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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
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Jul 24, 2018 - 10:10pm PT
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Typical Trump supporter making fun of others different from us heteros'...
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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Redwood City
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Jul 24, 2018 - 10:42pm PT
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Don't forget to check the Johnson rods. Sometimes they need to be lubed up and drained.
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Happiegrrrl2
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2018 - 06:41am PT
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Repeat, it is not a lubricant. It is a rust buster. I doubt the belts are rusting but you'd need a multi-meter to know for sure.
Dingus wins the "Best Post of the Thread" Award
So - The front desk person said "they can't hear the chirp, and they can't feel the sluggish acceleration response."
I am guessing this is the hint they don't want to work with me. Two years ago I went in for tire change out and they said "you need brake work."
I was like "???? The brakes seem fine!"
She said "It's down to metal on metal."
"Wouldn't I HEAR SOMETHING? Wold metal on metal make that grinding sound?"
She insisted they would barely pass inspection.
Anyway - this shop is highly recommended, and so I had them do first one set and then the other, and damned if I could feel a bit of difference afterward. Nonetheless, I accepted they knew better than I.
So, the tires got put off, of course, and a month later when I went in to do that, the mechanic said some of the lug nuts were frozen.
A debacle ensued, as my wheels have special nuts with a deep neck; they had to search, and even gave ME the specs on the nuts and asked if I could search for them.
They did find replacements, but peeved me to here and back that now I'm the proud owner of like 20 of them "just in case it happens again."
People told me - "well, sometimes it happens(frozen nuts)." I kind of felt like "not a month after the wheel has been removed and put back on, they don't." I assumed the mechanic over-torqued the lugs when putting the wheel on after brake work(that I wasn't sure I needed).
By this point, were it not for the fact this shop IS well-regarded by many locals, I'd have never gone back. But I thought I was just being my pissy self(I can be pissy; some of you may have noticed, and others have been kind and ignored it).
Then, like 6 months later, I got a slow leak in one of the tires and took it in.
Again - frozen nuts.
This time, I was like "WTF????"
I made a comment - and that, I believe - may be why they "can't hear the chirp," nor "feel the sluggishness."
My comment was something referencing how they nuts were frozen last time a month after they worked on the wheel, and then frozen again?"
I knew as soon as I made that comment that I should have kept it to myself.
$125 later(for an hour labor, 3 replaced posts, and a tire repair that the guy said was fixed), I left and.....the leak did not seem to be fixed.
Of course the tire got ruined because I was driving on it low in between refills. I just had one pair of tires, including that one, replaced - and NOT at this shop. They had no problem getting the nuts off.
Last fall, when the steering wheel was giving me a sticking return once or twice, I went in and they "couldn't replicate it."
I accepted that, as it had only done it twice.
It has done it about half a dozen times since then - just a little catch, and then release.
I would even accept that they didn't get the sluggish response this morning. The damned thing has been running fine in that regard since I made the appointment(although I HAVE felt the sluggish, but it's because I know my rig, and can understand why someone doing a quick test drive might not detect it.)
But the chirping silence, I don't accept.
She said "You'll have to wait until it gets worse." I jaw-dropped, and said "It's going to break down!"
I paid for my Inspection, which I also was having them do, and felt not so great that my bill was only $10..... I expected to not be able to fix both problems with the funds I had in the bank. But....I thought "Maybe its not as bad as I think. They MUST know what they're doing!"
I crank the key, and it purrs. No chirp, no squeak, and a smooth response to the gas.
"Dang you, Penny!" I think. "Is this like when a doggy doesn't want to go to the groomers?"
Turn out of the parking out and head down the road - and THE CHIRP IS SO OBVIOUS I WOULD SAY THEY RATCHETED IT UP!!!!!
Are you all getting your money's worth out of this thread or not!?
Anyway, some of my coworkers suggested another mechanic nearby, and I am going to call and make an appointment, hopefully for next Monday.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jul 25, 2018 - 07:22am PT
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Are you all getting your money's worth out of this thread or not!?
