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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Lock and Load for Grit Laddie...in 2012!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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My brother is maried to a gal from wales and has spent some time over there. He said despite Gritstones deserved reputation there are many many very good cracks there. They are just generally short. He was also surprised by the amount of bigger cliffs that you never hear of that have great long moderates throughout Wales and some of the other lacations he visited.
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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Thanks Steve I needed that!
Good apropos to start organising this years Grit-trip.
Lasti
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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Just so I can bump it up and get psyched, a couple of photos for your enjoyment.
Can't wait to get back to the endlessly undulating ridgeline above Hathersage.
The likewise endless discussion amongst gearheads and the masturbatory racking, reracking, rereracking.
And all the man-eating cracks you can handle (or not).
Lasti
p.s. I am in dire need of some classic gritstone shots, so post up your ancient hidden treasures.
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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Great pics Pat, I knew someone would step forward and give up the goods!
Good thing you got a "crack" at the Sloth, the entire upper tier of the Roaches has been closed every time we were there due to nesting. Haven't given up yet...
Lasti
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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Apr 17, 2012 - 05:14am PT
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BUMP!!!
Because:
a) RADNESS
b) Going there for our yearly pilgrimage in 10 days.
And a little less classic picture of a really classic climb.
Here's what the guidebook has to say:
The awesome roof-crack is a desperate fight. Climb an awkward groove to a poor rest and then undercut wildly out left. The struggle to fist-jam past the lip is especially memorable and will doubtless leave its mark one way or another. Once past the lip easy jamming remains - if you have any steam left!
Sentinel Crack - Chatsworth
Lasti
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
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Apr 17, 2012 - 04:56pm PT
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Hmm, I think that's it for now.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
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Apr 18, 2012 - 02:54am PT
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 18, 2012 - 12:23pm PT
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Nice shots folks!
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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Apr 19, 2012 - 04:00pm PT
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That's what I'm talking about!
Glad to see we could shake loose a few gems from Blakey... Nice shots and nice lines, great routes the lot of them!
Lasti
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 13, 2013 - 07:40pm PT
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Bump for True Grit!
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perswig
climber
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Jan 13, 2013 - 08:01pm PT
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HowdidImissthisBUMP.
Dale
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Jan 13, 2013 - 10:02pm PT
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I stayed in Shefffield in 78 and Rob Uttley and others would take me out to the Peak District. We always would have some really greasy breakfast at a cafe full of climbers along the way. We all got something called the full set. It may have been called the Moon or something? Anyone else remember this place?
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duncan
climber
London, UK
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Jan 14, 2013 - 09:17am PT
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Marty, The Moon was the climber's pub at Stoney Middleton. The old joke suggested it lacked atmosphere. The cafe was probably The Lover's Leap, also in Stoney. It's now RIP, like most leaping lovers (and converted to an Indian Restaurant).
I'm interested that you climbed with Rob Uttley (and great to see crunch's photo upthread). Rob was a good friend and great climbing inspiration. His death was a major reason behind me forswearing Alpinism.
A very young Duncan practicing his finger jamming in peg scars prior to Yosemite
(Regent Street, Millstone quarry; about 1979).
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Jan 14, 2013 - 09:41am PT
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Duncan, I stayed with this group of climbers in Sheffield. One of them was far better than the others, in fact I belayed him on what I think was an early lead of London Wall. We would also go buildering in town on this long traverse wall and the guy had incredibly strong forearms. Honestly I saw the picture of Rob in this post and think it was him, but I really can't be sure. I remember they mixed their hash with tobacco and I took a puff and got pretty sick. Long time ago. I do remember the full set though, beans,fried toast, eggs and lots of pork.
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duncan
climber
London, UK
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Jan 14, 2013 - 10:01am PT
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Marty, it's very possible our paths crossed at some point. As bvb pointed out up-thread, Sheffield had steady trickle of visitors from The 'States in those days. I particularly remember Mark Wilford, unfeasibly tanned and sporting a Hawaiian shirt, quite distinctive in northern England in the late 1970s.
Much better than the others, huge forearms and an early ascent of London Wall certainly sounds like Rob. I couldn't possibly comment about hash smoking habits.
BC (Before climbing gyms) there was a well established buildering circuit in Sheffield. Pre-eminent was the Broomgrove Wall. The classic L to R traverse is hard-core crimping and at least 5.12a.
(These are quarried gritstone blocks, so qualify for inclusion in this thread)
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