Discussion Topic |
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 21, 2007 - 02:23pm PT
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The Spell, Warlock Dome, Needles, Kern County , Calif.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jul 21, 2007 - 02:30pm PT
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Chim-Chimney, Granite Mountain, AZ
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jul 21, 2007 - 03:53pm PT
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Legendary Brutus on the legendary Narrows, Steck-Salathe
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 21, 2007 - 04:37pm PT
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Last pitch of Rollercoaster Chimney at Midnight Rock, near Leavenworth, staying in the chimney/crack all the way. Allegedly "5.9". (There's a 5.7 face detour.) Peapod tightening into a downward flare to an offwidth. Uggh! Not a place for cameras, either.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 21, 2007 - 04:46pm PT
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How' bout that bombay chimney up on Hotline?
More like an overhanging flare, but you really do chimney it.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 21, 2007 - 04:53pm PT
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The desert chimneys are phenomenal,
W Face Castleton has good chimney & OW:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 21, 2007 - 05:14pm PT
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When Dave Katz & I did Chouinard Herbert, he (not me man I never get off route or make poor decisions, haha) went off route left at the start and went up the left side of Chessman Pinnacle. That was some pretty uncooth, burly chimney.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 21, 2007 - 05:17pm PT
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We use to venerate Lizard King, because of Yabo's report, as well as a whole host of Yabo wide stories: like the epic he had getting his knee stuck on that OW thing down by Parkline Slab? Ala Moana maybe?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 21, 2007 - 05:24pm PT
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Crowley,
Supertopian Prod took that shot.
He was my unsuspecting 2nd on a whole slew of wide stuff out this way. Guy had very little climbing experience and he never balked at all the wide which his apprenticeship garnered.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jul 21, 2007 - 06:23pm PT
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From my point of view, you guys are drawing too many distinctions. That pitch on hotline is flaring and wide, and why exactly is that not, offwidth? It's wide & flaring, so of course it's always offsize for some kind of jam. Sounds like the essence of offwidth, to me, but what do I know?
To paraphrase Janis: "It's all the same damn wide ..."
Realm of the Lizard king is a classic, Coz thought we did the third ascent not long after he and Werner thought they did the second (who really knows?)
But,
if you like that one, New Maps of Hell (vedauwoo) is very similar. Similar jams to a weird roof before you abruptly go wide. We did the second, not all that long after the first, (weeks? a year?) and I don't think it's had a third.
Chimneys rock, there is a place by Bluff Utah, that could become the chimney mecca,how's that for spilling the beans?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 21, 2007 - 06:49pm PT
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OW is too big to fist but too tight to get your hips in.
OW size then, is between the fist and the chimney.
So, from this simple description, may I proceed to the fantabulous logic that everything on either side of the OW, from fists down and tight squeeze up, is also OW, but the acronym stands for: On Width.
So whatever it might measure out at, it's either On Width or Off Width no matter how you measure up to it!
Ergo, you are correct Jay, it's all OW.
Yup, "Yesterday, today...it's all the same fucin' day man".
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 21, 2007 - 06:54pm PT
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'Dunno about Higbee, never met him.
Those chimney moves on Hotline are wild.
There's a similar pitch on the Dunn Route, Moses, that looks cool. My buddy, Clean Dan, instead of heading out the intimidating bombay on his lead, opted for a straight up tunnel through to a bizarre but secure stretch of 3 way chimney.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 21, 2007 - 07:01pm PT
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I know, it sounds weird.
Like an intersection of fissures, while inside, from several directions you could see light streaming in through the tower.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 21, 2007 - 07:14pm PT
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The Fissure Beck is cool; a chimney flare that is stout and not so straightforward. Wile contorting, stemming, chimneying, and maybe laybacking, I thought of Bachar's on sight solo...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 21, 2007 - 08:06pm PT
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Gary Carpenter in Moby Dick, Left 5.9 FA 1963 Kamps & Sacherer
the rating is a hoot!
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 22, 2007 - 12:19am PT
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I hate chimneys. I hate em.
Evil fuking things that make you hurt.
But still I go to them because they are on the way to the top .....
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 22, 2007 - 02:39am PT
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I think that Moby Dick, Left is slightly more vert than the picture shows judging from the way the cams are hanging... at 5.9 it is hard.
I liked Elevator Shaft, that was fun at 5.8 and easy if the dead verticallity of it doesn't jib you out too much.
First pitch of Entrance Exam (got to go back and finish it) at 5.9 caught my attention, but it sews up with modern gear.
Church Bowl Chimney, 5.6... go for it! first time I did I spent a lot of time convincing myself to move through the crux.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jul 22, 2007 - 05:36pm PT
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Joe Herbst on the FA of Deep Space, 1975:
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Jul 22, 2007 - 06:53pm PT
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Camp 4, Site 10
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Jul 22, 2007 - 06:57pm PT
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Nature finding himself "Between a Rock and a Hard Place" Joshua Tree.
(photo by Steelmnkey)
18 feet of grunting in Ipecac, Joshua Tree
(photo by the animal nickname guy)
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Jul 22, 2007 - 06:58pm PT
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those kick azzz elcapinmyazzz.... love that one of Nature!
