Bombs Over Tokyo

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 42 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
My Name Is Drew

Big Wall climber
Dogtown, LosAngeles, CA.
May 23, 2007 - 05:32pm PT
I much prefer stukas over disneyland, me.
http://www.overgroundrecords.co.uk/Catalogue/OVER76CD.jpg
scooter

climber
B loop site 15
May 23, 2007 - 05:38pm PT
Drew = nazi
My Name Is Drew

Big Wall climber
Dogtown, LosAngeles, CA.
May 23, 2007 - 05:46pm PT
it's a PUNK album and what's more a clever pun.
nevermind.
Anastasia

Trad climber
California
May 23, 2007 - 06:19pm PT
Well then, I will step away from this. Not worth beating up a dead horse.
Peace,
Anastasia

randomtask

climber
North fork, CA
May 23, 2007 - 06:24pm PT
jghedge...dude, you need to get over it. M.Reardon does his thing you do yours. Do you need a hug??

Any more pics of the route??? Looks like a good one!
-JR
susan peplow

climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
May 23, 2007 - 06:37pm PT
Dimitri, stirring the pot or just passing time. Either way, it's good to see you on the Taco.

~Susan
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 23, 2007 - 06:48pm PT
Yes, more pictures would be nice.

Hey wait-a-minute.
Sooze said Da Meat Head is posting up?
Cool. Now which poster is he...

Hi Dimitri,
Long time.
-Roy.
susan peplow

climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
May 23, 2007 - 06:52pm PT
Roy, I could be wrong but based on the topic.....sounds like the meat we love now doesn't it?

~Susan
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
May 23, 2007 - 06:56pm PT
nice pic JB,
must be a hard climb - I see leg-loops.
L

climber
A small kayak on a very big ocean
May 23, 2007 - 06:58pm PT
Dimitrius has come to play?!?! Where's he?
WBraun

climber
May 23, 2007 - 07:31pm PT
So

Back in the day while I was flying my B52 bomber over Tokyo, I saw a Bachar getting stung by that mosquito suicide squadron.

I opened the bomb bay doors and annihilated those little pesky bugs so the Bachar could make the crux move.

Yep, those were the daze my friends, we thought they'd never end ....
bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2007 - 07:45pm PT
Werner - I forgot to thank you for that - those mosquitos sure know how to bite!
euro-brief-guy

climber
mountain view, ca
May 24, 2007 - 01:02pm PT
Hey Meaty,

Poker game at the Mini's this Sat night. Join Tom, Mini, Neil Jingy, Candyman and I. You've been missing from the game too long.

Steve
HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
Arid-zona
May 24, 2007 - 01:58pm PT
Redpoint drama aside...



...John I'd really love to hear the full story on the first ascent and other early attempts of this route. I spent several summers in the Meadows and have done the one pitch variation to Bombs many times. The rest of the route was always hanging above me like a a great mystery. It looks horrifying up there and I never heard about anyone ever trying it. I could only stand there and imagine some superhuman rock warrior blasting off into oblivion on desperate and unknown terrain.


So what's the deal?
G_Gnome

Trad climber
Knob Central
May 24, 2007 - 06:15pm PT
bump for a climbing thread...
bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2007 - 08:10pm PT
HighDesert - Not much to say. I watched many times when Vern and Claude would try to free the aid line. They put bolts in below across some knobby face and tried that too. It got left alone for a season or two and I decided to give the aid line a go. A well protected boulder problem (12a/b) followed by some really small dime edge handholds on the traverse (12c) leads to a long pumpy hand traverse around the prow. Pretty cool location and well protected until the last move, a 10c mantle to the belay. It took me many days to do the whole thing in one push - I kept falling at the start of the traverse after doing the bouldering section. Finally made it one day and continued to the summit (more great 5.10 climbing near the prow for two pitches).

Anyway, I repeated it for photos and have never done it again. Haven't heard of anyone else doing it to this day. I'm sure nowadays there are tons of climbers that could walk it.

I also have never heard of anyone doing the low variation across the bolted knobs(Bombs Under Tokyo?). It looks real good too (and well protected). Someone must know something about this?
HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
Arid-zona
May 24, 2007 - 08:33pm PT
Did you use those fixed pins? It looks like a graveyard up there with rusty pins and bail webbing hanging out of them. It's probably more ominous now than it was before it was ever done.
bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2007 - 09:20pm PT
Yeah there was a fixed blade at the first bouldering section (and a bolt) and there were a few fixed pins in the traverse - like buried to the hilt angles. The traverse takes cams quite easily however. I think Barnes replaced the blade and the bolt but I'm not sure....
Greg Barnes

climber
May 25, 2007 - 01:05pm PT
We re-seated all the pins on the route including the ones on the traverse on the aid/Bachar free route, except the #1 knifeblade protecting the 2nd pitch. We replace that with a brand-new #1 in the same place, at Clevenger's request. I had seen that pin from below many times, and I had always thought it was a long bomber pin. Since the pin sticks out and could catch/rip into you if you fell on it, since it would rust and freeze-thaw its way out sooner or later, and since I thought that it was a deep, bomber pin, I asked Clevenger if we should replace it with a 1/4" buttonhead with stainless SMC hanger. He told me no way, that it was only a #1 knifeblade not a good pin, and that would totally change the nature of the route. Once I knew that it was a #1, I felt totally stupid for even asking him, but in any case it's a new #1 knifeblade.

I think that Joi said that she and Charlie had worked Bombs Under Tokyo but hadn't freed it, but I don't know if Charlie went back or not.

One very interesting note on the Bombs Under Tokyo variation. It climbs from the belay (clipping first bolt of the original aid/Bachar free route), then around right on an exposed hand traverse rail. Then it heads up and right along the edge of the roof on tiny edges. When we replaced the bolts on that, the first bolt was AFTER pulling obviously 5.12 moves up around the corner - super hard looking and no pro. It didn't look even remotely possible especially from the ground-up bolting perspective. I started looking at the end of the hand traverse rail, and sure enough, I found a blown-out 1/4" hole right where you'd place a bolt. It looked like someone took a whipper and ripped the bolt. A good-sized pendulum fall must have resulted. Anyone know that story?
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Aug 29, 2013 - 01:18am PT
Bump


Edit- Charlie, you lurker. Pipe up.
Messages 21 - 40 of total 42 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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