Discussion Topic |
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tadhunt
Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 16, 2007 - 09:17pm PT
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Hey folks,
As promised to Russ when I purchased my haulbag from him and without further ado, here you have it:
Gumbies on Half Dome: a Regular Northwest Face Trip Report
Here's a photo to peak your interest. This is me about to climb the 4th class section on P8:
Enjoy!
-Tad
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 16, 2007 - 09:34pm PT
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That is a very thoughtful and well laid out trip report!
In general, we're not worthy, ha ha ha, but you sure did Russ proud.
Most excellent.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Aug 16, 2007 - 09:41pm PT
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Holy Cow!!!!!!!!! Way to persevere! You better get that bag back in here for a free repair of the cut strap..... you doodz are hard! Good job!
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feelio Babar
Trad climber
Sneaking up behind you...
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Aug 16, 2007 - 09:51pm PT
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Great TR guys! Congrats!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Aug 16, 2007 - 10:00pm PT
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You've just raised the TR bar to a new level. Very cool TR. Not only was that a great push, but you guys KICK_ASS! Nice job.
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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Aug 16, 2007 - 10:01pm PT
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Awesome TR! Congratulations on a fine ascent!
Michael
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Aug 16, 2007 - 10:03pm PT
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Congratulations Tad, Derek and Patty.
I was studying the pictures and following along with really old memories but got totally lost in the pitches between your bivvy and the chimney pitches before 'Big Sandy.'
I slowed down and looked carefully:
One of my favorite pitches is gone???
When did the 'Flake Pitch' fall off? Werner? Russ?
Great trip report.
Best, Roger
PS: You should give that fat Marmot star billing.
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Wild Bill
climber
Ca
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Aug 16, 2007 - 10:22pm PT
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I think the flake broke off in Spring of '91. We got up there a few months later and were stumped, feeling off-route, looking at this terrain that was not matching what we'd always heard about that famous flake.
Turned out, the flake was gone.
We always wondered if some poor sap rode it down, all Dr. Strangelove style.
Thanks for the TR
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Aug 16, 2007 - 10:35pm PT
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hey there tadhunt---say, you sure set up a nice "recipe card" there.... very well set up presentation... thanks for the show... .yep, i knowwwwwwwwww, the climb was LOTS better than the pics!.... thanks for the post...
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pc
climber
East of Seattle
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Aug 16, 2007 - 10:38pm PT
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Very nice! I'll stick with minor sufferfests thanks ;)
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Aug 16, 2007 - 10:51pm PT
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The orginal famous undercling pitch, ca. 1974.
The current state
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 16, 2007 - 10:54pm PT
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you guys rock!
good going!!
and isn't it great what Russ can make us do for a haul bag
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 16, 2007 - 11:20pm PT
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A fine TR, and clearly a good adventure and learning experience. Congratulations!
It can even count as a sort of 50th anniversary ascent - Robbins, Gallwas and Sherrick did it in late June 1957, taking five dayss. Three people - five days - 50 years. Uncanny.
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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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Aug 16, 2007 - 11:33pm PT
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Yo.. when I climbed it again in 88 (first time was 1970) the undercling was gone.... when I did it in 70 psyche flake was gone... I think it departed in 68... thank goodness!!
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Aug 16, 2007 - 11:37pm PT
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really good - great post.
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Standing Strong
Trad climber
bringin' sexy back
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Aug 16, 2007 - 11:57pm PT
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bump.
hell. yea.
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tadhunt
Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2007 - 12:44am PT
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Roger Breedlove wrote: The orginal famous undercling pitch, ca. 1974.
Wow, that pitch really changed! I think there is still a little stub of the missing flake in the chimney, which leads to the current supertopo beta that says "watch rope drag over chockstones".
Man, I'm glad most of the loose rock is gone.
-Tad
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10b4me
climber
Site C4 in TMCG
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Aug 17, 2007 - 12:50am PT
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great job
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 17, 2007 - 12:51am PT
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Wow
What a trip report.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Aug 17, 2007 - 12:53am PT
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All right!
Way to go. Good TR too.
Zander
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BadInfluence
Mountain climber
Dak side
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Aug 17, 2007 - 08:32am PT
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incredible TR! thank you
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Bovine
Trad climber
USA
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Aug 17, 2007 - 10:10am PT
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Awesome report! Lots of time and energy went into the climb and report. Great to use as beta in the future. THANKS!
