Pappy
Trad climber
Atlanta
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Feb 14, 2007 - 07:47pm PT
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Jello, some more fat GA ice:
almost time to start thinking about tying off the first screw...
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wootles
climber
Gamma Quadrant
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Feb 15, 2007 - 06:47pm PT
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Crimpy twisted my arm.
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wootles
climber
Gamma Quadrant
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Feb 15, 2007 - 09:00pm PT
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kev
climber
CA
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Feb 17, 2007 - 02:23pm PT
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bump - this is climbing related....
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2007 - 08:44pm PT
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In 1975 I made a pilgrimage to Scotland, birthplace of mixed climbing.
Ben Nevis in clearing storm:
I spent about six weeks climbing, about half the time out of Fort William while working on a film for National Geographic, featuring John Cunningham and Yvon Chouinard. When the weather was good, we were ferried to the top of the Ben by helicopter!
Clockwise from top left: Yvon, Johnny, Hamish Mackinnis and Tut Braithwaite.
There was a lot of down time, so Tut and I, who were riggers, had plenty of opportunity to drop down one of the easy gullies and simul-solo the classics. In the center of the photo below is the famous Zero Gully, led by MacKinnis in about 1957.
Edit: Scotland, part two:
Tut on a new route we soloed together.
Yvon and Johnny topping out in rare good weather on Ben Nevis.
Shelter Stone Crag, in the Cairgorms. The best route of my visit was the second ascent of the Citadel/Sticil Face link-up, which follows a line beginning in the middle of the point of the V formed by the bottom of the crag. The climb is about 1,000' high. Gordon Smith and I climbed it with one point of aid, which has since been eliminated, and the route is probably about M7 nowadays.
Gordon starting up the climb.
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Feb 19, 2007 - 06:41am PT
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fantastic snaps, J-Lo. Ever read "The Craggie" by G.J.F. Dutton (speaking o' scotland)?
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2007 - 11:17am PT
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Haven't read "The Craggie", 426. Worthwhile?
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Crag Q
Trad climber
Louisville, Colorado
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Feb 19, 2007 - 11:27am PT
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Jello, thanks for sharing your awesome photos! I'm way too chicken to climb ice that thin.
I was out last weekend and noticed that when my pick strikes rock and I expect ice, that I swing again just to make sure it's rock. Duh!
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Feb 19, 2007 - 07:34pm PT
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Jeff,
I’m still hoping we will get to climb sometime, maybe a sandstone classic here, or some quartzite out your way.
As to your Chamonix comment:Au contraire, Chamonix is not the Yosemite of alpine climbing, it is the World Capital of Alpinism AND Skiing! It says so right on the sign.
That thin and steep ice down South is very impressive, folks , even more so because I’ll bet it doesn’t last long.
Jeff –Thanks for posting the Scottish pics. Your mention of Gordon Smith reminded of Tobin telling me about climbing with him on the second ascent of the Desmaison route on the Grande Jorasses a couple of years later in 1977.
Rick
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Bump, an old thread to help you cool off on a hot day! Thin ice with Jello, Rick A., Duncan Ferguson and many more masters of the tippy toe!
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x15x15
climber
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Bump, an old thread to help you cool off on a hot day
it was so muggy and hot this morning... dreaming of cooler days ahead, and enough thin ice to keep us mortals happy too...
(reposted)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Yet another superb Jello thread...
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Sorry Steve, I'm not even attempting to compete with the "bump master":-)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Damn good maniacal Floyd song too!
The Thin Ice (Waters)
Momma loves her baby
And daddy loves you too.
And the sea may look warm to you babe
And the sky may look blue
But ooooh Baby
Ooooh baby blue
Oooooh babe.
If you should go skating
On the thin ice of modern life
Dragging behind you the silent reproach
Of a million tear-stained eyes
Don't be surprised when a crack in the ice
Appears under your feet.
You slip out of your depth and out of your mind
With your fear flowing out behind you
As you claw the thin ice.
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
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theres some SSIIIICK STUFF goin on up N heah!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Found some "good" conditions in the Big Horns in June of this year.So "Good" that we did not make it to the top. What a great thread. It was a 102 degrees here yesterday.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Holy S%^t Batman! Mike M , how many pitches is that thing in the 2nd pic, looks amazing?!
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