MidSummer Nights Van Problems Diagnosis

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Happiegrrrl2

Trad climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 23, 2018 - 10:12am PT
*Disclaimer Below


So, the van's making some creaks and groans and this time I think it's serious. There are two different things I'm worried about, and since some here seem to enjoy the OnTheRoad threads, I am thinking what the heck, let's have a summer version....So, what to YOU think is going on.

1990 Ford Van, E-150 Econoline with 5.8L engine.

Sound #1 - When I press the gas pedal with a lighter touch, as in slow acceleration, or to give a nudge to increase speed in town, it kind of shudders. I know, that's not a sound, but more of a feeling, so I guess I could say it kind of sounds like what we used to call "dieseling" when the car would be turned off, and the engine would struggle on before quitting.

Looked it up online, and it could be a symptom of so many things I didn't know where to start.

This has been going on a while, but in the last few days, it has been worse. Once, going uphill toward the Hairpin Turn on 44/55, and this morning, pulling on to 44/55 after stopping at the end of Clove Rd. I actually thought I was running out of gas, but that wasn't it. Went to fill up and it took 12 gallons on a 22 gallon tank.

But for certain, it isn't going away.

Sound #2 - Engine Chirping. At least, I THINK it's the engine.

I first noticed what I now think was the early signs of this problem a couple months ago. I'd hear a sort of sound squeaking sound that seemed like the driver's side door might need oiling. But of course, when I "listened," the sound didn't seem to be coming from the door area.

It was there, on and off, but not enough to say "Attention! This is an early signal of impending doom."

But, about a week ago, when I started it up after having driven for a few miles, and it sounded like the Serpentine Belt was slipping. It kept up for about a mile, and then stopped.

Then didn't happen, and then did again, for a very sort time.

Then. I started to recognize the squeaky not-the-door sound seemed like it could be part of THAT sound.

Since then, I've been hearing it on and off, mostly on, as a chirp that sometimes changes with the acceleration(going faster when RMS's up), and sometimes not. Sometimes....it kind of sound like sleighbells jingling...

Looked it up online, and it could be many things, the belt, a bearing, U joint, or several other possibilities.


So, what the heck do you think these sounds could BE?????








*I have a shop appointment Wednesday.



zip

Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
Jul 23, 2018 - 10:44am PT
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HPJM6ww5hNU
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Jul 23, 2018 - 11:28am PT
First - don't do anything until you create at least another 10 pages of drama.

Sound 1 - check your transmission fluid. Next up are the basics - cap, rotor, plugs, wires, air filter, PVC valve. It's rarely something more complicated in a vehicle like yours.

Sound 2 - Belts shiny and glazed? If so, buy a can of belt dressing spray and apply. If sound disappears, get new belts.
anita514

Gym climber
Great White North
Jul 23, 2018 - 11:31am PT
Oh FFS
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Jul 23, 2018 - 11:39am PT
once the basics above are done. Fuel filter is worth looking at since it may be an easy fix.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jul 23, 2018 - 11:49am PT
Euthenasia is indicated. For the van, that is.
F

climber
away from the ground
Jul 23, 2018 - 12:01pm PT
Sounds like systematic patriarchal oppression to me.
Nothing that couldn’t be fixed by an independent, strong, confident woman like yourself.
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone
Jul 23, 2018 - 12:17pm PT
I love your courage Happie. I do love travels with Happie and wish I had some advice...but alas I’m not much of a mechanic. However, I’m sure this thread is going to be entertaining, and that there will be some wonderful kernels of knowledge.

A mid summer read. I need one!

Susan
climbski2

Mountain climber
The Ocean
Jul 23, 2018 - 12:54pm PT
I'm pretty sure the problem is a 28 year old van.

you are getting good advice above.

My main concern as you describe it is the transmission. (shudder and getting worse and uphill).. but it might be something else..very hard to say.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jul 23, 2018 - 01:16pm PT
Let’s put it in simple economic terms: you’ve entered into a classic bond inverted yield curve that traditionally presages a recession, or worse.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Jul 23, 2018 - 01:28pm PT
Have someone eyeball the motor mounts.
fear

Ice climber
hartford, ct
Jul 23, 2018 - 01:28pm PT
1) Fuel Delivery. Filter, pump, rotten 30 year old tank (is tank metal?).. Is it a carb or EFI? Carb would rec teardown and rebuild. Cheap. EFI gets expensive, possible clogged/dying injector(s).

2) Turn the radio up. Possible slipping belt or failing idler pulley/component connected to the serpentine belt. Replace belt anyway. Still squealing on startup replace idler pulley(s).

You own an antique, not reliable transportation. As the proud owner of vintage machines, you have to learn how to fix them.... or pay dearly for others to do so.
Happiegrrrl2

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2018 - 02:36pm PT
I have to wonder why *some* people get so bent from these threads. When I have been seriously asking for help, I came right out and asked. The first post on this one makes it pretty clear it's just a "keeping in touch/for fun" thread. Yes - the van is old. Yes, I am trying to save up for a new rig. No, I don't care that you cannot stomach the fact that I keep pulling the rabbit out of the hat when your deepest desire is to see me crash and burn.

Not really seeking advise(though I do agree that there has been some good advise, and I do appreciate it). I've already done what research and checking of fluids/belts and such that I am able to, and as I WROTE - it's going to the shop on Wednesday. I made the thread for a little fun for those who have a sense of humor.

But I do have the feeling whatever these two issues are is not going to be a cheap fix. Which sucks, because I am pretty much going to have to fix it unless it's more than a grand(and the van can limp along for another few months while I continue to save and look for a replacement).


edit: It's fuel injection. I am thinking it may be fuel filter, or pump. Don't think it is transmission, due to that it goes through the gears very smoothly. The transmission was serviced a while back as well, though after the miles put on since, that is probably no longer a sure thing.

My guess is that the tension pulley is getting ready to blow(squeaky noise) and for the other sound, thinking fuel filter/pump.

We'll see.....
skywalker1

Trad climber
co
Jul 23, 2018 - 04:03pm PT
Take a video and post it?

