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Prod
Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 8, 2007 - 01:51pm PT
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The majority of the bed rock in Michigan is covered by sedimentary rock formed by seas or filled in with left over debris of glaciation. However in the Western UP (Upper Peninsula), there are outcrops of igneous and metamorphic Precambrian rock (3.5 billion yrs old +/-) known as the Canadian Shield. These crags are sparsely scattered across the U.P. and max out at around 80’, mostly in the 40 range though. The Western UP is about 4 hours from my house. After considerable research I located the AAA Wall aka Buds Wall, reported to be the best of the Michigan Crags. Cliff side camping and all. The whole area is a little over a ¼ mile long consisting of 7 or 8 viable faces ranging in height from 30’ to 70’ slab to overhanging, all pretty solid rock quality. There are currently 7 bolted routes but the potential is there for at least another 40, and top ropes look like they would set up pretty easily. Of the 7 sport routes the 3 furthest to the left looked and felt 5.8ish maybe 5.9 if you really stuck to the line, then as you move right there are 2 more that look like 10ish, followed by the 2 nicest routes, steep .10d / 11a-ish. We had the intention of climbing all of them , but here is what happened…..
Christa on her first lead 5.8 ish,
Then me leading another 5.8 ish.
After we finished the 3 easy sport climbs we headed for the main wall.
The first route we looked at was one of the 11a’s. Christa decided that she wanted to give leading it a shot. She was looking great at the crux between the 2nd and 3rd bolt, clips the draw, comes down to a rest stance, heads back up to clip the rope… and loses a foot at the worst imaginable time, can you guess from the pic. what happened?
Followed by a short drive to cellular range and a call to a dentist who said there is literally nothing they can do, prompted us to head back up to camp, we got a little drunk….
The next morning went something like this, I hung my way up to the top, cleaned the draws we left behind the day before and belayed Christa on top rope. On the way home we found a great bouldering area called the Little Presque Isle, it requires a wade across some really cold water but the granite has sh#t loads of potential from cool arets to OW and crimpy pulls. Then on the main Presque Isle there is a 80’+/- basalt slab climb that apparently goes at .10b.
I know it isn’t much but it’s all I got around here.
Prod.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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OMG!!!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Pretty nice looking area. "Dr. Cuervo you're needed in the ER".
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L
climber
NoName City and It Don't Look Pretty
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Oooooooowwwwwwwwwwww...that's gotta hurt! But nice job Christa, getting back on the bronco that took your tooth!
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pc
climber
East of Seattle
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Great TR! Amazing how teeth can be surgically removed like that. My daughter did a swan dive off her bed to the hardwood floor with the same result. No other teeth, nose, cheek, etc. damage. Root and all...
pc
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christa Marsh
Sport climber
traverse city, mi
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i just wish i had the tooth; that a been a keeper!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Man, you must be made of tough stutt to take that in stride, like that.
Maybe you can get a prosethetic tooth made out of a petoskey stone.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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if you write a note for the tooth fairy letting her know you lost the tooth then put the note under your pillow i bet she'll leave you a gold dubloon or two.
(hey, maybe you can melt one down and use it for a pimp gold tooth to replace your missing one. you can look like fitty cent 'n stuff.)
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Fletcher
Trad climber
Varied locales along the time and space continuum
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Yoiks!!!!!!
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TwistedCrank
climber
Hell
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A TR that reads like a fairy tale! Right on right on right on.
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AbeFrohman
Trad climber
new york, NY
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i was not so lucky in trying to eat rocks.
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creetur
climber
CA
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holy kittens! did that happen because she fell w/ the rope in her teeth?
apparently that happened at wild iris on the 5.10 wall several years ago--someone took a winger just before she clipped--bit down, and pulled out her two front teeth and the part the mouth that held them in. as conrad says, "the horror!"
you go girl for getting back on that wall. i'm impressed.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Knob Central
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Happened in the gym last year to a friend of mine. If you fall, spit REAL hard!
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Yeah, I know of a guy who did that rope-in-the-teeth trick while falling at Smith a couple years back. Gack, that's one of my long standing nightmares. One of my standard bits of advice for the youth is "You know, when you get older, you're gonna wish you took better care of your teeth"
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RRK
Trad climber
Talladega, Al
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they can fix that hole - see a different dentist for some bridgework (not cheap which is why I've still got some holes but not in the front - I got those all fixed which is why I know that a dentist with a kid in college can fix most anything). She's too pretty to be walking around with a gap.
