Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 57 of total 57 in this topic |
Cragcloud
Trad climber
Denmark
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 24, 2019 - 01:30am PT
|
Hi all
Being a rather experienced ice climber I often get the question, how and where should I start?
For that reason I have made a short video explaining five things I believe a beginner should know before they start ice climbing.
Watch https://youtu.be/6jQRf7MYRww if you are interested :)
And what would be your biggest questions if you were to start ice climbing?
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2019 - 03:33am PT
|
Go to Ouray, Co. during the Ice Festival. You’ll be able to take clinics from real pros and demo gear from nearly thirty vendors. There are over 180 climbs within walking distance of good expresso and micro brewery beer.
|
|
sween345
climber
back east
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2019 - 04:06am PT
|
How do they get the rope up there?
|
|
fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2019 - 04:30am PT
|
A lot of ice is very remote, if yer new start on stuff close to a road/vehicle or rescue.... Ouray is just about the perfect setup.
|
|
Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2019 - 06:36am PT
|
Learning to climb hacked ice with holes and steps is not a good start
Unclimbed ice is the prize
|
|
AP
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2019 - 07:31am PT
|
Tami Knight made some good cartoons about ice climbers.
She would suggest starting with a lobotomy
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2019 - 08:36am PT
|
Yeah, it’s expensive to get started but the gear lasts a long time. You need to learn to ice climb if you want to venture into the alpine and not squander a lifetime being just a rock climber.
When I say “alpine” I’m not referring to Dana, Conness, the Incredible Hulk etc.
Although a life squandered climbing just rock isn't a half bad idea and can increase your longevity.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2019 - 08:48am PT
|
any of the ice fests are a way to get started or you could just Solo Widows Tears like Vitaly!. The kit is pretty steep but it's better than gym climbing all winter ;)
|
|
Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2019 - 08:54am PT
|
To paraphrase a saying in surfing,
"If you don't ice climb, don't start"
And not for the same reasons...
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2019 - 09:00am PT
|
I thought one started at the bottom?
|
|
briham89
Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2019 - 09:19am PT
|
^^beat me to it as well
|
|
hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2019 - 11:26am PT
|
^^^^^^$5K???
The cost of ice climbing seems to have kept up with the rising cost of university tuition!!
We started out with a combo of summer gear, and some new ice stuff. Soft boots and an MSR axe from the summer, and some new items from Lowe.
....Lowe Footfangs $75-?
....Lowe Bigbird $75-?
....Lowe's book on how to climb ice $20-?
....4 or 5 screws $100-?
The MSR is the orange axe, the Bigbird is the blue blur.
Somehow it all worked.
Hi to Mal Al :)
|
|
AP
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2019 - 12:49pm PT
|
It may have worked just not very well.
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2019 - 12:52pm PT
|
Anybody that used an MSR on real ice gets my respect,
and sympathy.
|
|
ecdh
climber
the east
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2019 - 01:06pm PT
|
i advise people to not get into ice climbing. if they happily accept my reasoning they were never going to get far with it anyway.
climbing ice is so absurd that applied logic is only a hindrance.
|
|
fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2019 - 01:06pm PT
|
FWIW, you can get a set of great used Quarks for $300 or less... Buy new boots and rigid pons figure ~$700.
Done.
Don't buy any screws until you've followed someone... a lot...
|
|
Bethesda
Trad climber
Bethesda
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2019 - 01:19pm PT
|
Wiley's Slide!! And you can do it with one axe --probably could get rental boots in North Conway although still have to buy crampons (could possibly find used ones)
And if you don't like the sport, you can go back to rock or plastic -- e.g., my significant other, who didn't care for the frozen fingers or for being hit in the face by shards of falling ice.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2019 - 01:27pm PT
|
it was crazy expensive when I got into it in the early 80s. Probobly paied pretty close to $100.00 for my chiounard ax but I made 7 bucks an hour...
|
|
the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2019 - 01:39pm PT
|
I've only been ice climbing a couple times. I rented gear (boots, axes, crampons) and top roped with my rock climbing gear.
