Shawangunks - Cornerstone of Eastern Traditional Climbing


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Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 23, 2007 - 04:40pm PT
Long before I laid eyes on the place, Hugh Herr would fill many a lull in conversation with a grin and an enthusiastic "Steve, you will love the Gunks!" He was sooooo right. I love the Gunks!

So did the rather large (6'4") Richard Muhe, once he tagged the jug on Foops. I believe he was one of Wolfgang Gullich's cohorts.

Bob D - Don't say I never did nuthin' for ya! Harvey Arnold's excellent 1980 survey.

Gotta have a little Henry Barber, of course. FA of True Grip (5.10). I took a real hard look at this striking line and decided to get a better feel for the place first. Big roofs to finish!


East Coast US
Sep 23, 2007 - 04:54pm PT
I've been in every spot except for the roof on Mohonk Lake. That's not saying I pulled the roof on Foops totally free. I just got to the jug after pulling on a sling :) 5.10 A0.

Thanks for posting that article. I think I still have that issue of Mountain.

Social climber
St. Looney
Sep 23, 2007 - 05:00pm PT
Super cool. I see my friend Laura Chaten (now Smith) in the article. Sweet!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 25, 2007 - 11:31am PT
Also pictured (next to Bob) is David Rosenfeld, now an architect/builder here in Seattle.
The Schmutzvink

The WAY past
Sep 25, 2007 - 11:34am PT
How 'bout that shot of Spider Dan Goodwin on Short Climb with the belayer sitting on the bench...

Happy and Healthy climber
the Gunks end of the country
Sep 25, 2007 - 11:42am PT
$1.50 a day!

Annual $20!

Trad climber
Sep 25, 2007 - 11:54am PT
Not to mention the gratuitous snide comment about the use of chalk, presumably added by the editor, for the caption to the cover shot. Ah, for the days when folks thought the Gunks were insufficiently traditional . . . .
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 25, 2007 - 12:06pm PT
klk- can't find the snide chalk comment for either cover shot. I think the man's reach is the "unethical" part of his Foops experience.

Trad climber
Joshua Tree Ca
Sep 25, 2007 - 12:30pm PT
I love and miss the Gunks...

Can't wait to get back that way again...

I have told many "HARD CLIMBERS" to head there and TEST their skills on the "EASIER" rated routes... LOL!!!...

and of course...

mentioned that they MIGHT want to take some TRICAMS along for the ride...

Trad climber
Sep 25, 2007 - 12:33pm PT
steve-- i can't recall it precisely, but i believe the caption was, "Unethical? Perhaps. Impressive? Certainly," or something similar. then something about whether or not it was difficult and how that depended on the "body dates" of the climber. mountain had been running an anti-chalk debate in those years so many of us read it as a comment on his dipping. i think having a chalk bag almost dead center on the cover was considered a bit of a provocation, at least in some british circles.

Trad climber
Chatham N.H.
Sep 25, 2007 - 12:51pm PT
My first 5.9 was Never Never Land.Fresh on the heals of that we went to Mohonk and got on Ringwraith.Clueless about jamming I made it 2/3rd's or so to the worst of the butt crack and rattled in a nine hex,turned to talk to my belayer and gasp at the sight of the Mohonk Mountain House.Later sent the Ringwraith after servitude in NH.

A frigid day on Krapp's Last tape with Mel Hamel stands out....numb hands....EB's....Red Swami....all set !!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Sep 25, 2007 - 12:54pm PT
I love the 'Gunks, it is wonderful to go back and climb there whenever I get a chance... there are many changes but I think much is still a matter of personal choice. It is unfortunate in this time of impatience that climbers don't climb off the top and hike back to the Uberfall and solo down that bit of cliff above the spring's pipe. Then back out to collect the gear and get on another climb. Eating blueberries in the early summer.

Playing the game of accumulating pitch-points... add the rating of each of the pitches you did that day, 7 for a 5.7, 10 for a 5.10 (hey, no letter grades then), trying to get to 100. That was a 'Gunks game... and getting to 100 was an accomplishment, but not one compromised by rushing.

Mountain climber
Dak side
Sep 25, 2007 - 12:57pm PT
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 25, 2007 - 01:04pm PT
klk- the context is right but I have a feeling that Harvey simply watched Richard reach around the aerial moves and pulled out the gaff for the West German.

Jstan on Foops from Shawangunks Rock Climbs by Richard Dumais


Trad climber
Boston, MA
Sep 25, 2007 - 01:14pm PT
That first post contains the best photo of the Foops roof I've ever seen. Thanks so much for that!


Trad climber
Sep 25, 2007 - 03:39pm PT
Cool post.

I actually almost bought the #73 issue today...but I'm broke. So at least I got to read the article.



Trad climber
South East PA
Sep 25, 2007 - 04:20pm PT
Free Skytop !

Mountain climber
Dak side
Sep 25, 2007 - 04:36pm PT
did someone say Krapps Last Tape a Hot Henry route

being that i was busted up at skytop last weekend so yeah free skytop


Trad climber
Lee, NH
Sep 25, 2007 - 04:39pm PT
I recall Henry once joking about Steve Wunsch, who had a boulder problem he called his "Psycho simulator" as training for the FFA of Psycho in Eldorado.

"That's just crazy!" Henry remarked, but then someone reminded him that Henry himself had a "Foops Machine."

Any of you gunkies got a photo of that?

Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
Sep 26, 2007 - 01:59am PT
I like how Richie is demonstrating the world's most difficult way to do the Gill variation to the Brat.

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