RRK
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Prod
Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2007 - 06:26pm PT
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Hey Creatur,
You guessed it, rope in teeth! The amazing thing is that it didn't do anything else, no rope burn or rope smacks anywhere.
Yo RRK,
Not to worry she will be just as pretty, pretty soon. I should have said that her dentist said there is nothing she can do right now. Christa has been to the dentist since we have been back home and is going to the oral surgeon tomorrow. She can fill you in on the details of how to and how much. For now she's my little toothless angle.
Prod
Side note, we drank the Tequila on Quatro de Mayo, one day early....
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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You guys party.
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
Hell on earth wondering what I did to deserve it
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Ewww! Now I'm woozy!!
A few years ago I was sitting on the porch at the Gendarme at Seneca Rocks. Just as I was bringing a bottle of beer to my mouth for the big guzzle, my then-boyfriend turns quickly towards me and accidentally elbows the bottle right into my mouth. OW. I pull the bottle back and am shocked to see that it hit my front tooth so hard that I chipped the bottle! No...wait... OMG!!! The bottle wasn't chipped at all. That was tooth debris on the bottle. My front tooth was totally chipped. In West Virginia. Lots of jokes ensued about how I fit in then.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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That Christa gal seems like a keeper, Prod. Tough, pretty, with a sense of humor, and knows when it's appropriate to drink alchohol. Great TR!
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Gene
climber
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Definitely a "Women of Climbing" calandar finalist.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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WOW!!!
Good times comes with bad times. This, was one of them.
Even Russ was speechless!!
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RRK
Trad climber
Talladega, Al
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Crimpie wrote:
"My front tooth was totally chipped. "
The implication being that you have more than one? Definitely a visitor in W.Va. In fact the tooth brush was invented in W.Va. - anywhere else it would have been a teeth-brush. Uh-oh - I'm stealing my buddy's stuff - check out the Rendezvous next week and I'll get Nick (Brash) to tell the story about taking the cop's gun from him (no shit!!) Funny funny stuff so don't miss it.
RRK
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christa Marsh
Sport climber
traverse city, mi
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May 15, 2007 - 11:02am PT
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the toothbrush, funny! Everyone one at work tells me i'll have to take over our west va territory. that'd be fine with me- i'd stay toothless!
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Gumbelina!
Social climber
Meatchicken
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Jun 13, 2007 - 09:49pm PT
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Bump for a climbing thread! Holy crap prod and Christa, what a TR. I imagine the corrective dentistry is all done by now? You are one tough woman Christa!
It occurred to me that Sault St Marie, ON and points slightly north wouldn't be too inconvenient for you to check out. Batchawana and Montreal River Harbour have some ok climbing (more canadian shield granite/gneiss). The only rock climbing I've done there was at Ranwick Rock, some reasonably fun climbing, some bolted lines, some trad, supposedly some aid lines (ahem), and lots of room for more development. Looks like there is some info available over at rc.com. I guess there is a guidebook too. I can scrape together some beta if you're interested.
Cheers from the middle of the palm,
Gumbie
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Prod
Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2007 - 11:20am PT
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Hey Gumbie,
I checked out Renwick rock a few weeks ago. I thought it was way way over bolted. Almost to the point that it is ruined. The natural lines were few and far inbetween, but it was still a ton better than gym climbing. I have also checked out a few places going east on 17 from the Soo. I'll do another TR on my next visit that way.
The tooth saga is in progress, they have a temp tooth in until the post heals into her jaw bone (6 months total) then they will install a new vineer.
On top of that Christa just had her appendix removed.
Prod.
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ralph_teh_klimber
climber
ralph town
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Jun 14, 2007 - 11:39am PT
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Climbed in the UP a couple of times. It ain't bad, north of Calumet is Cliff drive, miles of choss to climb on, anything we put up is sans fixed gear.
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Gumbelina!
Social climber
Meatchicken
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Jun 14, 2007 - 01:24pm PT
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Dang Prod! Take good care of that woman, it sounds like she needs it right now. As for Ranwick, unfortunately some sections are pretty well grid-bolted. There's very little local coordination on development efforts, and many of the bolt placements are less aesthetic or well-thought-out than they perhaps could be. Major friction between some "local" parties definitely contributes to the disorganization. Have to take what you can get in this region sometimes.
I'd love to hear about what you find on 17E; looking forward to your next TR.
Healing thoughts for Christa from the middle 'o the mitt,
Gumbie
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Paulina
Trad climber
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Nov 28, 2007 - 02:53pm PT
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Wow, I hadn't seen this before -- and you had all your teeth at FaceLift! That was quite a TR.
