Gritstone photos from 1977

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Messages 1 - 140 of total 140 in this topic
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 19, 2007 - 11:24pm PT
Brit John Cox asked if I had any more shots of Yorkshire Gritstone like the one I posted on the group photo thread. Seems the climb being attempted by Al Manson in that photo is called Usurper, which had its first ascent that summer of 1977. Gritstone history and trivia buffs across the pond are intrigued. I dug up a few more and I’ll ask John or other Grit enthusiasts to supply captions where I can’t.

Here’s the picture of the base of Usurper again:


Gib on the Joe Brown off width classic, Elder Crack. First ascent: 1950!


Al Manson soloing something.


Steve Webster on ?.


Previously posted shot of Western Front at Almscliff, with Nicky Stokes on the lead.



Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Mar 19, 2007 - 11:28pm PT
Those are really nice Rick, capturing the quintessence of Grit.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Mar 19, 2007 - 11:40pm PT
Thanks Rick - I was there in 1976, hitchhiking around, climbing in North Wales and the Peak. Quite an experience.
WBraun

climber
Mar 19, 2007 - 11:49pm PT
Now see those stone fences down in the background. They're everywhere. You know why?

Because they cut all the trees down and there are no more.

And as we walked through the pastures there's a lot of cow dung in there. I told those blokes that cow dung is pure.

They looked at me and said "help yourself to some". .......

Nice pics Rick.
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Mar 19, 2007 - 11:59pm PT
Great shots, Ricky. What is Al Manson up to these days I wonder. He was a skilled and bold climber.

JL
Jeremy Handren

climber
NV
Mar 20, 2007 - 12:01am PT
FWIW pic 4 is L'Horla on Curbar, but it's back to front I think.
crusher

climber
Santa Monica, CA
Mar 20, 2007 - 01:02am PT
Hey Rick thanks for those photos. We were in the UK last Summer and got to have a taste of the grit. Had a blast and would love to go back.

I'll bet John Arran could i.d. those climbs. He guided us when we were there and is an awesome guy. Maybe he'll catch this thread.



Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Mar 20, 2007 - 02:03am PT
Those photos bring me back, Rick, to a trip in '74 when I climbed on the grit, sandbagged by the likes of Al Rouse, etc. Once I got the trick of sipping my pints in the pub at night, things went better. Love the foggy isle.
Mimi

climber
Mar 20, 2007 - 02:24am PT


Stan Mish on Fern Hill, Cratcliffe Tor, 1982. Gritstone is such fine stone! Thanks for the correction on the crag name John C.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
Mar 20, 2007 - 02:45am PT
It's how they say... "just brilliant!"

I'm enamored with the place, even the sheep sh#t and the midges are endearing in a blood sucking smelly way.

Mimi

climber
Mar 20, 2007 - 02:52am PT
Come on now! A pound per night to place a tent in a grassy sheep pasture. What a deal! The pub closed at 10:30 pm which was nearly sunset, until the season started, and then it was open until midnight. Nothing like rushing to finish the climb at dark and make the pub before last call. A pint of best, please! Serious carbo loading that was.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
Mar 20, 2007 - 03:03am PT
Cool stuff Ricky!
Mick Ryan

Trad climber
Kendal, English Lake District
Mar 20, 2007 - 06:43am PT
Cheers Rick.

Posted across the Pond at UKClimbing.com

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=233376

Russ. Grit this summer? Your room is waiting.

Mick
(keep your answer clean)
Mick Ryan

Trad climber
Kendal, English Lake District
Mar 20, 2007 - 06:49am PT
Largo

Al Manson is still climbing strong. I met him at his local crag at Wetherby this summer and he's still as gymnastic and as keen as ever, lots of trips bolt clipping in Spain. He has a successful business building the frames for climbing gyms...although I think he is officially retired. He used to make it out to Bishop a lot when I was there, clipping bolts in the Gorge and bouldering at the Buttermilks and the Volcanic Tableland. On his rest days he'd caddy his wife at the Bishop golf course.

Yo Jerry H. I'll give you a call.

Mick
John Cox

Trad climber
London, England
Mar 20, 2007 - 07:09am PT
Rick A: nice, thanks. None of Nicky S actually making the FA of Usurper?!

The climb Al M is soloing is I think Rugosity Crack at Stanage.