S...
Winemaker

Sport climber
Yakima, WA
Jul 23, 2018 - 04:13pm PT
Chirping noise probably = belts. Open the hood, run the engine, and listen for the noise. You should be able to pin it down a bit. If it seems like it's coming from the belt area try a small squirt of WD-40 on the running belt(s), one belt at a time. If the noise goes away that's where the problem is; change or re-tension the belts. I would suspect changing is the better option, as it sounds like this stuff doesn't get done often. As mentioned above, if it's not the belts it might be the alternator or the power steering pump; you can remove a belt and run the engine to see if that component is the noise maker. The other stuff like plugs, wires, etc. is a little more complex. Good luck. Great chalk bag by the way.
Gary

Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Jul 23, 2018 - 04:36pm PT
So where does the multimeter figure into all this?
Juan Maderita

Trad climber
"OBcean" San Diego, CA
Jul 23, 2018 - 04:47pm PT
Re: problem #2
As previously mentioned, squirt a little WD40 onto the moving belt, or spray belt dressing. If the noise goes away momentarily, then the belt is either too loose or glazed.
If the noise remains, you can check each of the bearings (alternator, idler pulley, AC, etc.) with a mechanics stethoscope. Or use a very long screwdriver (plastic end to your ear, please!). The sound transmits easily and will pinpoint the culprit. A good trick to know when keeping old vehicles running.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-52500-Mechanics-Stethoscope/dp/B0002SQYSM
Even cheaper on eBay or Harbor Freight.
Winemaker

Sport climber
Yakima, WA
Jul 23, 2018 - 06:01pm PT
Or use a very long screwdriver
I forgot about that Juan!!! Almost anything works; especially good is a solid steel rod sort of thing with a larger end for the ear. It can be long, so no getting your hair caught in something turning. It's sort of like putting your ear to a railroad track to detect an oncoming train, except you don't get your head squished.
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Jul 23, 2018 - 06:14pm PT
People who know little always blame the fuel filter / pump, but it’s almost never. Billions sold, only a few fixed anything. If the van runs at all - ie it at least starts - and has power to accelerate at highway speeds - at all, even with whatever the actual problem is manifesting itself - you can pretty much rule out fuel delivery.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Jul 23, 2018 - 06:25pm PT
hey there say, happiegrrl... hope it all works out good...

>:D<

say, i got an old car 2002? i think... but not as old as your van-- i am thankful for an extended family member's help--or, i'd don't know what i'd do in SOME of the cases... *hee hee, i'd make a 'help thread' like you...

(i've had my share of computer-help threads and tech help stuff-- and, these guys have been just the BEST! great help, and delivered as a
job-well-done, by all of them) ...

so far, as to all that... thankfully, so good... thank god...
well, yes, and thank the guys for doing it all...

and-- we've all seen the medical 'any one been through this stuff before'
type stuff... you REALLY can solve a lot, by team work, here...
and, 'new info' on the scene... or:
great 'trail leads' as to 'where to go next' ...





say, susan:

as to your quote:
this was fun to see! :
Jul 23, 2018 - 12:17pm PT
I love your courage Happie. I do love travels with Happie and wish I had some advice...but alas I’m not much of a mechanic. However, I’m sure this thread is going to be entertaining, and that there will be some wonderful kernels of knowledge.

A mid summer read. I need one!

Susan


lastly... thank you supertopo folks-- you all are great!
when the 'chips are down' we don't have to feel like we are 'buried' by them...

we got folks here, that help 'chisel them off' ... :)
so we can breath... and, most importantly:

go onward...

:)


awwww, with a little help from our friends, and loved ones...
Pennsylenvy

Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
Jul 23, 2018 - 07:01pm PT
Happie,

good on ya, Not afraid of the patriarchal internet keyboard tuff 'guys'! Living life outside of the norm. We all don't get dealt the same cards in the game, and it's the way you play them. Happie could have settled for some NYC cubicle like tons of folks whom have enough money to buy the brand new sprinter. Instead, she lives according to her inner voice. Probably a lot more creative than her accusers.
Juan Maderita

Trad climber
"OBcean" San Diego, CA
Jul 23, 2018 - 07:12pm PT
Happie,
Btw, thanks for making it easier for us by including info,
"1990 Ford Van, E-150 Econoline with 5.8L engine." That helps minimize the confusion and misguided responses. You might add "EFI" (electronic fuel injection) to the specs, as some folks assume you have a carburetor.
jonnyrig

climber
Jul 23, 2018 - 07:15pm PT

You should offer a prize to whoever guesses the issue correctly. Me? I'm voting spark plugs/wires and a loose belt/failing pulley.
Winemaker

Sport climber
Yakima, WA
Jul 23, 2018 - 07:58pm PT
Hey jonnyrig, that picture of the dude with the truck supported by the beams..... Brought back a memory; I was working at BP Advanced Materials in Kent, came in one Monday and learned one of the production people had died over the weekend. He was removing a transmission from underneath a van using brute strength. When it came free he couldn't support it so is ended up on his chest. He couldn't breathe and died. Left three kids and a wife.
jonnyrig

climber
Jul 23, 2018 - 08:09pm PT
I've done a fair number of transmissions that way. It sucks. You try to use your legs more than your arms for that very reason. Inevitably, cuts and bruises at least. I've also done a fair number on floor jacks... you have to balance those by hand; but you stay the f*#k out of the way in case you lose it and they drop. Not the best way to do things; but in the driveway when you're broke you make it work. Some people just lose the odds game... like climbers.

neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Jul 23, 2018 - 09:39pm PT
hey there say, johnnyrig... wow, would be neat if a great paint job,
would make all 'vans go' ... ;)

awww... speaking of transmissions, johnnyrig--
you reminded me of a good time in my life:
'nano' was the best 'fixer' of 'em, in south texas...

*he near ruined his elbows, from it all, and had
surgery on both of them...

my ex and his dad (nano) (nico) could fix every car, that came
their way, and
they were the best, :)


don't know about vans, though, but he kept his running, :)
even though it kind of embarressed by kids, as they got older
and friends, 'actually' SAW them get out of it... ;)


love them 'home town mechanics' that we had, back then,
in south texas...
briham89

Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
Jul 23, 2018 - 10:07pm PT
Regarding the chirping sound #2, does your van have AC (air conditioning)? Try running with the AC off and see if the chirp goes away. Sometimes when the AC belt is worn and or loose it can chirp. And it happens intermittently because your AC compressor clutch isn't always engaged, but when it does the chirp happens. So try to turn your AC off and see if it still makes the noise.
jonnyrig

climber
Jul 23, 2018 - 11:43pm PT
There's a lot of people out there without two bucks to rub together, and just as many more that couldn't change a tire in a Snapon warehouse even with a smartphone and the google.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jul 24, 2018 - 12:21am PT
Johnnnnny! I flat spotted all four at 80 the other day when the passing lane disappeared and the mean semi driver wouldn’t back off. Which tire should I change first? 🤡
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Jul 24, 2018 - 12:31am PT
fwiw, my experience after owning a 90 aerostar is that almost everything emanates and goes back to the vacuum octopus. and it was very easy to diagnose. just make sure all the ports are covered and there is no scuking noise or other. The chirping does sound like the belt or a pulley but can also be the whistling noise from a vacuum port (maybe)













JLP

Social climber
The internet
Jul 24, 2018 - 05:46am PT
The state of California at some point decided these pos american cars - so easy to fix, so easy to fail - were polluting the air. The evolution of CARB and OBD has made things infinitely more reliable and also more difficult and expensive to diagnose and repair when they do finally fail. You need a lot more skill and specialized tools now. Happie’s van and the shade tree mechanic are the end of an era. Cars used to be “old” at like 60k miles. If you owned one over 100k you were probably pretty handy and worked on it at least a few times per year, if not monthly - maybe even weekly - cheap pile of parts from the parts store, simple tools, a few hours - not much of that any more.
jonnyrig

climber
Jul 24, 2018 - 11:39am PT
Reilly... try the loose nut behind the wheel first. hahaha

As for ease of diagnosis, I'll take OBDII over the late 80's/early 90's thank you very much. Many of those systems were piles of sh#t. With OBDII at least you get a relatively standardized system accessible to any scan tool that meets the protocol. After that comes basic diagnosis with... you guessed it... a multi-meter. And/or mechanical failures. The only thing that's really more complicated about it is that there's more electronics and electrical systems (which a lot of people don't understand) and some type of primary data-link communication system (CAN, J1939, etc) that's even worse for people to understand than electrical troubleshooting.

Either way, do-it-yourselfers tend to generate more revenue for me than those that start out at a reputable shop first.
Happiegrrrl2

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2018 - 02:31pm PT
I think I pinned down the chirp at the front of the alternator. Not inside it, and not the belt, but the wheel-like thing the belt runs around. Will find out tomorrow.

The serpentine belt has a sheen on the inside, but looks to be in good shape from my inexperienced eye. Doesn't seem dry, the texture pattern is crisp and even.

For the suggestion to run without AC - I never run the AC. Someone told me that using the heater at least once a month(on cold in summer) will maintain the system in the way needed instead of running AC), but in any case, that's that.

The other thing is probably going to be more evasive to diagnose. Of course it didn't have any inkling of the symptom when I started it up just now.

And yes - Cosmic's "nut behind the wheel" was funny, although my initial reaction wasn't finding the humor of it. I am going to assume he was just cracking a joke, and not being mean. But if HE ever posts about a car issue, he's probably going to get "nut behind the wheel" suggestions like I get the multimeter ones.
Winemaker

Sport climber
Yakima, WA
Jul 24, 2018 - 05:02pm PT
but the wheel-like thing the belt runs around
That's the pulley. If the sound is coming from it and not inside the alternator it's the belt. Try the WD-40 or belt dressing trick while it's running and making the noise; just a little squirt on the pulley where the belt touches. If it stops replace your belt.
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Jul 24, 2018 - 05:24pm PT
Don’t wd-40 your belts. Even water is better if you’re just testing for a change in the noise. You can buy a belt dressing spray as well. If that doesn’t pan out, it’s probably your alternator bearings. Most mechanics will say alternator bearings either way and sell you the belt too. Have fun with that.

OBD-II was okay up until mid 2000’s, even then it varied a lot by model and manufactuer. Many modern systems that can fail are not tied to OBD and require specialized and usually very expensive scan tools to access. A modern car will have pretty much everything on the CAN bus - door locks, lights, hvac - all non accessable with a standard OBD scanner - all proprietary messaging so even top dollar aftermaket scanners like snap-on will have limited coverage. So you end up on Ali Baba looking for some Chinese hack of the factroy-dealer tool...
Crazy Bat

Sport climber
Birmingham, AL & Seweanee, TN
Jul 24, 2018 - 08:18pm PT
That whole hesitation thing made me think of a 70s era car that was given to me. It had a hesitationand would periodically buck and snort and go dead it also drank transmission fluid. I was told the transmission was bad. I took it in for an oil change. I asked a fuel filter change. The guy cam back and told me the sending unit was bad. What does that do I asked. I still don't know, but it caused the transmission fluid to be sucked out of the transmission and caused the hesitation too, something to do with vacuums hoses too. I drove a sports car out of that oil change. The bucking and snorting was from a clogged fuel filter and was a chronic problem until the gas tank was removed and cleaned.

Short version check vacuums hoses.

I enjoy your road questions. I too have taken off across country with a questionable vehicle. I don't have set times to be where I am going and having work done on the road has led to some of my best adventures. So much so I save minor stuff for trips. I am on a grip now and look forward t9 taking the mounting brackets off that used to hold a bug guard. LOL
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Jul 24, 2018 - 09:03pm PT
That’s a transmission modulator valve - senses load through vacuum and helps determine shift point. It has a diaphram that can leak, which can provide a path for trans fluid to get into combustion chamber and smoke like crazy, it’s also a huge vacuum leak. Entire drivelines have been replaced, cars junked out, over that $20 valve. Ancient 70’s technology. Your fuel filter was probably fine.
Moof

Big Wall climber
Orygun
Jul 24, 2018 - 09:26pm PT
On our 04 Focus I tried the MAF, cleaned and then replaced. Still had hesitation issues between 1200-2000 RPM when warmed up. Replaced the ingnition coils (your van probably has something rather different), and that cleared it up. Spent $140 total on parts and a can of cleqning spray.

It also had a nasty growl, that cost about $35 for new motor mounts, a couple hundred for a rattle wrench, sockets, jack stands, etc. Also cost about a day and a half of labor on my part. Runs like butta’ now.

YMMV.

Personal note: Happygirl is good people, ease up on her. She is dirt bagging far better than most of you combined. If I was still on the road I’d hang out with her again any time.
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
Jul 24, 2018 - 09:37pm PT
I remember those modulating valves on 70's auto transmissions...Can't remember if it was chevy's or fords but there was an aluminum line from the block and a short vacumn hose to the modulating valve which was similar to a choke pull off valve on a carburator....as i recall the tranny was slow to shift if the valve diaphgram was punctured or the vacumn hose was cracked...don't remember this causing tranny fluid to be suctioned into the engine cylinder...?
Winemaker

Sport climber
Yakima, WA
Jul 24, 2018 - 09:39pm PT
Don’t wd-40 your belts. Even water is better
Ain't sayin' spray the belt down; a tiny bit of lubricant will be gone quickly, but okay. Anything to see if the belt is the cause of the noise.
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
Jul 24, 2018 - 10:10pm PT
Typical Trump supporter making fun of others different from us heteros'...
Dapper Dan

Trad climber
Redwood City
Jul 24, 2018 - 10:42pm PT
Don't forget to check the Johnson rods. Sometimes they need to be lubed up and drained.
Happiegrrrl2

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2018 - 06:41am PT
Repeat, it is not a lubricant. It is a rust buster. I doubt the belts are rusting but you'd need a multi-meter to know for sure.

Dingus wins the "Best Post of the Thread" Award


So - The front desk person said "they can't hear the chirp, and they can't feel the sluggish acceleration response."

I am guessing this is the hint they don't want to work with me. Two years ago I went in for tire change out and they said "you need brake work."

I was like "???? The brakes seem fine!"

She said "It's down to metal on metal."

"Wouldn't I HEAR SOMETHING? Wold metal on metal make that grinding sound?"
She insisted they would barely pass inspection.