I live in California where there's great skiing but limited ice climbing, and I prefer skiing to ice climbing, so I learned that it was really fun, but something I didn't want to dedicate the time to pursue.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2019 - 02:02pm PT
|
SQUANDER SQUANDER!!! Lol
|
|
wilbeer
Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2019 - 02:36pm PT
|
Lol
Start by ice scrambling,practice tooling,ascend to bouldering. Find someone to follow or second. Learn protection. Bring first aid. Don’t go alone. Enjoy.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2019 - 02:42pm PT
|
Don't go alone unless you like moving fast and staying warm ;)
|
|
wilbeer
Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2019 - 02:59pm PT
|
Tradman,I should have added what Norm told you over on that Tele thread,”Find a spot where the sun doesn’t ever shine on the coldest day of the year". Lol.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2019 - 03:26pm PT
|
just went bouldering in a torrential rain.. Did 4 50ish ft laps and quit when I was so soaked that my glasses were hopelessly fogged and I could not get them cleared… got rather chilled on the ride home...
|
|
wilbeer
Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2019 - 03:32pm PT
|
Yep,last weekend 20 inches of snow and single digit or below temps,yesterday,50 degrees and 2 inches of rain. Now it is snowing hard.
|
|
Bale
Mountain climber
UT
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2019 - 04:40pm PT
|
Like others have mentioned, flick the wrist, keep the heels down, swing, kick, kick. Also, try to stagger your tools vertically as ice tends to fracture horizontally. Look for pockets/ depressions for your feet as you would in rock climbing. Know that you WILL be hit by ice so for hell’s sake wear a helmet. A good stick is almost orgasmic:)
|
|
fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2019 - 05:24pm PT
|
To remember that seconding pure ice just isn't that difficult compared to hard rock... if it feels hard on second or TR, it's in your head. Footwork. using little features and hips and positioning over pure pullups and swinging too hard. Leading ice is a different world.
|
|
Bale
Mountain climber
UT
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2019 - 05:45pm PT
|
Fear, I feel the same about leading ice, even at the easy grades I climb. That screw MIGHT hold a fall, but it’s hard to get outta your head that you MIGHT be soloing.
|
|
johntp
Trad climber
By decision or indecision we are where we are.
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2019 - 05:54pm PT
|
Buy a copy of the ice experience and climbing ice.
It's no big deal. Sh#t, soloed WI and AI 4 with SMC poons, Galibier super guides and straight shafted Chouinard axe and alpine hammer.
I'd rather solo ice than follow.
|
|
Bale
Mountain climber
UT
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2019 - 06:00pm PT
|
Idk, RobertL, probably footwork? I’ve known a few people who are good rock climbers, yet on ice they have a super timid swing. I want to say, “pretend like you’re throwing a baseball”, but what if they’ve never thrown a baseball lol. I’m not a good teacher.
|
|
Bale
Mountain climber
UT
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2019 - 06:05pm PT
|
Anita, those are good, the triangle/ stability concept really helped me. Freedom of the Hills used to say to keep your body in the X position, no bueno.
Has anyone mentioned to hang as much as possible? Just as in rock climbing, you will tire faster if your arms are locked at 90 and you’re over gripping. Someone once told me, “sh#t, then screw”, pardon my French.
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2019 - 06:07pm PT
|
Swing like you’re throwing dice, which you are in effect.
|
|
johntp
Trad climber
By decision or indecision we are where we are.
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2019 - 06:10pm PT
|
hey johhtp, that's amazing!
Not really. Plenty were doing it in the 80's.
|
|
jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2019 - 06:11pm PT
|
I tried crampons but they poked a bunch of holes in my pants so I took them off try some tr dry tooling?
|
|
Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2019 - 06:15pm PT
|
climbing ice is so absurd that applied logic is only a hindrance.
This.
I took a clinic in 1976 from a couple of the best ice climbers on the planet. Half the class got frost bitten toes and one of the guys running the clinic smashed himself in the face with an axe while demonstrating technique. When his face thawed out he started bleeding and we took him to emergency.
|
|
Bale
Mountain climber
UT
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2019 - 06:23pm PT
|
YER GONNA DIE!!!
Reilly, 7/10
|
|
Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2019 - 10:33pm PT
|
I suggest you NOT lead Cascade Falls (Banff) with an 85 cm walking axe and a Chouinard alpine hammer.
Use two Chouinard climbaxes.
Remember climbaxes?
|
|
Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
|
|
|
Jan 25, 2019 - 06:07am PT
|
Ice climbed one season, circa winter of 1982-83. Had early Footfangs without the little crossbar on the front points that would tear through all but the hardest of ice and two Chouinard ice axes and what I thought was warm clothing. I froze my ass off belaying and then following pitches in the Catskills. Gored myself with the frontpoints. Almost put my eye out with the ice axes.
