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duncan
Trad climber
London, UK
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Jul 24, 2007 - 06:58pm PT
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As requested, Honeymoon chimney. This is the fun and easy second pitch.
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Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
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Jul 24, 2007 - 09:05pm PT
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Has that On the Edge route on Half Dome seen many (or any) ascents other than the first?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jul 24, 2007 - 10:28pm PT
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Tami, if I go there, and I'm planning on it, we will take photos, which I will send to you, to inspire your illustrations, for any TripReport!
Pretty sure we potential AARP'ers already get discounts on depends.
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Jul 24, 2007 - 10:37pm PT
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Sounds like we got the peanut gallery staffed. Maybe when you get back from Wyoming, if you dont start a dental floss farm.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jul 24, 2007 - 10:58pm PT
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Werner "...And BVB, it was ying-yang. When me and Kauk did the FA I look at the potential second pitch and tell Ron we need to do that too.
Ron says no way Jose, and I say we must do it because it's there... "
So I have YOU to thank for that particular experience of dull agony!
Someday you're going to have to rescue somebody wedged in the Narrows. Anybody know of some stuck in the Chimney stories?
Here's my 40th birthday suffering story on Wild Thing
http://www.yosemiteclimber.com/WildThing!.html
Peace
karl
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Jul 24, 2007 - 11:07pm PT
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Love that Wild Thing.... one of the finest available. Did those last 3 pitches in the dark, no headlamp.... no pro (?) .... no worries.... I was with Shipley!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jul 24, 2007 - 11:18pm PT
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Russ writes..."Love that Wild Thing"
That sort of Love is a one night stand. How much would I have to pay you to take Sooz up it (if she was willing?)
If I ever agree to do (or at least lead) that pile again, somebody shoot me first please!!
Still, I'm glad I did it because being glad I did it doesn't mean any additional pain.
;-)
Karl
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 24, 2007 - 11:20pm PT
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Yep Karl
Herman was his name. Now he was that huge strong Mexican climber years ago that hung out in camp 4.
So he wants to do Astroman. OK I take him up there and we get up to the harding slot and I tell him he has to follow on the outside at that certain point because I know his chest is too big and he'll get stuck.
Well what yah know? He decides he can fit. I yell at him not to go any higher.
All he does is keep telling me he can do it. He's actually scared and doesn't really want to do that overhanging off width layback affair so he keeps on going until.
You guessed it, he's fuking stuck royal. Hahahaha
I untie from the anchor and down climb to him to calm him down as he's starting to hyperventilate terribly and he's also starting to panic uncontrollably.
Before heading down to him I set up a rudimentary hauling system that I could operate from his location. (pre grigri days)
So then I pull and talk and keep him calm all while slowly and surly he finally squeezes through.
He had badly bruised ribs from that ordeal.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Jul 24, 2007 - 11:38pm PT
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hahaha! That story of German (pronounced her-mon) is one of the things that has kept me off Astroman (that and I'm a puss and too weak, and saving it for the onsight freesolo).
Me and German were nearly the same size (he was still bigger) back then, but he was all go and I was all show.... he was a great guy and used to show up in the Valley with a big duffel bag full of "E-Beaners" as we called them.... some marginal Mexican climbing shoes...... he would sell his stash all summer in between doing one arm one finger pull ups. His English was broken at best, so we would ask him stuff all the time to translate for us... one day we go, "Hey German.... what does "chupa mi huevos" mean in Spanish..." He thinks on it a while to get the words just right and then with an almost Shakespeareian gusto he blurts out, "leek my balls". We were dying!!! We never did figure out whether he meant "leak" or "lick", and that was part of the charm.
I did Childhoods End with him once and I swear he never used a foothold... he was about as strong a dude as I've ever seen.
KB edit: I'd do that thing again... maybe me and Will will go do it..... and trail a line for ya. Is it safe? I mean rockfall safe, not melon cracking falls safe.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jul 24, 2007 - 11:45pm PT
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Couple more chimney shots...
Another shot of that Iron Messiah dealie, from above.
Love to get back and finish that one...we got rained off.
Crux pitch of Book of Friends in Sedona. Bit of chimney...
And the appropriately-named-for-this-thread Chimney Rock
Standard Route, Sedona. Check out that #5 Big Bro placement!!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jul 25, 2007 - 12:18am PT
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Ooooh...I almost forgot about this one too...
Screaming Basengi in Sedona. Only 5.8 and two pitches but sweeet!
There's a sort of fluff, short starting pitch, then you do the
incredibly fun second pitch, which is the analog of the chimney
shown in this picture (where the arrow is).
My buddy M. getting started...
And a ways up...it just keeps going and going for like 185 feet!
Short, but very cool.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 25, 2007 - 02:50am PT
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Nancy's Crack...
the chimney part...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 25, 2007 - 02:51am PT
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Avoid the chimney altogether, and clip the bolts...
bamas...
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Standing Strong
Trad climber
eternal bam nation
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Jul 25, 2007 - 03:53am PT
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bam-as?
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darshahlu
Trad climber
Irvine, CA
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Jul 25, 2007 - 11:37am PT
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Epinephrine
Higher Cathedral Rock
Lost Arrow Spire Direct
Williamson Rock Sport Climbing
Royal Arches
Intersection Rock JTree
Deerhorn Valley
Suicide
The Needles
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jul 25, 2007 - 01:14pm PT
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Were's the pics of the Waterchute, out at Josh, where many of us learned how to chimney and chicken wing?? Remember on the first ascent the bolts weren't there. Wolfe just ran it. That's right up there with the Zone.
JL
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jul 25, 2007 - 01:29pm PT
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Watergroove, CoR
Western Chimney, Smith
Longbow Chimney, Moab
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 25, 2007 - 09:22pm PT
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opening moves to full moon boogie??
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Jul 26, 2007 - 12:23am PT
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neat Deerhorn pics darshahlu - I'm always kinda surprised that people have gone/go out there and do those climbs - in the second one (starting Radical Pinnacle) it's evident that the foliage has grown quite a bit, funny, been ten years since I been there.
yes bvb - clear evidence that the menacing loose block is now gone for real - I had put a car jack behind it but only succeeded in making it look REALLY bad...LOL!
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Camp 4, Site 10
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Jul 26, 2007 - 02:32pm PT
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Chimney question for valley locals:
In the corridor behind Short Circuit if you keep walking back into it, there is a bolted route that you would chimney/stem between the two walls of the corridor. Bolts are on the right wall. What's the story on this thing?
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