I think Jeremy H is right that Steve W is on L'Horla at Curbar, but if so I agree that the slide must be the wrong way round, I think - you swing left on to the bulge, not right. That would make the rock in the foreground the left edge of the Committed wall, I suppose (for Brit viewers), which looks about right.
John Cox

Trad climber
London, England
Mar 20, 2007 - 07:41am PT
Bother - now how did that happen? I do apologise for spamming the place.

Gib L is at the point on Elder Crack where it used to be the custom either to use the broddling stick which was kept in the crack for that purpose to try and place a wire, or else knit two wires together and stree---e------tch into the crack. These days I expect people just reach up and place a large Friend. In 1950 of course I dare say Joe just got on with it.

It’s Cratcliffe Tor, by the way, not Cratcliffe Edge. My fault I think for posting the wrong name before. Nice pix – Fern Hill is SO good. (and by the way was probably first done in 1947/8: not bad for what was then effectively an on-sight solo of committing 5.10b/c climbing).
Nic

Trad climber
Cornwall
Mar 20, 2007 - 09:33am PT
The Al Manson solo picture is a minor classic called "Gullibles Travels" I think.
bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Mar 20, 2007 - 10:37am PT
Great pics Ricky - I love seeing that grit stuff....
PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
Mar 20, 2007 - 10:53am PT
Thanks for posting the pictures of Grit. I had the chance to climb over there in '69. Those pictures brought back wonderful memories of the feel of the rock, how the cool air smelled, and the beautiful country side.
Makes me want to save up money for an airplane ticket!
thesiger

Trad climber
A desert kingdom
Mar 20, 2007 - 11:08am PT
Guys, get a grip. Your Mr Beckwith has it right:

"Have you ever seen the gritstone?" Geoff Birtles asked me.

I hadn't. We were in Sheffield, England, where I was visiting with Birtles, the editor of High Mountain Sports magazine, on a brief working tour of the country for The American Alpine Journal. With two hours remaining before my departure, I jumped into his Citroen, and we careened down the narrow streets, the rolling countryside greeting us as we emerged from the industrial pallor of Sheffield's roads. Parking among a row of neatly filed cars, we set off. The trail dropped into a depression, where we soon encountered a low swath of dark-gray stone, mottled with holes, cool to the touch. I followed Birtles, waiting to see the fabled grit. A couple of climbers were racking up, curiously enough, for a twenty-foot crack. Farther on, another pair was doing the same thing, racks of nuts on Perlon and giant hexes clanging at their sides. They must be out on their inaugural climbs, I thought, practicing as they were on these boulders. Suddenly it dawned on me that these boulders were the fabled gritstone. Dear Lord, I thought, the poor island and its inhabitants.

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP08/editors-note-monsters
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Nov 13, 2008 - 03:11am PT
totally kick ass thread bump
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 13, 2008 - 11:08am PT
For you Grit lovers......




tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Nov 13, 2008 - 11:27am PT
If I had time or money, I'd go back to the grit. I was there in April of some year 2001 maybe. I got rained on, snowed on, and was the only person at tthe crag most days, but everytime I did run into someone, they'd offer me a rope, and then once we were rained off, we'd go to the pub.

So I'm out there on a sunny day finally, and all of a sudden a lot of people show up. I get talking to these Welsh guys and they offer me a rope. So I rack up. Well, I've been trained by Yosemite, so I stack up both sides of my harness with cams. Those guys just started laughing and pointing to all their freinds "look at all those cams," ha ha ha.

They were good sports so they let head up the route to learn my lesson. What I thought would be nice parallel crack placements was all wavy with perfect spots for stoppers, oops.

Those climbs are short, but they pack a punch. The way those cliffs are all in a line is like a well organized J-tree.

Tom
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 13, 2008 - 12:10pm PT
Nothing like rushing to finish the climb at dark and make the pub before last call.

I thought that's what would happen when I first hit the grit, but no, the loonies I was climbing with (Ken Wilson, Martin Boysen, and a crew of their friends) just hauled out camping lanterns, set them at the base, and continued climbing. That made it pretty dark at the tops of the routes, but none of them seemed to notice. Or care.

It was in early November, so the days were pretty short and the only way to climb in the evening was to accept the darkness, but still...

Madmen.
graham

Social climber
Ventura, California
Nov 13, 2008 - 12:28pm PT
Great seeing shots of all these “blokes” again, thanks for bumping. I remember fun days on Gritstone.

