Discussion Topic |
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inhisfootsteps
Sport climber
the heart of WY.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 7, 2007 - 11:08pm PT
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My best friend Ella doing her FA bouldering problem, Tuberculosis V3
Myself doing Pi Squared V2
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couchmaster
climber
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In order:
"The Move"
"The Short Bus"
"Variety"
I have forgotten the other 3 which were done just last June. Sucks to be 52 and not think that stuff matters. Cause you will forget it quickly.
ps, nice pics of your routes, thank you.
I wish these were as good as yours, but I'll share anyway as they are all pretty recent.
Here's me on a new one last June/July before beacon opened in an area earlier declared "climbed out". No bolts on this line as it take small gear well. There are bolts to the left where someone else did a bolted route on the face couple of years earlier. I do not remember the name of either my route or that route. I had done some here 25 years ago and forgot them, they now have authentic FA'S by other folks about 2 years ago:-) We never put bolts in at this location then. So I might have done this one 25 years ago, really not sure. Doesn't matter in either case I suppose. Pretty good climbing as you can see. Nice rests, good pro. Normally first time up something like this, I'll stuff all kinds of extra pieces in and back things up, but it was just flowing, and the rock didn't seem too loose, so it was fine to run out some.
Here's Ujahn leading the short bus. Great lead. He's about 2' above his first piece there. Good body and mind control on dusty slab.
Here's me on "the Plum" local Rocky Butte climb. No bolts here either, but if someone wants to put some in, have at it. Probably not a bad idea. Everything which looks like a good crack is in actuality an expanding flake. Nuts and hexes work OK, but I could see a person zippering cams which in all other respects looked like perfect placements.
Theres a bunch more, but most of the pics sucks worse than those.
Take care:
Bill
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Is that the one and only Fish Products bouldering pad in inhisfootstep's second photo? As found at a garage sale?
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paganmonkeyboy
Trad climber
the blighted lands of hatu
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i've been searching for the line worthy of 'monkeyboy direct' for a while now...runners up include 'the monkey has reached the hibachi' and 'twinkletoes and monkeyboy' - reserved for when G finally takes me ice flopping...
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murcy
climber
San Fran Cisco
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why pi squared?
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Mulva
Festivus
The Winsloner
Shivas Lunchbox
Om Sweet Om
Trailer Trash
Beer Snake
Johnny Cashed
Walk The Line
Mr. Roper
Sponge Worthy
Barracuda
Yellow Shark
Lenny The Lizard
Sex Machine
Get On Up
Baby Seal
Flounder
Standin' On A Corner
You Can't Whine If You Don't Play
What's Up With Whitey
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MisterE
Social climber
Across town from Easy Street
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chestbeat thread
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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only if you start throwing out the grades. What? You think you're rick james or something, bitch?
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HighGravity
climber
Southern Cali
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The only thing I've ever named after myself. Cleaning before the FA.
"Get Your Hannum Out of my Dihedral"
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climbrunride
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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Knee Surgery - In SLO in 1991, my first FA after my first surgery.
Plus a few others, like 'that route on Vermillion Dome' and 'that route in pocket meadow - no the other one'.
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N0_ONE
Social climber
Utah
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I suck at naming routes, so most mine are unnamed.
I suck even more at recording and keeping track! One of these days I'm gonna regret not writing things down.
EDIT: My favorite one is "Porn Star Prophet"
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climbrunride
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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Oh yeah, one New Years Eve we were in J-Tree drinking cheap canned beer while climbing new routes. Since I'm a beer snob, I jokingly named one route - Meister Brau Conissueur.
Then on New Years Day, I aided a roof, which seemed so un-JTree to me, and I had that Circle Jerks song running through my head, so I named it - Coup de Etat.
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Chaz
Trad climber
So. Cal.
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"Ubangi Lips"-- Three Ponds, Deep Creek, Lake Arrowhead California.
"What's A Gerbil Between Friends?"--Three Ponds, Deep Creek, Lake Arrowhead California.
"The Weasel Has Landed"--Indian Cove, Joshua Tree California.