In the spring of 1983 I was rock climbing at the local choss pile. Came back to the 1974 AMC Matador and noticed glass on the ground, the back driver side passenger window smashed out and the ice gear gone. The odd thing was the Whillans harness was still there along with a small rack of gear. AND all of my cassette tapes were still there in a shoebox right next to the climbing gear.
(1) Must have been some psychotic freakshow who broke into the car
(2) Happiest day of the year for me
|
|
fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
|
|
|
Jan 25, 2019 - 07:09am PT
|
I've got to add that MODERN axes like Quarks or Nomics or most any of the new radically curved shaft tools are absolutely light years ahead of any straight or "bent" shaft tools from pre 98-ish....
Seriously if you had a sh!tty time on ice before give the new tools a try. I started on Pulsars which were a bent-shaft steep-droop design of the mid-90's... Absolutely horrible knuckle-destroying machines.
New tools and sharp picks require very little effort to get good sticks in all but the most brittle conditions (which suck no matter what).
The gear really makes a huge difference with ice...
|
|
Bale
Mountain climber
UT
|
|
|
Jan 25, 2019 - 07:57am PT
|
Fear, I started with Charlet Axars which I think were worse than Pulsars. My knuckles still haven’t forgiven me. I’ve been on Cobras for about ten years and they are sweet swingers. You’re right, it seems like there was about a ten year span around the turn of the century when the tech radically improved and the straight shafted, leashed tools went the way of the Dodo.
|
|
anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
|
|
|
Jan 25, 2019 - 08:09am PT
|
Some people might think visors are good too
I disagree
|
|
Bale
Mountain climber
UT
|
|
|
Jan 25, 2019 - 09:04am PT
|
Anita, same.
|
|
johntp
Trad climber
By decision or indecision we are where we are.
|
|
|
Jan 25, 2019 - 10:57am PT
|
The odd thing was the Whillans harness was still there along with a small rack of gear. AND all of my cassette tapes were still there in a shoebox right next to the climbing gear.
That made me laugh out loud.
|
|
Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
|
|
|
Jan 25, 2019 - 12:50pm PT
|
first, find some ice
second, get a lobotomy. winter climbing is dumb.
thirdly, climb dat ice.
repeat. except the lobotomy part. you only need to do that once
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Jan 25, 2019 - 01:31pm PT
|
Oplopanax for the win ;)
|
|
johntp
Trad climber
By decision or indecision we are where we are.
|
|
|
Jan 25, 2019 - 01:33pm PT
|
Some people might think visors are good too
I disagree
The perils of ice
That is why I'd rather solo than follow. Dinner plates can hurt.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Jan 25, 2019 - 03:11pm PT
|
Yes Bale. If you are in VT I will get out with you.
|
|
Bale
Mountain climber
UT
|
|
|
Jan 25, 2019 - 05:30pm PT
|
That is very kind of you Tradman. Maybe I can make it out there next year. Be safe and be well.
|
|
Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
|
|
|
Jan 25, 2019 - 08:02pm PT
|
At the bottom.
|
|
fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2019 - 06:17am PT
|
Is that stairway to heaven in that last shot?
|
|
Cragcloud
Trad climber
Denmark
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2019 - 07:21am PT
|
Thank you for the feedback, Robert, and absolutely great additions too 😄
|
|
the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
|
|
What is the true total cost of the 1st 10 pitches of ice actually climbed?
Include gear + rack, clothing, gas, food, and any training or lodging fees that are required.
> $5K?
As I mentioned up thread I tried it by renting gear (boots, crampons, axes), using my climbing gear to top rope, and my ski clothes. So it only cost me less than $100. But even then, 20 years ago, I was having trouble finding a place to rent. That was in upstate NY. In Cali it's probably not possible. With that in mind I'd say your best bet would be to take an ice climbing class that provides gear for about $400. Then you'd see if it's something you'd want to pursue.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
Your biggest cost is mountain boots. I just sold two pairs of crampons for 40 bucks each. used tools are out there. If you really want it you can get started on the cheap.
|
|
Cragcloud
Trad climber
Denmark
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2019 - 04:39am PT
|
Ohh definitely! Mountain boots are expensive. You can sometimes get a bargain on the internet, but usually the selection of sizes are quite narrow then
|
|
| Messages 1 - 57 of total 57 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
keep heels down
Let us know!