BIG TIME! Looking forward to seeing it on Netflix! 🤪
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jul 25, 2018 - 07:26am PT
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If they can’t get something as trivial as a lug nut right, you’re high to go back in there expecting anything more complicated. However also know you live in the NE, road chemicals decimate everything under there.
Don’t be such a chick either, they’ll walk all over you. If someone says your brake pads are metal on metal, ask to go see this bare metal death trap for yourself. It isn’t rocket science to see your pad and have the guy bring over a new one for comparison and make an informed decision. Same for every other part someone says needs to be replaced - make them prove it to you, right in front of you. If it’s so clear to them, and it should be, they should be able to easily show you and be proud of their ability to do so. If not, pack up and leave.
Did you check your transmission fluid?
Belts tend to warm up and get less noisy. Bearings warm up and get more noisy. Typically. My bet is therefore alternator bearings - so a new alternator.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Jul 25, 2018 - 08:04am PT
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and a new alternator is super easy to install. any shop charging you more than an hour labor for it is probably ripping you off.
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Winemaker
Sport climber
Yakima, WA
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Jul 25, 2018 - 08:21am PT
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My daughter lives and works in Salt Lake City. She has one of my cars, a Toyota van. My ex-wife visited her a couple of years ago and phoned me to ask if there was anything that needed to be done to the van. I'd keep it tip top so there really wasn't, but at 150k miles I suggested the only thing not done was replace the transmission fluid. She took it to one of the quickie places; they advised her that the rear brake cylinders were leaking and everything in the rear needed replacing. They also told her the brake fluid was 'old'. Quoted her something on the order of $500 for the job. She phoned and told me what they'd said; thing is I had done the front brakes about three months before, looked at the rears which were fine except needed adjusting, there were no leaks, and I bled the entire system, so totally new fluid. I told her to take it to Les Schwab, where I get all my tires and suspension adjustments, and they reported everything was good to go, no leaks, nothing.
Those lying sack of sh*t quickie people thought they had an easy one on the hook, probably because she was a lone woman. I seriously doubt they would have even done anything. They certainly never pulled the rear wheels to look at brakes while changing AT fluid. Beware. Use people you can trust. I highly recommend Les Schwab; free rotations, flat fixes, balancing, and honest service.
And Dingus, while WD-40 may be 'water dry' and does work well on distributors (few of which exist any more) it also makes things slide around and that is the definition of a lubricant. I certainly use it to loosen stuff up. It also removes grease from your hands.
A final note on 'rusted' lug nuts. Every time I take a wheel off I lightly grease the stud threads as well as the area on the wheel where the nut seats. You can only get accurate torque, which is really a measure of bolt stretch, on a lubricated thread, and there are never any problems with the nut 'freezing'.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jul 25, 2018 - 08:41am PT
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Torque specs are generally for a clean, dry and newly cut set of threads. All other conditions require ... experience.
So you recently had your transmission fluid replaced? That’s nice. FWIW, never let anyone change your tranny fluid with a flushing machine - ever. If you need it, you’re safer not doing anything at all, even if your fluid is ancient. You have to drain from below and refill from above and you have to do a good clean job of it. The odds of getting the wrong fluid pumped through in the wrong direction all while introducing contamination from the last vehicle into your system is very high. So many stories.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jul 25, 2018 - 08:55am PT
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I thought the WD formula was a secret? Did you hack ‘em, DMT?
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Winemaker
Sport climber
Yakima, WA
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Jul 25, 2018 - 09:03am PT
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And since when would a lubricant wash the grease from your hands? It doesn't 'wash' the grease from your hands, it acts as a solvent and allows you to wipe it off. Not recommended, by the way, just a point of interest. Acetone would do the same thing, but then you're dealing with carcinogens. And Dingus, water is a lubricant, as is WD-40.