Anyway - this shop is highly recommended, and so I had them do first one set and then the other, and damned if I could feel a bit of difference afterward. Nonetheless, I accepted they knew better than I.

So, the tires got put off, of course, and a month later when I went in to do that, the mechanic said some of the lug nuts were frozen.

A debacle ensued, as my wheels have special nuts with a deep neck; they had to search, and even gave ME the specs on the nuts and asked if I could search for them.

They did find replacements, but peeved me to here and back that now I'm the proud owner of like 20 of them "just in case it happens again."

People told me - "well, sometimes it happens(frozen nuts)." I kind of felt like "not a month after the wheel has been removed and put back on, they don't." I assumed the mechanic over-torqued the lugs when putting the wheel on after brake work(that I wasn't sure I needed).

By this point, were it not for the fact this shop IS well-regarded by many locals, I'd have never gone back. But I thought I was just being my pissy self(I can be pissy; some of you may have noticed, and others have been kind and ignored it).

Then, like 6 months later, I got a slow leak in one of the tires and took it in.

Again - frozen nuts.

This time, I was like "WTF????"

I made a comment - and that, I believe - may be why they "can't hear the chirp," nor "feel the sluggishness."

My comment was something referencing how they nuts were frozen last time a month after they worked on the wheel, and then frozen again?"

I knew as soon as I made that comment that I should have kept it to myself.

$125 later(for an hour labor, 3 replaced posts, and a tire repair that the guy said was fixed), I left and.....the leak did not seem to be fixed.

Of course the tire got ruined because I was driving on it low in between refills. I just had one pair of tires, including that one, replaced - and NOT at this shop. They had no problem getting the nuts off.


Last fall, when the steering wheel was giving me a sticking return once or twice, I went in and they "couldn't replicate it."

I accepted that, as it had only done it twice.

It has done it about half a dozen times since then - just a little catch, and then release.

I would even accept that they didn't get the sluggish response this morning. The damned thing has been running fine in that regard since I made the appointment(although I HAVE felt the sluggish, but it's because I know my rig, and can understand why someone doing a quick test drive might not detect it.)

But the chirping silence, I don't accept.

She said "You'll have to wait until it gets worse." I jaw-dropped, and said "It's going to break down!"

I paid for my Inspection, which I also was having them do, and felt not so great that my bill was only $10..... I expected to not be able to fix both problems with the funds I had in the bank. But....I thought "Maybe its not as bad as I think. They MUST know what they're doing!"

I crank the key, and it purrs. No chirp, no squeak, and a smooth response to the gas.

"Dang you, Penny!" I think. "Is this like when a doggy doesn't want to go to the groomers?"

Turn out of the parking out and head down the road - and THE CHIRP IS SO OBVIOUS I WOULD SAY THEY RATCHETED IT UP!!!!!


Are you all getting your money's worth out of this thread or not!?

Anyway, some of my coworkers suggested another mechanic nearby, and I am going to call and make an appointment, hopefully for next Monday.









Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jul 25, 2018 - 07:22am PT
Are you all getting your money's worth out of this thread or not!?

BIG TIME! Looking forward to seeing it on Netflix! 🤪
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Jul 25, 2018 - 07:26am PT
If they can’t get something as trivial as a lug nut right, you’re high to go back in there expecting anything more complicated. However also know you live in the NE, road chemicals decimate everything under there.

Don’t be such a chick either, they’ll walk all over you. If someone says your brake pads are metal on metal, ask to go see this bare metal death trap for yourself. It isn’t rocket science to see your pad and have the guy bring over a new one for comparison and make an informed decision. Same for every other part someone says needs to be replaced - make them prove it to you, right in front of you. If it’s so clear to them, and it should be, they should be able to easily show you and be proud of their ability to do so. If not, pack up and leave.

Did you check your transmission fluid?

Belts tend to warm up and get less noisy. Bearings warm up and get more noisy. Typically. My bet is therefore alternator bearings - so a new alternator.
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Jul 25, 2018 - 08:04am PT
and a new alternator is super easy to install. any shop charging you more than an hour labor for it is probably ripping you off.
Winemaker

Sport climber
Yakima, WA
Jul 25, 2018 - 08:21am PT
My daughter lives and works in Salt Lake City. She has one of my cars, a Toyota van. My ex-wife visited her a couple of years ago and phoned me to ask if there was anything that needed to be done to the van. I'd keep it tip top so there really wasn't, but at 150k miles I suggested the only thing not done was replace the transmission fluid. She took it to one of the quickie places; they advised her that the rear brake cylinders were leaking and everything in the rear needed replacing. They also told her the brake fluid was 'old'. Quoted her something on the order of $500 for the job. She phoned and told me what they'd said; thing is I had done the front brakes about three months before, looked at the rears which were fine except needed adjusting, there were no leaks, and I bled the entire system, so totally new fluid. I told her to take it to Les Schwab, where I get all my tires and suspension adjustments, and they reported everything was good to go, no leaks, nothing.

Those lying sack of sh*t quickie people thought they had an easy one on the hook, probably because she was a lone woman. I seriously doubt they would have even done anything. They certainly never pulled the rear wheels to look at brakes while changing AT fluid. Beware. Use people you can trust. I highly recommend Les Schwab; free rotations, flat fixes, balancing, and honest service.

And Dingus, while WD-40 may be 'water dry' and does work well on distributors (few of which exist any more) it also makes things slide around and that is the definition of a lubricant. I certainly use it to loosen stuff up. It also removes grease from your hands.

A final note on 'rusted' lug nuts. Every time I take a wheel off I lightly grease the stud threads as well as the area on the wheel where the nut seats. You can only get accurate torque, which is really a measure of bolt stretch, on a lubricated thread, and there are never any problems with the nut 'freezing'.
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Jul 25, 2018 - 08:41am PT
Torque specs are generally for a clean, dry and newly cut set of threads. All other conditions require ... experience.

So you recently had your transmission fluid replaced? That’s nice. FWIW, never let anyone change your tranny fluid with a flushing machine - ever. If you need it, you’re safer not doing anything at all, even if your fluid is ancient. You have to drain from below and refill from above and you have to do a good clean job of it. The odds of getting the wrong fluid pumped through in the wrong direction all while introducing contamination from the last vehicle into your system is very high. So many stories.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jul 25, 2018 - 08:55am PT
I thought the WD formula was a secret? Did you hack ‘em, DMT?
Winemaker

Sport climber
Yakima, WA
Jul 25, 2018 - 09:03am PT
And since when would a lubricant wash the grease from your hands?
It doesn't 'wash' the grease from your hands, it acts as a solvent and allows you to wipe it off. Not recommended, by the way, just a point of interest. Acetone would do the same thing, but then you're dealing with carcinogens. And Dingus, water is a lubricant, as is WD-40.

JLP, bolt torques are for lightly lubricated threads, but unfortunately wheel studs tend to be pretty rusty, as are the lug nuts. Torque is a measure of twisting force applied to the nut or bolt in order to stretch it, but below it's elastic limit, so it acts like a spring. Some torque specs are actually a measure of how much the bolt has stretched, not the rotational force applied. The stretching force provides the clamping force for the fastener. If the tread is dirty or rusted a lot of the torque force can be taken up just turning the nut; it's possible, on a rusted thread, to torque a nut to the correct torque but use all that torque just rotating it, leaving no actual clamping force. A wire brush and a light coating of grease is the answer. See below.
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Jul 25, 2018 - 09:33am PT
So now you guys have wandered into the equivalent of how to mark the middle of your rope. WD40 contains lube, but don't try to use it as lube - and boltdepot.com is wrong. If the thread is lube'd, it's just residue from the thread cutting process. Most of those bolts on the chart are heat treated, so dry as fuk. On a factory floor, there will typically be no additional lube added and the torque specs reflect that.
Winemaker

Sport climber
Yakima, WA
Jul 25, 2018 - 09:56am PT
It's complicated. From the Engineers Toolbox:
The maximum tightening torque for a slightly lubricated 1" Grade 5 coarse bolt is 483 lb ft. Dry bolt torque is approximately 30% higher - or 628 lb ft.

Tdry = (483 lb ft) (1 + (30%) / (100%))

= 628 lb ft

If the bolt is lubricated with SAE 30 oil - the torque compared to a dry bolt is reduced with approximately 40%.

TSAE30 = (628 lb ft) (1 - (40%) / (100%))

= 377 lb ft

Note that if torque specified for a dry or slightly oiled bolt torque is applied to a lubricated bolt - the bolt may overload and break.
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Jul 25, 2018 - 10:09am PT
It's complicated
So is marking the middle of your rope. All kinds of bs on the net for how to do both. Bust a few bolts or strip out a $$$ casing while following these so called specs to a T, you learn quick.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jul 25, 2018 - 10:17am PT
I used to be a credible backyard mechanic, at least in my myopic eyes. Haven’t owned a
vehicle in a long time I would try to do anything on other than the basics. At about 100K I thought I would change the plugs on my 2002 F150 but quickly realized I couldn’t even get to the back two plugs without the help of two well trained lemurs! WTF?
Winemaker

Sport climber
Yakima, WA
Jul 25, 2018 - 10:28am PT
Yeah, didn't even try it on my daughter's Sienna, just paid my money; much dis-assembly required. Fortunately plug change intervals are now 100,000 mile; amazing how vehicles have changed. It wasn't too bad on my V-6 Rav4. The plugs still looked very good after all those miles; mixture color looked perfect. Use anti-sieze on the plug threads but watch out for that changed torque spec!!!
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jul 25, 2018 - 10:34am PT
My new Volvo doesn’t even have a dipstick! Does that mean I’m no longer a dipsh!t?
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Jul 25, 2018 - 10:47am PT
It’s indeed truly amazing what they came up with after being required to warranty the emissions for 60-100k miles. The designers knew if something failed sooner, a bunch of fuk’n savages would be under the hood destroying everything in no time flat, eventually passing all cost back to the oem.
anita514

Gym climber
Great White North
Jul 25, 2018 - 10:54am PT
I need someone to detail my car.. any takers?
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
Jul 25, 2018 - 11:02am PT
wd-40 is made of fish oil! So it is a lube but it dissolves realitivly fast.

my uncle used to spray it on his fishing lures and would always catch the lunkers🦈
Winemaker

Sport climber
Yakima, WA
Jul 25, 2018 - 01:00pm PT
Nobody said it was a GOOD lubricant, just that it WAS a lubricant. Water is a great lubricant on a smooth concrete floor and will quickly put you on your ass, but I wouldn't recommend it for high speed press lubrication.
otisdog

Social climber
Sierra Madre, Ca.
Jul 25, 2018 - 06:37pm PT
Wouldn't let a can of WD-40 within 10 feet of my shotguns...
Winemaker

Sport climber
Yakima, WA
Jul 25, 2018 - 06:45pm PT
It burns pretty good when you light the spray.......

Happie, any progress? We all got distracted.
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Jul 25, 2018 - 06:50pm PT
anecdotes be flying! love it!

if someone hasn't yet chimed in with their personal experience -- this thread would BENEFIT greatly from your viewpoint
otisdog

Social climber
Sierra Madre, Ca.
Jul 25, 2018 - 08:05pm PT
it's the iridescence the oil causes that the fishes like....
DanaB

climber
CO
Jul 25, 2018 - 08:12pm PT
Euthenasia is indicated. For the van, that is.


I forgot which coach - it was the NFL - but the team had gone 0-13 and at a post-game conference one of the reporters said, coach, what do you think abut your team's execution?

"I think's that a great idea."
jonnyrig

climber
Jul 25, 2018 - 09:20pm PT
Hey JLP, are you a mechanic, an engineer, or just an art critic?
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
Jul 25, 2018 - 09:53pm PT
xcon...I'm watching whacko unfold every time you post...
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Jul 29, 2018 - 01:24am PT
Car porn bump
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Jul 29, 2018 - 06:49am PT
Mass air flow sensor for the hesitation.
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Jul 29, 2018 - 07:24am PT
MAF was not found in many vehicles in 1990. This thing has a MAP, an O2 and temperature sensor to drive a single throttle body injector - not much more. It doesn't even have OBD-II. I can't imagine many shops even have the old rats nest of computer adapters needed to service this era of vehicle still laying around.

Regardless, if there is no dummy light illuminated on the dash, it's likely not any sensor.
zip

Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
Jul 29, 2018 - 07:40am PT
I thought this was going to a mechanic last Wednesday?
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Jul 29, 2018 - 08:25am PT
The shudder when accelerating could be a clogged transmission filter or worse case beginning of the end of the tranny. as for the chirping, to quote my friend Mike, "I have heard worse", minor belt issue,
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Jul 29, 2018 - 01:32pm PT
Reading this I wonder how I ever get from point A to point B in my 2006 Chevy Express van.

Every Father should teach their daughter about cars. Seriously! Bitd it wasn't the thing to do. Now without my mechanic husband I've had a huge learning curve and still learning.

Two years ago while working up at TPR I had to replace my water pump and radiator. This summer both had to be replaced again. I wish I could hook up a lie detector to any mechanic I take my car to.

Why aren't there more women mechanics?

Think of you often Happiegrrrl2. Hope all is well!



Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jul 29, 2018 - 01:37pm PT
Why aren't there more women mechanics?
.

Same reason that Victoria’s Secret doesn’t hire men. 😺
Happiegrrrl2

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2018 - 02:58pm PT
Victoria's Secret probably has many men on their payroll. Their CEO is a male, for instance.

