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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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WOW Sweet!
Mescalito, '07 Bring it!
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pickle chops
Trad climber
UK
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2007 - 10:03am PT
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Great pictures from the route, there really isn't anywhere to hide is there.
I think a set of screamers will help with the confidence, hauling my 240lb ass up that thing and swinging from those manky looking rivets, there's going to need to be a lot of confidence...
How many of the belays are fully hanging, anyone recall?
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lazide
Big Wall climber
Bay Area, CA
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I did it a couple years ago (solo, first wall) - I did it clean using fixed gear (some blown heads, including one I took a 20 footer on, but nothing you couldn't hook around at the time if you spent some time thinking about it (or not)).
Definitely bring screamers if you have them (6-8 won't seem like too many on some of the pitches) - the rivet ladders are definitely looking a bit worn (or were at the time), and most of the heads are uber skanky.
Two sets of small offsets (+ a set or two of small rp's) makes those three pitches of tiny C3 seem a little easier as well. Two sets of hybrid aliens, two sets of normal aliens (to red), and a bunch of .5, .75, and 1.0 camalots are nice as well. (one of the thin C3 pitches I placed 5 blue aliens (back cleaning)).
Don't forget the big stuff for the Bismark!
The only non-hanging belays - pitch before the seagull (kinda 3/4 butt ledge), right after the molar traverse (kinda gully like), Bismarck (before and after), 3rd to last pitch (kinda, makes guano ledge look like a flat parking lot)). There are a couple of 1/4 butt ledges laying around as well, but I am a bit fuzzy on them.
There is also a 'half butt' ledge in the middle a bit after the Bismark, but it won't do you much good at that point.
Most of the fun for Mescalito for me was the vertical camping! (12 nights on the ledge after fixing to pitch 3). Take a good portaledge and enjoy! The views are truly incredible!
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Bring a double set of offset friends (extra style points for dimple marked ones).
I think you meant offset Aliens.
The dimpled ones can turn any pitch into A4-A5, real quick 8-)
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