03:38pm PT
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Poko is a bit out of the way, but that doesn't mean the local lads haven't been hard at work...
Since the Mellor guide, there are 39 new routes on the main face. Althogether, Poko now has 43 5.9's, 71 5.10's, 64 5.11's, 20 5.12's, and a 5.13. Some of these involve crackless faces protected with bolts, but generally there are no bolts where passive gear (including very small passive gear) can be used.
There is a new guidebook in the works (to Adirondack climbing generally, not just Poko) that looks like it will be fantastic. Check out the guidebook webpage at http://www.adirondackrock.com/.
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MtnZealot
Trad climber
Washington, DC
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Sep 26, 2007 - 05:17pm PT
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Any love for Wallface? I just did the diagonal, which was sweet. Can anyone recommend a 5.10 there?
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Dakman
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Sep 26, 2007 - 06:11pm PT
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And, as Leslie just learned this weekend, Mark's climbing nickname was "Hamish" in tribute to the famous Brit gear guy Hamish Macinnes. Nice story, Leslie. I only wish I could have joined you two on Sunday but Cam wanted to do the lake, as you can imagine.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Sep 26, 2007 - 07:38pm PT
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Wallface is a complex cliff. When I was there, the hardest routes were 5.9's and IMO the best of the lot was called No Man's a Pilot.. 5.8+ early 80's grade. I moved to California in 1984, and although I get back to the Gunks every so often, I have not seen the Ad's since then. Must change that....
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mack
Trad climber
vermont
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2007 - 09:11pm PT
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Hey Drew,
Thanks for checking in. Really nice to meet you and your too cute son. The pics from Catharsis are pending.
more pics. This is some seriously stiff (by my standards) face climbing...enjoy.
Ragtime
we scared ourselves so bad on ragtime we decided to we would go top rope Bushido
If anyone is still interested, there are more pics from last w/e but more fun at Moss cliff this coming w/e - if the weather holds.
thanks for looking,
Mack
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Sep 27, 2007 - 12:43am PT
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Hey Leslie,
Nice photos. I see the leaves are just starting to turn. No sign of colour yet out here in Yosemite, though we might see some when we head up to Tuolomne the next few days.
Why doncha come to Yosemite and we'll climb some BIG walls!
Aid, of course. Man, Poke-O must have the stiffest grading in the country, right up there with Seneca Rocks.
Cheers,
Petie
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Sep 27, 2007 - 02:59am PT
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Hey Mack, when ya comin' out this way ta claim yer winnin's?
Poko is so-cool!
-BusyJello
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Sep 27, 2007 - 08:55am PT
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If anyone is still interested, there are more pics from last w/e but more fun at Moss cliff this coming w/e - if the weather holds.
I'm still interested. This has been a fun TR to follow, keep 'em coming. The forecast looks fair.
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Sep 27, 2007 - 09:34am PT
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OK Leslie, now you're making me jealous. Nice pics, keep 'em coming.
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mack
Trad climber
vermont
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2007 - 09:59am PT
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Catharsis 5.6 slab climbing (4 pitches) - as promised. I led it, bringing up Cameron (on his first muti-pitch climb) Mark Meschinelli free soloed the climb and was the official photographer.
Cam (9 yrs old) and Drew.
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mack
Trad climber
vermont
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2007 - 10:10am PT
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Jeff,
I'm still aiming at March. There have been some complications, the details of which I won't bore everyone with, which make it impossible, for me, to pin down an exact date right now.
Petie,
I hope your having fun out there. Big walls aren't in my immediate future. I am planning on doing some aid climbing this Fall. I read John Long's new book on anchors and he suggested aiding on gear to get a real feel of how well it has been placed. Sounded like a great idea.
Mack
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 27, 2007 - 11:07am PT
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Great TR! Any worthy aid testpieces on Poko at this point in time? A good friend of mine got his start at slingwork there.
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mack
Trad climber
vermont
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2007 - 12:26pm PT
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Steve,
Yes there are several aid routes. I don't have my book here (at work). If you don't get a reply from someone more informed than me , I'll get back to you later.
Mack
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Sep 27, 2007 - 01:36pm PT
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Great thread folks!
Keep 'em coming.
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mack
Trad climber
vermont
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2007 - 02:51pm PT
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Does anyone know why some the photos have been replaced by small boxes with an x in it?
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Sep 27, 2007 - 03:19pm PT
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Mack I think the pics that aren't showing up don't have 'img' befor and after the link inside boxes.
or the pic isn't at the link?
Nice TR though.
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ADK
climber
truckee
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Sep 27, 2007 - 03:19pm PT
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FM is a great line. Fastest gun? The sting? Poko rules.
If Im not mistaken, Jello's entry in 50 favorites is a pok-o mixed line of his.
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mack
Trad climber
vermont
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2007 - 03:49pm PT
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Bluering,
The pictures were there for awhile, then they got replaced by the box with an x in it??
Mack
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deez nuts
Trad climber
Scottsdale
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love the Dack's! any pics of fastest gun? been wanting that one for awhile
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 12, 2008 - 04:49pm PT
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Just came across this winter shot in the first issue of North American Climber, July 1975.
Don Hamilton leads in the waterfall section at Pok-Ko-Moonshine, Adirondacks,New York.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 30, 2009 - 03:29pm PT
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A little bump of Moonshine!
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adam d
climber
closer to waves than rock
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Oct 30, 2009 - 04:02pm PT
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and it's not just for summertime!
2 shots of the classic p1 of Positive Thinking
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
. . . not !
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Oct 30, 2009 - 04:21pm PT
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Thanks for throwing me some scraps - I refuse to click on the TR tab , and that's final .
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Ezra
Social climber
WA, NC, Idaho Falls
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Oct 30, 2009 - 05:18pm PT
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Great pics Y'all!
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Oct 30, 2009 - 09:29pm PT
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any pics of fastest gun? been wanting that one for awhile
Here's two from Mountain Project.
First pitch:
(Credit: Chris Duca)
Fourth (last) pitch:
(Credit: Gerry Carter)
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kevsteele
climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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Oct 30, 2009 - 11:16pm PT
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Poke-o-moonshine is awesome! Catharsis and FM were my first two multipitch climbs. Definitely remember Gamesmanship as a classic. Back in college, when none of us had cars, we used to ride our bikes from Burlington, taking the Charlotte-Essex Ferry. Brutal stuff, riding our bikes to and from with full packs on, but it was worth it.
PS - it was always the "dacks" to me and everybody at UVM circa 1990, anyway.
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mack
Trad climber
POKE-O-MOONSHINE
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2009 - 04:08pm PT
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That's quite a trip on a bicycle with a loaded pack! Talk about dedication.
Mack
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Anyone know the origin of the name Poke-O-Moonshine?
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Well, "poke" is an obsolete term for a small sack or even a pocket; a poke of moonshine is a sack of moonshine or perhaps just a bit in a flask in the pocket. I suppose that "poke of moonshine mountain" refers to a place where the stuff was regularly consumed and/or distilled.
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