Slab is coming back?


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Messages 21 - 40 of total 58 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 29, 2018 - 09:31am PT
60 footers?

[Click to View Linked Image]

Aug 29, 2018 - 09:46am PT
I wonder where it is coming back from; maybe a couple of years partying with Buffet down in the Keys?

The Meadows delivers hella in this realm and one of the reasons I dig it so..

Kris, thanks for those pics of CarsonKodas. When I started climbing I lived in Bako and did the KernCanyon/Dome/Needles things. The horror stories of respect I had heard about you guys and your route devo blew my mind and still does. When you add R to your life, an enhancement occurs can that can come from nothing but climbing.
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Aug 29, 2018 - 09:49am PT
Slab never left
August West

Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
Aug 29, 2018 - 10:51am PT
If I recall correctly, one didn't feel safe on many routes until the second bolt was clipped.

Maybe you have a different comfort zone. My experience on the Apron and up in Tuolumne is that one didn't feel safe until they had clipped the final anchor and sometimes not even then because of having to free solo up the unprotected fourth class slabs to top out and get down.

I had a few long skin/rubber burns but nothing serious. Had a partner that tumbled once and had to take a few months off climbing.

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2018 - 10:59am PT
Lot of instas are gym slabs...

Interesting hashtag to peruse.
Don Paul

Social climber
Washington DC
Aug 29, 2018 - 12:48pm PT
It's the strategic tick marking of phenocrysts with superglue that will bring on the 5.14's lol.

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Aug 29, 2018 - 01:06pm PT
Slab climbing is neither.

I've got a few slabs for you that are mos def climbs :-)

Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
Aug 29, 2018 - 01:29pm PT
Second to Ron Carson, Herb is the best climber at stance drilling I know.

+1 for Herbantor! Even the stuff he put up at Book Rock looks spooky as hell. Stance from what?!?!? He'll be coming back for a quick week long stay in a week. Marco and I are trying to wrangle him up for one last hoo-rah before he heads out to AZ for good.

Herb on the sharp end, putting in something new.

Credit: mooch

Aug 29, 2018 - 07:37pm PT
Thin stances, great slab routes @ Parker Bluff in the Kern.


Aug 29, 2018 - 09:15pm PT
Mr. Fantasy following 1st Burning Arches pitch.
Mr. Fantasy following 1st Burning Arches pitch.
Credit: bob

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Aug 29, 2018 - 09:59pm PT
Laeger taking a break on the shore of Courtright Reservoir. We were on our way up to Locke Rock.

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Aug 29, 2018 - 10:28pm PT
Takiní in some Herb...

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Aug 30, 2018 - 03:20am PT
Slab climbing? Did just enough to say not just no - but hell no.

from out where the anecdotes roam
Aug 30, 2018 - 05:49am PT
i got no problem with the description "solid, all around ..."

who wants to look up and hear "no son, not for you?"

there's more to it, if you plain love moving up

Trad climber
Aug 30, 2018 - 07:53am PT
I put up a 5.12 b slab route ("Touchy Feelie") in Sinks Canyon, Wyo. It was, at the time, the most feared route in the Sinks, and has had very few repeats. Anyone can pull down on big holds, but you need to sack up when there is nothing to pull on, and your only pro is a shitty 1/4" bolt far below your feet.
Jeremy Ross

Gym climber
Aug 30, 2018 - 08:16am PT
^^^^ maybe I'm wrong, but that comment makes me think you've not bolted a hard slab on lead.

Jingus Newroutaineer
Aug 30, 2018 - 08:45am PT
^^^and this AC dude craps his pants on 5.8 slab lol.

@Scole: Lol worthy route dude.

Trad climber
Aug 30, 2018 - 08:54am PT

I find it laughable when someone takes pride in bolting "the most feared route" somewhere... as if they did something more than masterbate all over the rock while others of similar perversion look on, drooling over the mess that only a "special" few feel compelled to lap up.

Tell us about your noteworthy FAs.

Trad climber
Aug 30, 2018 - 09:10am PT
Many of my best memories of climbing are routes where I was mentally pushed right to the edge. Long runouts teach you something about yourself that you will never learn anywhere else and I think prepare you well for life.

Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Aug 30, 2018 - 09:15am PT
^^ Yes.
One of my best memories is of a slab route. I kept looking at it, and turning around. That bolt was way off the deck. Then one day, I did it.
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