For kicks here I am taking a little wiper on “Profit of Doom”


That felt pretty darn thin if I remember right

What was the local Pub around there? The Moon?
crusher

climber
Santa Monica, CA
Nov 13, 2008 - 02:57pm PT
Nice to see some gritstone! We haven't been able to get back there again (yet!) but had a great trip a few years back:


http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=256885&msg=257907#msg257907

Yes, I'm bumping my own trip report but hey, it's great to be done with the all the political threads, to which, I must admit, I did post.
dickcilley

Social climber
A cova Dos Nenos
Nov 14, 2008 - 11:16am PT
Livesy????Whats he ever done on Grit? The grit quote I like best is"Thats what he gets for messing with grit".Refering to a leading limestone climber who nearly had his foot torn off while attempting a grit testpiece. Ilove Grit .Nectar..Harvest,London Wall, Strapadichtomy,The Jackalope.John allen,The Stokes brothers,All classics.It doesn´t get any better.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Nov 14, 2008 - 11:28am PT
I've already got plane tickets to visit family and to go climbing.

thank-you for the cool pix.
Brunosafari

Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
Nov 14, 2008 - 11:48am PT


Does anybody have John Allen's contact info???? or Kiwi pal, Jeff Shrimpton?

Thanks much! -Bruce Adams
Tomcat

Trad climber
Chatham N.H.
Nov 14, 2008 - 11:55am PT
I will see if I can get my slides scanned from my Day on Grit.

Strapadichtomy...always loved that route name.Eventually I did a new route on some gritlike rock in Penna.My partner wanted to name it Ducksdeluxe,I have no idea why.

We settled on Strapaducktome...
WBraun

climber
Nov 14, 2008 - 11:56am PT
Grrrrreatstone
crunch

Social climber
CO
Nov 14, 2008 - 08:17pm PT
Not exactly 1977, but not far off. About 1981. Jerry “if you don’t let go, you can’t fall off” Moffatt storming up White Wall, MIllstone Edge.


Rob Uttley on the nearby London Wall. Rob died on Annapurna, if memory serves.

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Nov 14, 2008 - 09:05pm PT
I love those black-and-whites crunch.
Where are they from... your own?
Got anymore?
Jingy

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Nov 14, 2008 - 09:54pm PT
Rick A - Awesome photos of a beautiful climbing area. Some amazing stuff happens over there, and I thank you for bringing it to me!


Cheers
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Nov 15, 2008 - 09:03pm PT
Rick of course is the man and one of rock climbing's best spirits. I too have great memories of gritstone climbs. I've often thought if I ever leave this country my first choice is Wales... I love those people, their little houses without central heating, good food, good friendship... I have a distant ancestor who slew the Prince of Wales and was knighted on the battlefield. Don't know what that has to do with anything... Maybe that I'm tied to the place somehow...

Pat
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 18, 2008 - 06:48pm PT
The classic survey by Dave Cook from Mountain 26, March 1973. Inspiring, airy shots on classic toughs!







Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 1, 2009 - 12:14pm PT
Grit bump!
Michael Hjorth

Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
Jan 1, 2009 - 04:52pm PT
I did a UK tour in 1984, and gritstone was top of the trip.

Stanage, Robin Hood's Right Hand Buttress Direct (HS 4a):

Me starting on Browns '49 The Right Unconquerable (HVS 5a). Best climb ever. Had to laugh all the way - until the belly flopping finish!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 3, 2009 - 12:22pm PT
Such delightfully pure climbing problems! Nice!

This ad ran for years. From Mountain 24.


And a couple of shots from the news section of Mountain 29.


Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 5, 2009 - 10:14pm PT
Robin Hood's sure looks like fun!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 15, 2009 - 11:05am PT
Classic bump!
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 15, 2009 - 11:51am PT
it suddenly occured to me: in the summer of '77 everyone mysteriously had money to travel abroad.

heh.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 17, 2009 - 10:12pm PT
The magic dole......LOL
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 7, 2009 - 01:53pm PT
Step into action with EB! From Mountain 54.

Cracko

Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
Mar 7, 2009 - 02:26pm PT
Michael H,

Had to laugh at your description of the top of the unconquerables. Was there in the late seventies, and had a time with right and left unconquerable. Can't remember which one I finally made, but the "slapfest" at the top was worse than anything below!!


