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Rocky5000
Trad climber
Falls Church, VA
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Aug 13, 2007 - 10:53pm PT
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some more nominations from the East -
Crack of Dawn (Seneca)
Bushwhack Crack
Strawberry Jam (Old Rag)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 13, 2007 - 11:03pm PT
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Werner wrote:
"I think I hammered a six inch aluminum bong end wise at the top of the Zebra.
How wide would that be?"
Well you got me their boss, technically speaking, as the tape measure goes, that would be 6 inches: but what about all that nice crack leading up to where it gets wide?
I know, I know, I only did the one jam, while leaning out of the belay.
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 13, 2007 - 11:06pm PT
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Yeah it's 1 1/2 to 2 inches. It's still there for someone to free climb.
Where is the hardman free climber to do this?
Tissiack might be a sleeper free climb?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 13, 2007 - 11:10pm PT
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Now look what you've started!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Aug 13, 2007 - 11:12pm PT
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after the revolution, splitters in every pot!!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 13, 2007 - 11:14pm PT
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Okay okay, it ain't pure hands, more like fingers & hands to fist'n stuff, but that pitch on Fatal Mistake is straight up straight in hero climbing.
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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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Aug 13, 2007 - 11:14pm PT
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Tis-sa-sack sleeper free climb...What!?
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Aug 13, 2007 - 11:14pm PT
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It safe to say that the area around Moab holds the greatest amount of classic (climbed and unclimbed) handcracks in the world.
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bob
climber
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Aug 13, 2007 - 11:19pm PT
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Bob D. wrote, "Scorpio Crack,Drumstick Direct and Quivering Quill...South Platte area.
North Face, Castleton "
I agree, but would have to add that really, its half or more of the cracks at Turkey Rocks that rock the hands. Bob, what about the C. Pinnacle and Poe Butt? Holy hands!
Also, I would have to say Silent Line up on the Gold Wall is hands fugging heaven if you are a 5.13 face climber or just willing to yard on a bolt ladder. Hands heaven.
Bob J.
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Aug 13, 2007 - 11:42pm PT
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Bob...already mentioned C-Pinnacle. Poe Buttress doesn't have any pure handcracks and T-Rocks has some of Colorado best crack climbing in all sizes.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Aug 13, 2007 - 11:53pm PT
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bv and handsum b-- that thing looks really cool. but also really sharp and painful. on the other hand, it's in the henry's, and that alone makes it worthwhile as a destination. fall? say, october? room on the couch? i'll bring the good bourbon-- good enuf to get u off that foreign shite.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 13, 2007 - 11:58pm PT
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There really aren't that many good hand cracks in the desert.
(!)
hehehe
First ascent of No Name Crack on Super Crack Buttress, 1982.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Aug 14, 2007 - 12:50am PT
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Yeah, funny that. 5 trillion Wingate splitters and none of them are actually hand sized.
Hey, what about the Dunn route on Moses, or is it Pale Fire? Haven't clumb either myself, but one is supposed to have tons of 5.10 hands after the hard pitch. I guess that'd be Pale Fire.
If I recall correctly, that second pitch of the Odyssey devolves into an offwidth trough in short order. Fact is, NC is kinda hurting for pure hand cracks. There's that thing over left of the Nose,Dum-de-dum dum, and a couple moves on Gemini cracks, and I heard something up high on the Menagerie, and that's about it for the Glass. Oh yeah-- Fear of Flying, ha.
Fruit Loops.
Tis-sa-ack has miles of red camalots in a corner, as well as some super-proud odub, and several bolt ladders that will never go free. The Zebra is awesome, and I yarded on gear all the way up it. Next time, I'm bringing a belayer...
That second pitch on Wunsch's is brilliant. Not to mention the last pitch of the Edge.
Surely the Diamond has a couple.
The Arches Terrace Direct has an awesome 200' hand-sized 5.8 splitter on the last pitch. However, the opening pitches are not 5.8, so it won't be overtaking the Bishop's Terrace in popularity anytime soon.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 14, 2007 - 12:56am PT
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Rhodo:
I've done both Pale Fire and the Dunn Route on Moses.
Couldn't touch the 5.12 rattley fingers on Pale Fire, yes there are hand cracks above, which go OK at 5.10, but they are awkwardly situated in flares.
The Dunn route is terrific: but the crux is a superlative overhanging fist crack in a corner, real punchy.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Aug 14, 2007 - 12:59am PT
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Somewhere down low on the Scenic Cruise are some fairly heroic hands sections.
I believe the Road Warrior is hands for Grug.
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yo
climber
The Eye of the Snail
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Aug 14, 2007 - 01:03am PT
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Anybody been on that lil' Star Wars in Eldo? Goes in the "man that was over fast" file.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 14, 2007 - 01:03am PT
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You're right about the hand cracks on the Scenic Cruise!
I Simul climbed the first four to five pitches of that route in about 45 minutes just to get to those cracks and taste them.
Excellent section of hand and fingers. Then it started raining.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 14, 2007 - 01:05am PT
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Yup, Star Wars on Peanuts Wall, 5.8 hands. Nice and yes too short.
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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Aug 14, 2007 - 01:05am PT
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I gotta throw in ROTC at Midnight Rock (Leavenworth, WA) just for fun...because it as just as awesome as the other awesome routes mentioned here!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 14, 2007 - 01:21am PT
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Oh man, I always wanted to do that ROTC!
Bit of a test piece right?
Just the other day I was trying to remember the name...
Here's the second pitch of Wunsch's Diehedral:
From Godfrey and Chelton's climb!
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