These have been un-reported until now.
None of the others have names.
What we do is secret.
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Chaz
Trad climber
So. Cal.
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"What we do is secret"
It's Punk, dude.
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Anastasia
Trad climber
California
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We're Even
(I tore a piece off of it and the boulder returned the favor by tearing up my legs.)
Mama!
(I was scared.)
Chocolate
(It was a very easy traverse that has you skipping.)
Drama
(It was/is choss and remains not worth doing.)
These use to be all around the back of Santa Paula, CA beyond the Punch Bowl Water Falls. They were boulders that were part of the water slides. Anyway, I went there recently and nothing is left since the big storm in 2005(?). I am still wondering where they went.
Please note that in this same storm, The Tar Creek Boulders that were the size of houses disappeared. Can you imagine?
"I hear that many climbers are still are in morning over the loss of the Swimming Hole." AF
AF
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Anita
Lola
Lucille
Seven after quasimodo
Agent 44
Bombay
Distal digit dysfuntion
Pay at the pump
Mr Handcrack
The Midnight rambler
Agression
The Passionate life
a side of wide
Voyna
Mir
Bomberos away
Improbability drive
Spitroon
Burgers and frys
side of toast
short but wide
unamed (Jay's solo)
Natural end
Bats and beeswax(?)
Bozo's big top
Unconform
Glue squishing sguish heads
Y2k
Gore-bosch-ev
And drop off
cascading funk
the fun factory
Ethnic cleanser
Carob corner
The Rainbow sign
Best of the Blues
Agony of dafeet
Bhodisaabva
Glue squishing squishheads
The classroom roof
a start, anyway
a start, anyway
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Anastasia
Trad climber
California
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Who named the "Poodles" in JTree?
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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I like route names that are clever and relevant, though not necessarily to the route.
These are some I put up in Robert Louis Stevenson State Park, can't believe nobody had thought of his book titles (duh)...
Jeckyll and Hyde
Silverado Squatters
Treasure Island
Kidnapped
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poop_tube
Big Wall climber
33° 45' N 117° 52' W
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Where are these climbs Jerry?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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In no particular order (and by no means complete)
Seamstress (waaay before the other one..)
By Jupiter, There's Rings Around Uranus
Hang 'em High (again, waaay before...)
Siezure
From Afar
Despairadoes
Cast Of Characters
Doughballs On A Rampage
No Rest For The Wicked
Route Of All Evil
The Gold Standard
The Horrendicon
The Dimaxicon
The Face Of A Blue Eyed Dog
Save The Wails
Endless Summer
Tick This
Blow Job (Hey, it was windy)
These are some of my faves, and of course my best friends and partners really made it all happen. Those folks include Charlie Crist, Guy Keesee, Jan McCollum, Herbie Leager, Ian Katz, Chelsea Griffie, Julie Lazar, The Scrutinizer, Mike Flood, Rob Brown, Gene Mayo, Erik Eriksson, Craig Morris ...
It's the people, not the routes, in the end...
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prunes
climber
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No stranger to the fist
Blinded by Lust
Hammercase
Emperor of the North
Detox Mountain
Afro Americans on the Apex
Mason Dixon Line
Blue Velvet
American Handgunner
Booze Pig
Straight No Chaser
Ten High
Romancing the Bone
Welfare Line
Barbarians at the Gate
Pagean Rituals
The Great White Hope
Between the Cheeks
Rebel Yell
Ragin Cagin
Under The Bottle
The Spy with the Golden Penis
Dog F*#ker #1,#2 and #3
Peyote Blues
Fecal Manovoreres in the Dark
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Last couple of month's F A's.......Sokolove (Done today after work!)..., The Fetus , I Love My Marine , A Diamond A Pony and a Farrari , The Belt Sander , Licking Wood, Uncle Lenny's Pot Farm, The Baconator, Cockpit, Woody's Whirlpool Bath, Licking The Toad, Meth Mart, Rim Marcinkus, I Smell Bacon, Phallograph, Knight of the Iron Sausage, Phelp's Chevrolet, Doke, An Erection Lasting Longer Than Four Hours, Bongo Johnny, Nicole Kidman, My Naughty Little Donkey, Weiner Inspector, Respect My Peeps, Snot Rockets, Demon Decons, Hot -N-Ready, A Dot of Culture, .......