The van DID have an appointment last week. I posted the outcome of that appointment. ("They can't hear it....") It has another appointment on NEXT Thursday, at another place which is well recommended by several of my coworkers. Just trying to drive as little as possible until then, as it's pretty hard for me NOT to hear the sound which got worse after the "couldn't hear anything" guys looked at it.

I don't mind the WD-40 analysis or any of the other stuff, and even the very few snarks - I don't mind. Tells you something about a person, when they respond in such ways. But, I am certainly capable of snark myself, so - whatever.

edit: Lynne - My father did teach me about cars. I've changed tires, changed oil/filters, and even tuned up my Satellite Sebring back in the day. I took an automotive class in high school.

I know people say I should be doing some of my own work, and it's been my decision that it's not really feasible. I park my car in a parking lot at a nature preserve. No offense, but would YOU(not you, Lynne, you as in a general case) want to be banging your knuckles on metal, swearing when something won't go, and such, with "visitors" watching, and people parking their cars next to you?????

I also have very few tools. Yeah, I know - a set of socket wrenches is a good investment. Except a set of socket wrenches usually isn't the only thing needed. I also have daylight hours available only, with no way to hang an electric lantern to see as light goes.

I also ain't as strong as is helpful, and I get frustrated very easily and then become "unattractive in word and tone," so to speak. So, forgive me for not wanting to replace an alternator that may or may not be the problem.


I like to save money as well as anyone else, but I don't really think it's feasible for me to try to do my own car work, just because I "ought to be able to," in the minds of some.
zip

Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
Jul 29, 2018 - 03:04pm PT
^^^^
ok, guess i missed that.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Jul 29, 2018 - 03:16pm PT
Good post, Happie. I don't really want to fix my car. I just wish I had been taught something about their workings so I could go toe to toe, so to speak, with the mechanics.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jul 29, 2018 - 03:32pm PT
Victoria's Secret probably has many men on their payroll

Really? Not one visible to me! Walk by their stores somewhat regularly and I’ve NEVER
seen a male ‘sales associate’!
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Jul 29, 2018 - 04:04pm PT
You don't have to know anything about cars to call out a mechanic, you just have to have the confidence to ask questions and make sure the pieces fit together. Simply ask to see the problem and have them explain it to you. If they can't, then leave. I know a lot about cars, but I still use a mechanic on occasion. I know and have seen very little compared to the guys doing it every day. I go in and ask questions until I'm 100% on what's going on. Pretty much the same thing as everything else in life - finance, home repair, medical problems, etc. Be curious with every expert you meet, the more you do this, the more obvious the outliers will be.
Happiegrrrl2

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2018 - 09:22am PT
I checked the transmission fluid level and it was somewhat low. I added a bit, and think it may well have helped. Too early to say for sure, but in the short distance I drove, I didn't have the scary chug-a-ugggh response to start of acceleration.

Not wanting to overfill, I was frugal in adding, and also, since it goes in on Thursday, will mention to the mechanic.

The chirp is now a whirring tone that I would be damned surprised to find out it is not the pulley in front of the alternator. Nonetheless, keeping driving to a minimal, as I don't want to have it go while I'm coming around the mountain by the hairpin turn, and don't want to add the cost of a tow.
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Jul 30, 2018 - 09:30am PT
and don't want to add the cost of a tow.

You going to tell us you do not have AAA? Anyone that drives an old car needs tow insurance.
fear

Ice climber
hartford, ct
Jul 30, 2018 - 09:35am PT
If you can get a loooong handled screwdriver from the center of the suspected pulley to your ear it'll help narrow down the noise.

If it is the tensioner pulley, squirt some good 'ol wd-40 right into the pulley bearing. If it lessens or goes away, there's your bad bearing that needs replacement.
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Jul 30, 2018 - 09:37am PT
Sure sounds like bearings and thus a new alternator. No brainer to replace the belt at the same time.

There are 2 zones on a transmission dipstick - cold and hot - and they are a ways away from each other. Always use hot, 30+ mins of driving around should do it. If it's low, the fluid is not just disappearing, it's a warning sign. The question for your mechanic is to tell you where it went. However, if it was recently serviced, they may have botched the refill. If so, never go back there. If it's a slow leak through a bearing seal, it's probably not worth fixing, you'll just be adding fluid for the rest of that rigs days.

EDIT: AAA is a ripoff. A towing adder [aka roadside hazard] on your insurance policy is usually a tiny fraction of the cost. Actually hiring a towtruck once every 10-20 years is probably even cheaper yet.
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Jul 30, 2018 - 10:08am PT
The AAA might not be good value for you, but the basic membership alone is worth the price just to avoid going to the DMV, average wait here without appointment is 3 hours. Not all transactions can be done online. The towing insurance policies provide is not very reliable in the boonies. I get the Premier towing (107 year), up to 200 miles on one tow, 100 miles on the other. Broke down 12 miles north of Kramer Junction on 395 2 years ago, timing belt broke at IC last year.
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Jul 30, 2018 - 10:22am PT
4’ of garden hose helps to isolate noise as well.
Happiegrrrl2

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2018 - 11:50am PT
My EAR has isolated the noise. It really seems that clearly to be coming from either the joint that holds the pulley in front of the alternator on, or directly behind it.

No, I do not have AAA. When I looked into it, it seemed like the cost would be the same as if I used it for an actual tow. Plus, I heard that voice in my head say "If you get tow insurance, you're going to need a two...."
blahblah

Gym climber
Boulder
Jul 30, 2018 - 11:59am PT
Plus, I heard that voice in my head say "If you get tow insurance, you're going to need a two...."

Interesting, I'm not especially superstitious, but the the voice in my head is somewhat the opposite (if I don't get tow insurance, I'll need a tow).
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Jul 30, 2018 - 12:04pm PT
My towing adder is like $3 per 6 months. Long ago I got a 4x4 off road tow out of the bowels of the Moab desert back to downtown Moab, then to Grand Junction in the morning, switch trucks then to the front range as it was technically the closest place capable of making the repair, so I argued. ~1200 total towing bills, all covered, State Farm.
Happiegrrrl2

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2018 - 12:53pm PT
I've never checked with my insurer - just AAA. Will give them a call, but have the feeling your price is not based on a 1990 vintage vehicle...

