Bombs Over Tokyo

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bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - May 23, 2007 - 08:54am PT
I was just looking at 'Bombs Over Tokyo' in the New Reid-Falkenstein Tuolumne Guide.
They have the original line listed as "aid" - which is not the case. I freed this in 1985 (or so). They also list me as having freed the so called "free variation" (5.13a) below the original line on the third pitch (which follows bolts placed below the horizontal crack by Clevenger and Fiddler after they aided the original line). This is also incorrect as I have never even attempted this variation. Vern and Claude were unsuccessful at free climbing either of these pitches.

Question is: Has anyone done this free variation? ('Bombs Under Tokyo' ???)

Also: Has anyone repeated the original horizontal crack (5.12d)? Wolfgang Gullich was unsuccessful when he tried it in the late '80's and I've never heard of anyone else even trying it.

Just curious, jb


Free climbing the original horizontal in 1985 (or so)...Photo: Phil Bard
L

climber
A small kayak on a very big ocean
May 23, 2007 - 09:07am PT
That is such a classic photo of you, John! Glad to see you haven't changed much.
WBraun

climber
May 23, 2007 - 09:14am PT
I free soloed it last year in my flip flops.
James

climber
A tent in the redwoods
May 23, 2007 - 09:15am PT
John,
You know Charlie Barrett? If he's not in too much trouble these days, he might know. He's been up there.
bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2007 - 09:15am PT
Congratulations Werner....did you use chalk?

James - thanks for the tip!
Anastasia

Trad climber
California
May 23, 2007 - 10:11am PT
bump...
Meaty

climber
May 23, 2007 - 10:11am PT
Wolfgang said he did that pitch, since he is no longer around I must come to his defense. Accusations that he didn't free that pitch are in really bad taste from you John considering he told you that he did, I was there when he told you. Are you calling Wolfgang a liar? How pathetic! Wolfgang never had any reason to lie, always a very humble person. It is your opinion that he didn't climb that pitch and it is beyond pathetic to claim he failed. Maybe if you had shown up earlier when you went sneaking around the base of Daff Dome you would've seen him free the climb. Instead what you saw, and still after all these years claim was a failure, was Wolfgang going back up to retrieve his gear after letting his partner give the pitch a go, you missed his ascent. He explained that to you and I was there when he did so, calling him a liar after all these years just shows absolutely no respect. I have a lot of respect for the honesty that Wolgang always displayed, he told you the truth when he said he freed the pitch and I believed him and have no reason to think he was lying.
scooter

climber
B loop site 15
May 23, 2007 - 10:20am PT
Meaty-
First time I have seen a post from you. I will be back in CA in a little more than a week. Gonna get the the crew together for a tri tip and beer fest. Hope you can hang. Not on the rope of course. That is for me to do.

Pat
Meaty

climber
May 23, 2007 - 10:21am PT
Hi Pat! Sounds good, I will see you soon.
Anastasia

Trad climber
California
May 23, 2007 - 10:35am PT
Dude,
I have a personal relationship with John. I know his faults and lying is not one of them. In fact, his greatest fault is telling the truth even when he should be more politically correct. (Trust me when I say that we have had a few very uncomfortable moments because of this.)

Even when the truth is going to make things hard for him, he still always tells it. So the idea that he would lie about a climb and in the same breath lie about a good friend of his...
If you know Bachar, you would know that is impossible.
AF

bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2007 - 10:38am PT
Meaty - with all due respect I did witness his attempt and unfortunately he did not redpoint the pitch in question. He did rest on the rope at the start of the horizontal traverse before continuing ( he definitely freed both "sections" of that particular pitch). You can call me a liar but I saw what I saw and I stick by it. He was not retrieving his gear either. I watched his entire ascent from the ground up by the way - he was not there earlier as you claim. An hour later, I saw him at Low Profile Dome and he told me he had just redpointed the pitch without falling or hanging. I really don't know what to say.

Wolfgang was a great human being and an extraordinary climber and I have much respect for him and his accomplishments.

Peace, John
Anastasia

Trad climber
California
May 23, 2007 - 11:11am PT
Hey Meaty,

If you ever heard multiple witnesses describe an accident, you will also know there are many versions of the same story. All of which are described honestly.

Sorry for not knowing who you are... Would you please give your true identity since it might help clarify things?

Anastasia
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 23, 2007 - 11:19am PT
Bombs Over Tokyo, what a line; I remember when Vern & Claude were focused on it.

There's quite a few things that you freed John, which were striking and seldom repeated; many of the names I can't remember, but Bombs Over Tokyo, Moon Germs down at Elephant, maybe Crossroads, various stuff in the Meadows, like Body & Soul & Love Supreme? come time mind.
dirtineye

Trad climber
the south
May 23, 2007 - 12:03pm PT
BUmp for a real climbing thread
Anastasia

Trad climber
California
May 23, 2007 - 12:35pm PT
Bump...
Still waiting for Meaty to respond. I want to hear the whole story about this mix up and I want to know who he is to research this. (Meaty, I hope you don't find that threatening.)
AF
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
May 23, 2007 - 12:41pm PT
I remember running into Verne and Claude after yet another unsuccessful attempt to free the route. Claude just looked over at me and said, "we have to learn how to grip harder!". Classic.

Bruce
bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2007 - 01:01pm PT
Sorry folks about the whole Wolfgang thing - I shouldn't have mentioned the controversy anyway - I have my story, he has his and it's besides the point of this thread anyway.

I was mainly just curious if anyone has done the 'Bombs Under Tokyo' variation (for lack of a better name). I saw some photos on Falkenstein's Tuolumne website of someone on the variation, but don't know if they were actually successful.

I kind of wanted to try the route but also realize it may not have even been free climbed yet because the Reid - Falkenstein Guide says I freed it at 5.13a (when I actually have not done so). They also say it is not often repeated - meaning maybe someone out here knows someone who has done it or tried it? It does look like a good pitch by the way. Peace, jb
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
May 23, 2007 - 01:10pm PT
meaty = snooky
Anastasia

Trad climber
California
May 23, 2007 - 02:04pm PT
He won't say so he must be insecure about his own position.
Anyway no matter who is "actually right with what they saw," I am sure other people saw the event so the truth will comes out.
Beyond that,
I want to hear more about "Bombs Over Tokyo."
I saw the route and it gave me the Heebie Jeebies. Who else has been on it?
AF


jghedge

climber
May 23, 2007 - 02:23pm PT
I remember hearing about that parking lot confrontation from 2 guys who were there, both famous climbers. It is pretty pathetic to suggest Wolfgang would lie, if he says he did it, he did it and that's that. Meanwhile the most notorious lying climber in the country is sponsored by Acopa - go figure.
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