Shawangunks - Cornerstone of Eastern Traditional Climbing

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 506 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2007 - 12:07pm PT
I wonder if Henry was trying to train for a free solo of Foops with his device? Getting up the thing wouldn't seem to have been a problem for a man of his abilities. Some pretty stiff routes have been done unroped at the Gunks including Kansas City and Supercrack!
bob d'antonio

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Sep 26, 2007 - 12:22pm PT
Steve...that's a really funny shot of me in that article. My time in the Gunks was a wonderful period in my life. Lot's of life long friends and great memories.

That picture of John Bragg (climber) with Russ Raffa (belayer) and Mark Robinson (onlooker) on top of Skytop is really what the Gunks are all about. I remember that day like yesterday...beautiful fall day, vibrant colors on the trees and rolling farm land to east and south.

Larry wrote: Any of you gunkies got a photo of that?

Larry...do you mean the Andrew boulder problem? I have it somewhere.




The Gunks...it's all about love.


Can't wait to get back...13 days and counting.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Sep 26, 2007 - 12:31pm PT
I meant a photo of Henry's Foops Machine. I've heard of it a few times but don't know what it was.
klk

Trad climber
cali
Sep 26, 2007 - 12:34pm PT
That's how I did the Gill variation to The Brat. It worked great-- a heel-toe to avoid all those greasy crimps. The only Gill problem I managed to do that day.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2007 - 10:59am PT
That looks to be The Gunks Wedding. Is it?
Curt

Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
Sep 28, 2007 - 12:54am PT
"...That's how I did the Gill variation to The Brat. It worked great-- a heel-toe to avoid all those greasy crimps. The only Gill problem I managed to do that day..."

Probably only because you couldn't find some way to press it out as a mantle...

Curt
Delhi Dog

Trad climber
Good Question...
Sep 28, 2007 - 01:12am PT
Steve thanks for posting, trip down memory lane for many of us seeing that cover and article!

Though the West is the Best ( slam me if you want but there you have it) there is so much of the East that remains special. From crisp fall days at the Gunks with colors radiating to the horizan to the whicked humdity that encourages the chalk to run in streams down the arms... its all good.

DD
phillip mike revis

climber
snowbird, ut
Sep 28, 2007 - 01:24am PT
the gunks kick ass
MF is the best 5.9 in america
you get sh#t for even thinking about hangdoggin fall off or go home
today i soloed little face at sky top best 5.2+ ever tonite is the nite after the full moon maybe a pilgrim's progress is next i love the gunks
i have climbed all over the north america and i come back to the gunks every summer and nyc is so close
how could you not like it americas premier trad climbing area right next door to the most famous city on earth
if you haven't climbed there you are loosing money
yo

climber
The Eye of the Snail
Sep 28, 2007 - 10:35am PT
I'm gonna need a little more background on the Gunks wedding please.

hahaha
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Sep 28, 2007 - 10:50am PT
The happy couple in that picture are Lynn Hill and Russ Raffa, who were married in the Gunks in 1989. Perhaps somebody who was there can tell more about the story?
klk

Trad climber
cali
Sep 28, 2007 - 11:14am PT
So Curt, where's The Egg pix?

I went to the Gunks on a summer weekend in the early 1980s and it was my first experience of what could only be called an urban climbing experience. I had never seen so many people packed into a climbing area. Gumbies anchored to trees on one side of the path, their ropes running across the road like slack lines to the leader's first piece, four feet off the ground, with the leader suspended helplessly twenty feet out on a 5.2. fixed in place by fear and rope drag as the rest of us casually walked over and under the belay rope; people fighting like junkyard dogs over the prime parking spaces or any space at all; huge swarms of outing groups huddled around their lost leader, trying to make sense out of the guidebook; teams of women climbers in flat-tops and dog collars; and the occasional wasp's nest to keep things fun. I was actually quite horrified. In retrospect, I appreciate the place a bit more, for the ability of the locals and the landowners to keep it open and usable under an incredible amount of pressure. Most of all, I'd really like to go back on a cool off-day for miles of fun 5.2 + soloing.
tinman

Trad climber
Sep 28, 2007 - 11:41am PT
"The happy couple in that picture are Lynn Hill and Russ Raffa, who were married in the Gunks in 1989. Perhaps somebody who was there can tell more about the story?"

Didn't Bob D take this photo? He should be able to supply all the info necessary.
bob d'antonio

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Sep 28, 2007 - 12:21pm PT
I was a usher in the wedding. Nice wedding and great times.

The photo is from my camera and I set the lighting and angle. I think Russ Clune took the shot.

I am on the far right next to Jim McCarthy (preacher). With Mark Robinson and his wife and a guy who name slip from my mind.

I am going to the Gunks in a little more than a week for a reunion with a most of the folks (and more) in the photo.

As we all know Russ and Lynn parted ways and Russ is married to a wonderful lady (Holly) and has a 2-year boy.

I also have a photo of Russ Clune and Chris Bonnington who were out at the cliff the same day as the shoot.

Really looking forward to it.

Curt

Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
Sep 29, 2007 - 12:24pm PT
k.l.k. Egg pix for you...



...from 1981, I think.

Curt
bob d'antonio

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Sep 29, 2007 - 12:30pm PT
Nice shorts Curt!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2007 - 03:19pm PT
Most dramatic shot of a 5.2+ ever! Nice! Some more air for ya. From Richard DuMais' exquisite Shawangunk Rock Climbing 1985. All of the photos from the initial posted article appear in color within!



Jimmy Surette on Swing Time.



Just wouldn't be a Gunks thread without my main man Fritz. Rock solid....
TwistedCrank

climber
Caution: Filling may be hot.
Sep 29, 2007 - 03:59pm PT
Nice slippers, Fritz!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2007 - 05:02pm PT
Original School, all the way!
tradcragrat

Trad climber
Sep 29, 2007 - 06:36pm PT
Ha! the dangler used to be rated 5.8?!
bob d'antonio

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Sep 29, 2007 - 07:42pm PT
Steve...that is Jeff Achey on Fat City and Bill Shanaman on Three Pines Direct.
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