Doke
The Cockpit
I Smell Bacon
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Here's some more F A pics;....
Matt Gay (Bond Boulders)
Svapada
Badger's Choff Piece
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Black Out
Petrified Bear's Dick
Petrified Bear's Dick
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Anastasia,
I think Randy Vogel is the perpetrator of the Poodle names.
Rick
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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I admire the courage of those of you willing to confess to naming some of those things. I'm frankly embaressed to put my name to a lot of the stuff I came up with-- I'll always owe Scott and Robyn for changing "Hitler Youth" to Twenty Nine Bombs." But I guess I'll have to live with "Women in Chains." Some of them are so awful I can only pray they've been forgotten or retro-bolted and renamed.
I like Gill's story of the aging boulderer trudging out to some tiny overhanging blob. In my youth, he said, I probably would've named it "Odin's Hammer." But now it just looked like an inverted squash.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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astrominer(long corner near leadville)
lactosis (pumpfest)
green piece (about how it sounds)
Don't Worry Kyoto (mommy's only looking for the bolt in the snow)
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Hey McCleod, Get Off of My Ewe
Sleezy Morman
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Boner Doner
Baby Fae
My Senior Project
Stress Puppet
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Houses of the Homeless
Bish
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Burkulator
Halloweenis
Beak Boulders
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Symbolic of Life
I Can't Believe it's a Girl
N. Wonderland
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Dry Wallet, Wet Behind
Krystal Ball
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inhisfootsteps
Sport climber
the heart of WY.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2007 - 12:22pm PT
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Mighty Hiker-
Yes indeed! It is the Fish Products Bouldering Pad that I recived! It did me quite nicely until on Pi Squared I threw it down in a nice patch of poison ivy thinking that the ivy couldn't possibly rub off onto the pad. I was sadly mistaken and I thouroughly hated the ride home seeing that I had poison ivy all up my back.
Ella doing La Esquina
Myself on Tuberculosis
If you can't see what it is, this is the pocket that you have to slap up to from a sit start complete with a hornets nest (as we found out was occupied) lets just say it made the problem 10X more interesting..
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Dr. Taco
Social climber
New Freedonia, Caledonia
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Dr. Taco is now convinced that you Colorado and Wyoming girls KICK ASS!
Anyone have a remedy for this poor girl's bouldering pad, infested with poison ivy? Dr. Taco believes it will take something with solvent qualities to remove the oil.
Dr. Taco
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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bolting pitch 3 of "Time For Livin- 6 pitchs 5.13 Outage Wall"- Potreo Chico.
then the redpoint of pitch 6 of Time For Livin...
some of my favorite FA's...
burning down the house
electric africa
black out
grace under pressure
vision thing
slice of life
movement of fear
sonic youth
battle Royale
devils cabana boy
afro juan
knucklehead
and way too many more to remember...
FA's are the best part of climbing...
ks
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Paul Martzen
Trad climber
Fresno
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Munge Master
Swallow
Scary Monsters
Safety Dance
Maybe's Baby
The Jump Trip
Brains
Geezer Tweezer
Schizocrackic
Surface Tension
Fire' and Water
About the poison oak on the crash pad. If you can remove the cover, just toss it in the wash on hot with a normal detergent.
If you can't take the cover off, maybe just use an upholstery shampoorer, again the hotter the better for removing the oils. An upholstery steam cleaner should do the trick even better.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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I'd be here all day even without explanations, but the story BEHIND the name is often the best part of the tale.
I've already told of how my first big route Pervertical Sanctuary got its name.
But it is the second most popular route on a well known wall. The following story is about a route so obscure that it probably hasn't been repeated in a quarter century.
But before the route came the backstory which goes back over thirty years.
