Your FAs and what you named 'em.


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Sport climber
the heart of WY.
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 7, 2007 - 11:08pm PT
My best friend Ella doing her FA bouldering problem, Tuberculosis V3

Myself doing Pi Squared V2

Sep 8, 2007 - 12:07am PT
In order:

"The Move"

"The Short Bus"


I have forgotten the other 3 which were done just last June. Sucks to be 52 and not think that stuff matters. Cause you will forget it quickly.

ps, nice pics of your routes, thank you.

I wish these were as good as yours, but I'll share anyway as they are all pretty recent.

Here's me on a new one last June/July before beacon opened in an area earlier declared "climbed out". No bolts on this line as it take small gear well. There are bolts to the left where someone else did a bolted route on the face couple of years earlier. I do not remember the name of either my route or that route. I had done some here 25 years ago and forgot them, they now have authentic FA'S by other folks about 2 years ago:-) We never put bolts in at this location then. So I might have done this one 25 years ago, really not sure. Doesn't matter in either case I suppose. Pretty good climbing as you can see. Nice rests, good pro. Normally first time up something like this, I'll stuff all kinds of extra pieces in and back things up, but it was just flowing, and the rock didn't seem too loose, so it was fine to run out some.

Here's Ujahn leading the short bus. Great lead. He's about 2' above his first piece there. Good body and mind control on dusty slab.

Here's me on "the Plum" local Rocky Butte climb. No bolts here either, but if someone wants to put some in, have at it. Probably not a bad idea. Everything which looks like a good crack is in actuality an expanding flake. Nuts and hexes work OK, but I could see a person zippering cams which in all other respects looked like perfect placements.

Theres a bunch more, but most of the pics sucks worse than those.

Take care:

Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Sep 8, 2007 - 12:10am PT
Is that the one and only Fish Products bouldering pad in inhisfootstep's second photo? As found at a garage sale?

Trad climber
the blighted lands of hatu
Sep 8, 2007 - 12:21am PT
i've been searching for the line worthy of 'monkeyboy direct' for a while now...runners up include 'the monkey has reached the hibachi' and 'twinkletoes and monkeyboy' - reserved for when G finally takes me ice flopping...

San Fran Cisco
Sep 8, 2007 - 12:49am PT
why pi squared?

Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 8, 2007 - 01:32am PT
The Winsloner
Shivas Lunchbox
Om Sweet Om
Trailer Trash
Beer Snake
Johnny Cashed
Walk The Line
Mr. Roper
Sponge Worthy
Yellow Shark
Lenny The Lizard
Sex Machine
Get On Up
Baby Seal
Standin' On A Corner
You Can't Whine If You Don't Play
What's Up With Whitey

Social climber
Across town from Easy Street
Sep 8, 2007 - 01:35am PT
chestbeat thread

Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 8, 2007 - 01:35am PT
only if you start throwing out the grades. What? You think you're rick james or something, bitch?

Southern Cali
Sep 8, 2007 - 01:38am PT
The only thing I've ever named after myself. Cleaning before the FA.

"Get Your Hannum Out of my Dihedral"


Trad climber
Durango, CO
Sep 8, 2007 - 01:44am PT
Knee Surgery - In SLO in 1991, my first FA after my first surgery.

Plus a few others, like 'that route on Vermillion Dome' and 'that route in pocket meadow - no the other one'.

Social climber
Sep 8, 2007 - 01:44am PT
I suck at naming routes, so most mine are unnamed.

I suck even more at recording and keeping track! One of these days I'm gonna regret not writing things down.

EDIT: My favorite one is "Porn Star Prophet"

Trad climber
Durango, CO
Sep 8, 2007 - 01:49am PT
Oh yeah, one New Years Eve we were in J-Tree drinking cheap canned beer while climbing new routes. Since I'm a beer snob, I jokingly named one route - Meister Brau Conissueur.

Then on New Years Day, I aided a roof, which seemed so un-JTree to me, and I had that Circle Jerks song running through my head, so I named it - Coup de Etat.

Trad climber
So. Cal.
Sep 8, 2007 - 01:53am PT
"Ubangi Lips"-- Three Ponds, Deep Creek, Lake Arrowhead California.

"What's A Gerbil Between Friends?"--Three Ponds, Deep Creek, Lake Arrowhead California.

"The Weasel Has Landed"--Indian Cove, Joshua Tree California.

These have been un-reported until now.

None of the others have names.

What we do is secret.

Trad climber
So. Cal.
Sep 8, 2007 - 02:04am PT
"What we do is secret"

It's Punk, dude.


Trad climber
Sep 8, 2007 - 02:46am PT
We're Even
(I tore a piece off of it and the boulder returned the favor by tearing up my legs.)
(I was scared.)
(It was a very easy traverse that has you skipping.)
(It was/is choss and remains not worth doing.)

These use to be all around the back of Santa Paula, CA beyond the Punch Bowl Water Falls. They were boulders that were part of the water slides. Anyway, I went there recently and nothing is left since the big storm in 2005(?). I am still wondering where they went.
Please note that in this same storm, The Tar Creek Boulders that were the size of houses disappeared. Can you imagine?
"I hear that many climbers are still are in morning over the loss of the Swimming Hole." AF

Social climber
The West
Sep 8, 2007 - 02:58am PT
Seven after quasimodo
Agent 44
Distal digit dysfuntion
Pay at the pump
Mr Handcrack
The Midnight rambler
The Passionate life
a side of wide
Bomberos away
Improbability drive
Burgers and frys
side of toast
short but wide
unamed (Jay's solo)
Natural end
Bats and beeswax(?)
Bozo's big top
Glue squishing sguish heads
And drop off
cascading funk
the fun factory
Ethnic cleanser
Carob corner
The Rainbow sign
Best of the Blues
Agony of dafeet
Glue squishing squishheads
The classroom roof
a start, anyway

a start, anyway

Trad climber
Sep 8, 2007 - 03:04am PT
Who named the "Poodles" in JTree?
Jerry Dodrill

Bodega, CA
Sep 8, 2007 - 03:20am PT
I like route names that are clever and relevant, though not necessarily to the route.

These are some I put up in Robert Louis Stevenson State Park, can't believe nobody had thought of his book titles (duh)...
Jeckyll and Hyde
Silverado Squatters
Treasure Island

Big Wall climber
33 45' N 117 52' W
Sep 8, 2007 - 03:25am PT
Where are these climbs Jerry?

Trad climber
LA, Ca
Sep 8, 2007 - 03:28am PT
In no particular order (and by no means complete)

Seamstress (waaay before the other one..)
By Jupiter, There's Rings Around Uranus
Hang 'em High (again, waaay before...)
From Afar
Cast Of Characters
Doughballs On A Rampage
No Rest For The Wicked
Route Of All Evil
The Gold Standard
The Horrendicon
The Dimaxicon
The Face Of A Blue Eyed Dog
Save The Wails
Endless Summer
Tick This
Blow Job (Hey, it was windy)

These are some of my faves, and of course my best friends and partners really made it all happen. Those folks include Charlie Crist, Guy Keesee, Jan McCollum, Herbie Leager, Ian Katz, Chelsea Griffie, Julie Lazar, The Scrutinizer, Mike Flood, Rob Brown, Gene Mayo, Erik Eriksson, Craig Morris ...

It's the people, not the routes, in the end...
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