Cracko
TYeary

climber
Mar 7, 2009 - 02:55pm PT
All that smoke up in money.....er ...ah..
well you know......uhm..
Nice shots Rick.
That bit of air time, was just testing gear, right Mike?
Tony
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 8, 2009 - 10:41pm PT
Grit Bump!
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Redlands
Nov 9, 2009 - 12:01am PT
Riley, let's go!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 27, 2009 - 04:55pm PT
Bump for Joe and Don's testpieces!
Lasti

Trad climber
Budapest
Nov 28, 2009 - 06:16am PT
Ahhhhh, the Grit.

So fine.

Very nice pics, happy to see quite a few familiar faces (the rocks, not the people).

Jeremy Handren, you are my hero, that really is Horla at Curbar and it really is back to front. Very good visual imagination/memory. I am truly dumbfounded. How did you do it?

Graham, nice 'whipper', of course Walleye does not know that you slipped from the very very wide stemming up where the angle eases and couldn't (or chose not to?) place the small RPs or ballnuts in the corner and that that last piece is pretty off to the side. Not a whipper by Yosemite standards, but when the entire wall is 50' falling 15' seems like a lot.

Steve, so sweet scans. Peapod: you'll be laughing all the way to the top where you WILL vomit from the pain in your burning calves. Great slab is a solo. Nothing to be placed, so why take a rope?

Michael Hjorth, that is a very fine route, but not Robin Hood's, that's Inverted V! As you can see from Steve Grossman's scan right after your post, Robin Hood's is just to the right (crack) and you under the overhang in the corner to the left.

Oh the memories. Probably going there next May too, so come on over we'll make a riot out of it.

Lasti

p.s.

Not '77, but same routes:




For the rest I will have to blackmail friends into surrendering their pictures of this year's outing.




Michael Hjorth

Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
Nov 28, 2009 - 01:49pm PT
Lasti,

Ofcause, Inverted V! It rings a bell - far off.

Did the Peapod also then. What I remember most is getting out of the pod, fixing some pro above, not the burning calves. Have a B/W negative somewhere needing to be scanned. Will look and come back.

Michael
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 28, 2009 - 07:39pm PT
Great pics, guys! Pester your friends, by all means...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 28, 2009 - 09:12pm PT
A classic shot of Almcliffe grit from The Book of Modern Mountaineering edited by Malcolm Milne, 1968.

dogtown

Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
Nov 29, 2009 - 12:01am PT
You older dudes freak us out! It amazes us how many of you asse’s had a camera . Back then! We never had one, nor did we care. Foolishly.

Dogtown.
Michael Hjorth

Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
Nov 29, 2009 - 05:38pm PT
OK, found the Curbar/Peapod/me/1985 picture:

As well as more from Stanage/Right Unconquerable.

Preparing for bellyswim...

While I am at it, I'll scan some more from that trip, where we continued to Wales & Llanberis Pass. Wales, dark rhyolite, and rain goes well with black & white! Possibly a new thread?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 29, 2009 - 05:50pm PT
This one is pretty easy to expand and I bet Ricky and company climbed in some other areas on their trip! Post away!
Lasti

Trad climber
Budapest
Nov 30, 2009 - 10:03am PT
Steve, I've pestered them for the past six months. Results? Nada. But I am going to step up the pestering till they break.

Until then last year's outing...

Quite close to Quietus, much easier and much less straightforward: Kelly's Overhang, Stanage


And this one for Tomcat. John Allen's masterpiece from '76, the aptly named Strapadictomy.


The pestering continues for this year's pics.

Lasti


Lasti

Trad climber
Budapest
Dec 8, 2009 - 04:16am PT
Alas, my constant pestering finally broke the resolve of one of the guys. So here goes nothing.

Remember L'Horla at Curbar upthread? The one that was back to front? L'Horla is the adjacent crack to the left. Ever tried liebacking when the wall for your feet disappears? Welcome to Insanity, Curbar.


Something personal... You got the big cam present, now climb the friggin' offwidth Birthday Boy!


Aron putting the #6 Camalot to good use on Right Eliminate.


Did someone say Peapod?


So much for now.

Lasti


Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 18, 2010 - 01:18pm PT
A classic grit montage from Mountain 13.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 15, 2010 - 11:14am PT
No lack of wind in your sails, mate! LOL
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
May 15, 2010 - 12:15pm PT
I love that peapod pic.
Z
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2010 - 12:58pm PT
Didn't know I was being pestered! I'll post up some more pics here in a bit.
Rick
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
May 15, 2010 - 01:47pm PT
That's some classic shite from classic folks. Imagine all those lives and experiences.

