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| Messages 1 - 5 of total 5 in this topic |
durban
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 18, 2007 - 08:42pm PT
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three stars in reid, yet i never hear anybody talk about it. has anybody here done it? how R is the R?
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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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May 18, 2007 - 08:48pm PT
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Shaggy did this route awhile ago. The report from the ultimate Valley hardman was that it's hard and scary.
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herm
Trad climber
Bishop
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May 18, 2007 - 09:51pm PT
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I backed off the "R" part on the third pitch or so a long time ago. It appeared rather improbable, apparently the route follows the exposed arete between the north and northwest faces, with only a few opportunities for pro. I would love to hear about what happens after that.....
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mikeyschaefer
climber
Yosemite
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May 19, 2007 - 04:52pm PT
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I did the route a couple of years ago. i thought it was one of the best routes I have done in the Valley. Long, exposed, challenging, incredible position, engaging climbing.
It is a little runout but I didn't think it was anything harder than R . I didn't even notice any runout climbing on the lower half. I swapped leads up it with my girlfriend and she didn't whimper... It seams the R rating is probably for the 10d pitch up high. the runount is on the start of that pitch where you have to climb around this funky really loose block that would easily come off will if ya pulled on it wrong. I couldn't find a way around it and had to jam behind. If it came of it would be really bad news for anyone on the Reg as it would fall directly onto the lower half of the REG. there is still some business above the block and don't remember much pro. the 10d is protected by a bolt though. Incredible moves. Heal hooking and slapping up the ARETE of Half Dome, nothing else like it.
If the route got some traffic and WASN'T runout it would be one the best grade V free climbs in valley. It is about as serious as say, mr Kamps or heart of stone on fairview dome.
I remember some really long pitches on it. A 60m seemed important. I think we used 2 9mil stratoses and was happy to have them
James- I don't think jay stuck it, he got lost or something, probably didn't have a topo. kate and I thought it was straight forward
mikey
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durban
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2007 - 02:53pm PT
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thanks, mikey!
"Shaggy . . . the ultimate Valley hardman . . ."
james, i didn't know you were going by the name of "shaggy" these days.
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| Messages 1 - 5 of total 5 in this topic |
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