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Camp 4, Site 10
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Jul 22, 2007 - 07:00pm PT
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Steve Van Sickle feeling the love in Generator Crack
Me getting spanked in Ahab
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Jul 22, 2007 - 07:05pm PT
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Right Side of the Worst Error gets my vote. As Worrell asked, anyone got a picture of that puppy? I sure don't. It was too dark in there...
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jul 22, 2007 - 08:02pm PT
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I once started up the Right Side but without planning to, tunneled through to the Left Side and finished up that. One of my best chimney days ever, deeply tiring however.
Nice pure climbing thread.
It was a dull Sunday at my office, installing new software, so I had time to check out ST. For a while today the front page was almost all climbing threads. We coulda made ST history.
But back to the chimneys ... here's a mellow one that really IS for everyone, the start to The Flake out in JTree.
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scuffy b
climber
The deck above the 5
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Jul 23, 2007 - 11:16am PT
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Just before I got to Chiloe's picture of the Flake, I'd decided
to post about the Flake.
It's certainly a favorite spot for people to get themselves into
trouble. Most people don't stay far enough outside (chimneying).
They see the possibility of a hand jam Way Way inside, then they
get to handjam off-width and chimny all at the same time, making
it about a grade harder.
When in doubt, stay out. Warbler touched on a good point.
If you can stem, stem.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jul 23, 2007 - 11:43am PT
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Prod
Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
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Jul 23, 2007 - 11:47am PT
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Yo Tar,
You sure that is the W. Face of Castleton? If so it isn't the crux, is it?
I cut my teeth (behind Roy) on the wide and have loved it ever since.
BTW Roy, Generator crack, which you recomended for my trip to Yosemite is 5.10b/c not 5.9 as you have it in your notes.
Prod
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grover
Social climber
Akanada
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Jul 23, 2007 - 12:29pm PT
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Love these photo-threads
one from the Rockies. Canadian Cookie.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 23, 2007 - 12:36pm PT
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what is the hardest chimney climb?
on this thread so far 10.96 at 5.10d (?) but I don't know... I'll check later tonight in the Yellow Guide
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Moof
Trad climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
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Jul 23, 2007 - 12:53pm PT
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Dear lord, someone bolted that crack!!
Seriously, how much did that suck to have to drill, unless it was a rap boltaed panty waste affair...
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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Jul 23, 2007 - 01:14pm PT
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My only chimney photo. At Peterskill, Minnewaska State Park, NY.
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Matt
Trad climber
the land where lois don't roam
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Jul 23, 2007 - 01:16pm PT
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love that photo in the 2nd post-
shorts and hand jammies?
i wonder if he had a different route in mind?
=)
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Hardly Visible
climber
Port Angeles
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Jul 23, 2007 - 02:20pm PT
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I like em, never crowded, cool on hot days, and once you figure out what works you just do it over and over again often with a no hands rest between every move.
clowning around on Moby Dick Left
Reeds Left
North Chimney Castleton
They also make nice frames for viewing scenery.
Slack center Route
Castleton
Below the narrows
I am planning on being in Yosemite in late Sept. to early Oct. anyone up fer a trip over to Elephant Rock?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 23, 2007 - 03:17pm PT
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Prod:
W Face Castleton crux was rattly kneebars in a good corner.
I think you swung into a wicked layback.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jul 23, 2007 - 03:21pm PT
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Another old fave --
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 23, 2007 - 03:38pm PT
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there is a rumor of an Elephant's day in the Valley once the Merced approach is doable (which will be early this year)...
...stay tuned...
....also, some loose talk about Basket Dome. But we'll have to wait for the waterfall to stop running.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Jul 23, 2007 - 03:41pm PT
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Ed has the secret plans.... we are still recruiting bold leaders and porters
(not guys humping loads, but nice dark beer)
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jul 23, 2007 - 03:49pm PT
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"I think you swung into a wicked layback."
OH Tar, tar, tar, shaking my head. Actually that's how Bill Bradshaw (RIP) followed it.
-tales of the darkside ...
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jul 23, 2007 - 03:52pm PT
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That Ed is so secretive, hope to be let into the loop.
The Waterfall rte fa, awaits perfect conditions, and symmetric face paint.
In any case I am on the train.
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Prod
Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
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Jul 23, 2007 - 05:01pm PT
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This is just above the Crux...
I think the pic of you (tarbuster) is from the 1st pitch.
Prod.
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flyingkiwi1
Trad climber
Seattle WA
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Jul 23, 2007 - 07:49pm PT
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A couple of Washington State classics:
Third pitch of The Lizard, Index. A joy once you've found your path; 20' of depair-in-the-flair til then.
Upper half of Damnation Crack, Leavenworth. Pure, heady, beautiful
5.9 chimney climbing up the (in)side of a detached pinnacle.
Nice thread, Todd. Hope you and yours are doing well. Seems like forever since I choss-creased Tucker's forehead while attempting a wide crack FA he gave me out at Queen Mountain. I don't know if it was that one or another one that I called Latifah. Get it? Heheh.
Best, Ian
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 23, 2007 - 10:24pm PT
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the Basket Dome waterfall is really a figment of imagination, a manifestation of youthful lust for life...
it's an inside joke...
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 23, 2007 - 10:25pm PT
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Not if it's raining hard .......
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Jul 23, 2007 - 10:28pm PT
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Not if it's hot and you are wearing shorts and a T back....