And the voice in my head just said "If you even MAKE THAT call, you're going to need a tow!" Maybe I had better wait until after my appointment on Thursday to call....
divad

Trad climber
wmass
Jul 30, 2018 - 02:37pm PT
Driving a 28 yr. old vehicle cross-country on a limited budget is a risky venture for sure. An adequate tool box and some mechanical expertise would, in my estimation, be a must. Two years ago, I flew out to Reno to meet my climbing partner for a western road trip. Jack had driven his well-worn Tacoma from Ct. Midway through the adventure we realized that a front brake job was in order. After purchasing the parts we pulled into the Mammoth Lakes Post Office to use a quiet side parking lot to do the job. The wheels seemed to be welded on and even loosening the lug nuts and driving over some bumps didn't do the trick. There was a hardware store across the street and Jack bought a sledge hammer and a 2x4x8. We had one wheel off when the head honcho of the Post Office came out and confronted us. "You're not changing your oil on my brand new million dollar parking lot are you?", sounding as if he paid for it personally instead of us taxpayers. I said "no, just doing a brake job." He was still rather livid so we assured him we would move on before he would call the cops. So off we went and stopped at the first rest area off the highway. We just completed the job when a Harley guy who was taking a break and watched our work, came over and said: "That was impressive, not everyone carries a sledge hammer and a 2x4x8 in their toolbox."
fear

Ice climber
hartford, ct
Jul 30, 2018 - 07:57pm PT
I had a 1978 dodge pickup with a 383 hemi in it as a kid. Aside from the 4 gallons per mile epa rating (it was never that good) it had only one significant flaw. The starter motor was nestled right up against the exhaust manifolds and would cook itself to death every few months despite numerous attempts at Nasa level heat shielding.

I eventually had it down to a 15 minute job i could do in the dark, snow, rain, etc... didnt matter. Also replaced the heads in that thing in under two hours with a fellow engineering buff.

You've got to learn to fix old vehicles yourself... it's really not that hard, esp with that vintage van. You'll save a ton of $$ over paying someone else and the quality of work is almost always way better since you're not on the clock. Youtube is a godsend these days...
Winemaker

Sport climber
Yakima, WA
Jul 30, 2018 - 07:59pm PT
hey there say, st00pid Americans... the voice in my head says, it's all the Jews' fault.

What's that about? Weird.

Happie, good luck with the mechanic, hope things are resolved. Usually towing coverage with insurance is a pretty minor add-on. Mine last time was $7.60 for 6 months, 200 miles towing. I doubt it's vehicle age related.
Happiegrrrl2

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2018 - 10:19am PT
So I have an update.

1)Replacing the Serpentine Belt
2) Tune Up

I had neglected to tell him about "the oil leak," and was reminded when he said the air filter was filthy. The leak causes oil to get into the air filter. He said something about some other filter, which on this engine, sometimes gets clogged, and causes oil to come out through the path of least resistance.

The belt will get fixed today, but I have to reschedule for the tune up as parts not on hand until tomorrow, and then I have work days so can't do it.



tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Aug 2, 2018 - 10:44am PT
Sweet! the old girl just needs a bit of Love:)
AAA is totally worth it. the towing insurance from your car insurance is next to useless. you must pay for the tow up front and then remember to submit the claim with all the hassel that entails. AAA rocks, you can use it for just about anything. does not even need to be your own vehicle. I have the platinum plan which allows tows up to 200 miles.. . 2016 was a rough year for the Astro had at least 4 tows which pays for at least 5 years of Platnum AAA. you can even use it to get your new old van from the place you buy it to home or the mechanic without the usual fake plate running the gauntlet routine. Buy a new wreck, call AAA and have them take it home for you. Good stuff!
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Aug 2, 2018 - 10:54am PT
If you have oil getting to your air filter, it basically means pressure inside your engine block is high and it's blowing oil and gasses backwards through the PCV system faster than the PCV valve can remove it. The PCV filter may be saturated with oil, the engine air filter too.

Pretty much all older cars will see this, it's just a matter of degree. As the piston rings wear, more gets past them and increases pressure inside the crank case. Seeing how much oil and soot is inside the air cleaner assembly in these older beasts is a good indicator of how the engine is aging.

Make sure they replace the PCV valve and possibly the hose leading to it, the PCV filter as well.

Eventually the PCV system gets overwhelmed and there is nothing you can do except replace the PCV filter and valve much more frequently. At some point you're burning too much oil, it's visible out the tail pipe, the catalytic converter is rendered useless, your O2 sensor no longer regulates the fuel injector right, you fail emissions, etc. It's a slow downhill slide.

Thus - keep an eye on that air cleaner.
Happiegrrrl2

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2018 - 11:52am PT
Part 1 complete, and next Monday is the tune up.

It already sounds SO much better.

jaredg

climber
california
Aug 6, 2018 - 06:42pm PT
If the shudder continues after the tune up you may consider a transmission fluid additive. I recently had some transmission shudder and tried lube gard, less than 10 bucks. Might be some scam long term but it has helped so far.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Aug 6, 2018 - 07:12pm PT
Cool. Glad the doctors visit helped :) I am getting soo close. should turn 200k tomorrow or wed.....
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
Aug 6, 2018 - 09:18pm PT
If you want to stop the blow-by , use STP instead of regular motor oil at the next oil change...it increased my compression and got rid of the piston slap , main bearing noise and noisy tappets...
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Aug 6, 2018 - 09:50pm PT
I can live with blow-by but I'm a smoker so my opinion doesn't count. Older cars tend to do that and you can spend a bunch to stop it or just drive it and don't care and still get a lot of messy oily miles and oil checks until you get another old beater.

Don't get me wrong, I love old beaters and they were kind of a hobby at one point but it just becomes increasingly difficult and costly to do this without some kind of mechanical expertise. Good luck and happy trails.
Winemaker

Sport climber
Yakima, WA
Aug 13, 2018 - 04:29pm PT
So Happie, are you good to go?
.... use STP instead of regular motor oil ....
You're nuts. Maybe use a single grade, 30W or something if the weather's not too cold, but STP? I knew a guy who claimed he always ran the engine in his 'Vette for five minutes after draining the oil during a change; he said it cleaned the bearings. I bet he was right.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Aug 13, 2018 - 05:40pm PT
Oh, yeah, bet those bearings fairly sparkled! 🤪🙄😬
WBraun

climber
Aug 13, 2018 - 05:45pm PT
I knew a guy who claimed he always ran the engine in his 'Vette for five minutes after draining the oil during a change; he said it cleaned the bearings.


LOL ......
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Aug 13, 2018 - 07:17pm PT
I worked in a parts store for awhile as a kid. We sold a lot of Sea Foam. Sea Foam for everything, for every reason. Guys would walk out of there with cases of that sh!t - pour it in every orifice - carbs, power steering, engine, gas tank, tranny - everything. Never tried the stuff myself.
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
Aug 13, 2018 - 07:30pm PT
Winemaker...just kidding...stp was like molasses in january and nearly impossible to remove from the block and heads even after a soak in the hot tank...
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
Aug 13, 2018 - 07:47pm PT
Cosmic...Okay...I'll try that....rj
Winemaker

Sport climber
Yakima, WA
Aug 13, 2018 - 09:14pm PT
.... stp was like molasses in january and nearly impossible to remove ,,,,,
Yep. Still, it would increase your oil pressure .......
fear

Ice climber
hartford, ct
Aug 14, 2018 - 07:39am PT
FWIW.... seafoam is great stuff for cleaning out small 2 and 4 stroke motors like chainsaws/weedwackers/lawnmowers and the like...

