Museum climbs?

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 461 - 480 of total 485 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
jstan

climber
Oct 5, 2007 - 09:21pm PT
Hey, I only said that for a political comment.

Sorry,
goatboy smellz

climber
colorado
Oct 5, 2007 - 10:03pm PT
meanwhile out in the barn...



This thread reminds me of that story in the movie Smoke.

"PAUL
I suppose it all goes back to Queen Elizabeth.

AUGGIE
The Queen of England?

PAUL
Not Elizabeth the Second, Elizabeth the First.
(Pause)
Did you ever hear of Sir Walter Raleigh?

TOMMY
Sure. He's the guy who threw his cloak down
over the puddle.

PAUL
That's the man. Well, Raleigh was the person
who introduced tobacco in England, and since he
was a favorite of the Queen's -- Queen Bess, he
used to call her -- smoking caught on as a
fashion at court. I'm sure Old Bess must have
shared a stogie or two with Sir Walter. Once,
he made a bet with her that he could measure
the weight of smoke.

DENNIS
You mean, weigh smoke?

PAUL
Exactly. Weigh smoke.

TOMMY
You can't do that. It's like weighing air.

PAUL
I admit it's strange. Almost like weighing
some one's soul. But Sir Walter was a clever
guy. First, he took an unsmoked cigar and put
it on a balance and weighed it. Then he lit up
and smoked the cigar, carefully tapping the
ashes into the balance pan. When he was
finished, he put the butt into the pan along
with the ashes and weighed what was there.
Then he subtracted that number from the
original weight of the unsmoked cigar. The
difference was the weight of the smoke.

TOMMY
Not bad. That's the kind of guy we need to take
over the Mets.

PAUL
Oh, he was smart, all right. But not so smart
that he didn't wind up having his head chopped
off twenty years later.
(Pause)
But that's another story.

AUGGIE
(Handing PAUL his change and putting
cigar tins and lighter in a paper bag)
Take care of yourself now, and don't do
anything I wouldn't do.

PAUL
(Smiling)
I wouldn't think of it."


Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Oct 6, 2007 - 03:41am PT
Do hammer and edge ever read their own posts?

Bob d', point taken, though Mimi has been known to voice, or otherwise contribute an opinion, on bolt issues.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Oct 6, 2007 - 06:28am PT
That's just one more reason why she's been known as Mimi Dude!
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Mar 20, 2009 - 02:47pm PT
This was quite an interesting thread, and deserves to be bumped. A perennial subject.
MisterE

Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
Apr 8, 2009 - 09:08am PT
I'm almost done bumping, bump
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Aug 24, 2011 - 05:30pm PT
As Mighty Hiker said back in '09, this should be a "perennial subject". And though it's a bit more to '11, I respectfully send it up. I personally love climbing over historic gear up in Tuolumne and am trying to stay a step ahead of Cummins and Brown but they're catching up fast!

After a few years of reflection, the answer to the question pertaining to whether re-bolting may lead to a renaissance in climbing museum pieces(Largo et al)seems to be "no" as a run out is a run out is a........beautiful run out! I love what Russ Walling said (paraphrasing) about knowing that these
beautiful climbs are still there waiting for us to enjoy.........
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Apr 25, 2012 - 10:28pm PT
This thread drifted to nothing.
bob

climber
Sep 7, 2013 - 07:24am PT
Bump. Maybe it could drift into something. Maybe not.
Randisi

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
Sep 7, 2013 - 07:33am PT
Climbing routes are not something that one can put in a museum.

Unfortunately, what we see most at climbing areas are bolts.

And tape. Lots of trash tape.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Sep 7, 2013 - 09:19am PT
here's a practical discussion of a "museum climb" Super Chicken

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1617265

wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Sep 7, 2013 - 09:55am PT
Coming over from the Smoke and Obscurities thread.....The climbs in Tuolumne are being replaced and preserved at a rapid pace with Roger, Greg and Clint doing the bulk of the work. So now one can go for it over protection as solid (more so) as when the FA's did the routes. Roger and Clint are replacing them as they are. No additions or subtractions unless bolts are missing per topo. And Clint gets to make more accurate topo's because some were word of mouth and are different in real time. Though debates rage on about style, content, modus etc., no-one seems to mind the replacement and the hard work that goes into it. These guys are unsung heroes as far as I can tell. And if your thinking of doing a museum piece up there, stop by at the store at 8:30am and ask if the bolts are old (there's a list). If they are, grab an old rope and drag it up with you and leave it for the re-bolters. Not much work that helps a lot.
Greg Barnes

climber
Sep 7, 2013 - 10:17am PT
Speaking of museum climbs... years ago I replaced a couple Kurt Smith routes on North Whizz dome after my partners failed to show up at Handbook - Ease On It (5.10c R) and Knob Roulette (5.10d R/X). Just happened to run into Kurt that afternoon, and he said something like "Why did you bother? No one will ever climb those."

Anyway, just another take on "museum" climbs...
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Sep 7, 2013 - 11:54am PT
Nice Greg. Climbers seem to forget what a great trad, and slab in particular, climber Kurt Smith was/is. His sport achievments and climbing during the Bachar era seems to have shadowed somewhat the "kids" achievments. As a relative newcomer to TM, I hope to get on some of his climbs and I certainly will appreciate clipping a new bolt.
Greg Barnes

climber
Sep 7, 2013 - 12:13pm PT
Think more than a few of his routes are awaiting a second ascent...speaking of slabs, Roger just replaced everything at Whale's Back, yikes!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Sep 7, 2013 - 05:22pm PT
There are more than a few of these climbs in the Needles and it is good to hear that some of the youngsters are making sure they stay that way. Heard through the grape vine that a route that originally had two bolts was upgraded to 10. It has been re-adventurized by a couple of guys that might only be half as old as the climb. I am not into bolt wars but don't get why people needlessly add bolts to other's climbs. There is plenty of places around here to put up your own routes.
T H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Sep 7, 2013 - 10:18pm PT
If replacing bolts on GU routes, it should be done GU, not via rappel.
Crack-N-Up

Big Wall climber
South of the Mason Dixon line
Sep 8, 2013 - 08:07pm PT
Werner's post jumps from 2007, 2009, 2011, 2012 and now here we are in 2013.

Yes replace the original with High Tech bolts and or place high tech bolts next to the originals as souvenirs.

Old Pins: Test with a hammer, or better yet remove and install your own, so you know it won't pull out.

As I see it, there are no shortages for places to climb in this world. If a climb doesn't meet your expectations in safety, don't do it.

I would argue that each area of the country has its own ethical standards, so ask leaders in that area what is acceptable, for that area.

If none of the above works for you, go top rope it, that I would say will always be your right.


mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Sep 8, 2013 - 08:16pm PT
I think it is inevitable and sad that traditionalist will loose this battle as I have seen our dingus milktoast say on the taco a few times, but I think it is fun to put up a fight. Most of the people putting up these routes will not be around for too much longer or are already gone. We will see, but I see it a little like the native Americans stopping the western migration of the Europeans. Not looking too good, but every once in a while there is a little big horn.
Crack-N-Up

Big Wall climber
South of the Mason Dixon line
Sep 8, 2013 - 08:32pm PT
I think it is inevitable and sad that traditionalist will loose this battle
Many, many ways this can play out, but just as history has made laws, some areas may become off limits to someone who thinks they know better than the majority. Some of these climbing areas are in national parks that follow laws.

Some people think they can do anything they want, not so!
Messages 461 - 480 of total 485 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Trip Report and Articles
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews