Slab is coming back?

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Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 28, 2018 - 03:19pm PT
anyone else notice their news feed filled with sponsored bouldering gym climbers setting and sending slab problems?


Is this a new wave?

Ondra does a slab problem? what?

Just another product being pushed by the sponsored-elite via Instajam?


SlabDyno4lyfe!

-removed image to prevent FB from copying without permission
johntp

Trad climber
Little Rock and Loving It
Aug 28, 2018 - 03:38pm PT
sponsored bouldering gym climbers setting and sending slab problems?

Guess I don't get the news feeds you do. Links? Are they setting them ground up or rap bolted? Sport slabs with bolts every five feet or trad runouts?
Gary

Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Aug 28, 2018 - 03:46pm PT
It's fake slab if you top rope to the first bolt. Hell, getting to the first bolt is all the fun.
johntp

Trad climber
Little Rock and Loving It
Aug 28, 2018 - 04:12pm PT
Hell, getting to the first bolt is all the fun.

At Suicide/Taquitz/TM/JT climbing slabs to the first bolt was "stimulating".

edit: If I recall correctly, one didn't feel safe on many routes until the second bolt was clipped.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2018 - 04:17pm PT
The pic is definitely 'post op' er, I think?


https://www.instagram.com/p/BmIMLIFhdTN/?taken-by=adam.ondra
ec

climber
ca
Aug 28, 2018 - 04:22pm PT
Hell, getting to the first bolt is all the fun.

At Suicide/Taquitz/TM/JT climbing slabs to the first bolt was "stimulating".

Southern Sierra, Sequoia/Kings, Kern Canyon!

Pressure Sensitive, Moro Rock, SNPphoto: David Hickey, E.C. Joe collec...
Pressure Sensitive, Moro Rock, SNPphoto: David Hickey, E.C. Joe collection
Credit: ec

Pressure Sensitive, Moro Rock, SNP, start of pitch 2
Pressure Sensitive, Moro Rock, SNP, start of pitch 2
Credit: ec

Archangel, Cherubim Dome, SNP, CA
Archangel, Cherubim Dome, SNP, CA
Credit: leversee

Dude in Red, Moro Oro, Moro Rock, SNP, CA
Dude in Red, Moro Oro, Moro Rock, SNP, CA
Credit: R Ardesch

Moro Oro headwall, looking at all that SLAB, Moro Rock, SNP
Moro Oro headwall, looking at all that SLAB, Moro Rock, SNP
Credit: ec

 ec
Jeremy Ross

Gym climber
Aug 28, 2018 - 04:24pm PT
I actually really like slab climbing for the most part.

The type that can also be referred to as thin face lol. Hate most low angle slab, get's boring.
Lorenzo

Trad climber
Portland Oregon
Aug 28, 2018 - 04:32pm PT
It's fake slab if you top rope to the first bolt. Hell, getting to the first bolt is all the fun.

Nah, the real fun starts when it is three times as far to the second bolt and the crux is just before it.
johntp

Trad climber
Little Rock and Loving It
Aug 28, 2018 - 04:34pm PT
When I was a youth in DFW and Norman climbed a bit at Quartz Mountain. Dug out my Southern Exposure guidebook Raleigh and Thomas put out.

That puppy had quite a few X rated routes. Several had no pro till the first pitch belay bolts. After that were long ass runouts. The common thought when climbing those routes was a hip belay by the second was mandatory. Reason being a sticht plate would not allow the second (belayer) to yard in enough rope to prevent a leader groundfall.
Gary

Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Aug 28, 2018 - 04:51pm PT
Nah, the real fun starts when it is three times as far to the second bolt and the crux is just before it.

And traversing!
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Aug 28, 2018 - 04:55pm PT

A slab of New York on the barb'q.
Lorenzo

Trad climber
Portland Oregon
Aug 28, 2018 - 05:16pm PT
Several had no pro till the first pitch belay bolts. After that were long ass runouts. The common thought when climbing those routes was a hip belay by the second was mandatory. Reason being a sticht plate would not allow the second (belayer) to yard in enough rope to prevent a leader groundfall.

At Stone Mtn. NC, the “running belay” was just that. If the leader fell, you turned and ran to take in slack.

The worst injury I saw there was a belayer who turned and ran when the leader fell just before the belay on Mercury’s Lead. She ran into a tree. The first bolt was at 40 ft, then nothing to the end.

The leader lost big chunks of flesh from his palms, which I had to climb past when it was my turn and to retrieve their gear.

I think ebeck was with me that day.

The white streak
The white streak
Credit: Lorenzo
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Aug 28, 2018 - 05:43pm PT
Nah, the real fun starts when it is three times as far to the second bolt and the crux is just before it.

A perfect description of the steep slab leading to the arete on Carson Kodas Arete at Courtright...

The second bolt (with someone's bail biner on it) is by the thin right facing flake above. It's 5.10 something to rock up onto that sloper just above my left hand to make the clip. That move, stepping up to the drilling/clipping stance is not the crux of the route, but it's sure as hell the scariest. Yikes.


Silly me in the no fall zone. Carson-Kodas Arete.
Silly me in the no fall zone. Carson-Kodas Arete.
Credit: Ksolem
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Aug 28, 2018 - 05:50pm PT
I've done a few new routes with Laeger. Second to Ron Carson, Herb is the best climber at stance drilling I know.
johntp

Trad climber
Little Rock and Loving It
Aug 28, 2018 - 06:12pm PT
The leader lost big chunks of flesh from his palms,

Base104 took a 100' slider at Quartz. Wasted his EB's(?) and had serious road rash. At least that's the story I remember.

edit: here's the story from R&I:

"In 1980 my college roommate, Mark Herndon, fell 100 feet on a two-pitch route. I was belaying from a stance at the end of the first pitch, cooling my feet, shoes off. Mark had just cruised the second-pitch crux, a near-holdless paddle up granite glass, and was nearing the end of a 50-foot runout above the route’s only lead bolt when he slipped.

Back at the belay, I figured that the serious climbing was over and was gazing stupidly at my toes when a giant loop of slack suddenly spooled down the face. I glanced up to see Mark looming larger and larger.

I froze, horrified by the prospect of witnessing—and catching—the daddy of all falls. As Mark scorched past me, I caught a strong whiff of his E.B.s burning on the rock. Panicked, I reeled in an arm- load of slack—just enough to catch him a few feet above a sea of knobs. Instead of splintering his ankles, or worse, Mark walked away with a serious road-rash and a backside full of quartz granules that my mother, a nurse, carefully tweezed out of his buttocks that evening."
Fritz

Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
Aug 28, 2018 - 06:30pm PT
I used to fancy myself a slab-climber back in the late 1970's & early 80's.

When I was in "the zone," those long run-outs seemed so cool.

Occasionaly, I ran out of friction, but I never suffered a slab-fall longer than about 40'.

I remember a couple falls, where I would just start sliding back down the slab. After a short period of backwards skiing, a bump would upend me & the tumble would commence. Happily, the tumble never ended at a ledge.

On a new route on Idaho's South Fork Clearwater River, a long, but easy, unprotected lead took me to a 1' x 3' sloping ledge covered in verdant 2" thick green moss. Since I wasn't sure of how sticky the moss would be, I put in a 1/4" by 1 1/2" bolt before stepping onto the moss.

After clipping the bolt, I destroyed the environment by simply tearing the carpet of moss off the ledge. I stepped up onto the slightly damp ledge & stood there looking up at where my route might go next.

At that moment, all the micro-organisms, whose environment I had just destroyed, gave an upwards push & I skidded off the ledge.

I was very pleased that I had placed the bolt by the ledge.

Here's a photo I took of Avery Tichner on a late 70's new route on Lightning Dome on the S. Fork Clearwater River.
Credit: Fritz
two-shoes

Trad climber
Auberry, CA
Aug 28, 2018 - 09:43pm PT
Slab has always been here. There's no coming back.

I like low angle slab as that is all I seem to be able to climb anymore.
skywalker1

Trad climber
co
Aug 29, 2018 - 12:38am PT
Hmm I've done a few of these things. Talk about being in the "puzzle factory". You lead the slabs and I will lead the O.W. The #2 camalot cracks will be a fist fight! Or a hand fight between us!

Just curious why would you do them in the gym?

Anyway...

Cheers

S...
AntiChrist

Gym climber
Urth
Aug 29, 2018 - 06:36am PT
Slab climbing is neither.
Nick Danger

Ice climber
Arvada, CO
Aug 29, 2018 - 07:03am PT
Slab is such a mind game. When I am in the zone it is just a total hoot and when I am not it just scares the poop right out of me. I recall one effort in the south Platte on Helen's Dome when I was climbing steep slab that entailed using small feldspar phenocrysts about the size of my little fingernail as the only positive holds. The wind was quite gusty that day and I had to wait for the occasional drop in wind speed to do the moves or risk being blown right off the face. A stimulating day, that.

Long live slab
Jeremy Ross

Gym climber
Aug 29, 2018 - 07:22am PT
Slab has always been here. There's no coming back.

I like low angle slab as that is all I seem to be able to climb anymore.

Ha, yeah right!
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 29, 2018 - 09:31am PT
60 footers?

Cragar

climber
MSLA - MT
Aug 29, 2018 - 09:46am PT
I wonder where it is coming back from; maybe a couple of years partying with Buffet down in the Keys?

The Meadows delivers hella in this realm and one of the reasons I dig it so..

Kris, thanks for those pics of CarsonKodas. When I started climbing I lived in Bako and did the KernCanyon/Dome/Needles things. The horror stories of respect I had heard about you guys and your route devo blew my mind and still does. When you add R to your life, an enhancement occurs can that can come from nothing but climbing.
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Aug 29, 2018 - 09:49am PT
Slab never left
August West

Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
Aug 29, 2018 - 10:51am PT
If I recall correctly, one didn't feel safe on many routes until the second bolt was clipped.

Maybe you have a different comfort zone. My experience on the Apron and up in Tuolumne is that one didn't feel safe until they had clipped the final anchor and sometimes not even then because of having to free solo up the unprotected fourth class slabs to top out and get down.

I had a few long skin/rubber burns but nothing serious. Had a partner that tumbled once and had to take a few months off climbing.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2018 - 10:59am PT
Lot of instas are gym slabs...

https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/slabclimbing/


Interesting hashtag to peruse.
Don Paul

Social climber
Washington DC
Aug 29, 2018 - 12:48pm PT
It's the strategic tick marking of phenocrysts with superglue that will bring on the 5.14's lol.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Aug 29, 2018 - 01:06pm PT
Slab climbing is neither.

I've got a few slabs for you that are mos def climbs :-)
mooch

Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
Aug 29, 2018 - 01:29pm PT
Second to Ron Carson, Herb is the best climber at stance drilling I know.

+1 for Herbantor! Even the stuff he put up at Book Rock looks spooky as hell. Stance from what?!?!? He'll be coming back for a quick week long stay in a week. Marco and I are trying to wrangle him up for one last hoo-rah before he heads out to AZ for good.

Herb on the sharp end, putting in something new.

Credit: mooch
ec

climber
ca
Aug 29, 2018 - 07:37pm PT
Thin stances, great slab routes @ Parker Bluff in the Kern.

 ec
bob

climber
Aug 29, 2018 - 09:15pm PT
Mr. Fantasy following 1st Burning Arches pitch.
Mr. Fantasy following 1st Burning Arches pitch.
Credit: bob
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Aug 29, 2018 - 09:59pm PT
Laeger taking a break on the shore of Courtright Reservoir. We were on our way up to Locke Rock.

ec

climber
ca
Aug 29, 2018 - 10:28pm PT
Takin’ in some Herb...
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Aug 30, 2018 - 03:20am PT
Slab climbing? Did just enough to say not just no - but hell no.
hooblie

climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
Aug 30, 2018 - 05:49am PT
i got no problem with the description "solid, all around ..."

who wants to look up and hear "no son, not for you?"

there's more to it, if you plain love moving up
Scole

Trad climber
Zapopan
Aug 30, 2018 - 07:53am PT
I put up a 5.12 b slab route ("Touchy Feelie") in Sinks Canyon, Wyo. It was, at the time, the most feared route in the Sinks, and has had very few repeats. Anyone can pull down on big holds, but you need to sack up when there is nothing to pull on, and your only pro is a shitty 1/4" bolt far below your feet.
AntiChrist

Gym climber
Urth
Aug 30, 2018 - 08:10am PT
I find it laughable when someone takes pride in bolting "the most feared route" somewhere... as if they did something more than masterbate all over the rock while others of similar perversion look on, drooling over the mess that only a "special" few feel compelled to lap up.
Jeremy Ross

Gym climber
Aug 30, 2018 - 08:16am PT
^^^^ maybe I'm wrong, but that comment makes me think you've not bolted a hard slab on lead.
kingtut

climber
Jingus Newroutaineer
Aug 30, 2018 - 08:45am PT
^^^and this AC dude craps his pants on 5.8 slab lol.

@Scole: Lol worthy route dude.
EdwardT

Trad climber
Retired
Aug 30, 2018 - 08:54am PT
AntiChrist

I find it laughable when someone takes pride in bolting "the most feared route" somewhere... as if they did something more than masterbate all over the rock while others of similar perversion look on, drooling over the mess that only a "special" few feel compelled to lap up.

Tell us about your noteworthy FAs.
G_Gnome

Trad climber
Cali
Aug 30, 2018 - 09:10am PT
Many of my best memories of climbing are routes where I was mentally pushed right to the edge. Long runouts teach you something about yourself that you will never learn anywhere else and I think prepare you well for life.
Gary

Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Aug 30, 2018 - 09:15am PT
^^ Yes.
One of my best memories is of a slab route. I kept looking at it, and turning around. That bolt was way off the deck. Then one day, I did it.
kingtut

climber
Jingus Newroutaineer
Aug 30, 2018 - 09:28am PT
Don't get me wrong, I love some spurt wanking with close bolts as much as the next poser...But I couldn't tell you the name of 5.12s I put up that were rap bolted...there's a lesson there.

I can tell you all about some runouts 30 years ago though...point being its memorable and that's what a legit rock climb is: memorable.
Scole

Trad climber
Zapopan
Aug 30, 2018 - 10:43am PT
Anti christ

"I find it laughable when someone takes pride in bolting "the most feared route" somewhere."

My post was meant to be ironic. In a world class sport crag famous for hard overhanging pocket pulling, a 5.12 route is on the easy end of things. It was the nature of the route, not its grade, that kept the crowds off
AntiChrist

Gym climber
Urth
Aug 30, 2018 - 10:57am PT
Nope, never bolted a runout slab. Also never been to spunktoast night... but I hear it is really exciting when it is down to 2 guys, sweating it out, pumped and scared, real head to head competition.

"Anybody can hold onto jugs..." bullsh#t.

Scole, I figured... mine was meant to be agitating. I immediately thought "must be on that sandy sh#t down low." Whatever. Glad you enjoyed it.
Don Paul

Social climber
Washington DC
Aug 30, 2018 - 11:08am PT
Well, of course, if youre totally gripped on a route you are going to remember it better than a clip up route. I took an upside down fall while liebacking the good book, I was looking at my feet and the sky and two cams pulling out. I remember every millisecond of it lol.
Scole

Trad climber
Zapopan
Aug 30, 2018 - 11:37am PT
"must be on that sandy sh#t down low."

Not sandy at all. Hard, clean Dolomite, just low angle and thin.
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
Aug 30, 2018 - 12:58pm PT
I love slab climbing. It’s really fun, after the fact.

mooch

Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
Aug 30, 2018 - 01:09pm PT
Spookiest slab route I've ever had the chance to lead was 'Esto Power' on Courtright's Power Dome. Damn those Laeger! Must've cursed their names a few times. Paper thin friction moves on the first pitch right after the 2nd bolt. Slighty windy the day I did it, so each move became increasingly longer as I waited for the right time for the wind to calm down. I could not erase the looming possibilities. I know Kris, Jan and Guyzo have all done it.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/114446356/esto-power
Gary

Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Aug 30, 2018 - 01:59pm PT
Must've cursed their names a few times.

