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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Off-White, I have no particular problem with 'sprad' when applied to a project like this if it comes down to that or bolts. The issue I have with it is in folks thinking they are trad climbing in general just because they are using gear. Many kids these days go gym > sport > gear but never alter how they climb. Extended dogging on gear as a basic tactic to get up a route really isn't trad climbing and there have been an increasing number of accidents from folks assuming they can treat gear exactly like a bolt once it's placed.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2007 - 03:21pm PT
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We're not talking about the girdles you wear, PR. Don't you have those all fitted out with secret holsters and scabbards?
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Jeff: Yah, I was just free associating based on something Joe wrote somewhere that I recently read, offering more a quasi joke than a critique. I agree the pre-placed natural gear is preferable, and maximizes the options for future parties.
Joe: I was just ribbing you, you strike me as one of the stauncher clean climbing advocates out there with the chops to back it up too, not to mention the debate skills to work your side of the podium.
PR in a girdle with scabbards and holsters? Hmmm, is Ouch busy right now?
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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"A rising girdle sounds fun, Taco. You could probably make it just about as hard or easy as you want. Would yield about 2,000' feet of climbing, don't you think?
Edit: There is a sort of natural strata-line to follow that cuts all the way across the wall. In the photo above it follows the dark line both right and left of the leftward angling orange line that indicates the start of the Diving Board. "
Back in '76 my partner Jim Tangen-Foster and I put up a traverse section we called the 'Makanda Traverse' after our little crag town of Makanda in So.Ill. It's been a long time and can't quite picture exactly where it is, but we saw it from the start of Rosy Crucifixtion. It follows one of the strata lines Jeff is talking about and starts (more or less) down and left a bit from the start of R.C. and meets with and finishes on Yellow Spur. I remember sort of alternating no hands and no feet on it. I arrived on Yellow Spur out of rope with one stopper and made a directional anchor that held only towards R.C. for a semi-hanging belay. Jim came up and fell close the belay after the last piece due to a hold breaking and started to swing out in space doing a 180 degree rotation that, had it completed, would have had him out in space behind me and pulled the stopper. Fortunately for us the rope snagged in the notch of a shallow arete between the two of us and stopped him - we both were pretty shaken, but had a good time by the time we topped out on the Spur.
Off - no prob, I bait too easy...
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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and that's just how those things get started,...
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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What "things" Ron? Do you mean internet misunderstandings, girdle traverses, or ludicrous slander about guys in girdles?
Online conversation without the added information of inflection and body language is really tough. For instance, I'm giving you a sly grin from 1200 miles away and you can't even see it.
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wbw
climber
'cross the great divide
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Tar,
Derek did pre-inspect "To RP . . .", although he always characterized it as a cursory look for the tiny gear placements that would be involved. To my knowledge it has not been repeated, and one thing that Derek was very proud of was the fact that when Wolfgang Gullich came to town, Derek could not get him to attempt a repeat. In hindsight one would think that Wolfgang was well up to the challenge.
Jello, that is a fantastic part of Eldo. I will probably never be up to your proposed route, but I love climbing the Diving Board, and have done the Edge more than once (have never managed the "Backstroke Move" free.) That section of Redgarden feels like being on a big wall.
Off topic question to the Master: have you ever done
Mouse-ka-tears? It has been in this year. Ice climbing in Eldo. is a trip!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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nor can you see mine,...
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2007 - 03:02am PT
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Hey, Hank, how's it hangin', old man? -Jeff
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 10, 2007 - 11:53am PT
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Hey Hank,
Weren't you heating up yer boiler to do RP at one point?
I remember we talked briefly about Derek's recommendation of a required perlon protection point...
-Roy
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 10, 2007 - 11:05pm PT
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Way tah call it out Smokey!
Dats right folks, you heard it here at the Taco; we ain't done with Eldo yet, nope.
And furthermore, while I'm at it, here's a cute 'lil pick of The Hankster, just to put some face to the conversation.
(Sorry Hank, but it's whut I do best)
Taco Belles, eat yer hearts out.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2007 - 02:03am PT
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Hank, after you cruise RP, why don't you get on up and take a look at my route suggestion? You're just the sort of lad for it!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 11, 2007 - 02:09am PT
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Werd.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 11, 2007 - 12:11pm PT
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Hank,
That shot came from that season here in Boulder when we all went out routinely cuttin' the rug in the clubs, en masse...
It was taken the morning after this one:
No worries bro, the archival pleasure's all mine; ...mine, mine, mine.
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flamer
Trad climber
denver
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Feb 11, 2007 - 12:12pm PT
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Are those friendship bracelets...rasta boy?
I'd still climb with you hank....
josh
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 11, 2007 - 07:45pm PT
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This somewhere in Eldorado canyon I have no clue what route. Ron Kauk leading & John Bachar belaying. Jello and Tarbuster are probably at the base screaming profanities at them.
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North Eldo
climber
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Feb 11, 2007 - 09:53pm PT
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Hmmmm...Looks more like p2 (guide book p3) of Kings X to me...
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2007 - 10:24pm PT
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Agreed, King's X
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2007 - 12:57am PT
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's OK, Hank. You don't have to be smart when you're talented and good lookin'.
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Kevster
Trad climber
Evergreen, CO
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Feb 15, 2007 - 09:49am PT
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Jello,
Your route sounds a lot like Centaur to me....Getting through the "great" rock band that protects Diving Board would be exciting. I have often wondered if you could link the start of Naked Edge with the finish of Diving board. Getting around the edge of the buttress would be exciting.
It would be rad if someone like Matt Segal or another "next gen" Boulder climber went for it ground up.
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