In May '77 with ropes fixed on what would become the Dorn Direct (no secret behind that name) I flew to NYC for my sister's first wedding.
It was there that I first met the bozo that she had tried to kill herself over when he had threatened to leave her. Obviously a bozo because he could be manipulated so easily with a little guilt.
Anyway, BIG wedding.
Turns out the Bozo has a cute teenage daughter from a previous marriage.
Yeah, you guessed it.
But it wasn't incest (at least not genetically...)
The cute daughter (who I am mercifully NOT naming) lives with her mom and stepfather in Indiana.
Well it turns out that the stepfather is a gun toting control freak. A fact that would be established in a bizarre series of incidents a few months later.
Anyway, the day after the wedding I fly back and the next day I'm jugging my ropes without a care in the world blissfully unaware that that morning George Willig was climbing the World Trade Center.
However, several hundred people who attended the wedding are now calling my mom to warn her that her crazy climber son was,...
and she hadn't seen me off to the airport or anything so she is totally freaking out!
Anyway I correspond hot and heavy with the cute daughter in Indiana, and after I'm back in Colorado we start talking about me going out there.
Very long story short;
The control freak stepfather sees "his" family threatened by "my" family sort of co-opting its members so the Indiana 'father' (he had already had several more with HER mom) actually has me followed by a private investigater from Colorado to Indiana but his plan to waylay me (and do god knows what) goes awry and I discover his machinations.
So the thing with the cute daughter doesn't last (eventually her younger sister marries a guy who becomes a paraplgiac from a fall), but years later I put up this beautiful Wingate sandstone crack climb in a truly obscure location and I named the route for the father from Indiana that had me followed.
The name of the route?
Hoosier Daddy
LOL
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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So I went to a Yoga class at a studio in south Seattle. I drove my stepmoms car - a cadillac (older one). I get back to the car after class and the key won't turn the ignition. An older black gentlemen decided he'd like to help (he saw me trying to fux with the car).
He says... "gimme the keys". I do.
He gets in. Trys to turn the ignition.
"ho man... yo' cars been jacked... somebody tried to steal your ca'".
I kindly explain to him I didn't think that was the case.
"Got any cigaretts?"
I say no.
"Buy me a beer".
I kindly do so.
So I decide the car ain't gonna start so we call in a lock smith.
While I'm hanging out it gets dark.
The brothahs and sisters start to appear on their street corner.
Well... a younger black gentleman decides he doesn't like me being there.
Yo! N-word, What's up with Whitey?".
I gulp.
The older black gentleman defends me.
"f*#k you n-word." - back and forth.
young gentleman throws a beer can at older gentleman.
I decide I should walk to the store a block a way and hang out.
Turns out the younger gentleman finally caught what was going on.
He walks down the block and talks to me. He says, "Hey man, sorry about that - I though you were moving in our drug turf".
I say it's cool. Locksmith arrives and gets me a key that works and I bail.
So... what ron said is so true, it's all about the story behind the route name.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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So what is the name of the route?
Honkey Skates?
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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What's up with Whitey?
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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I suspect you may have been better off if it wasn't a Caddy. lol
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TwistedCrank
climber
The banks of reality
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Long ago and far away we spent a day putting up boulder problems on some skank pile hidden in the waybacks of western Colorado and named them all after classic routes in Eldo Canyon. That was some fun yeah-soo-ree.
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Dr.Kodos
Trad climber
Tennessee
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Slappin TA's Eye Straight
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Bullet the Blue Sky....and then about 1,400 more.
Not my Cross to Bear
The Arms Race
Bob's Face
Bob
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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The Black Pearl
La Honda Wash
Yum Yum/Boom Boom
Lockerbie
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Open Winfrey
Eddy
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Sharon Stone
Turd Burgler
Jesus Saw You Take it
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Craig
Proper B T
Baby Tool
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Everyone But Larry
Water Babies
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inhisfootsteps
Sport climber
the heart of WY.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2007 - 06:10pm PT
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you are a spectacular photographer...and route setter!!!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Seamstress @ Courtright:
Booting up for the FA of Despairadoes, Gorge of Despair (that's Tehipite Dome behind and below...)