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 23, 2007 - 11:58pm PT
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The chilling chimney of horrors is Royal Robbins route on Higher Cathedral Spire.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 24, 2007 - 12:13am PT
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Higher Cathedral Spire - Northwest Face
VI, 5.8, A4. This face, the steep wall visible from the valley floor, was climbed June 1961 by Tom Frost and Royal Robbins. The route begins near the left margin of the face. Three pitches of mixed climbing (5.8, A2) lead to the base of the chilling Chimney of Horrors, a flared, overhanging slot. Exit from the chimney onto strenuous aid; the lead exits on a good belay ledge. Pitch 5: using aid, work right along prominent white flakes for about 50 feet, then nail straight up to a sling belay 50 feet higher. Next, a long, difficult aid pitch leads diagonally left to a belay stance 150 feet directly above the good belay ledge. The pitch above involves a leaning bong crack and ends in a sling belay. Pitch 8: nail an A2 crack and belay in slings at a short bolt ladder. Above lies a difficult aid pitch involving rurps, knifeblades, and expanding flakes. A 150-foot lead (A1, 5.7) ends at a small tree. Pitch 11: climb past a large pine tree, ascend a rotten pillar, then traverse right a few feet and climb a high-angle face (5.7) to ledges near the summit block. Hardware: 45-50 pitons, including rurps, knifeblades (4) and 8 bongs, up to 3".
Steve Roper
Climber's Guide to Yosemite Valley
page 242
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 24, 2007 - 03:27am PT
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Interestingly, the only chimney/flair climbs in Meyer's listed in Appendix II are:
5.9: Moby Dick, Left; Entrance Exam
5.10a: Handjob; The Riddler; Ahab
5.10d: 10.96
5.11b: On The Edge
I've been on a lot of these, and seen them all except On The Edge, which looks like it would be an amazing climb on Half Dome.
I must have seen Realm of the Lizard King before, but not recognized it...
...a slightly more complete list of chimney/flairs in Yosemite Valley
4 Juliette's Flake, Right
5.4 The Iota;
5.6 Chimney for Two; Church Bowl Chimney;
5.7 Kat Pinnacle, Northwest Corner; Gilligan's Chicken; Pat Pinnacle; Remnant, Right; Inner Reaches; Loggerhead Ledge; After Five; Pygmy Pillar; Uncle Fanny; North Dome, South Face;
5.8: Cool Cliff 170; Juliette's Flake, Left; Elevator Shaft; Just Scraping By; Dromedary; Split Pinnacle, East Arete; Tweedle Dee; Cid's Embrace; The Hanging Teeth; Church Bowl Chimney; Trial By Fire; Chockblock Chimney; Tilted Mitten, Right; The Syllable;
5.9: Parkline Pinnacle, Center Route; Entrance Exam; The Cookie, Right; The Cleft; Whim; Block Horror Picture Show; Chockstone Chimney; Peter Pan; La Cosita, Left; Mobby Dick, Left; Commissioner Buttress; Doggie Diversions; The Buttocks; Jolly Green Giant; Steck-Salathe; Tilted Mitten, Left; The Sphinxter; Worst Error, Left;
5.10a The Enigma; Free Press; Reed's Pinnacle, Left; The Reception; The Riddler; Nottingham; Absolutely Free, Right; Rixon's Pinnacle, East Chimney; The Girl Next Door, Left & Right; Geek Towers, Right Side; Lost Arrow Chimney; Milk Dud; Foaming at the Crotch; Lost Error; Right Side Route; Crack of Doom, Crack of Dispair;
5.10b Midterm; Moby Dick, Ahab; The Sermon;
5.10c Generator Crack; Bridalveil East;
5.10d The Gerbil Launcher; The Slack, Center; 10.96;
5.11b On The Edge;
5.11c Thin Line; Realm of the Lizard King;
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Jul 24, 2007 - 10:59am PT
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Church Bowl Chimney was my first chimney in the Valley (already had climbed chimneys on Mt Diablo), so I remember it somewhat fondly (kind of perverse, eh), but the photo of the Left Side of Reed also brought back memories.
I guess I would be lying if I said that I always wanted to do 1096. Looking at that thing has always given me the heebie jeebies (thatd be a good name for an off-width or chimney).
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 24, 2007 - 11:48am PT
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I've never been on the thing Tami, but you sure aren't making a good sell to get people up there to check it out!
Gotta think that if it was so tenuosly balanced to move around under a climber's influence that mother nature would have found a way to trundle it all herself. Stranger things exist, I guess... and you should know, you've climbed in Canada.
My card is pretty full up for the next decade or so, but I'll put it on the list of "Places Which Are Sure to Scare the Crap Out Of You" (sometimes refered to as the PWASSCOY list) and maybe I'll post sometime around 2020. Should have gone digital by then, if the cell coverage in the Valley ever gets better I might be able to upload from the summit (or live web cam?!).
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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Jul 24, 2007 - 11:51am PT
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Anyone have pics of the Honeymoon Chimney on the Priest? Starts on one side of the tower and goes all the way through to the other. Thats pretty cool. Did cost me a brand new pair of painter pants though....
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 24, 2007 - 12:08pm PT
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did 10.96 with john wason and then a week or two later did a hideous squeeze chimm with tom lindner -- it was either the 2nd pitch of manana or ying-yang -- can't remember which. but it was WAY harder then 10.96 and i think it was rated like 5.9 or something.
wide cracks....beware...here be dragons....
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Jul 24, 2007 - 12:56pm PT
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CD and me starting the chimney pitches on Ron's classic chimney route, Iron Messiah. Photo by PR, hisself.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jul 24, 2007 - 01:17pm PT
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Thanks for the Beta, Tami. I wanna go ride that chimbly, who's with me?
Warbler, that handcrack pitch on hotline is one of the best ever, anywhere.
But I dunno Beevb. I thought thasecond pitch of whatever was pretty straight forward, and way easier than 1096. (10b) Gotta be some reason no one ever does it, though. When we climbed it, circa Cyndi Lauper, there was a rap rope stuck on it. When I got to the top and pulled it out, it was incredibly sun damaged on one side, jt even felt noticably lighter than a regular rope, kinda lariat like too, heard it had been there for years, or something.
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 24, 2007 - 01:23pm PT
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Running it out again, eh? Jello and no gear on your rack.
Those old skool type guys always scaring the sh'it out of us.
And BVB, it was ying-yang. When me and Kauk did the FA I look at the potential second pitch and tell Ron we need to do that too.
Ron says no way Jose, and I say we must do it because it's there.
Ron says OK you can lead it but I'm knott going to follow this hunk.
But I made him follow, hee hee hee
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 24, 2007 - 02:13pm PT
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i dunno you guys, maybe i was having a bad day, but lindner led that 2nd pitch and i swear to god i barely scratched up it and was so worked that it signaled the premature end of our climbing day.
next morning i had sore muscles that i'd never even felt before. full-body pump like "whoa!"
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Jul 24, 2007 - 05:01pm PT
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I'll head up there with ya Jay.
Nothin like squirming up a chimney feeling like I'm gonna puke. Makes me feel alive.
Cheaper than therapy anyhoo...
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jul 24, 2007 - 05:17pm PT
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You'n me, spy, from entrance exam to post grad dynamics!
Bvb, who knows, maybe it's Chaos theory, I had one of those moments on Jerry Brown, couldn't touch it, word on the street is it's easy. We all have moments that someone else has sworn us to secrecy over. I've experienced both extremes on the same climb, more than once.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Jul 24, 2007 - 06:12pm PT
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Here is a better shot of the chimney up-thread (The Firewater Chimney). Yes, it is bolted. But, at 10b and 90+ feet (1.5 to 5 feet wide) and no gear, you will thankfully clip the 6 bolts. A chimney classic.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jul 24, 2007 - 06:17pm PT
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Cool! I've been known to bolt things like that, avoids stolbisistiskii, style mishaps.
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duncan
Trad climber
London, UK
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Jul 24, 2007 - 06:58pm PT
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As requested, Honeymoon chimney. This is the fun and easy second pitch.
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Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
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Jul 24, 2007 - 09:05pm PT
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Has that On the Edge route on Half Dome seen many (or any) ascents other than the first?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jul 24, 2007 - 10:28pm PT
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Tami, if I go there, and I'm planning on it, we will take photos, which I will send to you, to inspire your illustrations, for any TripReport!
Pretty sure we potential AARP'ers already get discounts on depends.
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Jul 24, 2007 - 10:37pm PT
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Sounds like we got the peanut gallery staffed. Maybe when you get back from Wyoming, if you dont start a dental floss farm.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jul 24, 2007 - 10:58pm PT
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Werner "...And BVB, it was ying-yang. When me and Kauk did the FA I look at the potential second pitch and tell Ron we need to do that too.
Ron says no way Jose, and I say we must do it because it's there... "
So I have YOU to thank for that particular experience of dull agony!
Someday you're going to have to rescue somebody wedged in the Narrows. Anybody know of some stuck in the Chimney stories?
Here's my 40th birthday suffering story on Wild Thing
http://www.yosemiteclimber.com/WildThing!.html
Peace
karl
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Jul 24, 2007 - 11:07pm PT
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Love that Wild Thing.... one of the finest available. Did those last 3 pitches in the dark, no headlamp.... no pro (?) .... no worries.... I was with Shipley!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jul 24, 2007 - 11:18pm PT
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Russ writes..."Love that Wild Thing"
That sort of Love is a one night stand. How much would I have to pay you to take Sooz up it (if she was willing?)
If I ever agree to do (or at least lead) that pile again, somebody shoot me first please!!
Still, I'm glad I did it because being glad I did it doesn't mean any additional pain.
;-)
Karl
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 24, 2007 - 11:20pm PT
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Yep Karl
Herman was his name. Now he was that huge strong Mexican climber years ago that hung out in camp 4.
So he wants to do Astroman. OK I take him up there and we get up to the harding slot and I tell him he has to follow on the outside at that certain point because I know his chest is too big and he'll get stuck.
Well what yah know? He decides he can fit. I yell at him not to go any higher.
All he does is keep telling me he can do it. He's actually scared and doesn't really want to do that overhanging off width layback affair so he keeps on going until.
You guessed it, he's fuking stuck royal. Hahahaha
I untie from the anchor and down climb to him to calm him down as he's starting to hyperventilate terribly and he's also starting to panic uncontrollably.
Before heading down to him I set up a rudimentary hauling system that I could operate from his location. (pre grigri days)
So then I pull and talk and keep him calm all while slowly and surly he finally squeezes through.
He had badly bruised ribs from that ordeal.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Jul 24, 2007 - 11:38pm PT
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hahaha! That story of German (pronounced her-mon) is one of the things that has kept me off Astroman (that and I'm a puss and too weak, and saving it for the onsight freesolo).
Me and German were nearly the same size (he was still bigger) back then, but he was all go and I was all show.... he was a great guy and used to show up in the Valley with a big duffel bag full of "E-Beaners" as we called them.... some marginal Mexican climbing shoes...... he would sell his stash all summer in between doing one arm one finger pull ups. His English was broken at best, so we would ask him stuff all the time to translate for us... one day we go, "Hey German.... what does "chupa mi huevos" mean in Spanish..." He thinks on it a while to get the words just right and then with an almost Shakespeareian gusto he blurts out, "leek my balls". We were dying!!! We never did figure out whether he meant "leak" or "lick", and that was part of the charm.
I did Childhoods End with him once and I swear he never used a foothold... he was about as strong a dude as I've ever seen.
KB edit: I'd do that thing again... maybe me and Will will go do it..... and trail a line for ya. Is it safe? I mean rockfall safe, not melon cracking falls safe.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jul 24, 2007 - 11:45pm PT
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Couple more chimney shots...
Another shot of that Iron Messiah dealie, from above.
Love to get back and finish that one...we got rained off.
Crux pitch of Book of Friends in Sedona. Bit of chimney...
And the appropriately-named-for-this-thread Chimney Rock
Standard Route, Sedona. Check out that #5 Big Bro placement!!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jul 25, 2007 - 12:18am PT
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Ooooh...I almost forgot about this one too...
Screaming Basengi in Sedona. Only 5.8 and two pitches but sweeet!
There's a sort of fluff, short starting pitch, then you do the
incredibly fun second pitch, which is the analog of the chimney
shown in this picture (where the arrow is).
My buddy M. getting started...
And a ways up...it just keeps going and going for like 185 feet!
Short, but very cool.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 25, 2007 - 02:50am PT
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Nancy's Crack...
the chimney part...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 25, 2007 - 02:51am PT
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Avoid the chimney altogether, and clip the bolts...
bamas...
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Standing Strong
Trad climber
eternal bam nation
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Jul 25, 2007 - 03:53am PT
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bam-as?
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darshahlu
Trad climber
Irvine, CA
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Jul 25, 2007 - 11:37am PT
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Epinephrine
Higher Cathedral Rock
Lost Arrow Spire Direct
Williamson Rock Sport Climbing
Royal Arches
Intersection Rock JTree
Deerhorn Valley
Suicide
The Needles
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jul 25, 2007 - 01:14pm PT
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Were's the pics of the Waterchute, out at Josh, where many of us learned how to chimney and chicken wing?? Remember on the first ascent the bolts weren't there. Wolfe just ran it. That's right up there with the Zone.
JL
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jul 25, 2007 - 01:29pm PT
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Watergroove, CoR
Western Chimney, Smith
Longbow Chimney, Moab
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 25, 2007 - 09:22pm PT
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opening moves to full moon boogie??
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Jul 26, 2007 - 12:23am PT
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neat Deerhorn pics darshahlu - I'm always kinda surprised that people have gone/go out there and do those climbs - in the second one (starting Radical Pinnacle) it's evident that the foliage has grown quite a bit, funny, been ten years since I been there.
yes bvb - clear evidence that the menacing loose block is now gone for real - I had put a car jack behind it but only succeeded in making it look REALLY bad...LOL!
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Camp 4, Site 10
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Jul 26, 2007 - 02:32pm PT
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Chimney question for valley locals:
In the corridor behind Short Circuit if you keep walking back into it, there is a bolted route that you would chimney/stem between the two walls of the corridor. Bolts are on the right wall. What's the story on this thing?
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 26, 2007 - 02:35pm PT
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Valley secrets like these are knott revealed here.
Ask Crowley, he probably knows. Hint Chuck Goldman
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2007 - 02:48am PT
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Michael D
Big Wall climber
Napoli, Italy
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Jul 27, 2007 - 08:16am PT
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Just did the Dulfer Route at Tre Cima Laveredo with a great buddy who opted to skip all leads on the chimney sections. It's wide, no or poor pro, long, and definitly R and X..the one thought I had the entire time "RIGHT ON, this Dulfer dude did it in mountain boots more than 50 years ago!"
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jul 27, 2007 - 08:16pm PT
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I wrote, regarding Wild Thing
"If I ever agree to do (or at least lead) that pile again, somebody shoot me first please!!"
Then Russ Wrote
"KB edit: I'd do that thing again... maybe me and Will will go do it..... and trail a line for ya. Is it safe? I mean rockfall safe, not melon cracking falls safe."
Compared to nutcracker it's certain death, compared to the North Face of the Eiger, it's totally bomber, and heck you're nestled in chimneys most the time. You just have to sneak to the base and up the approach pitches without getting smacked.
