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Jingy
climber
Somewhere out there
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holy shit!!!
That is not ice climbing!!!!
That is insanity!!!!!!
Someones got some cool go nads
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Like this guy again!
Doug Tompkins soloing on Hell's Lum, Cairngorms, scotland. Yvon Chouinard photo.
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Sonic
Trad climber
Boulder, Co
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Dec 15, 2015 - 09:17am PT
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Tis thy season bump!
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overwatch
climber
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Dec 15, 2015 - 10:11am PT
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Wow! Crazy ass stuff, cool bump. How is Mr. Lowe doing these days?
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Dec 15, 2015 - 12:25pm PT
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Wow.
A tribute to the late Doug Tompkins. . .
and to Jello, Mal, and Duncan for that unreal Smear of Fear!
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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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Dec 15, 2015 - 02:03pm PT
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Great thread with some very brave climbers. Thank you!
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Dec 15, 2015 - 02:15pm PT
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Way BITD my partner and I climbed in Lee Vining Canyon when the ice was really thin. If I recall correctly, we climbed multiple pitches of slabby thin ice to the left of the main climbing area.
I led a pitch with no protection. Usually this lack of protection wasn't much of an issue for me on ice, except I was leading on verglass which wasn't very secure and I was scared shitless.
I placed a few tied off screws here and there that were totally worthless for protection but great for keeping me from panicking. I finally found a thick bulge of ice into which I would be able to fully sink my last remaining ice screw.
But the teeth on the ice screw tore off as I was trying to place the screw, so - I was screwed. No pro for the entire pitch.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Dec 16, 2015 - 10:13am PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Dec 16, 2015 - 10:16am PT
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 16, 2015 - 11:08am PT
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^^^Frightening...!
Kinda looks like Maple Canyon a bit.
Always thankful for any fixed pro on one of these thin ice routes. Ice Hawk is one of the few climbs where I dropped a tool (hit it on the bottom of the shaft with the top of my hand when going to grab it...ugh)...glad to get it back from my belayer...whew...
A lot of short thin routes to play on in Maple...some thankfully not that steep...
Chimneys can feel more secure...
Low angle thin ice slabs can be less fun with snow on them...!
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Dec 16, 2015 - 12:14pm PT
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I did the Lachenal Direct on the Triolet back in 1984. It had been a dry winter, and there was a section about 200 feet long that was too thin for pro. 1 to 2 inches thick max. It was below the steep part and was maybe 50 or 60 degrees. Not steep.
We had to simulclimb that section with no anchors, way up there, and it would have been certain death if either of us had fallen. We were warned that it was getting thin, but by the time we did it, it was terribly thin. The whole thing was gone a week later. The Droites and the Courtes had bare rock slabs instead of ice.
The ice was nice and soft, though. The climbing was pretty easy. It was just weird being way up there soloing with your partner. It was over in 5 or 10 minutes.
I have pics, but not of that part.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Dec 16, 2015 - 03:17pm PT
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I have always been in awe of the people that climb Tahquitz ice. That stuff is ballsy.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Dec 16, 2015 - 04:15pm PT
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Yeah. but you are sick....
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b'wana
Ice climber
wisconsin
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Dec 16, 2015 - 06:54pm PT
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here in the upper midwest much of the ice we get is frozen waterfalls. when you can hear the water flowing under the ice that's pretty normal. when you can see the water flowing that's getting a bit dicey. when you are getting wet from the holes in the ice it's time to be on toprope. but it's all fun.
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