Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Manimal
climber
SLT, Ca
|
|
Sacherer cracker. Base of el cap. Has it all. Tips, fingers, fists, and ow to the anchors. Five star.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
M. Volland speaks truth!
|
|
TwistedCrank
climber
Dingleberry Gulch, Ideeho
|
|
widecrack training:
Insert body as far as it'll go. Grunt. Repeat.
|
|
Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
|
|
I do recall my 1965 conversation with Pratt, sitting around a campfire and drinking wine: he was speaking in terms of reverential awe of the latest FA that he'd done, which was Chingando. The telling of that tale led to a devout but temporary avoidance of the route due to it's then-unprotected nature. Only a single 6" aluminum bong placced lengthwise, went the tale. We were all somewaht worse for wear due to alcohol consumed when the meaning of the word came up. I was clear about the term "f*u*c*k*e*r" being involved. I also believe that Chris Fredericks may have appended the "Mother" part of the description. But...WTF...it's only been 47 years now and maybe old age and senility are setting in? The only other witnesses to the conversation were Frank Sacherer (RIP), Chris Fredericks (location unknown), Peter Williamson (RIP), and a couple others who I don't really recall.
|
|
Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
|
|
What brokedown said sounds about right. And I might have been one of the people
there that he doesn't remember. Or it could have been another night and a
different bottle of wine.
I do know that the name went with the severity of the climb and that Chuck had
learned that word from Chinourd who had said it would be a great name for a route.
It was certainly thought for a long time that any route Pratt gave a name like that to
was definitely to be feared.
Pratt himself was extremely pleased with both the climb and the name.
|
|
phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
|
|
Does "The Riddler" at Little Wing qualify as an offwidth/flare? Even though the nice crack far in the back eliminates the need for big gear, I remember having a lot of my body involved in the climbing.
|
|
Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
|
|
Correct me if I'm mistaken, but I always thought that Chuck Pratt said that "Chingando" meant "Huge Gaping C_nt"? Look it up in the OED.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
For what its worth, From wiki answers.com
What is the translation for the spanish phrase chingando?
In: English to Spanish [Edit categories]
Answer:
Vulgar term that means to have sex (at least in Dominican Republic).
|
|
Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
|
|
Bruce-
What's the OED?
As for Chuck changing the meaning, he must have been in one of his bitter at women moments if he said that.
When he was in a good mood, he definitely went with the more usual meaning -
an interesting study in Freudian psychology no doubt.
|
|
Robbie
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2012 - 01:33am PT
|
reporting in: spent the last 3 years living in Wyoming and climbing in vedauwoo. finally getting comfortable with the wide. now, living back in reno, i will see how it goes in the valley.
|
|
PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
|
|
|
Mar 14, 2012 - 07:57pm PT
|
What's the OED?
Oxford English Dictionary. Can also refer to Obsessive English Disorder or Obsessively Eccentric Disorder :-)
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!