Despairadoes:
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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San Bernardinos
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ec
climber
ca
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The Romantic Warrior, The Warlock
White Punks on Dope, Voodoo Dome
Just a Rock in the Park, Angel Wings
Crystal Bonsai, Bubbs Creek Wall
Full Metal Jacket, Moro Rock, Sequoia NP
Moro Oro, Moro Rock, Sequoia NP
In the Niche of Time, Tehipite Dome
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rick d
Social climber
tucson, az
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frankenelly
"bill" (on "bill (rock))
best in west s (on Bill's neighbor (rock))
west of best s (on Bill's neighbor (rock), left of above)
oreo girls
luca and the fishes
the uvula of time
the waist of time
"the pratt route"
you can have your puddin' if you eat your meat
the bet (If I free it without cussing DDC will pay up)
..........
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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I don't even get to name my routes any more, they get named for me.
last one I did, two years ago, with Steg holding the rope, and COrbet and steve bitchey kibitzing, got named "Drama Queen".
I can't figure out why.
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George R
climber
The Gray Area
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Sep 19, 2007 - 01:37pm PT
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I'm partial to route names which say something about the route or the rock and which also have some other reference or double meaning.
One example: "Archie and Jughead" followed a half arch to its end, then finished up a juggy face. The name references the climb and also the Archie Comics characters of the same names.
I'm currently working on a new route in Tuolumne which I'm calling "Shadow Of The Past". The route goes up a particularly dark section of rock. I had been considering a number of names which referenced the dark aspect of the rock. During work on the route, I came home to Berkeley for a few days and found a message on my answering machine from a woman I knew years ago back east where I grew up. The message gave me quite a shock. I started thinking in terms of referring to this incident in the name of the route I was working on. "Voice From The Past" evolved into "Shadow Of The Past"; "Shadow" referring to the dark rock. As a bonus, it's a Lord Of The Rings reference as well. The chapter where Galdalf relates the history of the ring to Frodo is entitled: The Shadow Of The Past. Tuolumne has many climb names derived from The Lord Of The Rings, so this fits right in.
So, from a phone message from long ago and far away to "Shadow Of The Past".
- George Ridgley
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Sep 19, 2007 - 02:17pm PT
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Loose Lady
EBGBs
Peter eater, pumpkin eater
Lead us not into temptation - stolen from one climbing partner by myself and another partner
An eye for an eye, a route for a route - payback stealing the next weekend
Slip sliding away
Grand canyon donkey trail
Crystal calisthenics
Dummy's delights - named by me but really named dumbsh!t's delight
Chalk up another one
Good to the last drop
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Sep 19, 2007 - 03:15pm PT
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George R wrote: I'm partial to route names which say something about the route or the rock and which also have some other reference or double meaning.
Ditto. For example...
A Tough Crack to Nut (forgive the poor quality photo):
GO
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BlazeOn
Trad climber
Asheville, NC
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Sep 19, 2007 - 05:00pm PT
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Rode Hard and Put Up Wet.
Cool little boulder problem right next to Wilson Creek here in WNC. That day there were actually lots of boaters out running the creek and they kept coming by givin us crazy looks since we were out there in the rain. It pulled out an overhang so that only the topout was wet. We had to finish, did, and gave it a proper name. Haven't done it since.
Ha ha...its actually the other way around...Rode Wet and Put up Hard. HA. hells yes.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Sep 19, 2007 - 05:01pm PT
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Todd, "Jesus saw you take it" looks really cool!
Here is a few names of recent f.a. boulder problems in Marin County. There is a history of something being in the local water supply- and it ain't truth serum
De-fib-you-later
Lichen detector
anti truth serum
Rusty never sleeps
and a few others....
Giddyup
Panorama
Joy ride
Ghost ride
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scooter
climber
B loop site 15
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Sep 19, 2007 - 08:55pm PT
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smurf rodeo
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| Messages 1 - 66 of total 66 in this topic |
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