JL
handsome B

Gym climber
SL,UT
May 15, 2010 - 08:09pm PT
too good to go away



Great shots!
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
May 15, 2010 - 11:24pm PT
I missed this before. Thanks, Rick! P.M. broken plumbing bump!
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
May 15, 2010 - 11:43pm PT
I think steve posted the the climb I've been thinking of. I also think the guy above the post from steve g. is on the same climb.

Robbinhood Arete.

That might be the one that has been bugging me since this thread and that other grit one started.

Way cool- some day I'll be back.
Lasti

Trad climber
Budapest
May 17, 2010 - 10:47am PT
Hi All!

How lucky can one get? This thread has been bumped from obscurity while my mates and I were on our now-regular pilgrimage to the Grit!

Just got back and thought maybe a few teaser pics would be in order.

Let's see...

You can always count on British weather to put the STORM into 'storming up a climb'



The pictures are not as nice as the ones from '85 but the climb sure is just as beautiful. Right Unconquerable, Stanage.



Gritstone par excellence: Thomas the Robot surprising his belayer with a jump off Nosferatu, Burbage South.


The guidebook says of an E4 6a (approx. 5.11a-b) offwidth climbed by Whillans in '58: "The bold (crazy?) can layback the outer edge of the crack but that isn't really the point."

Thomas the Robot proving he isn't all that crazy on Goliath, Burbage South.



How hard would this thing be without the pinscars of years of misuse as an aid route? Sadly, we'll never know. Bence on London Wall, Millstone.


The lads contemplating the future of climbing.


So much for now. Hope to have some more pictures in shortly.

If you think I should have posted a separate TR thread, you're probably right, but I want people to see all the cool old dadz that have gone before us.

Lasti
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
May 17, 2010 - 11:56am PT
Wow, Lasti, thanks for the pic of Kelly's Overhang. I was at Stanage on a rainy day (big surprise) in '81 and that was only one of two routes we ticked.

Also made it to Millstone Edge for a day and drooled over London Wall but it was still pretty wet. Didn't stop my host from bouldering some tall 5c called Edge Lane or something like that. Grit is just awesome. If you could guarantee some good weather to boot, I'd go back in a minute.

I've always been amazed at how the Brits look so pasty and frail but pull down so hard. BTW, that .11a/b Whillans put up is called Erosion Groove if memory serves me correctly.
Lasti

Trad climber
Budapest
May 17, 2010 - 12:36pm PT
Fat Dad,

Kelly's Overhang is an exceptional route, especially taking into account that it's E1 5c or about 5.10b-c-ish and was put up in 1926.
London Wall has probably received its fair share of drooling, I know we've contributed plenty. Edge Lane is a very nice arete right by its Super-Star neighbor Master's Edge and almost as intriguing.
By the way, the Whillans OW is called Goliath, and once you face it you will feel like someone armed with a sling in the face of a giant Philistine warrior. Except in this story Goliath more often than not wins.

Lasti
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
May 17, 2010 - 01:10pm PT
Re the Whillans' route, Goliath, thanks for the clarification. Having said that, this is another route called Erosion Groove, a hard to protect or unprotected .11 that Whillans also put up around the same time, probably after a long night of hard drinking. Hardman, total hardman.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 5, 2010 - 02:29pm PT
True Gritbump!
GibO

Trad climber
Breckenridge
Jul 6, 2010 - 12:19pm PT
Wow, the photos bring back great old memories of climbing on grit. Used to correspond fairly frequently with Al Manson. Glad to hear he is doing well.

Trees, yes, it appears that in areas with extended human habitation, the vegetation and and soil fertility have a tendency to disappear.
Fuzzywuzzy

climber
suspendedhappynation
Jul 7, 2010 - 11:06am PT
Wow, seeing the Willians OW reminded me of the tale of his first trip to Yosemite.

Was anybody at the base of Pharaoh's Beard when he layed it away?

