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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Aug 13, 2007 - 08:19pm PT
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I was under the impression Crimson Cringe was thin hands too. (I've never even looked at it.) What does it do that makes it 12a if it's fatties?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Aug 13, 2007 - 08:35pm PT
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the best thing about this puppy is it is a single, uninterrupted, absolute splitter that goes continuously without a break for about 500', features every size imaginable, and concludes on one of the wildest and most isolated summits ever with an unbelievable view that goes for 100+ miles.
and this is just the first pitch. a whoppinhg 180' rope stretcher....
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Aug 13, 2007 - 08:38pm PT
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Which puppy is that, bvb? It does look nice.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Aug 13, 2007 - 08:39pm PT
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"I was under the impression Crimson Cringe was thin hands too. (I've never even looked at it.) What does it do that makes it 12a if it's fatties?"
the forst 30 or 40 feet of the cringe is a pretty sequential, wierd, hard-to-read tips crack. it's 12a all by itself. the rest of the pitch is a massive 5.10 pumpfest. need a rest? fuggedabouddit.
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Dog
climber
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Aug 13, 2007 - 08:41pm PT
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Ive never seen so much attention given to Hotline.What a sweet crack and trip that was. Way over my ability when we did it way back. Went and did it anyway.Buddy was way run with a shortage of hand pieces. When I went up to second, cams were tipped out and barely hanging on. Big effort on my partners lead.
I believe Croft considers this one the valleys best so I am told. Ill second that.
Way ta Go Angus, wherever you are,
Will
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Aug 13, 2007 - 08:42pm PT
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melissa -- it's at 8500' in the henry mountains at the end of nasty a 25 mile dirt road that eats tires for fun, washes out often, and has stranded more cars than i care to remember. i've done the route a few times and i don't think it even has a name.
mos def no guide to the area.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Aug 13, 2007 - 08:43pm PT
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OK...If crimson cringe counts, then I nominate every green/red camalot crack I so much as looked at in Indian Creek! The 12a tips part takes the fun out of the handcrack for me! (b/c I wouldn't be able to climb.)
Actually, now that I'm thinking of it, the hands forever part of Space Shot was brilliant and not that thin.
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Old&InTheWay
Trad climber
NC
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Aug 13, 2007 - 09:04pm PT
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Excuse Station at the Creek is an amazing splitter but thin for large hands.
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yo
climber
The Eye of the Snail
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Aug 13, 2007 - 09:36pm PT
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Desert? Whaaaaaat?
IHC, Super, Generic, Bunny Slope (full rope), 3 AM, Blue Sun, that brilliant thing above the reservoir, that corner on Meat, Rock Lobster, the new Slot Machine bwahaha, and that's just IC off the top o' me head, plus all the ones that don't even have names, plus if we're counting the Crimson Cringes of the desert we got what, Critic's Choice, Fonda, Deseret Moon and a million others I don't have the sack to get on, PLUS if you got little girl hands you got your Excuse Station/Pente/half a thousand other thin-handies, whilst if you're big, I don't know, those scare me but there's loads o' those too, got yer Chinese Eyes in Arches, Cynthia in Zion, Spaceshot like the lady says, Headache, that's about all I got.
Hotline's alright too.
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 13, 2007 - 09:59pm PT
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Hey Warbler
Gripper ......
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Aug 13, 2007 - 10:11pm PT
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Wunsch's Dihedral
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 13, 2007 - 10:15pm PT
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Probably 1000 times he he he
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 13, 2007 - 10:19pm PT
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Y'all have a lot of nerve, openly talking about climbing on this forum.
Hard to beat Hot Line.
That pitch high up on Mount Watkins is pretty good.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Aug 13, 2007 - 10:25pm PT
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hey warbler -- if you like sportclimbing on granite, you ain't seen 'nuthin yet.....
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Aug 13, 2007 - 10:26pm PT
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I keep thinking there is a 200' 5.6 splitter hands waiting for me in the woods out there.
some day I'll find it. that will be the best one because by the time I find it, that will be all I can climb.
rawk on
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DixieGal
Trad climber
NC
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Aug 13, 2007 - 10:30pm PT
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1. Reppy's crack at Cannon Mountain in New Hampshire, 5.8 hands.
2. Second pitch of the Odyssey, Looking Glass, North Carolina, 5.9
hands.
3. There are two really good hand sized cracks at Poke-o-Moonshine
in upstate New York. First pitch of Gamesmanship (5.8) and the
second pitch of Paralysis (5.8).
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Aug 13, 2007 - 10:30pm PT
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Mungeclimber...For a brilliant 5.6 hand crack, do the RORP! Admission isn't free though.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 13, 2007 - 10:37pm PT
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Yes Kevin,
There might be a couple of hand jams out here Colorado, but I think Bob D. already tagged Wunsch's Dihedral on Cynical Pinnacle.
Although not a splitter, what about the Zebra on Tis Sa Ak?
I had big plans to free that when Shipley and I were up there, alas we were stormed off, but I remember sitting on my porta ledge, um our single porta ledge, totally ready to start jamming that sucker the next day, it starts out perfect hands...
I could have been a contender...
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 13, 2007 - 10:42pm PT
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I think I hammered a six inch aluminum bong end wise at the top of the Zebra.
How wide would that be?
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Aug 13, 2007 - 10:51pm PT
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Scorpio Crack,Drumstick Direct and Quivering Quill...South Platte area.
North Face, Castleton
Beefeater,Vedauwoo
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!