Ha! Spider knows LeRoy and will appreciate this. LeRoy is about 6'4" or so. I was leading a slab route he'd put up, from the ground up, very old school. It was quite a ways to that first bolt, but it had a pretty nice ledge right below. Sweet. A great stance for drilling. I reached up to clip and...came up short! LeRoy had drilled as high up as he could. Smart...for him! I kept leaping up from this ledge, like an idiot, trying to clip and muttering, "G-dd--n you, LeRoy!" I had to make a too thin move off that beautiful ledge to clip.

Good times. Fun climb.
August West

Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
Aug 30, 2018 - 02:32pm PT
Many of my best memories of climbing are routes where I was mentally pushed right to the edge. Long runouts teach you something about yourself that you will never learn anywhere else and I think prepare you well for life.

Yea, it is a great learning experience right up until you take a 50 foot tumble and break your hip.

Then it is an even greater learning experience.
August West

Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
Aug 30, 2018 - 02:33pm PT
I love slab climbing. It’s really fun, after the fact.

Drinking beer around the camp fire is fun to do.

Having a long, gnarly climbing epic is something that is fun to have done. (And how else do you get great camp fire stories?)
Steven Amter

climber
Washington, DC
Sep 11, 2018 - 06:24pm PT
I have fond memories of many great slab routes back in my old Tuolumne,and even Mount Lemmon AZ days (mid-80s). But emphasis on "back in the old days;" that stuff would scare the crap out of me now. It's now hard to imagine routinely taking long run outs those loose, shitty 1/4" buttonhead bolts.

It just seemed so normal then.

The last time I climbed actual slab was some 5.8 or 5.9 sport climbs two years' ago in City of Rock/Castle Rock. These generously graded climbs had closely placed bomber bolts - all very reassuring and civilized. But it felt a little like cheating...

Mule Skinner

Social climber
Bishop
Sep 11, 2018 - 09:02pm PT
No one better than Hensel. Still at it hard till this day.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Sep 12, 2018 - 12:02am PT
You better be a top notch slab climber if you want to do almost any route left of Tobin's Dihedral on Dome Rock. Some wicked stuff over there.
mooch

Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
Sep 12, 2018 - 11:00am PT
'Carsonoma' or 'Just Barely' comes to mind!
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Sep 12, 2018 - 11:33am PT
5.9 on Glacier Apron is hard enough, I can't comprehend how one would distinguish between 5.10 and 5.11, let alone 5.12 on that type of rock. I guess I just didn't spend enough time on it to find out.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Sep 12, 2018 - 12:35pm PT
Snow Creek Wall BITD - did all the poosy routes with cracks and bolts. Time to head over to
the right for White Slabs Direct. Only 5.9, how bad could it be? We fingered it was sandbagged
but it turned out to be so literally. 5.9+ runout as hell on ancient 1/4” with a liberal dusting of
fine sand. Did I mention we were in Robbins boots? Muy memorable!
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Sep 12, 2018 - 12:52pm PT
I really liked Nothingness and Eternity. That and Saucer Full of Secrets are two of my favorites on Dome Rock. I practiced tying off Chicken Heads with one hand for the former.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Sep 12, 2018 - 01:25pm PT
'Carsonoma' or 'Just Barely' comes to mind!

Chemotherapy, Carsonogenic, and Skid Row are good too. I wanted to do Pipe Dreams (Yaniro slab) and Chemotherapy, but after one look I replaced the bolts first.

I can't recall if it's the second or the third bolt on Skid Row, but it's hard to imagine drilling that one on lead. But reliable witnesses have described it to me. At least he had the courtesy to drill one there. It's only 5.11c, so Ron could have just kept on going and left us a death defying stunt instead of a good, albeit heady, route.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Sacramento, CA
Sep 12, 2018 - 01:39pm PT
I thought we were talking about new slab feats?

Don’t worry, reminiscent periods are okay by me. Don’t want to exacerbate the sun downers.

Everything old becomes new again, right?

I’m no master but I’m not unfamiliar. It’s amazing what it does for your footwork and ability to read the rock.
Jim Clipper

climber
Sep 12, 2018 - 01:48pm PT
Just rousing some rabble. For Jeremy, and more importantly the historians on the thread. At best I'm just a spectator...

[youtube=rRjOBr6tmM8#]

Feck it

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=rRjOBr6tmM8#
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