Blown Out Climber Series: Routine Sunday Ski & Rubble Ogle

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Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2007 - 01:08am PT
...But I digress.
Here's a couple sweet summer's pic of the Devil's Thumb,
And the wall to its right, of which Jello spoke upthread.

This first shot shows the Thumb as it stounds out sharply,
Plus, yup, that's the USATF '05 & '06 Womens Masters Mountain Runner of the Year, my wife, Lisa G!
Note the critical foot stance required to win such an honor:


The second photo depicts the Jello Wall a bit better,
(or is it the Jello Mold?...naw, that must be sumwhere in the greater ranges)
As well we see here some dope-adled internet surfer:

paganmonkeyboy

Trad climber
the blighted lands of hatu
Feb 20, 2007 - 09:46am PT
mmmm....dope-adled surfing....

ever try swimming to the island in island lake ? we tried *once* - wouldn't recommend it...
taco bill

Trad climber
boulder, co
Feb 20, 2007 - 10:17am PT
My friend says of that first pitch of Green Spur, "Dude, it's so typical Eldo. It looks like 5.11, it feels like 5.10, and it's rated 5.9."

One of my favorites though. Better of the 2 spurs in my opinion.

adam
Inner City

Trad climber
East Bay
Feb 20, 2007 - 02:41pm PT
BUMP for Tarbuster, thread creator extraordinaire! What a life!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2007 - 05:37pm PT
Thanks Inner City!

Now Jello, I'm still hopin' you'll break out yer 'lectric pen and mark up those St Vrain pictures...
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Feb 20, 2007 - 05:47pm PT
Sorry to dissappoint, Tarbooter, but I did like you. Skied and slogged up that long valley several times, winter and summer, and just never quite got motivated to climb. Not to say you couldn't find something...

That pic of the Devil's Thumb wall, however, shows the potential, there. A dozen obvious lines on that thing in summer, and several good ice and mixed lines in winter. Never heard of anything being done on it, but somebody must have done something? The best lines would have climbing equivalent to the best routes in RMNP. Reachable in about two hours from Rollins pass, unless you happen to be your wife, Lisa. Then it's probably about 30 minutes!
blackbird

Trad climber
over yonder en th' holler
Feb 20, 2007 - 09:26pm PT
gorgeous pics, tarhoney! thanx for sharin' (and sorry for the late kudos...!!)

BB
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2007 - 11:15pm PT
Right then, I guess I'll have to go the distance, romp soma that rubble and wield my own electric marker after the fact!

I agree about that wall next to the Devil's Thumb Jeff; nice grey granite.

It is hit and miss to tag a clear view when out on skis in these parts so close to the divide, but this weekend I'm going to try to snap a portrait of Shoshoni's south facin' towers, as I know they've been climbed...

And if you find anything like this hidin' out down your way Samantha, you'll be sure to share the secrit right?
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Feb 21, 2007 - 12:21pm PT
OK Tar, you bring home the bacon (pics of the south and west sides of Shoshoni, and maybe some of the broad south-facing cliffs of Apache, west of Shoshoni), and I'll be able to paint up some decent, fun lines for you there, from 5.8 to 5.10, from 5 to 8 pitches.

The most impressive wall in that area faces west off the Divide, a little north of Apache Peak. Looks a bit like a larger version of the Black Wall on Mt Evans. My cousin, George and I did an 800' 5.10 face and crack line on the right side, but to the left the wall overhangs from top to bottom. It's often dripping wet, though.

EDIT: That wet wall might provide an incredible mixed ice line in fall or spring.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2007 - 02:20pm PT
Jello,
So this last item you referenced must be visible from the drainage just east of Crater Lake Cirque, where Lone Eagle Peak sits; more or less directly between the divide and Lone Eagle.

I wanna do the long trudge up into that area to romp the remote Apache Glacier, so I should be in good position to see the wall which you and George climbed eh?.

We'll see how it goes visibility wise this Sunday when I get up towards Isabelle Glacier to take a real good look at Shoshoni & Apache.
goatboy smellz

climber
colorado
Feb 21, 2007 - 02:32pm PT
This where yah talking about, right above Triangle Lake?

Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Feb 21, 2007 - 04:01pm PT
Goat, the wall I'm talking about is just over the ridge in the far left foreground of your pic. I snagged some shots off the net to illustrate. (is this legal to do?? or ethical for personal use? to re-post a shot like this?)

Arrows on topo map idicate climbs on Shoshoni/Apache. Top circle indicates a nice west-facing buttress on Mt Toll, tha Mason Frischette and I climbed most of before traversing off below a problematical final pitch. The lower circle is the wall on the west flank of Shoshoni that I'm talking about.

George's and my route on the Shoshoni Wall.


The Shoshoni Wall is the saddle-back formation in the upper center right.
goatboy smellz

climber
colorado
Feb 21, 2007 - 04:22pm PT
Oooo! That looks pretty clean!

edit: Got it, due east from Lone Eagle Peak, looks fun.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2007 - 05:33pm PT
Nice Jeff, Thanks.

That's clearly one of the better things around here and I've not yet been in position to see it so well as it is presented in those photos.
L

climber
The City of Lost Angels
Feb 21, 2007 - 05:44pm PT
Nice thread Tar--you guys have some awesome photos here. Keep up the good work!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2007 - 09:54pm PT
Thanks L!

OK Jello,
No go on visibility this weekend in the Indian Peaks, so no clear shots of the buttress on Shoshoni or the East Facing Wall of Apache; I did manage the “Commando Run” (Vail Pass to Vail) on Friday & skied up into Coney Lake today, which sits below the N flank of Audubon.

So on to a scramble tour of the Continental Divide from Wild Basin to Isabelle Glacier.

I did this over 2 days in July of ’97 to get a good look at what the Indian Peaks has to offer.

I had only an approximate idea on my estimated time, very little info on the technical nature of the terrain, other than the 5.6 ridge of Mt Toll and it was suggested I do it N to S, so as to get the good “up” climbs along the ridge. My plan was to carry on over N & S Arapahoe Peaks as well.

I brought a bag & bivi sack, 3 days food, 2 quarts water, no stove. Steve Pomerance suggested July was good because I could use iodine and collect melt water. I wore Robbins boots & carried a 65cm aluminum ax and expected primarily 4th class terrain if I stuck strictly to the ridge. In lieu of a short length of rope, a few pieces, or a helmet, I of course wore my cowboy hat.

Here’s the start & part of the first day:


Here’s the second day, with bivi at the break mark:



And here’s what Kevin Cooney told me he did, on a long fall day:


Buz Burrel recently told me he did all of both projects in a day and dubbed it “The LA Freeway”

I think the original Pfiffner Traverse includes all of this as well.

That nice red headed alpinist guy from Boulder, Bruce Miller, loaned me his bivi sack for my trip and said he wanted to do it in reverse, ie, S to N, from Arapahoe Peaks to Longs in a day.

Awesome Trail Tracks Panoramic Hiking Maps by James Niehues & Fern Horn Endeavors.

Pictures to follow…
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2007 - 10:16pm PT
I started at 7am, reaching the Continental divide at 11am:


The drainage leading past Pipit Lake & up to the divide:


The Continental Divide, right where I gained it, at roughly 11+ or 12,000’:

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2007 - 10:32pm PT
I was pleased to find it very grassy & easy going during the initial few miles encountered along the ridge:


But clouds were gathering and lightning struck to the north, so I felt OK as my heading was south, away from the concentration of weather cells. This was my view to the south, heading over some easy summits above the St Vrain Glacier:


The Peaks in the background are L to R, Audubon, Paiute, & Toll; as it turned out, I bivied just before a long technical ridge leading to Paiute:

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2007 - 10:43pm PT
Hi Tim!
Yah, I went up into the clouds today, to Coney Lakes, which is a drainage off the St Vrain to the south. Pretty snowy. My partner was an ex US ski team GS champion, so I got quite a workout.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2007 - 10:56pm PT
This section of the ridge goes pretty quickly, only a touch of 3rd class scrambling:


Looking back towards Meeker & Longs, things were getting gnarlier:


So I kept up my pace, feeling somewhat chased.
Later, another view to the north,
I think that's Elk Tooth in clouds:


Then I got into these cool roller coaster sections.
And the clouds hung low, but were tame:

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