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TimN
Trad climber
St. Charles, MO
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Aug 17, 2007 - 10:56am PT
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What an awesome read! Your team really experienced the trials of a big wall. Congratulations! Four years ago, my partners and I started running at about the same point on the descent so we had time for showers and pizza in Curry Village. Your TR brought back some of my best memories. Thanks.
Tim
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tadhunt
Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2007 - 12:04pm PT
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Thanks everyone for all the positive responses. It certainly felt like writing it was almost as epic as living it!
Russ, thanks for offering to fixup my haulbag! I'll take you up on that, just as soon as I get back home. I'm sitting in SFO airport right now waiting for my flight to China (Beijing) for work. I'll be there until mid-september, so I'll send it on in when I get back!
I just have to say that I never would have thought to ramp up so fast so soon. If it wasn't for my partners (Derek, primarily, being the driving force!) I'd probably be sitting here having a meager climbing summer and wishing I got out more.
If I had to label the three of us, I would say:
Derek: Ropegun! Derek did the majority of the leading, especially anything hard or chimney-like.
Patty: Bold. Bold aid leads, 2 good falls, long lowerouts in the dark without a headlamp, etc.
Tad:Steady. Plodded along, getting it done. Probably the most excitable of the three of us.
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YetAnotherDave
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Aug 17, 2007 - 12:42pm PT
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Great TR, thanks!
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susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
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Aug 17, 2007 - 01:16pm PT
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Wow, that's some handsome bag!
Nice TR, thanks for sharing and neat format. Glad you made it back safely. What a death march!
~Susan
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Gunkie
climber
East Coast US
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Aug 17, 2007 - 01:31pm PT
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Nicely done!
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Aug 17, 2007 - 01:43pm PT
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Great TR... Thanks for sharing.
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Prod
Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
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Aug 17, 2007 - 01:55pm PT
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Very cool.
We are heading out to do our 1st big wall in Sept. This totally got me amped for it.
Any advice?
Thanks
Prod.
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Euroford
Trad climber
chicago
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Aug 17, 2007 - 02:58pm PT
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great job on both the climb and TR!
definitly helping pass the office time this friday!
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Aug 17, 2007 - 02:59pm PT
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Superb! Thanks so much for sharing!
Got me psyched to do some wall climbing.
GO
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tadhunt
Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2007 - 03:59am PT
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Susan Peplow wrote: Wow, that's some handsome bag!
Funny story about the guy in that photo: He's some random Swedish tourist that we ran into on the trail. He saw the bag and couldn't wait to pick it up and try hiking with it!
We thought he was really gonna hurt himself, he almost tipped over when he stood up.
He said something like "ahh, that's not bad"... Course that's what I said when I put it on too... Then 5 minutes later, I changed my mind.
-Tad
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tadhunt
Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2007 - 04:04am PT
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Prod wrote: Any advice?
Yeah, don't get the pig stuck :-)
Oh, and I think the easy aiders rock -- I don't think I can ever go back to the step style.
Hmmm.. And we were glad we brought a small (3-4 foot) stick clip. Some people consider that cheating, but unless you're a really good aid climber, it will really speed up reachy bolt ladders, and help avoid some sketchy aid placements if there is fixed gear above the crappy section (bolt, piton, fixed nut, etc).
Bring more water then you think you will need!
Feel free to drop me an email if you want to talk about specifics.
-Tad
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Duke-
Trad climber
SF, aka: Dirkastan
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Aug 18, 2007 - 07:45pm PT
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Congratulations!
That was one of the finest trip reports that I have ever seen. Keep em' coming!
-Dirka
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Aug 18, 2007 - 08:22pm PT
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Epic! I really enjoyed reading about all that...
don't it take ya back?
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Handjam Belay
Gym climber
expat from the truth
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Aug 18, 2007 - 08:40pm PT
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Cheers on your topout! We climbed the dome the day before, and got down late.
My girlfriend Stacey is in some of those pics.
Glad y'all had a good time.
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labrat
Trad climber
Nevada
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Aug 19, 2007 - 02:15am PT
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Fun read. Wow.
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