I'd love to watch you suffer even if it means my own suffering. Only a few conditions:
1. We need a rope gun, and I don't mean a small caliber rope gun that might not kill the prey so that it just gets angry and tears us to pieces. I'm talking WMD rope gun that's easy going, can keep a secret and won't laugh AT us but laugh with us.
2. None of my rack goes up the climb. We will bail before I have to lead squat, and we'll be leaving somebody else's swag.
3. Afterwards, we'll lie and exaggerate.
In the case above, I'll be delighted to join you. I won't be holding my breath though. Go find a piece of plywood and lie in the driveway with that plywood sheet over you and have a couple people jump up and down on it. If you still feel like wild thing, I wouldn't miss it.
oh and
4. Must be in the Fall or early winter so the Dogshit Pitch is dry!
peace
Karl
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jul 27, 2007 - 08:18pm PT
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I've never done the wild thing.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Jul 27, 2007 - 09:23pm PT
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Team of 4? or two teams of two?
Me and Will, and Jaybro and Karl..... We go first. Rope gun? right here baby..... Maybe Will and me will just set up a giant TR with my various 84m gun ship cords.... The Wild Thing can't be over 600ft tall right? Keep your calendars open.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jul 27, 2007 - 11:47pm PT
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Problem with cheating on Wild thing is that it traverses all over the place.
I might have to bring a personal #5 Camalot just to Wimp out on the 5.10c horizontal offwidth crux.
My calendar is open. Let's hope nobody says "call" on this poker game!
Peace
Karl
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 28, 2007 - 12:13am PT
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only 10c?! I call, when are we going guys!!
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Jul 28, 2007 - 02:23am PT
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Hey, how about meees?
24th of September works...
What'd'ya say?
B
p.s. wyde don't reefer to offwydths.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 28, 2007 - 02:29am PT
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what does wyde and offwidth have to do with reefer?
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 28, 2007 - 02:57am PT
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Way up thread, Ed in his usual thorough manner mentioned "On The Edge", a 5.11b chimney on Half Dome. Just below the right skyline as seen from Mirror Meadow, I believe. Must be exposed and then some.
FA Dale Bard and George Meyers, 1975. The topo says of the crux pitch "scary 5.11b flare". (As though there's some other kind.)
I asked Dale about it a few years ago, and he said (twinkle in his eye) "I really do like wide cracks", or something along those lines.
I wonder if it's ever been repeated?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jul 28, 2007 - 09:06am PT
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9/24? hmm
I remember, a long time ago, the colonel or someone introducing me to some guy who had climbed 'On the edge'
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Jul 28, 2007 - 09:33am PT
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I for one, would like to see the day when chimneys ARE for everyone...when they didn't discriminate based on religion or hand or knee size. I would like to see the day when every AMERICAN, if they choose, could get on the chimney of their choice and just DO it. Then again, it's probably fine the way it is.
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Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
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Jul 28, 2007 - 09:57am PT
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Yeah, and has anyone repeated On the Edge?
Must be an echo in here!
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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Jul 28, 2007 - 10:53am PT
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I could lead up the right side, carry your summit beers, and safely guide yer bloody carcasses back to terra firma if ya need.
Peter
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jul 28, 2007 - 11:19am PT
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I'd go with you guys to Wild Thing but on the 24th I'm already going to do Basket Case. Maybe we can show our scars later.
Zander
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 28, 2007 - 12:13pm PT
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'Pretty sure Shipley did On the Edge with a Colorado guy named Stu; Stu Ritchey maybe.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jul 28, 2007 - 12:14pm PT
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this is going to be more fun than a game of spin the geritol!
What about Sunday the 23rd?
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Camp 4, Site 10
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Jul 28, 2007 - 01:47pm PT
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Dogsh#t, rockfall zone, wide cracks...sounds tasty. Let me check my calendar...yup, it's clear from now into the forseeable future.
Now Karl, by "horizontal" do you mean roof or some traversing thing? Because wide roofs...mmm mmm good.
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Jul 28, 2007 - 02:04pm PT
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I can try to show up, and heckle if nothing else.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 28, 2007 - 04:01pm PT
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i think this will go...
don't be afraid
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jul 29, 2007 - 02:42am PT
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"Now Karl, by "horizontal" do you mean roof or some traversing thing? Because wide roofs...mmm mmm good."
It's a traversing Splitter #5 camalot or bigger sized crack with no feet. Just small enough that you can't get in. Gives me an uneasy feeling just thinking about it cause the second doesn't get much discount on it either.
Way exposed too.
Imagine a whole bunch of Supertopo fools gangbangin Wild Thing. It would sound like a porn film festival. If there's enough folks can I take pictures from the ground with a long lens?
Peace
Karl
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 29, 2007 - 12:43pm PT
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bring your wide angle and shoot in the bidness, no way you can get the grimaces shooting long from the ground
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Jul 29, 2007 - 01:56pm PT
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Nice thread, all.
I was always impressed with that easy, but remarkably exposed, bomb bay pitch on the Salathe that I think Tom Frost first led. Took some gumption to venture out there not knowing how hard it would turn out to be.
Tar and Warbler- I am with you regarding the Hotline pitch, a mean-looking, bottomless flare. Was glad to have a top-rope from Bardini on that one.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jul 30, 2007 - 12:17am PT
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I was psyched to get the lead. No way wheels was gonna lead that one, unless I made him do it, and he knew I wouldn't.