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Indianclimber
Trad climber
Lost Wages
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Nov 27, 2008 - 01:50am PT
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Bump for Christa,had a great dinner with the Supertopo group tonight,where we all realized that it was the same Christa at the table who brought us these gory pictures
Ninfa
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
. . . not !
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Nice touch with the olde school photo look . What you shootin' ?
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, a nice bump for prod and crista...
not sure if i ever saw this post before.. will have to backtrack...
say, coming from someone with a mouthful of broken teeth, i salute you for your stamina...
very happy you have this fixed by now... (i think, right? as this was nov. 2008?)...
god bless, and keep being "each other's bestest friend" ...
:)
*edit, oh my... it was back in may...
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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sorry.. May 2007.....
Bumping for Crista
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Damn. Reminds me of climbing the NE Butt of Slesse with Anders (Mighty Hiker) bitd. High on the rappels at the top of the descent on the second day I felt a big rock move when I touched it, so I called "RROOOCCCCKKKKK" Turned out that I was able to hold it in place, but when Anders looked up to see which way to duck he caught a tiny pebble that came from somewhere way above us. He was looking up, with his mouth open and his head tipped way back, and the pebble ticked one of his upper front teeth. Split it in half, and the back half fell out.
Weird. Looked totally normal from the front, but he said that the inside part was gone.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Dec 12, 2010 - 04:13pm PT
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Can't resist bumping this oldie but goodie!
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
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Dec 12, 2010 - 04:28pm PT
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Right on, Ms. Crimp.
Prod's got a good gal there. Bloody chicks with missing teeth are kinda hot. ;-)
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Dec 12, 2010 - 05:34pm PT
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I agree, Callie
BUMP for Christa and Prod!!!!
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Prod
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2012 - 08:16pm PT
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Bumping this along for my toothless angel on Valentines day.
Proud Prod.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 14, 2012 - 08:48pm PT
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Awwww!!
I love this thread!
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Feb 14, 2012 - 09:18pm PT
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Hey Prod, did you put on the "wifebeater T" and help Christa out to some more fun dental work to celebrate V-day? :-) Cheers to a great couple!!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 14, 2012 - 10:56pm PT
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Ha ha, I know this girl who knocked her front tooth (teeth?) out on a boulder problem near Vedauwoo that I had overhyped to her.
Just like you in West Virginia, Crimp, she told me she felt right at home in Laramie's Buckhorn Bar after that!
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
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Feb 14, 2012 - 11:23pm PT
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Prod...your gal is a 10...thanks for the geology lecture on the UP...Now you know why those NBA players wear teeth guards...Can't explain the tatoos though..? RJ
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Prod
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2012 - 11:20pm PT
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Hey RJ,
Even a blind squirrel finds a nut every once in a while. Guess I got lucky.
Prod.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 15, 2012 - 11:22pm PT
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You did indeed!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 15, 2012 - 11:26pm PT
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Oh yeah!
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Prod
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2012 - 08:51am PT
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Hey Prod, did you put on the "wifebeater T" and help Christa out to some more fun dental work to celebrate V-day? :-) Cheers to a great couple!!
Wifebeaters are so 80's. You should start a pic thread about Tank tops, and the low cut tanks. I know for sure Hank has pics sporting that look.
Hey Jaybro, what boulder problem would that be?
Prod.
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Bad Climber
climber
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Feb 16, 2012 - 09:04am PT
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So, Prodster: Did Christa get new Chiclets installed? I remember that pic. Yoiks! The attitude so rocks, however.
BAd
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 16, 2012 - 12:37pm PT
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Cool! I hadn't seen this before. I remember around 1977 Ron Kauk's girlfriend at the time, Phyllis, I believe, did the same thing leading Spider Man.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Wow Prod! This is classic. I've never even considered a fall with the rope in my mouth. Good beta! :)
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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The TR that put Prod on the map here! It's a top ten classic for sure!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Whenever I've considered falling with the rope in my mouth, I inevitably choose not to. Every time I see Christa, I forget to ask why she chose otherwise.
This is a good story, with a couple of great pictures.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Prod, University of Mars
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two-shoes
Trad climber
Auberry, CA
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Knew a climbing buddy a few years back who took a fall on the Free Blast, with a carabiner in his teeth, ready to make the clip. He broke all 4 of his top front teeth out! Horribly painful he said.
Years ago I broke a front tooth off by having a hook pop on me on overhanging rock. I didn't know at the time, but those puppies can be just like a sling-shot coming at you. They can put holes in the top of your head too. Respect.
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