JLP, bolt torques are for lightly lubricated threads, but unfortunately wheel studs tend to be pretty rusty, as are the lug nuts. Torque is a measure of twisting force applied to the nut or bolt in order to stretch it, but below it's elastic limit, so it acts like a spring. Some torque specs are actually a measure of how much the bolt has stretched, not the rotational force applied. The stretching force provides the clamping force for the fastener. If the tread is dirty or rusted a lot of the torque force can be taken up just turning the nut; it's possible, on a rusted thread, to torque a nut to the correct torque but use all that torque just rotating it, leaving no actual clamping force. A wire brush and a light coating of grease is the answer. See below.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jul 25, 2018 - 09:33am PT
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So now you guys have wandered into the equivalent of how to mark the middle of your rope. WD40 contains lube, but don't try to use it as lube - and boltdepot.com is wrong. If the thread is lube'd, it's just residue from the thread cutting process. Most of those bolts on the chart are heat treated, so dry as fuk. On a factory floor, there will typically be no additional lube added and the torque specs reflect that.
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Winemaker
Sport climber
Yakima, WA
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Jul 25, 2018 - 09:56am PT
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It's complicated. From the Engineers Toolbox:
The maximum tightening torque for a slightly lubricated 1" Grade 5 coarse bolt is 483 lb ft. Dry bolt torque is approximately 30% higher - or 628 lb ft.
Tdry = (483 lb ft) (1 + (30%) / (100%))
= 628 lb ft
If the bolt is lubricated with SAE 30 oil - the torque compared to a dry bolt is reduced with approximately 40%.
TSAE30 = (628 lb ft) (1 - (40%) / (100%))
= 377 lb ft
Note that if torque specified for a dry or slightly oiled bolt torque is applied to a lubricated bolt - the bolt may overload and break.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jul 25, 2018 - 10:09am PT
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It's complicated So is marking the middle of your rope. All kinds of bs on the net for how to do both. Bust a few bolts or strip out a $$$ casing while following these so called specs to a T, you learn quick.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jul 25, 2018 - 10:17am PT
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I used to be a credible backyard mechanic, at least in my myopic eyes. Haven’t owned a
vehicle in a long time I would try to do anything on other than the basics. At about 100K I thought I would change the plugs on my 2002 F150 but quickly realized I couldn’t even get to the back two plugs without the help of two well trained lemurs! WTF?
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Winemaker
Sport climber
Yakima, WA
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Jul 25, 2018 - 10:28am PT
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Yeah, didn't even try it on my daughter's Sienna, just paid my money; much dis-assembly required. Fortunately plug change intervals are now 100,000 mile; amazing how vehicles have changed. It wasn't too bad on my V-6 Rav4. The plugs still looked very good after all those miles; mixture color looked perfect. Use anti-sieze on the plug threads but watch out for that changed torque spec!!!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jul 25, 2018 - 10:34am PT
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My new Volvo doesn’t even have a dipstick! Does that mean I’m no longer a dipsh!t?
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jul 25, 2018 - 10:47am PT
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It’s indeed truly amazing what they came up with after being required to warranty the emissions for 60-100k miles. The designers knew if something failed sooner, a bunch of fuk’n savages would be under the hood destroying everything in no time flat, eventually passing all cost back to the oem.
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Jul 25, 2018 - 10:54am PT
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I need someone to detail my car.. any takers?
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Jul 25, 2018 - 11:02am PT
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wd-40 is made of fish oil! So it is a lube but it dissolves realitivly fast.
my uncle used to spray it on his fishing lures and would always catch the lunkers🦈
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Winemaker
Sport climber
Yakima, WA
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Jul 25, 2018 - 01:00pm PT
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Nobody said it was a GOOD lubricant, just that it WAS a lubricant. Water is a great lubricant on a smooth concrete floor and will quickly put you on your ass, but I wouldn't recommend it for high speed press lubrication.
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