TR: Gumbies on Half Dome


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Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 16, 2007 - 09:17pm PT
Hey folks,

As promised to Russ when I purchased my haulbag from him and without further ado, here you have it:

Gumbies on Half Dome: a Regular Northwest Face Trip Report

Here's a photo to peak your interest. This is me about to climb the 4th class section on P8:



right here, right now
Aug 16, 2007 - 09:34pm PT
That is a very thoughtful and well laid out trip report!
In general, we're not worthy, ha ha ha, but you sure did Russ proud.
Most excellent.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
Aug 16, 2007 - 09:41pm PT
Holy Cow!!!!!!!!! Way to persevere! You better get that bag back in here for a free repair of the cut strap..... you doodz are hard! Good job!
feelio Babar

Trad climber
Sneaking up behind you...
Aug 16, 2007 - 09:51pm PT
Great TR guys! Congrats!

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Aug 16, 2007 - 10:00pm PT
You've just raised the TR bar to a new level. Very cool TR. Not only was that a great push, but you guys KICK_ASS! Nice job.
nick d

Trad climber
Aug 16, 2007 - 10:01pm PT
Awesome TR! Congratulations on a fine ascent!

Roger Breedlove

Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Aug 16, 2007 - 10:03pm PT
Congratulations Tad, Derek and Patty.

I was studying the pictures and following along with really old memories but got totally lost in the pitches between your bivvy and the chimney pitches before 'Big Sandy.'

I slowed down and looked carefully:

One of my favorite pitches is gone???

When did the 'Flake Pitch' fall off? Werner? Russ?

Great trip report.

Best, Roger

PS: You should give that fat Marmot star billing.
Wild Bill

Aug 16, 2007 - 10:22pm PT
I think the flake broke off in Spring of '91. We got up there a few months later and were stumped, feeling off-route, looking at this terrain that was not matching what we'd always heard about that famous flake.

Turned out, the flake was gone.

We always wondered if some poor sap rode it down, all Dr. Strangelove style.

Thanks for the TR


Social climber
Aug 16, 2007 - 10:35pm PT
hey there tadhunt---say, you sure set up a nice "recipe card" there.... very well set up presentation... thanks for the show... .yep, i knowwwwwwwwww, the climb was LOTS better than the pics!.... thanks for the post...

East of Seattle
Aug 16, 2007 - 10:38pm PT
Very nice! I'll stick with minor sufferfests thanks ;)
Roger Breedlove

Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Aug 16, 2007 - 10:51pm PT
The orginal famous undercling pitch, ca. 1974.

The current state
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Aug 16, 2007 - 10:54pm PT
you guys rock!
good going!!

and isn't it great what Russ can make us do for a haul bag
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Aug 16, 2007 - 11:20pm PT
A fine TR, and clearly a good adventure and learning experience. Congratulations!

It can even count as a sort of 50th anniversary ascent - Robbins, Gallwas and Sherrick did it in late June 1957, taking five dayss. Three people - five days - 50 years. Uncanny.

Crestline CA
Aug 16, 2007 - 11:33pm PT
Yo.. when I climbed it again in 88 (first time was 1970) the undercling was gone.... when I did it in 70 psyche flake was gone... I think it departed in 68... thank goodness!!

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Aug 16, 2007 - 11:37pm PT
really good - great post.
Standing Strong

Trad climber
bringin' sexy back
Aug 16, 2007 - 11:57pm PT

hell. yea.

Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2007 - 12:44am PT
Roger Breedlove wrote: The orginal famous undercling pitch, ca. 1974.

Wow, that pitch really changed! I think there is still a little stub of the missing flake in the chimney, which leads to the current supertopo beta that says "watch rope drag over chockstones".

Man, I'm glad most of the loose rock is gone.


Site C4 in TMCG
Aug 17, 2007 - 12:50am PT
great job

Aug 17, 2007 - 12:51am PT

What a trip report.

Trad climber
Aug 17, 2007 - 12:53am PT
All right!
Way to go. Good TR too.
Messages 1 - 20 of total 37 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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