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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Aug 29, 2018 - 09:49am PT
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Slab never left
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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Aug 29, 2018 - 10:51am PT
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If I recall correctly, one didn't feel safe on many routes until the second bolt was clipped.
Maybe you have a different comfort zone. My experience on the Apron and up in Tuolumne is that one didn't feel safe until they had clipped the final anchor and sometimes not even then because of having to free solo up the unprotected fourth class slabs to top out and get down.
I had a few long skin/rubber burns but nothing serious. Had a partner that tumbled once and had to take a few months off climbing.
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Don Paul
Social climber
Washington DC
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Aug 29, 2018 - 12:48pm PT
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It's the strategic tick marking of phenocrysts with superglue that will bring on the 5.14's lol.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Aug 29, 2018 - 01:06pm PT
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Slab climbing is neither.
I've got a few slabs for you that are mos def climbs :-)
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Aug 29, 2018 - 01:29pm PT
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Second to Ron Carson, Herb is the best climber at stance drilling I know.
+1 for Herbantor! Even the stuff he put up at Book Rock looks spooky as hell. Stance from what?!?!? He'll be coming back for a quick week long stay in a week. Marco and I are trying to wrangle him up for one last hoo-rah before he heads out to AZ for good.
Herb on the sharp end, putting in something new.
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ec
climber
ca
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Aug 29, 2018 - 07:37pm PT
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Thin stances, great slab routes @ Parker Bluff in the Kern.
 ec
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bob
climber
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Aug 29, 2018 - 09:15pm PT
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Aug 29, 2018 - 09:59pm PT
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Laeger taking a break on the shore of Courtright Reservoir. We were on our way up to Locke Rock.
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ec
climber
ca
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Aug 29, 2018 - 10:28pm PT
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Takin’ in some Herb...
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Aug 30, 2018 - 03:20am PT
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Slab climbing? Did just enough to say not just no - but hell no.
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Aug 30, 2018 - 05:49am PT
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i got no problem with the description "solid, all around ..."
who wants to look up and hear "no son, not for you?"
there's more to it, if you plain love moving up
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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Aug 30, 2018 - 07:53am PT
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I put up a 5.12 b slab route ("Touchy Feelie") in Sinks Canyon, Wyo. It was, at the time, the most feared route in the Sinks, and has had very few repeats. Anyone can pull down on big holds, but you need to sack up when there is nothing to pull on, and your only pro is a shitty 1/4" bolt far below your feet.
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EdwardT
Trad climber
Retired
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Aug 30, 2018 - 08:54am PT
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AntiChrist
I find it laughable when someone takes pride in bolting "the most feared route" somewhere... as if they did something more than masterbate all over the rock while others of similar perversion look on, drooling over the mess that only a "special" few feel compelled to lap up.
Tell us about your noteworthy FAs.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Aug 30, 2018 - 09:10am PT
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Many of my best memories of climbing are routes where I was mentally pushed right to the edge. Long runouts teach you something about yourself that you will never learn anywhere else and I think prepare you well for life.
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Aug 30, 2018 - 09:15am PT
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^^ Yes.
One of my best memories is of a slab route. I kept looking at it, and turning around. That bolt was way off the deck. Then one day, I did it.
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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Aug 30, 2018 - 10:43am PT
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Anti christ
"I find it laughable when someone takes pride in bolting "the most feared route" somewhere."
My post was meant to be ironic. In a world class sport crag famous for hard overhanging pocket pulling, a 5.12 route is on the easy end of things. It was the nature of the route, not its grade, that kept the crowds off
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Don Paul
Social climber
Washington DC
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Aug 30, 2018 - 11:08am PT
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Well, of course, if youre totally gripped on a route you are going to remember it better than a clip up route. I took an upside down fall while liebacking the good book, I was looking at my feet and the sky and two cams pulling out. I remember every millisecond of it lol.
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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Aug 30, 2018 - 11:37am PT
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"must be on that sandy sh#t down low."
Not sandy at all. Hard, clean Dolomite, just low angle and thin.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Aug 30, 2018 - 12:58pm PT
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I love slab climbing. It’s really fun, after the fact.
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