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 30, 2007 - 12:27am PT
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Yeah I agree Rick that Hotline chimney gave me the creeps every time I had to lead it.
Then! I found the variation that goes out left over a roof with some difficult jamming just to escape that thing.
I called it the Cozgrovel variation with Scott Cosgrove.
I also did a variation to the second pitch of that long hand crack. It's a thin finger and hand thing just to the left of the start of the hand crack.
So one can go over to Hotline and do a ton of sh'it including nightmare continuation, pink dreams and fatal mistake all on the same formation.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2007 - 11:19am PT
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girasol
Trad climber
Colorado Springs, CO
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Aug 17, 2007 - 03:21pm PT
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Nice pics guys, you are inspiring me!
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Aug 17, 2007 - 03:59pm PT
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I like chimneys! Here are a couple I particularly enjoyed:
600 feet of perfect chimney size on Epinephrine:
Only 3 feet (thankfully) of squeeze on Frigidair:
By the way, you can't tell from the pic, but the above is a no-hands, no feet rest. Need gear? Inhale! Ha!
GO
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
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Aug 17, 2007 - 05:30pm PT
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Why not just get to the sickest offwidths?
Human Sacrifice JT
or the sick thing at Dome Rock? Ron Carson's idea of a solo...
or
Paisano
or
The Titanic
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2007 - 08:58pm PT
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R. Vogel in Fire Glove.
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Aug 29, 2007 - 09:00pm PT
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Anyone done Shelob's Lair at Pie Shop? 5.9 ploose...
Here's the "classic" 5.8 first pitch "Mad Wife"...
Here's what the Lair is like...
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Aug 29, 2007 - 09:05pm PT
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Is the bear catholic?
Does the pope sheeyit in the woods?
Do parents promise to show up for their kid's iep's?
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Aug 29, 2007 - 09:08pm PT
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Chimneys are for everyone! Isn't there some NCLB law requiring parents to show?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Aug 29, 2007 - 09:09pm PT
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Who could, in good conscience, leave any chimbly behind?
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2008 - 10:13am PT
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Feb 28, 2008 - 02:02pm PT
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hey so do any of you Valley lunatics know of a chimney low down on one of the Cathedral Spires ( Lower?) called "the chilling chimney of horrors" or something like that? ?
Well tami, I followed Shaggy up it about 10 years ago. In typical martyr/hardman fashion, he said something like "hmmmm...Chimney of Horrors, i better lead that one' and him being the local, I let him. It doesn't move, no, but it is grainy anf pretty much without pro save the worst quarter-inch rust-stain I've had the pleasure to unclip in awhile.
The Robbins route we started referring to as Higher Excavations on account of its low-traffic feel. Someone had done it a few years before us-there was a relatively fresh quarter-incher at one of the belays- but many pitches were pretty much led with a nut tool. i cleaned on pin anchot by hand, that we bivied on. Eesh. Kind of an adventure in vertical archeology.
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wildone
climber
Where you want to be
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Feb 28, 2008 - 02:05pm PT
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ELCAPINYOAZZ-
That bolted chimney in the short circuit boulder was bolted by Hope Wolf, I believe. Super fun.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Feb 28, 2008 - 02:47pm PT
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Nice! I'll check that out this weekend after Short Circuit!
The hardest chimney for me, to date, was the horizontal chimney at the top of the 2nd pitch of Reed's... See, I have this tight spaces problem, to some degree (long story). A regular chimney is fine for me cause the air, light, freedom is right there. Even if I get in it a few feet it's OK.
However, that thing on Reed's is like 50-60' through and it's f*#king dark in there! I false-started that thing like 6 times before committing. I was afraid I was going to freak and fall in there, which would have been bad. No pro and the thing tapers tight. Basically, you're going to get ice cream-coned after about 40 feet. In the center it tightens down to the point I had to drop down a few feet, exhale strongly for each move and diagonal my way back up. Not technically hard at all, just hit a nerve. I was pretty stoked when I got to the other side. And the OW stuff on the other side of Reed's was cool!
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Feb 28, 2008 - 07:48pm PT
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sofaking tired of___ bump
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 13, 2008 - 02:31am PT
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bump
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2008 - 09:51am PT
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Apr 12, 2009 - 08:26pm PT
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Bump for an awesome thread!
Nurse Ratchet and I got out to Vedauwoo for the first time this past summer, and found a whole new playground. Thanks to Jaybro, Hartouni, and the rest of the gang for showing us around!
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smith curry
climber
nashville,TN
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Apr 12, 2009 - 08:40pm PT
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Where are the pix of Entrance Exam? Pretty classic.
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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Apr 12, 2009 - 09:23pm PT
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That shot weirded me out!!!! My first impression was....not a person with a headlamp, but....(this is a peek into my psyche) a superhuman clad in an allover black latex catsuit, including face mask, with glowing eyes.
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wildone
climber
GHOST TOWN
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Apr 12, 2009 - 10:25pm PT
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Just did the OW to radical chimney @ Calico Basin boulders. I don't know what it's called, but it is SO much fun. Anybody know it's name? I'm sure some of you know the one I'm talking about...big old split boulder above all the regular boulders on the approach to sunny and steep...
