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wilbeer
Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
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Jan 24, 2019 - 02:36pm PT
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Lol
Start by ice scrambling,practice tooling,ascend to bouldering. Find someone to follow or second. Learn protection. Bring first aid. Don’t go alone. Enjoy.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jan 24, 2019 - 02:42pm PT
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Don't go alone unless you like moving fast and staying warm ;)
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
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Jan 24, 2019 - 02:59pm PT
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Tradman,I should have added what Norm told you over on that Tele thread,”Find a spot where the sun doesn’t ever shine on the coldest day of the year". Lol.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jan 24, 2019 - 03:26pm PT
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just went bouldering in a torrential rain.. Did 4 50ish ft laps and quit when I was so soaked that my glasses were hopelessly fogged and I could not get them cleared… got rather chilled on the ride home...
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
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Jan 24, 2019 - 03:32pm PT
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Yep,last weekend 20 inches of snow and single digit or below temps,yesterday,50 degrees and 2 inches of rain. Now it is snowing hard.
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Bale
Mountain climber
UT
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Jan 24, 2019 - 04:40pm PT
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Like others have mentioned, flick the wrist, keep the heels down, swing, kick, kick. Also, try to stagger your tools vertically as ice tends to fracture horizontally. Look for pockets/ depressions for your feet as you would in rock climbing. Know that you WILL be hit by ice so for hell’s sake wear a helmet. A good stick is almost orgasmic:)
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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Jan 24, 2019 - 05:24pm PT
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To remember that seconding pure ice just isn't that difficult compared to hard rock... if it feels hard on second or TR, it's in your head. Footwork. using little features and hips and positioning over pure pullups and swinging too hard. Leading ice is a different world.
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Bale
Mountain climber
UT
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Jan 24, 2019 - 05:45pm PT
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Fear, I feel the same about leading ice, even at the easy grades I climb. That screw MIGHT hold a fall, but it’s hard to get outta your head that you MIGHT be soloing.
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johntp
Trad climber
By decision or indecision we are where we are.
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Jan 24, 2019 - 05:54pm PT
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Buy a copy of the ice experience and climbing ice.
It's no big deal. Sh#t, soloed WI and AI 4 with SMC poons, Galibier super guides and straight shafted Chouinard axe and alpine hammer.
I'd rather solo ice than follow.
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Bale
Mountain climber
UT
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Jan 24, 2019 - 06:00pm PT
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Idk, RobertL, probably footwork? I’ve known a few people who are good rock climbers, yet on ice they have a super timid swing. I want to say, “pretend like you’re throwing a baseball”, but what if they’ve never thrown a baseball lol. I’m not a good teacher.
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Bale
Mountain climber
UT
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Jan 24, 2019 - 06:05pm PT
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Anita, those are good, the triangle/ stability concept really helped me. Freedom of the Hills used to say to keep your body in the X position, no bueno.
Has anyone mentioned to hang as much as possible? Just as in rock climbing, you will tire faster if your arms are locked at 90 and you’re over gripping. Someone once told me, “sh#t, then screw”, pardon my French.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 24, 2019 - 06:07pm PT
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Swing like you’re throwing dice, which you are in effect.
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johntp
Trad climber
By decision or indecision we are where we are.
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Jan 24, 2019 - 06:10pm PT
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hey johhtp, that's amazing!
Not really. Plenty were doing it in the 80's.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Jan 24, 2019 - 06:11pm PT
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I tried crampons but they poked a bunch of holes in my pants so I took them off try some tr dry tooling?
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Jan 24, 2019 - 06:15pm PT
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climbing ice is so absurd that applied logic is only a hindrance.
This.
I took a clinic in 1976 from a couple of the best ice climbers on the planet. Half the class got frost bitten toes and one of the guys running the clinic smashed himself in the face with an axe while demonstrating technique. When his face thawed out he started bleeding and we took him to emergency.
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Bale
Mountain climber
UT
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Jan 24, 2019 - 06:23pm PT
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YER GONNA DIE!!!
Reilly, 7/10
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Jan 24, 2019 - 10:33pm PT
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I suggest you NOT lead Cascade Falls (Banff) with an 85 cm walking axe and a Chouinard alpine hammer.
Use two Chouinard climbaxes.
Remember climbaxes?
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Jan 25, 2019 - 06:07am PT
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Ice climbed one season, circa winter of 1982-83. Had early Footfangs without the little crossbar on the front points that would tear through all but the hardest of ice and two Chouinard ice axes and what I thought was warm clothing. I froze my ass off belaying and then following pitches in the Catskills. Gored myself with the frontpoints. Almost put my eye out with the ice axes.
In the spring of 1983 I was rock climbing at the local choss pile. Came back to the 1974 AMC Matador and noticed glass on the ground, the back driver side passenger window smashed out and the ice gear gone. The odd thing was the Whillans harness was still there along with a small rack of gear. AND all of my cassette tapes were still there in a shoebox right next to the climbing gear.
(1) Must have been some psychotic freakshow who broke into the car
(2) Happiest day of the year for me
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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Jan 25, 2019 - 07:09am PT
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I've got to add that MODERN axes like Quarks or Nomics or most any of the new radically curved shaft tools are absolutely light years ahead of any straight or "bent" shaft tools from pre 98-ish....
Seriously if you had a sh!tty time on ice before give the new tools a try. I started on Pulsars which were a bent-shaft steep-droop design of the mid-90's... Absolutely horrible knuckle-destroying machines.
New tools and sharp picks require very little effort to get good sticks in all but the most brittle conditions (which suck no matter what).
The gear really makes a huge difference with ice...
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SuperTopo on the Web
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keep heels down
Let us know!