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davidji
Social climber
CA
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"reminds me of the joke about the point being on the wrong side of the nail ("those nails are for the other side of the room"). but you sound serious."
It reminded me of a joke about a merchant selling left-handed tea cups--by rotating them when the customer wasn't looking.
With Offset cams it isn't quite the same thing: depending on how you build them, a different lobe is at the end when you've got the small sides pointing in the same direction. Not sure if that's worth getting a mirror-image set over or not. I have no offset cams at all, regular or reversed.
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Steven
Trad climber
Arvada, Colorado
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G_Gnome,
Well if you ever decide to try the Aliens I think you would be pretty happy with how well they work. I have used most of the other small cams out there and the Aliens are still my favorite. The C3's are nice but what's up with the hard to pull trigger on the larger sizes and the price?
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murcy
climber
San Fran Cisco
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i see... so, for instance, placed in a vertical pin scar with the small lobes further in the crack, one small lobe will be a tad deeper than the other (if the cam is built like the one in the picture, that will always be the small lobe on the right). and one big lobe will be deeper than the other (in this case always the left one). and that could matter if the scar is deeper on the left or on the right or if the edge is more solid on the left or right.
thanks for clarifying!
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Steven
Trad climber
Arvada, Colorado
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Murcy,
Have you ever tried to place a cam and it just didn't fit quite right. So you flip the cam over and then it drops right in nice and secure. Thats why they make the right and left offsets.
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handsome B
Gym climber
SL,UT
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The price on the C3s is for them not breaking in a fall.
Go figure.
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Steven
Trad climber
Arvada, Colorado
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Oh, so that means the C4's are more likely to break?
Nice Try.
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handsome B
Gym climber
SL,UT
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Your kidding right?
Please tell me that comment was a joke.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Knob Central
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Of course, if you can pro-deal the C3s they just aren't that expensive. But then the same goes for all climbing gear. ;)
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Steven
Trad climber
Arvada, Colorado
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Of course I'm kidding, I think it's safe to say that the C4's are probably the most bomber cams you can buy.
You want to hook me up with some pro-dealed C3's G_gnome? I'd gladly take you up on that offer :)
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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"Of course I'm kidding, I think it's safe to say that the C4's are probably the most bomber cams you can buy."
I personally find Camalots of all generations including the C4 to be one of the weaker cams you can buy - speaking as a Metolius user, there isn't much comparison when talking about cams being "bomber".
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handsome B
Gym climber
SL,UT
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That's funny healyje, I can't stand the way Metolius cams walk out of the crack.
Your spine will break well before your C4 does.
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Steven
Trad climber
Arvada, Colorado
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"I personally find Camalots of all generations including the C4 to be one of the weaker cams you can buy"
Wow, now I've heard it all!
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davidji
Social climber
CA
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"I can't stand the way Metolius cams walk out of the crack."
Metolius TCUs don't seem to walk at all (just pivot back & forth on the center lobe). But they pop out easily when undercammed.
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handsome B
Gym climber
SL,UT
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Yeah, that pivot scares the living crap out of me.
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piquaclimber
Trad climber
Durango
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I must admit that even though I am firmly entrenched in the Alien camp, the fact that CCH hasn't posted up about exactly what is happening and what they are doing about it makes me think about alternatives.
healyje, were you kidding about Camalots? IMO they are at the very top of the list in terms of best overall cam on the market. Now that the C4s are so light, nothing else is even close.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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When cams decide to take a walk it is never the cam's fault. I've never had a Metolius cam 'walk' on me except for when I've slung them poorly followed by badgering them around as I passed - all in circumstances and placements any cam would have walked treated the same. Similarly, I've also never blown a TCU in a placement that wasn't so marginal any cam would have blown as well.
Now I like nice thumbloops as much as the next guy, but the business end of things is at the other end of the cam and nothing about the C4s has changed appreciably where they meet the rock. I do not like the design (thin axles), materials, the action, or the rattlely, flimsy feel of Camalots - never have.
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Forest
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Personally, I find that metolius TCUs just don't fit securely in as many places as my aliens. I started out with TCUs and migrated to aliens whe I found that my friends' aliens would have a secure feel in placements that the TCUs just didn't. Plus I really hate those u-stems.
To each his own, I guess; but I think calling C4's flimsy or unreliable is way off base.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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well, since we are now griping about every cam, what is up with the metolius cam slings? Are theys still stitched down the length of the sling? I alwasy thought that was pretty dumb, made it stiff in a vertical alignment.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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I didn't say they were unreliable - I said I don't like anything about them enough to rely on them.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Knob Central
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Boy, I have a hard time thinking of C4s as having a lousy action, or being rattlely, and feeling flimsy. I felt that way about the 1st two generations of Camalots but not the new ones. The only problem I had with generation 3 was that they weighed too much and I hated the thumb spot.
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