Good story - true???
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 25, 2010 - 02:39pm PT
It's all true!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 12, 2011 - 10:43pm PT
Kinda like T M laybacking the Hollow Flake on the first repeat attempt!
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jan 12, 2011 - 11:41pm PT
The movie from the third ascent (Long, Steck, someone) showed Hollow Flake being liebacked also.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 13, 2011 - 08:39pm PT
They don't call him Tough Mother for nothing...Whillans neither! LOL
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 19, 2011 - 12:52am PT
Lunge for the bump!
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Nov 19, 2011 - 03:53am PT
Repeating some of the Grit classics are on what's little left of my bucket list. I really wanna do White Wall and Prophet of Doom.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Nov 19, 2011 - 03:59am PT
Oh, and Boysen's "The Thing" on some southern sandstone near London. Been on my mind for going on 40 years. When I think back to my trips to France, it occurs to me I shoulda gone to Britan. Oh well.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 1, 2012 - 05:56pm PT
Lock and Load for Grit Laddie...in 2012!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Jan 1, 2012 - 10:30pm PT
My brother is maried to a gal from wales and has spent some time over there. He said despite Gritstones deserved reputation there are many many very good cracks there. They are just generally short. He was also surprised by the amount of bigger cliffs that you never hear of that have great long moderates throughout Wales and some of the other lacations he visited.
Lasti

Trad climber
Budapest
Jan 2, 2012 - 10:32am PT
Thanks Steve I needed that!

Good apropos to start organising this years Grit-trip.

Lasti
Lasti

Trad climber
Budapest
Jan 2, 2012 - 03:50pm PT
Just so I can bump it up and get psyched, a couple of photos for your enjoyment.

Can't wait to get back to the endlessly undulating ridgeline above Hathersage.


The likewise endless discussion amongst gearheads and the masturbatory racking, reracking, rereracking.


And all the man-eating cracks you can handle (or not).


Lasti

p.s. I am in dire need of some classic gritstone shots, so post up your ancient hidden treasures.
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Jan 2, 2012 - 10:48pm PT
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Jan 2, 2012 - 10:52pm PT
Lasti

Trad climber
Budapest
Jan 3, 2012 - 04:06am PT
Great pics Pat, I knew someone would step forward and give up the goods!

Good thing you got a "crack" at the Sloth, the entire upper tier of the Roaches has been closed every time we were there due to nesting. Haven't given up yet...

Lasti
Lasti

Trad climber
Budapest
Apr 17, 2012 - 05:14am PT
BUMP!!!

Because:
a) RADNESS
b) Going there for our yearly pilgrimage in 10 days.

And a little less classic picture of a really classic climb.

Here's what the guidebook has to say:

The awesome roof-crack is a desperate fight. Climb an awkward groove to a poor rest and then undercut wildly out left. The struggle to fist-jam past the lip is especially memorable and will doubtless leave its mark one way or another. Once past the lip easy jamming remains - if you have any steam left!


Sentinel Crack - Chatsworth

Lasti
Blakey

Trad climber
Newcastle UK
Apr 17, 2012 - 04:56pm PT












Hmm, I think that's it for now.
Blakey

Trad climber
Newcastle UK
Apr 18, 2012 - 02:54am PT
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Apr 18, 2012 - 03:35am PT

[Click to View YouTube Video]
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 18, 2012 - 12:23pm PT
Nice shots folks!
Lasti

Trad climber
Budapest
Apr 19, 2012 - 04:00pm PT
That's what I'm talking about!

Glad to see we could shake loose a few gems from Blakey... Nice shots and nice lines, great routes the lot of them!

Lasti
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 13, 2013 - 07:40pm PT
Bump for True Grit!
perswig

climber
Jan 13, 2013 - 08:01pm PT
HowdidImissthisBUMP.
Dale
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
Jan 13, 2013 - 10:02pm PT
I stayed in Shefffield in 78 and Rob Uttley and others would take me out to the Peak District. We always would have some really greasy breakfast at a cafe full of climbers along the way. We all got something called the full set. It may have been called the Moon or something? Anyone else remember this place?
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
Jan 14, 2013 - 08:07am PT
I found it

http://www.peakdistrictonline.co.uk/peak-district-pub-accommodation-the-moon-inn-stoney-middleton-i7573.html
duncan

climber
London, UK
Jan 14, 2013 - 09:17am PT
Marty, The Moon was the climber's pub at Stoney Middleton. The old joke suggested it lacked atmosphere. The cafe was probably The Lover's Leap, also in Stoney. It's now RIP, like most leaping lovers (and converted to an Indian Restaurant).


I'm interested that you climbed with Rob Uttley (and great to see crunch's photo upthread). Rob was a good friend and great climbing inspiration. His death was a major reason behind me forswearing Alpinism.

