Widows Tears climbed 1/17/07

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 96 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
TwistedCrank

climber
Boise, ID
Jan 18, 2007 - 08:53pm PT
yow. great pics of a well-done route.
junior

Trad climber
Modesto. CA
Jan 18, 2007 - 09:18pm PT
Great job guys looks killer.
10b4me

Trad climber
California
Jan 18, 2007 - 10:12pm PT
excellent job
marky

climber
Jan 18, 2007 - 10:19pm PT
outstanding. TR to follow?
Ammon

Big Wall climber
El Cap
Jan 18, 2007 - 10:20pm PT

VERY nice!!!

Awesome job guys and congrats. When was the last time it had an ascent? Dean Potter and Miles? I remember them telling me about it the day after..... with some pretty wide-eyed expressions.

DETails! OOOoaaahhh!!


Trusty Rusty

Social climber
Tahoe area
Jan 18, 2007 - 10:37pm PT
CF-
Attempted WT last July. . . ended up closng the Mountain Room and getin fined for snoring in the Meadows. Glad you pulled it off.
cybele

Ice climber
finally, west of the Mississippi
Jan 18, 2007 - 11:15pm PT
July?

Great job guys!

Anyone know how the party today fared?

Scotty Brown

climber
Jan 19, 2007 - 12:10am PT
Hey y'all,

The ascent was ideal. 13 hours on route, 11 pitches, WI 5, 2000 ft. A fine line indeed.


View of pitches 3 and 4




Doug leading rock on pitch 3




Doug and Dave following pitch 4, Thin! WI 5




Dave Bengston following pitch 4




Doug Leading the "Ouray ice park pitch", Pitch 5, WI 4




Following pitch 6, WI 2




Doug on pitch 7, WI 4




Yup, we did the last three pitches in the dark.

The ice is in great shape. Dry and thin on the lower pitches and wet and fat above. It should stay in shape with the cold nights but the main thing to watch is the day time highs. Valley visitor center temps

Doug and Dave were awesome and we all had a great time! Thanks for viewing.

All photos by Scott Brown
California Alpine Guides

Info and conditions on the route: Scott@Californiaalpineguides.com




Kartch

climber
belgrade, mt
Jan 19, 2007 - 07:41am PT
Is Bad Ass overused yet because if not. . . .

That's some fine climbing.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Jan 19, 2007 - 07:49am PT
Wow - really cool pics!

Nice. Great thread and great send.

Tom
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Jan 19, 2007 - 08:28am PT
way to go gents! wish we had ice and snow here this winter...
you wanna send some our way!
ks
McC

Trad climber
Livermore Ca
Jan 19, 2007 - 08:34am PT
WOW! Congrats to Dave Bengsten, Doug Nidever and Scott Brown!! Looks like some exciting climbing.

Great to see the telephoto pics by Chris Falkenstein and those taken on the route. Thanks for trip report and all of the pictures!


Ammon asked who's climbed it most recently. Anyone know when Dean Potter and Miles climbed it? ... after 2/5/02? Here's a partial list of names of some who've done it and some dates.

1975 FA team: Mark Chapman and Kevin Worral (a fun TR from a Supertopo thread last month: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=294566&msg=294897

Jay Smith and Craig Reason

1/31/02 Peter Mayfield and Mike Shane (same thread - another fun TR: www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=294566&msg=294897 )
2/1/02 Richard Leversee, Dan McDevitt, and a 3rd (I'm blanking on the name)
2/2/02 Wade Suvan and Melanie Lerner - rapped off a couple of pitches before the top
2/5/02 Erik Sandelin and Bill McConachie (Leversee thought this might've been the 10th ascent; trip report on Erik's website http://medlem.spray.se/eriksandelin/ )

Who else has climbed it and when?

Way to go Dave, Doug, and Scott!
Mick K

climber
Northern Sierra
Jan 19, 2007 - 09:17am PT
WOW.

Those photos have goten me so pumped I'm going ice climbing tomorrow.
chappy

Social climber
ventura
Jan 19, 2007 - 09:33am PT
Good job guys! The photos are great. Brings back some memories. Dale Bard and Ron Kauk did the second in Feb. of 78. Ed Barry and I did the third ascent immediately after. It was quite different than when Kev and I did the first. Our original ascent was done in quite warm conditions as the route was disintegrating. A truly inspired effort if I may say so. Conditions were much different in 78. There was a very heavy snowfall. The Valley floor had several feet of snow. The heavy snowfall built up on the routes ledge systems and supplied water to the lower pitches. This made for nice thick ice even down low. The ice was so good. Real thick and solid. I can't imagine it ever being in better condition than it was that year. I just had to go do it again!
The approach was murder though. I remember wallowing through snow that was at times chest deep when you punched through holes in the snow covered talus. Again great job guys on what has to be one of the most beautiful ice routes anywhere.
Chappy
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Jan 19, 2007 - 10:43am PT
Man alive, it looks like the route is hardly there. Three guys on 11 pitches is remarkable, this coming from someone who hates the cold.

Superior effort in my book.

JL
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Jan 19, 2007 - 10:53am PT
Good job, lads! Looks like great climbing in thin conditions.
Dragger

Mountain climber
Bay Area, CA
Jan 19, 2007 - 11:20am PT
Yea Scotty & crew! You guys are awesome!

Carolyn
Watusi

Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
Jan 19, 2007 - 01:13pm PT
GNARLY!!! Very Cool guys!!
G_Gnome

Boulder climber
Sick Midget Land
Jan 19, 2007 - 01:24pm PT
Wow, one of the coolest lines and now it's yours. Congratulations!

I hope everyone on it today and this weekend a safe trip.
Scotty Brown

climber
Jan 19, 2007 - 02:02pm PT
Rising Valley Temps Click the "5 days" link above the graph to see the trend

Be safe and heads up!
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