I dont think I'd spray it through any modern motor though with cats...
Happiegrrrl2

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2018 - 04:01pm PT
So yesterday it had the tune up, and the stuttering has completely gone away. It sounds great, and runs/accelerates smoothly.

I'm a happy camper, especially since when I was coming through the Allegheny Mountains I wasn't sure it was going to make it out of Pennsylvania.

JLP

Social climber
The internet
Aug 14, 2018 - 04:19pm PT
What was replaced in this "tune up" ?

Generally a waste of money to replace parts that don't need it and call it a "tune up" - kind of a scam - but sometimes you need it. Cap, rotor, plugs and wires every 60ish k miles or so on that rig, best case, I'd guess, maybe sooner if the last one to do it went budget on parts.

First thing to go is generally the wires - which then start destroying the cap, rotor and coil due to high resistance, if not changed. Old wires can definitely cause misfire - or stutter.
Happiegrrrl2

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2018 - 04:26pm PT
I don't have the bill on hand but it was things like plugs, wires, distributer, and also fuel filter.

I hadn't had a tune up on the thing since buying it and to be honest, I was thinking I should have it done, but then the shuddering(or stuttering, sorry - I am tired, and used the wrong word) and belt noise had me running for help. Bought the van with 65K miles on it, and it has 135K now.



tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Aug 14, 2018 - 04:36pm PT
Awsome the tune up worked! did you say the van only has 135k on it?? that is excellent if true! My Astro turned 200k last week despite JLP declareing that it was a POS..
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Aug 14, 2018 - 05:19pm PT
Sounds like a high chance all was original and never replaced, 70k best case. If the difference turned out to be quite noticeable, I’d say your ignition parts were probably toast, money well spent.

Also - no red flags here so far on this mechanic, another plus.
John M

climber
Aug 14, 2018 - 06:03pm PT
Congrats Terri ! I've had the sense that this was a solid van.
Winemaker

Sport climber
Yakima, WA
Aug 14, 2018 - 06:41pm PT
Good news! 135k miles is nothing. Just do the regular stuff, oil/filter change, check tire pressures, plugs, wires, belts as necessary and you'll get another 100k; just keep on top of it. That's the key; a regular oil/filter change at 5k to 7.5k miles is cheap insurance. Look for leaks, drips, stuff. Wash the engine now and then in a car wash so you can see if stuff is happening. Check the oil every 1000 miles or so until you get a feel for consumption. This is your friend, treat it well and it will just keep going.

On another topic, Dingus, the efficacy of WD-40 as a lubricant..... A bit long, but a good ending.
[Click to View YouTube Video]

Not recommended as a regular service procedure.
Happiegrrrl2

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2018 - 08:20am PT
The van does have an oil leak. I stay on top of it. I check it about once a week when here in NY, and driving only locally, but when I am traveling, I check it every day or two.

I agree that the van has been a good one, which was why it has often peeved me to have people who had never seen the thing make their "comments."
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Aug 15, 2018 - 09:24am PT
Wino, the couple of minutes I wasted watching those retards didn’t improve my opinion of millennials. Like they couldn’t have donated that rig to somebody who needed a seviceable ride? The paint roller tray stunt was pretty funny though. Prolly won’t work well with my AWD?
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Aug 15, 2018 - 09:44am PT
Like they couldn’t have donated that rig to somebody who needed a seviceable ride?

Are you always such a compassionate socialist?

In all fairness to WD-40, the redlining killed the car

I thought the video was funny as hell, brought back memories of the stupid sh1t I did with cars BITD.

Filling tires with water

[Click to View YouTube Video]
John M

climber
Aug 15, 2018 - 10:12am PT
so you are a cloud Power Crux?
Winemaker

Sport climber
Yakima, WA
Aug 15, 2018 - 05:08pm PT
Happie, did you ask the mechanic to see if he could pinpoint the oil leak while he was in there? Could be something as simple as a valve cover gasket or leaky oil pressure fitting. It's nice not to have leaks and removes another task, the constant checking of oil level.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Aug 16, 2018 - 03:37am PT
I had an oil leak in the astro that I could not pin point. mechanic nailed it quickly. it was the oil cooler. was nice to be on our big trip without oil spots on the back window. I look at the back window, licence plate etc every time I exit the vehicle on a long trip. you will see oil spots on the window and licence plate etc if you have any kind of real leak.
Happiegrrrl2

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2018 - 09:02am PT
A few years ago I had one mechanic who said "We'll start with the Valve Cover Gaskets." I should have gone for a second opinion, but I was lazy. The leaking continued.

Then I took it to the mechanic I used up until this latest work was done. The owner worked with me - had the glow-in-the-dark additive put in and a week later come back. He pulled the dog house, and pointed to the areas where the leaking was occurring, and showed me where the main one would be on an engine that his shop had torn down to rebuild.

At the time, I recall him saying he felt the leak was not a normal place for this engine to spring, and that in his opinion it was more a symptom of something else; that being a 1990 it was not "worth" repairing(engine replacement or rebuild), and that even if I did have it fixed, there was no guarantee the oil wouldn't find a different place to escape.

It's a 1990 van - I have no problem checking the oil and topping it off. So log as it doesn't begin to leak fast and furiously, it's manageable. The downside is the leaked oil into the road/parking area surface. However - I have seen bigger patches oil under newer rigs than mine, and so it just is what it is.
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Aug 16, 2018 - 10:14am PT
So your "main" is leaking - the crankshaft seal - and/or mechanic thought it was an unusual place? Always been this way for you? It may be why it was sold at 65k, then. Yeah - fix for that is a new van.

Good news is leaking oil is not really a fatal issue unless it gets too low. IMO - a quart per tank of gas - kind of not out of the ordinary for those big older american V8 motors above 100k miles.

You can buy a metal drip pan for like $15 at Napa, for your regular parking spot. Or some scrap cardboard...
Happiegrrrl2

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2018 - 10:29am PT
The mechanic thought it was an unusual place - inside the engine. I cannot recall exactly what he said though. And it was doing the Blow by, and getting into the air filter.

It was not doing this when I got the van though. I noticed the leaking when I was in Texas one day, parked at a roadside rest area, I think the second year I had it, which would have been late November 2013. Had been cross country the previous year, and would have noticed the drips.

I don't think it has gotten any worse, really, over the years. I would guess I am using a quart every 500-600 miles, but haven't really taken notes.
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Aug 16, 2018 - 12:45pm PT
Sounds like 2 "leaks", then, because if 1 qt per few tanks of gas was blowing through the PCV system into the air cleaner and then onto the ground, that thing wouldn't be running very well at all. So - some is dripping to the ground from who-knows-where, and you're getting some blow-by, and the mechanic didn't tell you to sell or junk the thing - still sounds typical for the american V8 at 100k.
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