A very young Duncan practicing his finger jamming in peg scars prior to Yosemite
(Regent Street, Millstone quarry; about 1979).

martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
Jan 14, 2013 - 09:41am PT
Duncan, I stayed with this group of climbers in Sheffield. One of them was far better than the others, in fact I belayed him on what I think was an early lead of London Wall. We would also go buildering in town on this long traverse wall and the guy had incredibly strong forearms. Honestly I saw the picture of Rob in this post and think it was him, but I really can't be sure. I remember they mixed their hash with tobacco and I took a puff and got pretty sick. Long time ago. I do remember the full set though, beans,fried toast, eggs and lots of pork.
duncan

climber
London, UK
Jan 14, 2013 - 10:01am PT
Marty, it's very possible our paths crossed at some point. As bvb pointed out up-thread, Sheffield had steady trickle of visitors from The 'States in those days. I particularly remember Mark Wilford, unfeasibly tanned and sporting a Hawaiian shirt, quite distinctive in northern England in the late 1970s.

Much better than the others, huge forearms and an early ascent of London Wall certainly sounds like Rob. I couldn't possibly comment about hash smoking habits.

BC (Before climbing gyms) there was a well established buildering circuit in Sheffield. Pre-eminent was the Broomgrove Wall. The classic L to R traverse is hard-core crimping and at least 5.12a.

(These are quarried gritstone blocks, so qualify for inclusion in this thread)
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Jan 14, 2013 - 10:18am PT
STANAGE EDGE

http://www.google.com/search?num=10&hl=en&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1264&bih=869&q=Stannage+edge&oq=Stannage+edge&gs_l=
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Jan 14, 2013 - 10:38am PT
Broken plumbing? Fix it y'self, Mate. Gone climbing.

And who's this "Climbing Jim" bloke?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 14, 2013 - 11:14am PT
No atmosphere in The Moon...I love it!
Andy Fielding

Trad climber
UK
Jan 14, 2013 - 03:58pm PT
Pre-eminent was the Broomgrove Wall.

Hey Duncan did you ever climb on the wall in Endcliffe Park? Used to spend hours down there as it was only 5 minutes from my house.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 3, 2013 - 01:07pm PT
Grit Bump
Blakey

Trad climber
Sierra Vista
Nov 12, 2013 - 01:27pm PT
Brit Grit Bump
tinker b

climber
the commonwealth
Nov 12, 2013 - 02:08pm PT
thanks for the stoke i am leaving italy for england tomorrow. i'll hopefully br getting pummelled on friday on the grit!
my ipod won't let me post any photos from august. oh well.
crunch

Social climber
CO
Nov 12, 2013 - 02:16pm PT
Andy Fielding

Trad climber
UK
Nov 13, 2013 - 04:00pm PT
A young me (about 1981) on Technical Master, Millstone Edge, Peak District Gritstone.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 7, 2013 - 03:45pm PT
Nice shot, Andy!
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Dec 7, 2013 - 04:02pm PT
Great grit thread!
Blakey

Trad climber
Sierra Vista
Dec 7, 2013 - 06:27pm PT



Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 7, 2013 - 11:07pm PT

Here's a link to a post of mine about a trip to Stannage/Burbage in 2007. We were all post-55 and it's possible the climbing wasn't the most difficult. Nonetheless, between the gritstone itself, British birds, my traveling companions and British family and an all too rare real ale; man it was a good trip.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=396501&msg=979960#msg979960

Andy Fielding

Trad climber
UK
Dec 8, 2013 - 03:54am PT
^^^Darwin that looks like you had a great trip. When I first started to climb in the late 70's Bamford was still out of bounds. Here's an extract from the 1976 guide.

"There is no right of access to the rocks or moor. Outside the summer period 1st April to 30th September small groups of climbers may be allowed access to the crag IF THEY FIRST CONTACT THE KEEPER, Mr.F. Darwent, telephone no. Bamford 458. They should do this some days before their intended visit to be sure of being at the head of the queue. Parties using the edge without first obtaining permission will be asked to leave and are prejudcing any further improvement in access".

Blakey

Trad climber
Sierra Vista
Dec 10, 2013 - 12:38pm PT
A couple more to bump the topic



Lasti

Trad climber
Budapest
Mar 14, 2014 - 08:24am PT
CLASSIC GRITSTONE BUMP

also,

Hopefully I will be there again mid-May.

STOKE
Lasti
Blakey

Trad climber
Sierra Vista
Mar 16, 2014 - 05:18am PT





perswig

climber
Mar 16, 2014 - 08:18am PT
^^
Lotta that nut showing!