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Apr 13, 2009 - 11:44am PT
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Roller Coaster Chimney on Midnight Rock near Leavenworth, WA. The most famous chimney in the NW, and never seems to get done, to scary. I think it still has the original Beckey first ascent bolts in it. Anyone done it?
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M. Volland
Trad climber
Grand Canyon
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Does anyone know the name and FA info for the bolted chimney behind Short Circut?
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Mark, wildone about 10 posts above said Hope Wolf bolted it.
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wildone
climber
Troy, MT
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Uhh, top of the page bro. Scroll up. She's a guide in the meadows in the summer. She'll have more info I'm sure. But she bolted it.
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FTOR
Sport climber
CA
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did wild thing with the infamous edward drummond a lifetime ago. always wondered what would happen if you came off in one of those endlessly runout 5.8 valley chimneys. sure enough, on what i remember to be the last pitch, i come off due the slick coating of guano from the swifts nesting above, and rattle down the thing just like you think until i regain my footing and wedge in. fortunately, no damage done. cool route, definitely lives up to the name.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Once you go Chimney you'll never settle for just one wall again....
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Nov 28, 2011 - 09:24pm PT
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I love chimneys
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camtron
Trad climber
so cal
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Nov 28, 2011 - 10:06pm PT
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Unnamed 5.8 at Eagle Lake Cliff
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 22, 2011 - 12:31am PT
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chim chim-a-knee bump
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Dec 22, 2011 - 11:57am PT
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like skating on stilts
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Dec 22, 2011 - 09:22pm PT
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What a dramatic image, Rich.
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Lace
climber
las vegas, nv
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May 11, 2012 - 02:58pm PT
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bump for being happy that I just realized I've been at work for 3 hours and haven't done a damn thing..oh and for these purty little body swallowers
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Dr.Knox
Trad climber
Salzburg, Austria
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Pollock Pines, California
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ec
climber
ca
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Reeotch
Trad climber
4 Corners Area
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weezy
climber
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the squozen one, somewhere in AZ
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Byran
climber
Half Dome Village
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Bumping this to comment on the Chimney of Horrors.
Hey so do any of you Valley lunatics know of a chimney low down on one of the Cathedral Spires ( Lower?) called "the chilling chimney of horrors" or something like that? ? ? It was probably a second or third pitch to a route.
I remember doing the hike down from Middle Cathedral & looking up at a ferocious right-leaning monster hanging flake (?100+ feet high? ) which was rumoured to fekkin MOVE when you chimney'd inside of it. Protection looked like prayers.
Perhaps it was all a ghastly rumourbut there were some folks in the Seattle camp ( Julie Brugger & Pat Timson to name two) who ate 5.11 o/w crax for breakfast and had done climbs like The Wild Thing which made me physically ill to even look at. So I thought anything was possible including a 100-ton hanging flake that moved........
Anyone heard of the chilling chimney of horrors?
Cheers, Tami
I did the NW Face last year, of which the CoH is the 3rd pitch. It definitely didn't move at all, its such a huge feature that its hard to imagine how a human could exert any sort of influence on it. Its reputation comes from the pre-cams days when it couldn't be protected, much like the "infamous" Crack of Doom. Nowadays you can French free up the entire thing with mostly a #5, and a #6 near the top. I think it goes free at 5.9 or something moderate, but I just pulled on the cam the whole way up except for a short section where it's wider and has a protection bolt (probably the only pro Robbins had for a 100ft section). The climb is well worth doing. Great position and a good one for the warmer months. Some of the aid pitches in the middle of the route are sort of tricky but with clean falls.
And here's some other Valley chimneys I recommend...
Left Side of the Folly. From the ground you can see the 250ft splitter S-curve wide crack at the top. Its every bit as clean and perfect as it looks. Some of the approach pitches are pretty rad as well.
The West Face of Sentinel. The "Dog Leg" cracks are close to 300ft of shallow chimney and groove climbing (sustained 5.8-5.9). Super classic. The rest of the route is great too.
Peter Pan. At the west base of El Cap. Rope length or so of really clean chimney climbing. "The Slack" also has a couple great routes, the Left (hard) and Center (easy, if you start by climbing Sacherer Cracker).
The Right Side of the Hourglass is another good one that's quite strenuous.
The Cleft. The first first-ascent at the Cookie. The last two pitches are really fun deep cavernous chimneys. Watch out for poison oak on one of the middle pitches.
Elephant Rock. The crag that's most stacked with great chimney climbs. Crack of Doom, Despair, both sides of the Worst Error. Trundling Juan has an amazing wide crack that more of a wide OW (with knobs to stem on) but there's also a good bit of proper squeezing on that pitch.
Sentinel Creek might be the next best crag for chimneys. Mental Block, Yin Yang (p2), Pharaoh's Beard, Tilted Mitten are all great.
Or maybe Camp 4 Wall is the next best with Edge of Night, Doggie Do, Fallout (haven't climbed yet, but it looks good) Tweedle Dee, and some sections of of great chimneying on Henley Quits and Secret Storm. I used to run laps on that bottom 40ft of Doggie Diversions to learn how to move smoothly in squeezes. After 10 laps or so you really start refining your technique to avoid any more abrasion to the knees and elbows.
Edit: and does anyone know what climb that is in the first photo that Norwegian posted (up higher on this page). Something off-the-deck on El Cap I presume? Looks really good.
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