Be thankful of the crags, and teeth you have... TR

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Prod

Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
Topic Author's Original Post - May 8, 2007 - 01:51pm PT
The majority of the bed rock in Michigan is covered by sedimentary rock formed by seas or filled in with left over debris of glaciation. However in the Western UP (Upper Peninsula), there are outcrops of igneous and metamorphic Precambrian rock (3.5 billion yrs old +/-) known as the Canadian Shield. These crags are sparsely scattered across the U.P. and max out at around 80’, mostly in the 40 range though. The Western UP is about 4 hours from my house. After considerable research I located the AAA Wall aka Buds Wall, reported to be the best of the Michigan Crags. Cliff side camping and all. The whole area is a little over a ¼ mile long consisting of 7 or 8 viable faces ranging in height from 30’ to 70’ slab to overhanging, all pretty solid rock quality. There are currently 7 bolted routes but the potential is there for at least another 40, and top ropes look like they would set up pretty easily. Of the 7 sport routes the 3 furthest to the left looked and felt 5.8ish maybe 5.9 if you really stuck to the line, then as you move right there are 2 more that look like 10ish, followed by the 2 nicest routes, steep .10d / 11a-ish. We had the intention of climbing all of them , but here is what happened…..

Christa on her first lead 5.8 ish,

Then me leading another 5.8 ish.

After we finished the 3 easy sport climbs we headed for the main wall.

The first route we looked at was one of the 11a’s. Christa decided that she wanted to give leading it a shot. She was looking great at the crux between the 2nd and 3rd bolt, clips the draw, comes down to a rest stance, heads back up to clip the rope… and loses a foot at the worst imaginable time, can you guess from the pic. what happened?

Followed by a short drive to cellular range and a call to a dentist who said there is literally nothing they can do, prompted us to head back up to camp, we got a little drunk….

The next morning went something like this, I hung my way up to the top, cleaned the draws we left behind the day before and belayed Christa on top rope. On the way home we found a great bouldering area called the Little Presque Isle, it requires a wade across some really cold water but the granite has sh#t loads of potential from cool arets to OW and crimpy pulls. Then on the main Presque Isle there is a 80’+/- basalt slab climb that apparently goes at .10b.

I know it isn’t much but it’s all I got around here.

Prod.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
May 8, 2007 - 01:53pm PT
OMG!!!
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
May 8, 2007 - 01:55pm PT
Pretty nice looking area. "Dr. Cuervo you're needed in the ER".
L

climber
NoName City and It Don't Look Pretty
May 8, 2007 - 01:58pm PT
Oooooooowwwwwwwwwwww...that's gotta hurt! But nice job Christa, getting back on the bronco that took your tooth!
pc

climber
East of Seattle
May 8, 2007 - 02:04pm PT
Great TR! Amazing how teeth can be surgically removed like that. My daughter did a swan dive off her bed to the hardwood floor with the same result. No other teeth, nose, cheek, etc. damage. Root and all...

pc
christa Marsh

Sport climber
traverse city, mi
May 8, 2007 - 02:42pm PT
i just wish i had the tooth; that a been a keeper!
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
May 8, 2007 - 02:51pm PT
Man, you must be made of tough stutt to take that in stride, like that.

Maybe you can get a prosethetic tooth made out of a petoskey stone.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
May 8, 2007 - 02:55pm PT
if you write a note for the tooth fairy letting her know you lost the tooth then put the note under your pillow i bet she'll leave you a gold dubloon or two.

(hey, maybe you can melt one down and use it for a pimp gold tooth to replace your missing one. you can look like fitty cent 'n stuff.)
Fletcher

Trad climber
Varied locales along the time and space continuum
May 8, 2007 - 02:55pm PT
Yoiks!!!!!!
TwistedCrank

climber
Hell
May 8, 2007 - 02:57pm PT
A TR that reads like a fairy tale! Right on right on right on.
AbeFrohman

Trad climber
new york, NY
May 8, 2007 - 03:02pm PT
i was not so lucky in trying to eat rocks.

creetur

climber
CA
May 8, 2007 - 03:19pm PT

holy kittens! did that happen because she fell w/ the rope in her teeth?

apparently that happened at wild iris on the 5.10 wall several years ago--someone took a winger just before she clipped--bit down, and pulled out her two front teeth and the part the mouth that held them in. as conrad says, "the horror!"

you go girl for getting back on that wall. i'm impressed.
G_Gnome

Trad climber
Knob Central
May 8, 2007 - 03:44pm PT
Happened in the gym last year to a friend of mine. If you fall, spit REAL hard!
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
May 8, 2007 - 03:47pm PT
Yeah, I know of a guy who did that rope-in-the-teeth trick while falling at Smith a couple years back. Gack, that's one of my long standing nightmares. One of my standard bits of advice for the youth is "You know, when you get older, you're gonna wish you took better care of your teeth"
RRK

Trad climber
Talladega, Al
May 8, 2007 - 04:53pm PT
they can fix that hole - see a different dentist for some bridgework (not cheap which is why I've still got some holes but not in the front - I got those all fixed which is why I know that a dentist with a kid in college can fix most anything). She's too pretty to be walking around with a gap.


RRK

Prod

Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2007 - 06:26pm PT
Hey Creatur,

You guessed it, rope in teeth! The amazing thing is that it didn't do anything else, no rope burn or rope smacks anywhere.

Yo RRK,

Not to worry she will be just as pretty, pretty soon. I should have said that her dentist said there is nothing she can do right now. Christa has been to the dentist since we have been back home and is going to the oral surgeon tomorrow. She can fill you in on the details of how to and how much. For now she's my little toothless angle.

Prod

Side note, we drank the Tequila on Quatro de Mayo, one day early....
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 8, 2007 - 06:37pm PT
You guys party.
Crimpergirl

Social climber
Hell on earth wondering what I did to deserve it
May 8, 2007 - 08:46pm PT
Ewww! Now I'm woozy!!

A few years ago I was sitting on the porch at the Gendarme at Seneca Rocks. Just as I was bringing a bottle of beer to my mouth for the big guzzle, my then-boyfriend turns quickly towards me and accidentally elbows the bottle right into my mouth. OW. I pull the bottle back and am shocked to see that it hit my front tooth so hard that I chipped the bottle! No...wait... OMG!!! The bottle wasn't chipped at all. That was tooth debris on the bottle. My front tooth was totally chipped. In West Virginia. Lots of jokes ensued about how I fit in then.
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
May 8, 2007 - 09:01pm PT
That Christa gal seems like a keeper, Prod. Tough, pretty, with a sense of humor, and knows when it's appropriate to drink alchohol. Great TR!
Gene

climber
May 8, 2007 - 09:48pm PT
Definitely a "Women of Climbing" calandar finalist.
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