Excellent bump and pics, esp Blakey.
Thanks!

Dale
Mark Force

Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
Mar 16, 2014 - 11:17am PT
Thanks everyone for sharing all the great photos and wonderful stories. Grit is truly amazing stuff to climb on and the setting, with the rolling hills, farms, and limestone valleys below and the moors above, truly unique.

Rich in history, too, think of Joe Brown leading the offwidth Right Eliminate (E3/5.10D) at Curbar in 1951 in tennis shoes and a hemp rope tied around his waist with only one slung chock stone for pro!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 12, 2014 - 12:31am PT
Friday Night Grit Bump...
Enty

Trad climber
Apr 12, 2014 - 09:02am PT
Great little Don Whillans boulder problem called The Villain on a fantastic crag called The Bridestones on the moors close to where I used to live. I managed to get a couple of hours bouldering there at Christmas.

Lasti

Trad climber
Budapest
May 5, 2014 - 08:09am PT
I will be there by the end of next week stoked BUMP.

Bumpity BUMP for Grit goodness.

Lasti
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
May 5, 2014 - 10:47am PT
hey there say, just saw steve had bumped this GREAT STUFF... thanks so much...

i CAN see photos now, without waiting for hoursssssssssssss.... :)

hey there, say, lasti...

wow, have a great time with this 'grit stuff'...
post some pics, later, too, soon as you get done enjoying it all...
god bless and great trip to you, too!


wow, after painting and in the house, so long and our cold spring, i am SURE ready TO cheer all the climbers on to good things...
miss the greatoutdoors, :)
Mark Force

Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
Nov 5, 2014 - 08:10pm PT
crunch

Social climber
CO
Nov 5, 2014 - 08:35pm PT

Higher up Brown Slab:


Both pics from 1992
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Jun 21, 2015 - 01:09am PT

CRAGS 9: THE GRITSTONE RESURGENCE: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1983313&msg=2270285#msg2270285 (Blakey, Nov 11, 2012)
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 20, 2017 - 02:09pm PT
Bump for the glory of gritstone...
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
May 20, 2017 - 02:20pm PT
Here ya go Mark

Mark Force

Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
May 20, 2017 - 02:21pm PT
Thanks!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 21, 2017 - 09:28am PT
Blakey put together a lovely TR about all things Almscliff that certainly needs to be linked here...

http://www.supertopo.com/tr/ALMSCLIFF-ARMSCLIFF-A-GRITSTONE-JEWEL-SOME-HISTORY-RECOLLECTIONS-AND-A-TRIP-REPORT/t12029n.html
Blakey

Trad climber
Sierra Vista
May 21, 2017 - 03:05pm PT
Interesting to see this reappear - some life breathed into it.....

Here are some recent routes, both local to me here in Northumberkland and from a recent trip to Derbyshire - Stanage and cratcliffe Tor.

mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
May 21, 2017 - 03:18pm PT
Wonderful photos, Blakey old boy. Cheers!
Mark Force

Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
May 21, 2017 - 04:09pm PT
Thanks for the pics, Blakey!!

Grit is awesome. Grit, Flagstaff basalt, and Granite Mt and California granite...don't know which one is THE best, but they're all at the top of the list!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 22, 2018 - 10:20am PT
Holiday Bump...
Spencer Lennard

Trad climber
Williams, Oregon
Dec 22, 2018 - 01:03pm PT
https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?mt=2&i=1000422880270


good listening
Blakey

Trad climber
Sierra Vista
Jan 21, 2019 - 11:13am PT
I have just started to acquire some missing copies of Mountain. This article seemed appropriate for this thread, albeit from 1973.

All of the rather dull caveats apply......

Regards,

Steve










Andy Fielding

Trad climber
UK
Jan 21, 2019 - 11:30am PT
Squirmed up a few of those during my time in Sheffield. Still love those days on the grit.
johntp

Trad climber
By decision or indecision we are where we are.
Jan 21, 2019 - 03:50pm PT
Not England. Gritstone in Oklahoma.

i-b-goB

Social climber
Nutty
Jan 21, 2019 - 06:11pm PT
If I did an FA there I would call it "Nitty Gritty Dirtbag"
Mark Force

Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
Jan 21, 2019 - 07:17pm PT
Peapod! Flying Buttress! Great Slab! Yeah!
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