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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Feb 26, 2007 - 11:28pm PT
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Steelmnkey,
Thanks for the thread. It's a route I want to do.
Zander
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Feb 27, 2007 - 01:19pm PT
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Thanks for the TR! Here's my off-the-cuff take on our adventure up there last 'summer'.
It opened with a strong suspicion of tainted spinach exposure on the approach. The climb was delayed a couple of hours and nearly ended right there on the trail.
Next we played the game of "Can I do this move w/o a rope? How 'bout this next one?" until we eventually decided that the 5.6 approach was giving way to the 5.7 first pitch.
We'd put off going up there for most of the summer b/c it seemed that the crux pitches would be in full sun. When we made the spur-of-the-moment decision to head up in early Sept. after a city-bound month, we expected to hit the sun mid afternoon. Didn't happen.
It was very windy and probably not more than 60 degrees all day. In our concern for overheating when we went into the sun, we wore t-shirts. I've never been so cold in my life.
I realized that glory was not on my side for that climb on that day, so adopted the mindset of aid-taking support crew where my goal for the day would just be to keep the team moving as fast as possible (read: getting us off the frozen pile as fast as possible!).
The sun came out on one of the last pitches, and I found myself futilely stretching around the corner from the belay trying to get some part of my body into a beam.
We did end up on top with about a half hour of warm, luxurious light remaining to get started down the gully. I'd heard the horror stories, but after such a cold day, being able to start moving continuously again was a real treat.
Although I was too cold to have much fun up there, it seemed like it would be a great climb on a nicer day. I can't imagine dragging a haul bag up to the base and back down for the top though! Y'all are burly!
Kudos to the rebolting team...What a huge job!
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G Murphy
Trad climber
Oakland CA
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Feb 27, 2007 - 02:28pm PT
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Someone asked about the North Face Sentinel routes. I can highly recommend the Direct North Face, freed by Adam Wainwright and Kevin Thaw I believe. It's right up there with Crucifix, Power Point, etc. A little grainy on the first few pitches but cleans up on the higher pitches. Really nice and continuous.
Nice TR on the C-H. It was one of my first long routes in the Valley back in 1986.
Greg
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Greg- thanks for the update on the Direct. How was it getting out to the start and how hard is the grade? Hopefully not too nasty as I would love to do something over on the left side and that looks like plum.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Ya know, we are incredibly fortunate people to have; this route plus the steck salathe, Abracadaver, Astroman, Reg on fairview, snake dike, the cazh on the diamond, Astroman, Iron Messiah, Levitation 29, mor-butt, primrose dihedrals, Astroman, Trick's of the trade, medicine man, hotline, after 6, Tulgey Wood, after 7, EDWARD'S CRACK, the LA Chimeny, the owen spalding, nutcracker, Cocoanut corner, Harding's routes on Conness and Keeler, Crimson Chrysalis, plumbline, Walk on the Wild side, Sunshine buttress, Valhala, Mcarthy North and West ... the list goes on (not even talking about longer routes) as our personnel playthings when we feel up to doing them.
Do most people get to find this caliber of outlet?
..."Well, you know, those climbers, they just do that because they have a death wish"....
har! Don't nobody spill the beans!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jul 28, 2008 - 06:21pm PT
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